Gremlin 65 Posted January 19, 2020 (edited) So the motor I bought to replace my 350 was bought from a guy that destroyed the nuts trying to get them off. I soaked in PB for 2 weeks, heat cycles but just snapped them both off. Nuts!! There are still some of the studs showing. Should I attempt with stud remover? What is my best next course of action and can I replace them easily I dont mess the threads? My worst fear realized. Hahaha Edited January 19, 2020 by Gremlin Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,759 Posted January 19, 2020 You have them so give them a try. I weld nuts to them when I do it. If you have a hand held torch I would apply a little heat to the threaded area on the head. It might let the aluminum expands just enough to break the bond. 5 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gremlin 65 Posted January 19, 2020 25 minutes ago, toodeep said: You have them so give them a try. I weld nuts to them when I do it. If you have a hand held torch I would apply a little heat to the threaded area on the head. It might let the aluminum expands just enough to break the bond. They are lefty loosie? Not a reverse thread? Should I use propane or map? Aluminum is such a heat sink. I'll try with the removers first and if they won't I'll weld some nuts on. Welder isnin a different building so not anxious to move the engine there in the snow. Lol Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
toodeep 1,759 Posted January 19, 2020 Thet are regular threads. Either will work, just something to heat it just enough. 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gremlin 65 Posted January 19, 2020 Just now, toodeep said: Thet are regular threads. Either will work, just something to heat it just enough. Keep your fingers crossed for me. Lol. Think I'll heat cycle a bit and try to draw in some PB Blaster for a few days. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,147 Posted January 19, 2020 The welding a nut on the thread is the best way to go , but I am going to give it a low rate of success on those exhaust studs , it has worked for me a couple of times on 300 exhaust stud , more than not , it doesn't and breaks the stud again or the weld on the nut breaks loose ------two different metals have bad effects on seizing up when put against one and other , add in the heat factor of the exhaust and it makes a bad combination ---- I have had to drill out quite a few broken studs, and messed a couple up , it is hard to judge what is straight down the middle of the bolt because of the angle it goes into the head and since the aluminum threads are so soft , if you do secessfully drill right down the muddle , sometimes when you tap out the remaining threads left after drilling it will pull the existing threads out 4 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,071 Posted January 19, 2020 You might try sliding a thick, large diameter, but snug fitting washer onto the studs so they lay tightly against the aluminum head. Fender washers from an auto parts store might fit the studs snugly... use whatever suitable thick washers that you can find that are large diameter. Find two large grade 8 nuts that are just a bit smaller than the diameter of your washers. A 1/2" nut (3/4" socket fits them) might be a good size. Prep the studs by grinding the rust off so you can weld the washers onto them. Then slide a washer over each stud. Then use a large drift punch and a hammer to smack on the end of the studs to shock loose the dissimilar metals bond. Hit them hard but don't hit them so hard that you break the aluminum casting. Then weld those washers onto the studs and knock/brush the slag off until the steel is clean again. At this point you will have a welded nub sticking out of the center of the washer. Place large grade 8 nuts over the studs and weld those nuts to the washers. Then weld the hole in the nuts to the studs in its center. While the steel is still hot (but not red hot) put a socket on the nut and burp those studs loose using a 3/8 impact. If that don't work smack the nuts hard with a hammer again to break the bond and use a short breaker bar or ratchet to try loosening them again. And if that don't work ya gonna have to drill out your weld in the nut and drill out the studs the old fashioned way. 2 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gremlin 65 Posted January 19, 2020 Oh boy.....not looking forward to having to drill them out. Fingers crossed. I'm going to soak these for a few more days. Not sure if it will help but..... Thanks guys! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Outnback 101 Posted January 20, 2020 (edited) 21 hours ago, retro said: Prep the studs by grinding the rust off so you can weld the washers onto them. Then slide a washer over each stud. Then use a large drift punch and a hammer to smack on the end of the studs to shock loose the dissimilar metals bond. Hit them hard but don't hit them so hard that you break the aluminum casting. Then weld those washers onto the studs and knock/brush the slag off until the steel is clean again. At this point you will have a welded nub sticking out of the center of the washer. Place large grade 8 nuts over the studs and weld those nuts to the washers. Then weld the hole in the nuts to the studs in its center. While the steel is still hot (but not red hot) put a socket on the nut and burp those studs loose using a 3/8 impact. If that don't work smack the nuts hard with a hammer again to break the bond and use a short breaker bar or ratchet to try loosening them again. And if that don't work ya gonna have to drill out your weld in the nut and drill out the studs the old fashioned way. Had good luck with this in the past after lightly heating just the head! Don't want heat to transfer to the bolts. Edited January 20, 2020 by Outnback 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gremlin 65 Posted January 20, 2020 So, after grinding off the rust and examining the bolts....it was obvious it was going to be a gong show. They came out but only after one snapped off in the head, then the easy out snapped off in the head. The one I thought was going to break didn't and the one I thought would be cooperative wasn't. Had to retap and the stud is at a very slight angle now but I think it should work. I hope anyway. Thanks for all the advice guys. I hope to never, EVER have to attempt that again, ever! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Gremlin 65 Posted January 20, 2020 It may require a washer for spacing before the nut. What a pain. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
F250 guy 107 Posted January 26, 2020 (edited) Please watch this. Taryl Fixes All. Staring Taryl Dactal, Funny skits and informative. If you don't enjoy the comedy go to 3:54, but this guy has a full time shop in Indiana and knows his stuff, 40 years experience. A 2nd video, if again you don't like the skits as I enjoy them, go to 2:30. Edited January 26, 2020 by F250 guy Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
