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sled_22

Jonsered 2165 complete rebuild (372xp)

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Per a request I’ve started a build thread. Jonsered 2165. Scope of the project is a complete rebuild/ restoration. I started tearing it apart today. It was bought off another forum. No know history. 
the jonsered 2165 is a 65 cc pro grade saw. There’s also a 2171 which is the same as a husqvarna 365/372. Just in red. I’ve purchased a hyway 372 top end kit and various other parts I knew I needed. 
first step was complete disassembly. When I got down to just the crankcase, I heated the case and tapped the crank with a rubber mallet. 
first thing I found was the original bearings were a little crunchy. Good thing I had planned on a complete tear down. More to come once cleaning is complete. 

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Wow , it has a big muffler !!   

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23 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

Wow , it has a big muffler !!   

Kinda looks like it has maybe been opened up and modified..

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44 minutes ago, bcsman said:

Kinda looks like it has maybe been opened up and modified..

Straight stock muffler.  They have a weird bumper in the front. I ordered a replacement. 
without a screen as this will be a fun play saw for me. https://www.sawagain.com/husqvarna-372-xp-362-365-371-385-390-xp-redmax-g7100-jonsered-2063-2065-2071-2163-2165-2171-muffler-with-bracket-and-gasket-503765301/

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That is a weird looking stock muffler for sure

 

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Posted (edited)
54 minutes ago, bcsman said:
6 minutes ago, bcsman said:

That is a weird looking stock muffler for sure

 

 

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Edited by sled_22
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Love me some build threads!

 

Where are you sourcing parts?

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9 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Love me some build threads!

 

Where are you sourcing parts?

All over the place. Some came from arboristsite members, hyway cylinder & muffler from ebay, few other seal/gasket kits from ebay. amazon for a husky operator presence lever.

Funny you asked too. I TRIED to locally source the bearings. I want SKFs or other decent bearing manufactures. Not just oriely's brand bearings. I went to three parts stores in town and asked for SKF and or bearing specs. I don't want less than 23000 RPM speed rating and wanted to compared load ratings. All three stores, (autovalue/napa, carquest/autozone, oriely's) could not tell me a single specification on the bearing (other than metric to standard conversion dimensions) and only 1 could order the SKFs. To order the SKFs it was going to cost $17 a piece. I said forget it and went on ebay, bought italian made SKFs for $7 a piece free 4 day shipping. Hard to expect me to pay over double the price local with a 10 day wait.

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Need an opinion. How does this paint match? It’s still wet in the picture and I imagine it’ll darken a bit with less gloss. It’s engine paint. 

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Seems to match pretty well so far....

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Close enough for me!  You're going to use it, right?

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2 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Close enough for me!  You're going to use it, right?

Yeah. I don't believe i could get a better match from the jonsered factory (in 2021).

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seeing as how it took me a while to see where the new paint was, I think you're good.  

 

Disclaimer:  I have been accused of being slow.😉

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It dried more red than I thought it would. Oh well. It’ll be fine I think. 
parts are all laid out ready to be washed 

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I wonder how much the slight change in color will affect how well it cuts.....prolly not much huh??

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Case is cleaned up. Taped off and lightly sanded with 400 grit. Ill give her a new outfit tomorrow. 

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Well. Now I need some bearing to show up. Paint looks pretty good. Now all my plastic parts look like crap. All laid out ready for the rest of my parts to show. 
guess I’ll go split wood in the mean time. 

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Made a little progress last night. Got the top end together along with the bottom end. Waiting for caber rings to complete the marriage. 
i froze the crank shaft in the deep freeze and heated the bearings. Those suckers slide right on. Then I froze the crank again with the bearings installed then heated the one case half. Slid right in. Then heated the other case and tried to slide that in. It didn’t go as smooth. Ended up having to freeze the half case with the crank in it again for about an hour then reheated the other empty case. Then it slid right together. 
had to pry the crank a little to center it in the case too. 
when I pried I dinged the case a little so I had to smooth that out in the case. Then got paranoid I got metal in the bottom end so it got a bath. Which then resulted in chipped paint so I’ve had to repaint some of the case as well. It was one of those two steps forward one step back kind of nights. 
but case is together and back to waiting for parts. 

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Nice !! ---   Isn't it a  great feeling to make something like new from something run done and broken  !!!!  You ought to be feeling alright about it .... 

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Yes fish, it does feel good to go conepletely through something but the gratification will come when it runs. 
here’s the case as it is now. EB5666AC-434D-43CA-AE83-9DE200EB4FBF.jpeg

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Looking good sled !! 

 

Did you ever try Self-Itching Primer by Rustoleum , I see on your cover there are scratches and gouges , like uneven paint ---- the self-itching will level it's self out and fill a lot of that up , amazing stuff  and it holds the paint to it very well , I love the stuff ----  works good on aluminum and steel ----  on steel it protects from rust much better than regular primer , if I prime a piece of metal , with no paint on it , it will last a very long time before showing any signs of rust , regular primer will rust pretty quick 

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11 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Looking good sled !! 

 

Did you ever try Self-Itching Primer by Rustoleum , I see on your cover there are scratches and gouges , like uneven paint ---- the self-itching will level it's self out and fill a lot of that up , amazing stuff  and it holds the paint to it very well , I love the stuff ----  works good on aluminum and steel ----  on steel it protects from rust much better than regular primer , if I prime a piece of metal , with no paint on it , it will last a very long time before showing any signs of rust , regular primer will rust pretty quick 

 You are correct, there was uneven paint which i just sanded out flat and called it good. I didn't want to sand the entire thing flat only to have the original dings and scratches show through... But this Self-Itching primer sounds interesting. I'll have to look into that. The engine paint I used supposedly didn't need primer. I'll check that stuff out though for whenever I do another project.

I don't foresee this saw seeing too many elements that will induce a premature paint failure/rust. It'll be my "fun" work saw.

Just ordered the bar for it yesterday too... 24" TsuMura Light bar. Stihl full chisel chain. Hopefully it has a little power.

 

On another note, I did putz with the saw a little last night. I dropped the flywheel side crank seal in. Which went perfect.

The pto side is a little different and I kind of screwed it up. I put the seal in and started tappin it down. But it doesn't seal on the crank itself so there was little pressure. I accidentally hit it too hard and it dropped in too far. I think it's pushing against the bearing because the crank went from free spooling to needing pressure to rotate it. Still smooth, there's just pressure on it.

The way it seals the pto side is (from inside out) bearing, tiny o-ring slid over crankshaft pressed against the inner race of bearing, then a two step bushing. The higher step of the bushing seals against the seal and the oring seals the inside of the bushing against the bearing race. Then there's a washer, oil pump parts then those are held down via the clutch.

 

So I'm going to have to see if I can use a seal pick and push the seal out some to eliminate the drag without ruining it. Otherwise, I'm gonna need a new pto side seal. I also ordered a new o-ring because the one I had looked a little flat spotted. I'll try and get some more pictures of that tonight. I figured i've Put this many new parts in thus far, why skimp on a $3 o-ring that could cause a leak/lean condition. "Do it right or do it twice" - some guy named @shadetree

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