1999 TRX300 4x4 Whining noise

[iamtherealJayy 0]

So same bike as my previous thread. New issue, not really previous issue was from trying to fix this one. I bought the bike because the one way bearing was installed wrong (backwards) I took it out flipped it but there was a whine so I ordered a new one and a gasket etc. whine is still present. It’s worse in gear than in neutral and it’s worse when decel than cruising. Is this clutch related? Here’s links to videos. 33° F cold start after sitting 3 days and a quick riding clip with revs in neutral, low to first shift. 

 

[Wheeler 2,527]

I’ve never heard anything like that before. I know these motors pretty well.. has to be clutch or bearing related if I’m gonna take stab in dark… when u had it apart did u inspect everything well for wear?

[iamtherealJayy 0]

The only thing that looked unusual was the cover had some wear but I assumed it was from the previous owners gear reduction. It has stock gears when I got it but it has been modified for a gear reduction. This is my first Honda so I don’t know much about it. It pulls fine shifts fine I admit the clutch drum? Did have some wear in it but the clutch and one way bearing are brand new. I had to retread the crank and replace the nut to hold the clutch one. When I got it the kickstart didn’t return and the reverse thing in the crank cover was just resting in there. Some of the knock when I bought it was the kickstart I got it spring loaded so that shouldn’t be an issue anymore but I don’t know if it returns I haven’t used it. 

[Fishfiles 20,147]

What about the thrust  washers , one  behind the primary  gear and one inside the clutch basket ?  Does this 300 have a gear reduction in it ?

 

[Harleydavidson 250]

either a invisible turbo or something in the trans seen alot of 300s 500s 350s 680s 650s and 250s all whine without reason had a 350 that whined so loud that with the muffler on and goin about 40 the whine would be louder than the engine rebuilt everything in there and still whined nothing big is wrong its just gonna be irritating  

 

 

and if you figure out what it is tell me

 

 

also kinda sounds like ya starter is not disconnecting 

Edited November 14, 2022 by Harleydavidson

[iamtherealJayy 0]

As for washers,  not positive, I know I took one off the shift lever part because it was binding, there’s one on the outside of the kickstart. I don’t remember any others? It had a gear reduction previously it doesn’t anymore. You can see where the case was ground down to fit the gear. I’m not positive where the whine is I just assume clutch because it does it worst when letting off throttle to decel

[Fishfiles 20,147]

#22 and #23 in this pic are the two thrust washing I was mentioning  >>>  with gear reduction , some builders say to leave #22  out or it will whine , maybe the washer was not replaced when the gear reduction was taken out , did you remove the reduction ? maybe who ever did , did not swop the clutch basket ---- I think I read where you never did try the kickstarter , there are two one way bearings , one works with the kick starter , maybe you have a problem there 

 

[iamtherealJayy 0]

I didn’t remove it. I bought the bike from a kid (actually older than me)who got it from a friend who obviously had no idea what they were doing. I got it and none of the key, electric atart, kickstart worked, gear selector is grounded so it shows neutral at all times, one way bearing in backwards, clutch hand tight and threads destroyed. Now #23 I have no idea I haven’t touched the change clutch, 22 I don’t think is present? Nor is part 21 and 24. In my other thread I asked about a pin or something similar to hold the nut on the crank and someone said there’s not one. I’ve got a picture that may show the crank if there’s not a washer in the photo than there’s not a washer there now. 

[iamtherealJayy 0]

I didn’t think about maybe that washer being behind the gear oops, I haven’t taken it any farther apart than the cover and clutch. Is there any good way to tighten the nut? I just used a 27mm socket on a ratchet and tighten it until it started to spin over then smacked the ratchet a couple times to snug it more. With how the threads looked i didn’t want to try and use an impact or anything to snug it. 

[toodeep 1,759]

The nut that holds the clutches (both of them) get staked into the hole in the crankshaft and main shaft. That's all that secures them besides being torqued. If that washer is gone, it was replaced with a bad clutch basket or primary gear you might get the whining noise that sounds like gears fighting each other.

 

You said you left out the shifter washer (should be one on the reverse lock lever also) because it was binding. You are using a gasket correct? If the previous left the gasket off and just used a sealant the spacing will be all wrong as it's designed to have that gasket spacing the cover out.

[iamtherealJayy 0]

Is the stake piece obtainable? There’s not one on the centrifugal clutch, I haven’t touched the change clutch so I didn’t notice if it had one. When I got it it had partial gasket but probably original, it leaked oil, old black papery gasket. I used a new green gasket but still leaks oil the bottom right two screw holes are junk. There is a washer on the reverse, I do remember it going towards the cover. If needed I can sadly pop the cover back off. Any way to keep the oil? I don’t want to drain it yet again 

[Fishfiles 20,147]

The " stake piece " as you are calling it , is the nut  , there is a tab built into the nuts ,  that gets bent into the threads ----

 

#10 and 11 are the thrust washers of the kick starter shaft , you need to be careful not to let #10 fall into the case 

 

If you want to save the oil , some people will tilt the entire atv  up and support  it with a jack stand  and the oil will stay in with the cover off , I would just clean the area around the drain plug , be careful to not let anything fall into the oil  and drain the oil into a clean container 

 

I am thinking that the thrust washer that fits inside of the primary gear , which rides behind the centrifugal clutch is not in there , likely when the previous owner took the reduction out and stuck the stock gear back in he did not install that washer , cause it will make a whining sound without it 

 

[iamtherealJayy 0]

The kick start is also missing a washer if it’s supposed to have two, there’s one on it. Is partzilla my best bet of getting these washers at the best price? I’ll go ahead and get another gasket when I order the washers since I ripped it around one of the dowels. It fit really snug over them oops. Does the washer go behind the gear behind the centrifugal clutch? Or just behind the clutch? I’ll have to check the diagram next time I’ve got it apart after gathering some parts. 

[Fishfiles 20,147]

I find Partzilla has the best prints to look up parts on  , many say Rocky Mountain ATV has the best prices , 

 

The primary thrust washer is #22 , the end of #13 is bored  for the washer to  fit inside of #13 

 

it is hard to know what  the P.O. did ---- 

 

When you get it apart , first thing when you get it apart , I would count the teeth on the primary #13  and the clutch basket gear #1 

 

[iamtherealJayy 0]

So all I have to remove is the centrifugal clutch to check for the washer? I guess I’ll take it all apart and look for missing and added washers, I was told to remove the shift lever washer because dude added it and made it bind. I do indeed prefer to get junk that has been unmolested than junk someone else tried to fix because then I know what all has and hasn’t been rigged to “get by for the time being” or a temporary permanent fix lol

[toodeep 1,759]

Do you have the service manual? If not you can find a download on the menu bar of the forum. I would download it, print off the section for the clutches and read through it before taking it apart again. Highlight and mark the important pages to reference back to so all the parts are in the correct place. If anything is a question, take a picture and post it. In that primary gear there are thin bushings to inspect, the teeth on the gear including the count need to be inspected and so on. When dealing with someone else's "repair to sale" or learning on how to repair everything needs to be looked at. These are pretty simple machines.

 

If there are bolts that are stripped out when you have the cover off is the best time to address those. You can heli coil them, tap them to a 1/4 inch bolt or possibly just find a 6mm bolt a little longer to get to what good threads are still there.

[jeepwm69 7,725]

Here's a good video showing what goes where.