jeepwm69

@Wheeler

Fuse spot shows no corrosion etc.

I’ve tried a different coil and a different coil with no change. 
 

From the test on the pick up coil I think that’s good.

Not sure where else to look other than the ECU, but hate to buy a $210 part if that’s not it

4 hours ago, Melatv said:

Check this -- unplug the ign. switch -- you said there were 2 red wires -- do this use the black wire on the harness side of the ign. switch and jumper it to one of the red wires on harness -- then check for 12 volts on the ign. coil  -- if no 12 volts jumper the black to other red and check coil again.

11.15 at coil with wires jumped

9 hours ago, Melatv said:

@jeepwm69 remove the jumper and measure the voltage on the ign. coil -- if it's low you may have a problem with the ign. fuse holder 

10.94v at coil

12.28 at battery

Heading home from work now. Will report back shortly

Correct, sounds like it’s time for a new oil pump.

The 05–14 updated oil pump is a much better design and bolts right in.  You will see that part supersedes the original oil pump part number from 01–04

10-4.  Will measure that again after work.

The fuse box terminals are clean with no corrosion of any kind, and no sign of melting.  That said, it obviously fried something when that spark plug wire melted to the exhaust.   When I picked the thing up, the ignition fuse was blown.   The only spare was a 30A, so I stuck that in place, turned the key on, and smoke started pouring out of the coil (which was still grounded to the exhaust at that point).  I turned the key off, and the 30A fuse did not blow during that series of events.

Since then, no spark with good ignition fuse.   Obviously something is fried, but finding WHAT is proving problematic.

2 minutes ago, Melatv said:

@jeepwm69 remove the jumper and measure the voltage on the ign. coil -- if it's low you may have a problem with the ign. fuse holder 

So to clarify, plug grey plug back into ECU, remove jumper, and measure voltage on blk/red coil wire?  

@Melatv with the jumper wire in place from battery positive to black\red coil wire, I got 12.71 V on the unplugged grey ECU plug.  Measuring voltage directly at the battery I got 12.74 V.

Obviously had been on a battery tender just prior to me taking those readings

I wouldn’t say “cut your losses and sell”, but yes, it’s not uncommon on these IRS machines with the rear brake on the driveshaft.  I have a thread around here somewhere where I went through the same concern with the wife’s IRS 420.  It seems to be an irritating “normal” for Rincons and other IRS Hondas.

Most of my machines don’t have functional rear brakes, because the rear drum brakes on these machines don’t hold up to the mud and water I ride in.  The front brakes have more than enough stopping power.  On the machines I have that still have working rear brakes, I use them for a parking brake. 

38 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Take a wire and place it in along side the Bl/R of the ign coil to the positive of battery -- check for 12 volts on the unplugged gray connector Bl/R wire 

So do your jumper wire trick, but leave grey ECU plug off and measure backfed voltage at the plug?

🤦‍♂️
 

no idea how to add an ATC page.  Maybe Retro can do it.

I have a 185S in the yard that’s been sitting awhile.  I might get to it one of these days

27 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Check the Ign fuse 

It’s good.  If I pull it I get full battery voltage on one lug.  When I put it back i get about a one volt drop when I measure voltage at the fuse

No voltage at all at the coil with the gray plug disconnected on the ECU.

You'd be fine.  I have 26" MudBugs on my kid's stock 350 Rancher AND my other kid's stock 300.  I wouldn't want to go bigger on either machine, but since you're only looking at 25's you'd be perfectly ok.

42 minutes ago, JDATV said:

Got 98 Foreman 450 ES.  Boys in the shop have narrowed it down to this issue.  They have no idea how to fix it.  If I get my rig back, I can send the assembly to you and that’s what you do?  Sign me up please.  Been without my machine for 3 months.

When he did my meter it took less than a week, including shipping both ways to Alaska!

On 2/19/2024 at 12:59 PM, AKATV said:

MAR1949 sent a picture to me

Meter stays in neutral with "N" being displayed for all gears

Having him check gear position switch as per manual

He also informed me he has a bypass kit on his  Rancher 350 (ES)

I have not run a bypass kit- so wanted to ask members what/how gears are displayed on meter when using one?

I know that half the gears are hard wire generated from the gear position switch and the other half

are determined by angle sensor/ECU which are unlplugged when using bypass kit

But either way, it should not be showing neutral for every gear

Other possibility is that the shift drum has cracked off on the end or bad gear position switch which he said he just replaced

so maybe the gear position switch pin was not aligned with the "N" on switch during  but either way it would not just stay in Neutral

-AKATV

 

I missed this question.   Did you ever get an answer to this part?

I know my ES converted to footshift does show the proper gear but always throws an error code when you shift.  

The N displayed for all gears could be a broken shift drum, which was common in 2000-2001 350's, and if the rear of the shift drum broke off, or alternatively, someone might have have hardwired it to show N all the time so it would start.

52 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Sweet!.....old school flat top sleeper......  eh he could gross over a hundred thousand.. and with stacks that diameter shell thump the ground like distant rolling thunder...low tone for a long hood .... whats in the engine room ? 425B cat ?  Ive drove this one a few times, belongs to a good friend of mine... i never did like those high top sleepers (like This one posted has).. nor wind fairing or wind dams.... that trucks grossed well over 100,000 lbs..... and the b model cat can shag ! with it...

No idea.   He's a good kid though.  He and his dad are on a trip now to haul loads of hay to the Texas panhandle where the fires have hurt so many farmers.

Well Highlifter closed their forum down and that thread disappeared, so you wouldn't have found anything.

Let us know if it works ok once you get the rear stuff swapped over.

I think you're on the right track.  Back when the highlifter forum was still up there was a guy who tried swapping 420 to 500 engines and there was a difference in the pickup coil, flywheel etc.   If you're trying to use the 520 wiring harness I would sap the flywheel, CKP etc all off of the 520 engine and put it on the 420 case.

Welcome aboard!

This belongs to a kid who graduated last year with my middle kid.  His family farms, row crops and cattle.  The dad put both his boys to work when they were 5-6 years old, and the one who graduated with my kid just wants to be a truck driver.  Not just any truck driver either, a vintage 70's truck driver.  He has that long nose Pete, complete with the chrome "reclining babe" emblems in appropriate places, wears clothes straight out of the late 70's, and has a 100 running lights on the thing. 

Weighs about 90 pounds soaking wet too.

Paging @AKATV.  He's the meter expert.

1 hour ago, retro said:

So with the coil plugged in and the Gray ECM connector unplugged there is still a voltage drop measured at the coil Bl/R terminal?

Well let me unplug that grey connector after work and see what I get.   You know I'm a little scatterbrained LOL

Those are neat little machines.  Walmart clearanced some of the new ones 4-5 years ago and I almost bought one.

On 3/7/2024 at 11:58 AM, Melatv said:

Hi @jeepwm69 unplug the ign. switch and put a jumper between the Red & Black wire on the harness side -- check voltage on ign. coil.

Hey @Melatv!

There are two red wires, a black wire, and a pink wire. Wasn’t sure which to jump so I just hooked up two different extra ignition switches I had in the shop and neither made a difference.

I also unplugged the fuel injection relay and it also made no difference in voltage to the coil with key on.