Bossdaddy

Man you guys are impressive, y'all eat this problem right up. I just knew it was going to be another one of my major screwups. I'll go on and fix it after hunting season. Thanks guys as usual you did great.

I've got a 2004 Foreman ES 450 and when I turn the engine off something keeps spinning for 2-3 seconds after engine stops. It sounds like it's toward the front of the engine but not really sure. It like something is engaged and when the engine stops it continues the turn. Could it be the starter? I haven't had time to mess with it very much so thought y'all could get me started in the right direction. Help me again.

Maybe retro or Melatv will see this and get involved, they are super good. I wish I could help but I would probably make it worst. Good Luck.

JEaston, I hope the thread helps, the two guys that walked me thru this are great guys and really good on the electric stuff and probably other things too. Good luck!!

shadetree, thanks for the input. There has never been a problem at all about it starting, it starts and idled great and still does. The whole problem was it wouldn't take the gas when called on, now it does it's just got to be warmed up good to perform as it should. I verified the rebuild kit as being correct.

Changed choke valve, it made no difference in the running. Removed carb again and went back into it , recleaning it and just redoing what I did when rebuilding it. Installed carb and it runs as it should, idles good accepts throttle when called on, I don't know what it was but it's ok for now. I have never seen a ATV as cold natured as this one. It will not take very much throttle until it is completely warmed up even while playing with the choke. Now unlike before when completely warned up it has plenty of power and really run good. Thanks guys for the help, I'm sure I'll be calling on you again.

The thing that bothers me and has got me scratching my head is this thing hasn’t got a miss, tick, nothing sounds or acts up at all till about 1/3 throttle then it’s like it starving for fuel, let up on throttle a little and it back to smooth as silk. I changed diaphragm, no change. I think it’s the carb. I guess I’ll go back thru the rebuild again.

I put a new spark plug in it, the one I took out was a little black but not in bad shape, I cleaned the carb with small brushes, carb cleaner and compressed air.

Have not checked valves or timing.

This carb was installed in a Honda shop. The snorkel is clean inside and out, this whole machine is clean, it don't look like it has ever been put in a bad place, the air filter looks new. I have tried this thing with snorkel on and off, with breather on and off, same results. It sounds like it is starving for fuel. Give me more ideas, I will go into the diaphragm tomorrow. One more thing will a carb from a 450 work on this 350?

The same 2002 Rancher that had the lug nut problem now has another problem. I think it's the carburator, the guy finally got to bring it over for the lug nuts and wanted me to see why it wouldn't take the full throttle. It runs great but when the engine get hot it will not take the the gas past about 1/3 wide open, it just bogs down, loses power. Upon inspection it has what looked to be a new OEM carb on it. I questioned him about the carbs age and he said 3-4 years old but the Rancher was bought for his wife which almost never rode it it just sets in the basement. I told him I would take it off and clean it and look it over. I ordered a rebuild kit just in case. When I opened it up it looked new, I went on and used the rebuild kit, using only the jets and things like that didn't go into the vacuum part of it and put it back on the machine. I got the same results once it got hot. You guys have got me going before so let me hear what I did wrong or what I need to try.

Thanks shadetree, always good to know little tricks to use later.

Sorry, I forgot to go on and post the pictures of the tool.

jeep, same here, the guys were right, it is 12mm. A 12mm hex bolt fits it perfectly, good and snug. I looking to buy one a tool now, I think they will come out pretty easy.

Hi Melatv, good to hear from you, Thanks for info. Wilson, I don't think they are messed up to bad but hadn't checked them out real close.

I don't have a allen wrench that big but maybe I can buy one if I can come up with the size. I don't think I have enough room for vice grips but I will try that for sure. Welding a nut on them will work just hoping for something quicker and easier. There is 3 of these nuts on each wheel, the forth lug was probably a special nut that was probably changed out years ago. Either way these nuts are gone for sure. Thanks guys and anybody else that has any ideas.

A friend has got a Rancher that he needs to get the wheels off of but he has no lug wrench, the lugs look like they may take a large allen wrench, I've never seen lugs like this and know nothing about them. They may be old type Vision wheels. Has anybody got any ideas on what to use to get them off? He has had it for about 2 years and got no lug wrench with it when he bought it.

Thanks, I'll give it a try.

Off the subject a little but what do you guys use the remove small scratches in the plastic and bring the color back. The green color is still pretty good just dull but not faded bad, it has small scratches all over it from just being used in the woods. Hunting season is not far off and I would like to get it slicked up good before another season in the woods.

First of all I want to again thank all you guys that helped me on this ordeal, I wouldn't have even tried it without you encouraging me to go on and do it. I learned a lot for sure. I got it all put back together and it shifts gears great.

Fishfiles, the last bolt was a OEM bolt bought from Partzilla, the new one is a grade 10.9 bolt bought at Lowes. I used blue thread locker and torqued it to 107 inch pounds. It torqued no problem, my problem was the old thread lock that I didn't get out prior to installing the new bolt.

Folks, God has blessed me again, the broken bolt is out!!! Jeep, when the bolt broke it left a little tit sticking out on one side, just enough for needle nose and even when I drilled it didn't bother the tit. I got the welder ready and almost started and something said to go on and try the torch and that's what I did. The end of the drum is a lot thinner than I thought it would be. When I put the torch to it, it was set real low, not hot at all, 10 seconds max and it was hot. I took the needle nose to it and it turned out no problem. One thing for sure the bolt was never bottomed out, it was torqueing on the buildup on the threads only about 1/2 inch if bolt came out. I chased the threads and can run the new bolt all the way flush with your fingers. This is a ! of a way to learn not to do things. Now can I remember how to put the thing back together. Thanks to all that had a input, y'all had a lot of things going on in this old head.

The hole is not deep enough for a ease out to bite, maybe grind the ease out down, I don't know. I put blue thread lock on it not red.

Thanks Fishfiles, Like I said if I can get it out things will be different. I think I'm going to try and put the heat to the drum, I can barely get a hold of the bolt with needle nose plyers and if that don't work I am reluctant to weld on it but what have I got to lose. The drum is steel so it can go south real quick.

The bolt went in over half way with my fingers then started to get snug, probably the old thread locker, in hind sight I should have chased the threads but it never crossed my mind. You can go back to page one of this thread and see the pictures/drawings retro sent me and the torque vales are on the last page showing the bolt. This bolt is nothing special they are all over this bike. If I can get it out it will be done differently the next time.