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jeepwm69

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Posts posted by jeepwm69

  4. Posted

    5 minutes ago, Tacoma88 said:

    2 of the 3 parts were pen and 2 parts are used off someone on eBay  but the stator was off Amazon and I didn’t realize they it was that particular sooo I guess I’m returning the stator and going to have to get that used somewhere too 

     

    Did you verify that the used OEM parts you got were the right part numbers?

     

    These old 350's are tanks when running, but they can be a PITA to get parts for because most people think they're all the same 86-up because they all pretty much look the same.

  7. Posted

    17 hours ago, Tacoma88 said:

    Hey guys I need some help on my 88 Honda foreman I’ve gotten a new cdi box fan control unit and replaced the stator in it and I’ve still have no spark anyone have any ideas on what the issue is ? 

     

    Were the OEM or aftermarket?   Are you sure they were for the right model?

     

    The 350 Fourtrax/Foreman had three distinctly different electrical systems, and components will not work on the wrong model

     

    86-87 350A Fourtrax

    87 350D Foreman

    88-up 350D Foreman

  8. Posted

    Dual Clutch Transmission

     

    https://www.atvrider.com/story/news/honda-dct-gearbox-explained/

     

    The ES is the same as a footshift, except there is a shift motor that manually turns the shift shaft to change gears, vs a foot lever.


    The DCT is a lot more complicated, has two clutches, one for R, 2,4, and the other for 1,3,5.   The DCT's have more seamless shifting, but again, much more complicated.  They also have an Auto mode, where the computer uses readings from speed sensor, throttle position sesnsor, and who knows what else to shift the machine for you as an automatic transmission.

     

    The DCT does have a shift motor though, and even in auto mode, that shift motor is constantly upshifting and downshifting, so they do wear out.  Glad you got it fixed!

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    • Like 1

  11. Posted

    Correct.  I put 12's on all my machines.   Much easier to find tire options for a 12" wheel, and again, you need 12's to clear disc brakes on the front.

     

    I wouldn't toss the 11's though.  You might find some cheap/free tires for an 11" wheel at some point and need the wheels, and they won't bring anything trying to sell them.

  13. Posted

    27 minutes ago, shadetree said:

    yeah..i wasn't for sure if that center part was the neutral contactor ?, but yeah..you are correct. word from the wise: try not to stay away from a project ?, it does come back on bite ya on the backside !..lol. hopefully i gave you some insight ?. and remember..if you need engine parts for that old girl ?, you know i still have an engine out in catfishes bone yard free for the takin !.

     

    I'll take you up on that next time I'm in LR for sure!  

    • Like 1

  14. Posted

    The center thing is a neutral connector of sorts.  Has a copper contact on either end. It’s the “neutral contact connector”. 
     

    I had to tear this thing all the way down to replace the mainshaft gears on the transmission, so I had cases split.  

  16. Posted

    Eh, had a few leftover parts.   Kinda hard to tell where they go from the schematics too.

     

    @shadetree you got any ideas?

     

    I have the neutral contact assembly om the middle, which is under this schematic, 21 and 22.

    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1985/trx125-a-fourtrax-125/left-crankcase-cover-alternator-sub-transmission-cover

    the "PLATE, STARTING GEAR SETTING", which is under this schematic, hard to tell exactly where it goes though.

    https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1985/trx125-a-fourtrax-125/left-spacer-cover

    and a couple of unknown bits here.

     

    Anyone tell me where these things go? I already have the spacer cover in place, and I think I'm going to have to pull that back off to get that neutral switch in there. I took a couple of pics and can't see where that "plate, starting gear setting" goes in any of the pics I took. The bush was on my bench, and no idea on that one either. The washer/shim looking thing says "out side" on it, and I'm honestly not even sure it was part of this TRX125.

    Gotta love it when you tear down an unfamiliar engine and leave it on the bench for a couple of months.

     

    125 parts.jpg

  20. Posted

    4 hours ago, Dastevoe said:

    Well I put the sensor on and still just "clicks" trying to shift. Pulled the front shift motor & cleaned gearing (looked good not really gummed up), added light weight lithium grease.

    Now I've created another problem (as per usual when I tear stuff apart),when removing shift motor I mistakenly took out the socket head screws as well as the hex heads and when I pulled on the motor disengaged the stator (?) and now have to figure out how to reassemble. How can I keep the brushes in place when sliding stator back in ?? YIKES !!

    BTW..... the shop has a policy of no electrical returns so that's why I put it on anyway. Package wasn't even opened 🤬

    Also as far as clutch adjustment there is no adjusting screw, shift valve body is where adjuster should/would be. Am I missing something ?

     

     

    Steve


    sounds like you have a DCT and not an ES. Auto mode?

     

    The DCTs do not have a clutch adjustment screw.

     

    glad you got it fixed though! @retros little tutorial has helped a lot of folks out

  22. Posted

    Sounds like a low battery, out of adjustment clutch, or shift motor going south.

     

    Don't put that new angle sensor on it yet. 

     

    First thing you need to do is the battery.  Clean connections and top the battery off.

     

    Then try adjusting the clutch.  Nut on the front cover.  Loosen it, then turn the screw in the middle counter-closckwise till you feel resistance, then back to the right 1/4 turn and lock the nut back down.   If the adjustment screw doesn't turn easily, it might be seized.  Don't force it, just leave it for now and come back to it.

     

    Here's Retro's ES thread.   Your shift motor might be going south, or it could just be gunk in the gears under the shift motor.   If you do replace the motor, OEM only, even if you buy used.  No aftermarket crap.

     

     

  23. Posted

    3 minutes ago, rich250rracer said:

     

    A recap and an update. My boss asked me to look at this thing because it was quitting when it got hot. Being in a hurry and needing it for hunting last fall, he asked me to just swap the coil out. I put a brand new OEM coil on it and got the same result.

     
     I tested the stator using a peak voltage adapter in my ohm meter. The voltage adapter may have been bad, but it appeared that I had a bad reading on the stator. I replaced it with a new OEM unit. I got the same result with the new stator. 
     
    A post about the issue on the Foreman Facebook group got me in contact with jeepwm69. He had some electrical issue going on with a machine he was working on and was offering some suggestions. He sent me a known good ECU and voltage regulator. 
     
    I was optimistic that we would track the problem down with these parts to use for testing. 
     
    Keep in mind that this is ALWAYS heat related and the amount of time required for the quad to drop spark seemed directly dependent on ambient temperature. If it was a cold day, if might run for a half hour, or even much longer, before it would shut off. On a warm day, it could be as quickly as five or ten minutes. But once it cools back down, it will restart and run until it gets to a certain temp. And all of this can be accomplished with it just sitting there idling, riding it brings on the issue even quicker.
     
    I brought the quad to the failure point, and once it shut off, I immediately switched to the ECU and regulator that jeepwm69 had sent me. Still no spark. I let it cool over night and restarted it the next day, bringing it to failure temp, then switched back to my original parts. Once again, no spark. 
     
    This machine is equipped with power steering, so that got me studying the wiring diagram. On a standard model, both stator wires from the pickup run directly to the ECU, but on a P/S model, one of the pickup wires runs to the P/S module first, which tells the module that the engine is running and to activate the power steering. Maybe the problem was hiding in that module.
     
    In order to eliminate the power steering from the equation, I removed two wires from the P/S module plug, the incoming (blue/yellow) and the outgoing wire to the ECU (violet/white) and jumped them together. This should have eliminated the P/S module as a possible cause for my issue. In testing, if the two wires are not jumped together, the quad will not run, so I proceeded to run it up to temperature and once again it did drop spark. This should confirm that the issue does not lie in that module. 
     
    It was at this point that I purchased a set of back probes and a true peak voltage meter. My hopes were that my PV adapter that I used in conjunction with my ohm meter was providing bad info. I planned to use the back probes in the ECU and module connectors without unplugging them and monitoring it as it ran and failed. 
     
    My plans to do this were sidetracked as  after putting the P/S module plug make together, I could not get the machine to drop spark. At this point I questioned whether my issue may have just been a bad connection at that plug and by removing and reinstalling the wires, I had corrected the issue. 
     
    After about two weeks of starting and idling the quad, I could not get it to fail. I decided it was time to put everything back together, reinstalling all the plastic and the racks. This was apparently not meant to be, as I was shortly greeted by the same heat related issue. 
     
    My next step was running through the Honda troubleshooting for a no spark issue. It was then that I noticed that I had overlooked the gear position switch. But the way my luck was going, it would only be appropriate for this to be bad, since I would have to disassemble the entire rear of the quad again to remove the rear cover that I had already had off once to replace the stator. The switch is internal, so it could be directly impacted by heat, and it made all the sense in the world.
     
    Since the switch does nothing more than take the circuit to ground when in the closed position, I decided to bypass the switch and ground the neutral position directly to the frame. The quad started, ran until it reached temperature and AGAIN lost spark. There is nothing left in this ignition system for be to replace or bypass, and have no idea where to look next.
     
    For the record, this has a brand new spark plug. I did not replace the plug cap, but I did remove it when I had failure, and checked for spark directly at the coil wire. 
     
    Here is one thing that I have seen, but discounted because I can’t contemplate how it would affect the spark output. There is a TPS code flashing. It hasn’t been constant but it is USUALLY there. 
     
    While I have read that most TPS codes are usually the result of a connection issue, I decided to test it. My ohm meter shows 5k ohms in the closed position, but it does NOT climb when opening the throttle, so this tells me that there actually is a TPS issue. I also checked input voltage as directed by the Honda manual, and ended up with 5.02 volts, right in specifications. 
     
    I plan on replacing the TPS, but I really can’t see how this sensor is causing my spark issue, especially a heat related spark issue. 
     
    Any input would be greatly appreciated.
     
     
     
     
     
     
     

     

    I actually was going to find your post and tag @Melatv and @retro and @AKATV since they seem to love electrical puzzles so much.

     

    Sounds like you need a new TPS either way.  I have an extra carb with a good TPS if you want to try it, but if it measures out of spec you probably need one anyway.   I don't THINK that the TPS has anything to do with spark, as my machine ran fine while running with a TPS error, BUT then again, my TPS wasn't actually bad, it was just an error code.

     

    We did have someone here who had a Hondamatic with a TPS code and it threw the machine into limp mode, so I guess it's possible that it could be causing spark issues.

     

     

  24. Posted

    8 minutes ago, Rolandtd said:

    Yeah my jug was messed up pretty bad and took the crank with it. I figured same cost might as well go with the bigger kit.

     

    That's what I did with the wife's.   I actually had a 420 footshift with a cracked cylinder, so I had the wife's 420 cylinder bored and used it on that footshift, and bought a new 500 cylinder for the wife's.

     

    I wonder what the 520 would do?   Looking at the chart @Melatv posted, the HP difference in the EFI 500 and 420 is negligible, but you're only actually going to a 475.  A 520 would be almost double the CC increase of the 500 cylinder.

    • Like 1

  25. Posted

    15 hours ago, Dastevoe said:

    Battery load test was good + full charge. Have not adjusted clutch. I ordered an O.E.M. angle sensor But will look up how to adjust clutch before installing sensor.

     

    Steve

     

    If it's an angle sensor, should be throwing a code.   Are you getting any blinking lights or gear position on the meter?

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