jeepwm69 7,719 Posted March 7, 2023 Dad bought a Ferris zero turn a couple of years ago. Has a whopping 75 hours on it, and yesterday when I went to get it, it wouldn't turn over. Jumped the solenoid (which was a PITA to get to) and it spun, so I know battery is good and starter is good. I suspect one of the idiot proofing safety switches is the problem. I have a seat switch, a parking break switch, a PTO switch, and neutral switches all which will keep the starter from engaging. Looking at the schematic, I'm wondering if I can't run a jumper from S on the key switch to they yellow wire at the engine harness, which I THINK will bypass all that crap, at least enough for me to run it down the street, mulch my leaves, and part it at my place while I figure out what the problem is. Mower is currently parked in a shed at my sisters, so no lighting, and no tools up there. Any of you electrical nerds confirm that? I HATE electrical stuff like this. I didn't have the diagram to look at yesterday, just found it online. I wish I was an electrical nerd. I'm just an ordinary nerd LOL. No special skills. I did check the 15 amp fuse, did NOT check the 25 amp fuse yet (need to figure out where that one is), so that will be my first task. If that fuse is good, will jumping the yellow wire on the start switch straight to the solenoid bypass all this crap till I can do some troubleshooting? @retro @AKATV@Fishfiles@Melatv Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,147 Posted March 7, 2023 The copy is too fuzzy for me , can't read it ----- Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,719 Posted March 7, 2023 Just now, Fishfiles said: The copy is too fuzzy for me , can't read it ----- Well crap. I'm on a desktop at work so I can make it out. Probably too tiny to see on a phone. I'll email you a PDF. I think you can zoom in on it then. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pampas56 52 Posted March 7, 2023 email a pdf to [email protected] I retired as a high voltage hydroelectrician. Troubleshooting is FUN! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AKATV 839 Posted March 7, 2023 Jeep Cant quite read the diagram but keep in mind some of the switches will keep it from cranking and a switch or two also might kill spark, like the seat switch on my mower kills motor when you lift up from seat Depending on whether they are supposed to be open or closed when running, you can either unplug them and they will work or you can unplug and jumper the the harness with a piece of wire etc.. But. I think if you are just trying to get it started you could most likely jumper the switched 12v from the switch to the solenoid 12v input but again you (or we) will need to determine what switches are in the starter circuit and/or kill circuit should'nt be too hard though to just get it running and down the street to your place (Those zero turns are fun to drive!) AKATV 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pampas56 52 Posted March 7, 2023 If it is wired logically, there will be one or more permissive strings. Sounds like one for start and maybe one for run/kill. I will try to identify the strings and give you some jump points and test points. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,719 Posted March 7, 2023 Thanks guys. From what I could find nosing around, there are several safety switches on this thing, and they are wired to work together, if that makes sense. I saw one thread from interweb searching where a guy bypassed and said he went from S terminal on the ignition switch to the starter solenoid, so hoping that will work until I have time to properly troubleshoot. He didn't go into detail on what he did, and when someone else with problems asked exactly what he did he didn't respond. I just wanted someone who knows what they're doing to make sure I'm looking at this diagram correctly. Wiring schematics always look like Greek to me. Rain moving in tomorrow AM early, and i'd really like to get these leaves mulched before it comes in (spent all day Saturday and Sunday picking up sticks/limbs, 4 trailers full, 5x8 trailer piled head high) Then I can park at my place until I figure out which switch is the problem. @Pampas56 just emailed you the JPG above, along with the PDF manual. Manual won't let me save only that one page for some reason. Proper engine number is on page 52 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,969 Posted March 7, 2023 this gonna take you another yr or two to finish ?..rofl. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,719 Posted March 7, 2023 4 minutes ago, shadetree said: this gonna take you another yr or two to finish ?..rofl. Probably! I still have my old John Deere 112L from 1985 that I can use, but it takes me about 2.5 hours to do the yard with it, where I can do the yard in about 45 mins with Dad's zero turn. Needless to say this will be priority for a bit, because Mrs Jeep wants it done! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 797 Posted March 7, 2023 HI Jeep: The PTO switch has to be off -- key sw on -- the schematic is not complete -- connector to engine harness & B & S engine harness need to be showing before figuring it out. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Pampas56 52 Posted March 8, 2023 We are looking at three conditions: crank, start, run/kill In order for it to crank the yellow circuit needs to be complete. Parameters are PTO off, Parking Brake on and a pass through the hour meter. This can be bypassed by jumping from the battery terminal on the starter to the YR terminal with a push button or my favorite a flat blade screwdriver. I have started many GM and Mopar rigs this way! Testing starts with checking for voltage at the yellow terminal on the ign sw with the key off, if no voltage turn on and see if you get full voltage. If so go to the YR and check again. If NO voltage OHM out the PTO switch, Parking brake Switch and hour meter yellow wires. White is your run/kill circuit. The parameters are butt in the seat and parking brake off. If both conditions are met, it will run. Losing either one will ground the white wire and kill the ignition. If you get off the seat before setting the brake, YOU DIE. Again test for voltage and ohm out the seat and PB switch. The wire into the seat switch is white and the brown wire goes to the PB switch. It comes out on the black to ground. If this doesn't do it, I will look at the ignition circuit tonight. Steve 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,719 Posted March 8, 2023 Thanks Steve! First problem was a blown fuse. The 15 Amp was fine. There was another 25 amp tucked under a harness that was blown. I likely did that trying to jump the solenoid yesterday when I tapped ground and things got sparky. At that point I got it to turn over and start. Got to the end of the driveway and it died. Put parking brake on, started back. Put parking brake off, it died again. Wiggled connector around on parking brake switch, ran fine for a bit. Hit a bump in the yard and it died again till I wiggled the connector. Was able to get the yard done before the rains move in again. Will clean both sides of that plug well and dialectic grease it, and likely order a new switch since they’re only about $15. It is good to know how to “jump” start it in the future of necessary. Thanks for the help! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites