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jeepwm69

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Posts posted by jeepwm69

  2. Posted

    While searching for a coil, I came across an aftermarket listing that showed fitment to be 2012-2013 Foreman, AND 14-up 420 Ranchers.   I compared it to a 420 coil on my buddy's kid's Rancher, and the connections are the same, so I tried it.  Same results (no spark), except this one doesn't get warm when cranking. 

     

    I still get a voltage drop in the coil wires when I hook up the coil, but show 1 volt more with the wires NOT hooked up to the coil.   (Full battery voltage at Blk/Red wire if I have it off the coil, and 11.XX volts if I hook the coil up).

     

     

     

     

  3. Posted

    Been plugging away on the gaskets on this thing.  Nothing like rock hard 40 year old gaskets to make you want to toss the whole project in the lake.   These early Honda engines have gaskets on EVERYTHING too.  No Hondabond anywhere, all paper gaskets.

     

    I probably have 4-5 hours just in gasket scraping on this engine.  You can see the pile of gasket bits  from this morning up next to the ratchet.

     

    The rings I had to order from Australia should be here today.   Apparently pistons and rings for these 125's have become impossible to find.   I've noticed piston supply for even common engines hasn't really come back post-covid.   Seems the 125's are pretty much unobtanium now, which stinks because I have two of them out back and am worried I won't be able to get rings for them when the time comes.

     

    So, while we're on the subject, any "tricks of the trade" for these ancient, rock hard gaskets? 

     

    null

    image.jpeg

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    19 minutes ago, retro said:

    Yeah it sounds like the coil windings are shorted. The manual does not list resistance specs for the coil so the only way to know for sure is plug another coil in.


    Honda lists the 2012-2013 coils as only fitting those models.  I’ll have to see if the woman wants to drop $60-70 on a new one or $35 on a used one. 
     

    PSN doesn’t show one in stock.  If I determine that was the problem hopefully they’ll refund me for this one.  I’ve had it for several weeks.

  6. Posted

    So I’ve been going from one into the other on this Foreman following the black/red wire, and as soon as I put the ignition fuse in I get a voltage drop.  I started unplugging components wanted a time and measuring the black and red wire at the fuse box to see if the voltage drop had gone away, and when I unplugged the black and red coil wire and measured voltage there with the coil unplugged, it has battery voltage there. 


    I had been pulling the two coil wires partially off of the spade connectors just enough to get my voltmeter leads on to measure for voltage with the coil still connected.

     

    @retro, you mentioned a shorted coil.  Does this sound right?
     

    I’m going to look in the morning in the factory service manual and see if there is a procedure for testing the coil, but it appears I might’ve gotten a rare bad part from PSN.

  7. Posted

    Found my old hand impact driver and lo and behold the JIS bits I bought a while back that wouldn't fit in my Milwaukee impact DO fit in the hand impact driver, so I was able to get the remaining 3 JIS bolts out without having to cut/ drill them.

     

    I didn't find anything that looked bad at all with the transmission, so spent over an hour scraping gaskets and cleaning the crankcase halves, and will try to get the center cases back together with a new gasket in the morning if I can drag myself out of bed.

     

    Still haven't figure out why the thing wouldn't shift.  I haven't found anything bent or broken.  It's almost like something was bound up a bit and freed up when I took everything apart.

    impact driver.jpg

  8. Posted

    If it's slipping, yes.  Could be the Hondamatic, could be the oil pump starving the Hondamatic for oil pressure. 

     

    Until you can do an oil pressure test you shouldn't keep running it.   If your Hondamatic is still ok you might get by replacing the oil pump.  If you keep running it with low oil pressure you will destroy the Hondamatic.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  11. Posted

    Negative.  Different gear ratios.   The only selectable 4wd option for a 300 is a Wide Open 424, which is discontinued.   Part number is DS3000.  

     

    Warn made them originally, then sold the design to Wide Open.  Wide Open sold out of them about the time Covid hit and said they didn't think they would be ordering more from their supplier in China due to cost.

     

    They were about $330 retail when available.  I sold a new one for $800 last week, and sold it quickly.  They are in very high demand, and hard to find since they are discontinued.

    • Like 1

  12. Posted

    10 hours ago, retro said:

     

    It looks like a wiring issue to me, since you had the gray connector unplugged from the ECU and still measured a 1 volt drop at the Bl/R coil terminal.

     

    Check out the wiring diagram below.... trace the coil Bl/R wire and notice it joins the Fuel injector Bl/R wire inside the wiring harness. Then that Bl/R wire continues to J/C 2 junction connector where it is joined with fuel pump Bl/R, power Bl/R, DLC Bl/R, ECM Bl/R etc.

     

    Unplug and check voltage at the Fuel injector, in case the issue is the internal harness junction where the coil BL/R joins the Fuel injector BL/R. I'd put my money on that internal harness crimp joint at this point.... but if the Fuel injector Bl/R measures the same voltage drop as the coil Bl/R, then check voltage on all of the BL/R wires inside the junction connector if you can.

     

    I am working on a major bathroom demo & enlarge/replace project for my daughter so I can't be here very often, but I'll try to check back here at  least once a day. Have fun tracing!

     

    2012-fe-wiring.png

     

    To clarify, when I measured at the coil, that was with the ECU plugged back in.  I think with the ECU unplugged I would get no voltage at the coil, correct?   I'll have to double check that after work. 

     

    And no hurry on the replies Retro.  I know you have RLS to do, as do I.  I'm troubleshooting this one a bit at a time as time permits.

  13. Posted

    OK @retro, tell me if my thought process here is correct.

     

    12.7 V at battery now. I’ve had it on a tender. 
     

    I unplugged the gray connector on the ECU and checked the black/red wire going to ECU. 


    12.7v

     

    then I checked the black red wire at the coil which is supposed to come off of that same black and red wire going into the ECU and got 11.5 V

     

     

    So do I have a bad ECU or do you think of wires burnt somewhere in the middle or ?

     

     

  17. Posted

    Also of note, checking voltage in the fuse box. Main 30amp fuse shows 12.24 V. 10A ignition fuse only shows 11.78 V.

     

    Possible when that coil shorted to the exhaust that it partially burnt up a wire somewhere in the ignition circuit?

     

    Pull the 10a ignition fuse and checked voltage with my volt meter on the hot side. 12.42V. 
     

    When I plug the fuse back in it drops to like 11.28 V on both sides of the fuse. That will be indicative of a drain somewhere correct?

  19. Posted

    On 2/25/2024 at 1:53 PM, jeepwm69 said:

    Fuel pump Clicks on

     

    Battery shows 11.7 V at the coil, 12.41 V directly off the battery

     

    .26 V on the green yellow


    So looking at this again, I had a loose battery connection on the positive battery terminal. Tightened it up. 12.65 V on the battery at rest. 11.02 at the coil. When I crank it drops down to about 9.5v at the coil.

     

    Going to clean up grounds, and check voltage at the on off switch now

  22. Posted


    @Red Good, I see you found the new board.  Any luck on the grinding noise?

     

    A guy named Brian Betram is the Hondamatic whiz.  He's been on the board a few times, but not often.  He does however, respond to emails.  

     

    I'll PM you his email address.  He also sells an oil pressure gauge setup on ebay that he cobbles together.  About half the price of the Honda gauge and fitting.

     

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/144190959908?fits=Make%3AHonda&itmmeta=01HQV19SFJ3J5W3W7YHNC26SAA&hash=item2192737124:g:2x8AAOSwsVFhOA1e&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAA0MFUNUk%2B2N1WuwFDIFH32xzIA9E0vGIApjJypPlx8dXOSfTLk9nfekZ%2Ba250BWChwHvYBXUAW0PX3slVCXacE7ulaNbc36x8CXLDJX7liohFCTInsSwZUsdWeOEFaf5X1do7Pxxylx5dp0PryD7GCb6uJRWQoX1TGMQ%2BPuJhYGYgZW4C0HPhsnziLtFsGIict7oQF3ffRiq0x0K7sQJQ7p6q84ygZB%2FkGefp3o8WON7uEIRIu7cS6gYgADGrT%2Ba929knIPU6fLdU4f8l3sYLVMI%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_qXp-G-Yw

     

    If your oil is full, your oil pump might be bad.  The early Hondamatic oil pumps had known issues.  Honda put in an updated oil pump in mid 2004 as best as I can tell, and the newer models don't have anywhere near the problems the early models did.  The new oil pump will bolt right in place of the older style.

     

    Please let us know what you find out.  There isn't a tremendous amount of info on the Hondamatics out there, and I'm trying to get a good bit of reference here to help people with them.

  24. Posted

    I have two more of them just like it behind my shop.  Paid $100 for one, $50 for the other.   They are both beaters that I expect will need a rebuild, but hopefully i can piece two of them together into one working machine for my little girl when she's ready.

     

    After messing with a couple of Tao Taos I told my friends name brand stuff only, and to buy older stuff, let their kids ride them, and then sell them for the original purchase price a few years later.  Can't beat free usage of kids' toys!

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