jeepwm69

2 hours ago, Kendallh said:

I looked and found the service manual pdf files, but for the trx500fa (I believe?) the year options are 01-03, 05-08 and I think 05-12. Is 04 an in between year? 

01-04 were the same, and 05-14.

that 01-03 manual was just the 2003 dated manual.  The 01-03 is what you should use.

It does appear error code 4 is TPS.   Have you downloaded and looked at the factory service manual?  There's a "service manual" button in the toolbar at the top of the page.   The 01-03 Rubicon manual will work for your 04.

I haven't had a lot of experience with the Hondamatic machines yet, but am trying to learn on them.   Most likely you have an electrical issue of some sort, but they can be a PITA to troubleshoot.

Made an offer on that ebay wiring harness and ECU, which not only was rejected, but then the listing was pulled altogether as "no longer available".....

The 2012 and 2013 were oddball years, so finding another wiring harness isn't going to be fun.  I'll keep poking around on this one and see if I can get anywhere.

3 hours ago, Kendallh said:

Doesn't matter if it's in D1, D2 or EPS it's only ever in 4th gear. I've checked the battery voltage and it's 12.4 with the engine off. Once I crank it up voltage is 13.6. No idea how old this battery is but it seems to be fine. I have noticed, however, the starter does slow down a bit fast during cranking so maybe my battery is a bit tired. 

I doubt your battery is the issue if your voltage readings are correct.

Did you try initializing the system yet?

21 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Yeah..... i agree, im surprised no one has started just yet.... i think the standard price for the longest time was what ? Bout 395 ? Or in the mid to upper half of the 300 dollar range... and didnt seem to take too long before the price went in an atmospheric ($900+ ?! Lol!)  direction... hm..... i didnt know you had two... Interesting.... a tad bit of your pops habits rubbing off on ya are they ?  

I actually had three.   I bought one for my oldest kid (that 300 that Shade did the engine on), which is currently mounted on her 300. 

Had one for the big 300 I planned on building until my 29.5 Outlaws got stolen.   I traded for those tires, and at that time SamUK was going to build me a GR, so I wouldn't have a lot in it, but tires got stolen, and SamUK disappeared, so I don't see myself ever spending $1K on tires, and another $500+ for a GR to have a big slow moving toy, so I doubt that machine ever happens. 

And then I have the little one who is almost 5.  She'll get a 300 when she's older, so the last one is for her

So i had plans for all 3.   Big bike for me is unlikely to happen, other two are for kid's machines.

MSRP on them was $369.   I had two new ones and one used one that I put new bearings and seals in.   Sold one new one, other new one is on the eldest's 300, and the used one will go in the little bit's bike.

Welcome aboard.  Does it drive in auto mode?

You need a good strong battery on these for them to work right.  If you have a good battery on the machine, try initializing the system. 

Machine in neutral

Hold up and down shift buttons in and turn key to on position

Hit up, down, up on the shift buttons, then open and close the throttle within 5 seconds.

That should re-initialize all the computer crap.

See if that changes anything.

I don't think the valves really have anything to do with the mechanical aspect of the shifting.  They divert oil pressure to the dual clutches.   Is that correct @toodeep?

(otherwise I'd tell you to remove the valve and see if it will shift with the valve not in place, but I don't want you to do unnecessary work and i think toodeep has more experience with these than I do)

18 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Yer right..... i just dont need one that bad.... he'll get that asking price.. no doubt at all.. and i expect prices will keep going up for those units over time....i recon ill keep looking.... i still think they might come back out on the market... heck if wide open were to see some of the post in here about those units... looks like they would see bringing them back with be a plus for them.. and being they were already making them it wouldnt be like something new...surely they still have to have some of the equitment ..... to manufacture them ? Bring them back and advertise.... i bet they would take off quick... add a plus .... carve some off the original price.... i know if they did that im be in line right now.. and im sure i would be alone...

I figure with what they're bringing now that someone will start making them again eventually.   Money got tight last month and I think my ideas of building a big 300 one day will probably never happen so I listed mine and quickly sold it.  Got me through the month and I still have a used one in the drawer for the 300 I'll do for the little one when she's older.

10 hours ago, shadetree said:

mines hydro as well, thats the part i had to fix !..and it was rough pulling it part by myself..but i did it.  and yes..i am by myself as well when busting tire beads down. i do not use a board, i simply drive straight at the tire, then get my truck tire next to the rim center, then turn my truck tire around the center rim bead, pops the bead every time. maybe you need a chevy tire ?..lol.

Honda made a hydrostatic 4wheeler.  You should get one!

16 minutes ago, toodeep said:

Does it have a long pause at the end with a -- and then the 4 flashes again? Have you shifted it manually to make sure it's in neutral and not stuck between 2 gears?

Video above worked for me.   Looks like error code 4, which isn't in the FSM.  You have any ideas?

18 minutes ago, BIG ERT said:

Thanks for the info. That’s why I’m so confused because it is 4 short flashes and no my fan is not on. 

Have a smartphone?  Can you take a video of the flashing and post it up?

Welcome aboard. 

If you go to the "service manuals" at the top of the page, click the links to download the service manual.  

Section 4-8 and 4-9 have the error codes.  There is no code 4, but there is a code 44.

Is your cooling fan on as well?  

I had a new 2nd/3rd gen I sold a couple of weeks ago for $800.  Buyer was willing to pay $900, but I'd had it listed at $800 so I honored the ad (he offered extra for me to ship it).

Sold it pretty quickly.  I think the guy that mods those to fit a 1st gen charges a couple of hundred bucks minimum to do it, so this really isn't a bad deal if you really want one.

That's pretty cool.  Reminds me of the truck in The Road Warrior with that front bumper.

On 3/15/2024 at 8:22 PM, Melatv said:

Hi -- the wires with just the insulation covering just chew off -- use Permatex Liquid Electrical Tape --

 I don't like using those heat shrink tubes with solder in them -- because the wires have to be perfectly clean -- solder the connections tape them good -or use crimped connectors and liquid tape the ends.

So, this might be a stupid question, but I’m starting to think I have burned/melted wires in the harness somewhere.  Is that what you electrical experts are leaning towards?

I’m eyeing this

https://www.ebay.com/itm/256307769169

Since the CKP test looked ok, safe to say the problem should be in the harness/ECU?

6 hours ago, Jman said:

Thank you I have a 2007 Foreman Rincon 500 s it’s a gps unit and it was rolled and the glass part of the actual instrument the inside part got smashed is it possible to get a new pc. 

Pretty sure that one is toast.  I’ll let @AKATV chime in though.

The good thing is, new Rincon meters are still available from Honda.

I wasn’t much help, but thank you for posting the fix!  Should help someone out in the future 

2 hours ago, shadetree said:

i'd like to see the package..i dont trust anything on ebay... read further down in ad..it clearly says reproduction !..lol.

I bought some 300 gaskets from them. They are not OEM but were good gaskets.

I still need to call you back. Had a day from ! at work yesterday and I’ve been driving all day today headed to the in-laws for spring break.

2 hours ago, shadetree said:

this is after market gasket,,,made in china...lol.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/174113245915?itmmeta=01HS286R1NAMGRANSFCV826BSS&hash=item2889f54adb:g:1fEAAOSwxcJd5Gcg&itmprp=enc%3AAQAIAAAAwNEeWJP8PnT1rzAID%2BSufpwlT%2BxdQjYkIi1PEO6%2F5o1oqNtWdcGlPslenQgSQc1zlW%2FfroheW2K1PRUFoh9CP3ZpCqXABlMVrsDxlVXb9H9RuL72suQql0IvoZU%2F9ieZpELtvNHiJd0xA%2F3iSrcVOOsZqhxfblZ43D1CoXIX3UHkqTgaYCeRoezeQq40RTJV0DsDt5qp1lE5Vpj9LAurkwXIBeip7JE7ANv7zTa45GgJQCzIGc%2BJ2Aku%2FzYVnxvHeA%3D%3D|tkp%3ABk9SR_qAm8jIYw

lets get your shifting fixed and then we can focus on the neutral switch

22 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

No voltage at the coil with that gray plug disconnected.

 

Plugged it back in and coil reads 10.95 V

 

battery reads 12.33v

 

So are y’all thinking this is my problem?

21 hours ago, Melatv said:

I see chewed wires there and other things that would cause the problem -- @retro good to find time to help out.

So, zooming in on this pic on my computer at work, much easier to see.   You see the yellow/blue wire that I spliced using one of those heat shrink tubes with solder in the center.  That was a wire that was completely gnawed in two by a rat, which is why the wheeler was originally brought to me.

I fixed three such wires, wheeler ran, and I returned it to the woman.  

A couple of weeks later she called me back, wheeler was dead again.  I discovered blown ignition fuse, and when I replaced the fuse, the coil smoked and hissed, and I realized the coil wire had melted to and was shorted on the exhaust.  

I have not found any more wires gnawed in two, and the woman moved the wheeler from a barn to her carport when I returned it to her the first time.

So should I snip. strip, and reconnect the wires that were gnawed but not broken to make sure they have a good connection?   Replace the whole harness?  

14 hours ago, MeGoose said:

 

Going through youtube videos trying to find similar problems. 

 

Is this close to what you're taking about?

 

 

Yep, that's exactly the problem I found on the 500 I linked to above.  I'd check that.  Not a terrible job to look under the front cover since you don't have to pull the engine.

Misery loves company......

I see what you’re talking about now. Green wire gnawed on.  Am I better off snipping those and stripping them back and getting a better connection?

i’m fairly certain that the rat damage was done before the coil wire melted 

20 minutes ago, Melatv said:

I see chewed wires there and other things that would cause the problem -- @retro good to find time to help out.

That was the initial problem was rat chewed wires. I used some of those heat shrink connections with solder in the middle to put the wires back together. Machine ran until the aftermarket coil wire melted on the exhaust.