jeepwm69

Welcome aboard. @AKATV

Yep, if throwing no blinking codes I'd check the spines on front driveshaft and coupler. I've had to replace a few.

they are. Certainly wouldn’t be easy to get into one without destroying it, but necessity is the mother…..

New wiring harness installed this morning. Got everything plugged in, no change. Same exact voltage drop at the ignition fuse once I put the fuse in, but reads full battery voltage on the battery side of that fuse’s spot with the fuse removed. The only thing I can think now is the ECU is bad. I hate that this poor woman is going to be out $400+ for a coil, harness, and ECU, but at least now she’ll have a non-rat chewed ECU. @AKATV @Melatv @retro have any of you opened up one of these newer ECU’s? I’m just curious if we get 20 years down the road if these things will all end up as junk due to a lack of availability, especially on oddball models like the 12-13 Foreman

Yeah the part number is the footguard

I'd look at Rocky Mountain and Motosport. They tend to be the cheapest, and both have free shipping over $75. I'd pay $75-80 for a new one before I'd pay $50 for a used one. That plastic gets brittle with age and exposure to sunlight, and you pay $50 for a used one it might fall apart the first time it hits something.

Here in the states, a lot of people move the rear shocks on a 400 to the front, and then put 450 shocks on the rear to lift the 400 to the height of a stock 450. The 450 was just a slightly upgraded 400. I actually used 400 fenders on my buddy's 04 450 because he liked tan, and while tan was never offered as a 450 color, the 400 and 450 fenders are the same, and they DID make the 400 in tan.

Rear swingarm is the same from 400-450. The front part just relocates the bottom of the front shock inward. I have a 450 Foreman Perfex on my 500. The only difference I could see was the 450 front brackets only had one option to move the bottom of the front shock, where my 500 Perfex lift had two options. Notice the extra hole on the 500 kit here https://www.ebay.com/itm/363828315958?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D14eca4ea84ea45a990b3e147ec347a54%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D363828315958%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2%26brand%3DHonda&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Acee3264718e0a8d74e8280dbfffffbbc|pageci%3A9c99db07-f843-11ee-8279-aa855c2f64f3|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage I am fairly certain that the 400 kit would fit a 450 with no modifications. How much is shipping were you to order that to Scotland? My last name is McClain. According to the family history I have been told, the family is originally from the Lochbuie side of the Maclaine clan.

Yes, I have the long travel kit on all of mine. There are still new old stock units floating around, but they are getting harder to find. https://www.ebay.com/itm/374059948868?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D777008%26algo%3DPERSONAL.TOPIC%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20230811123856%26meid%3D5ae99d346fdc4ab09851c89841f5abbd%26pid%3D101770%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26itm%3D374059948868%26pmt%3D0%26noa%3D1%26pg%3D4375194%26algv%3DRecentlyViewedItemsV2&_trksid=p4375194.c101770.m146925&_trkparms=parentrq%3Acec0aadb18e0a770e99a0175fffeb1e6|pageci%3A59a59aeb-f83e-11ee-b1a3-0af4e8a9f325|iid%3A1|vlpname%3Avlp_homepage

I'm a big fan of the Perfex. They reposition the bottom of the rear shocks to be more straight up and down and it gives a much better ride. Not IRS smooth by any means, but much less harsh that the factory ride. I have Perfex lifts on all of my Foremans.

Welcome aboard! Those late 450's were awesome bikes. The selectable 4wd is nice, and adding disc brakes is easy.

https://www.motosport.com/oem-parts/part-number/80121-hn0-a00za https://www.ebay.com/p/1311839774

I miss the days of cheap parts from PSN. They still sell good stuff, but they aren't the bargain that they used to be. A few years back I got a 350D rear diff from them for $100. Inside looked new, but the ring gear bearings were seized from lack of use. I took it apart, soaked those bearings in oil and then rotated them back and forth and that diff was as good as new.

I looked and the last two he did for me he charged $135 each for labor and return shipping. So a rod at $120, plus $135 labor, is $255 including return shipping for a rebuilt "new" crank with zero wear on it. Cheapest 450 crank on ebay that isn't listed as "for parts or not working" is $250 plus tax (so $275 for me), and then you have a used crank with wear for the same price. New is no longer available for the 450's, so rebuild is the only option to get a "new" crank Those 05-11 cranks are $700+ now for a new one. You can get a Hot Rods crank (Taiwan) new but they're $500, so it saves a ton of money on that model getting Vince to do it vs buying another crank. But yeah, you figure out how to rebuild cranks and you know you have a customer LOL

Call vince at Mr crankshaft. He can rebuild your crank much cheaper than a new crank, and buying a used one chances are you'll get another worn out crank. Rod will run you $120ish (not sure if his current price list is accurate) and about another $100-125 for labor and return shipping. His turnaround is usually under a week, and he does great work. http://www.mrcrankshaft.com/ The top end of the connecting rod where the wrist pin goes is usually what wears out, so he installs a new connecting rod (Vesrah, made in Japan, excellent quality) and trues the crank. He will also remove that rear crank bearing that always comes out when you remove the crank, and if it's good you can reuse it, and if not, you can order a new bearing. Very difficult to press a crank in with the bearing on the crank. You press the bearing into the rear case, then the crank into the bearing. Here's a thread I did on a 500 engine with some pics. There are minor differences in the 450 and 500, but for the most part they are laid out the same, so won't be bad for reference. I use a 3 jaw puller on the centrifugal clutch. If it slips off the clutch bell I use several long hose clamps linked together to hold the puller arms against the clutch bell. You will need a flywheel puller, and the $10ish motion pro on ebay work fine for that. Like Shade said, DID timing chain. Don't buy a cheap one or you'll be tearing the engine back down. You can remove the top end and inspect the cylinder, piston, and end of the connecting rod without pulling the whole engine. My guess is they slapped a new chinese top end on a worn out connecting rod and that worn rod caused rapid wear on the new cylinder. Since you have flakes in your oil, the safe long term fix is to pull engine, tear it all the way down and clean it up, and then reassemble with whatever new parts are needed. Then you know what you have and know it's ok.

@AKATV

Man you gotta work the system. You should have ordered a seal or a couple of bolts or a wheel center cap to get you the free shipping!

Things around here are "so flat you can watch your dog run away for 2 days" but at least we have trees!

Temp here probably dropped 10-15 degrees. I was quite surprised at just how dark it got when the sun was totally blocked. And the tiniest sliver of sun made a HUGE amount of light considering......It was a cool experience.

Welcome aboard. If you’re going into the engine Honda updated the oil pump sometime in 2004. The early Hondamatics got a bad rep due to the early oil pumps. The later style oil pump and Hondamatics had a much better track record.

Pretty cool thing to see.

The only reduction is a 7%, which is a 450 foreman final gear under the rear cover. It’s a 42 tooth vs the stock Rubicon 40. Not worth the effort unless you’re already in there doing other work. As for tires, even with low I wouldn’t go that big. I’ve seen Rubicons unable to turn some loaded up 26” outlaws in really thick mud. Couldn’t spin them enough to clean them out so they ended up being giant heavy cakes of clay. i have light 27’s (Mudbugs) on one with the 7% reduction installed, and wouldn’t want to go any bigger/heavier.

We’re going to drive about 45 min nw to get into totality. It’s going from about an hour west of me to an hour north of me, so we’re going to try to catch it in the middle of nowhere, where hopefully we can avoid the crowds.

I was outside in shorts and a T-shirt and flip-flops today sweating breaking down tires

Yikes! That one is pretty bad, but the circuit board doesn't appear to have obvious water damage. Does it backlight in the dark if you turn on the headlights? @AKATV will be along shortly.