2002 Rancher 350 ES no shift

[Rebel 1]

Hey guys,

 

As you can see, I'm new here and came across this forum while searching for a fix for my 2002 Rancher 350 ES.  You all seem very knowledgable and polite so this is what I've got.  Started off with not firing.  Haven't replaced any parts yet but took all connections apart and cleaned everything real good and put back together.  Then it blew igniton fuse when key was turned on.  After much trial and error and plugging and unplugging, I finally got it to fire and start up.  But only when the ECU is unplugged.  Also, no dash light and no shifting.  Is it possible that a bad ECU could be causing both problems?  Thanks for your time and advice in advance.

 

Rebel

[jeepwm69 7,619]

Welcome aboard. 

 

I'm not much on ES stuff (I convert them to footshift), but we have a few guys here who are good with them.

 

First question is, all OEM parts on the machine, or do have you any cheap Amazon/ebay aftermarket parts on it?

[Rebel 1]

All original parts on this one.  Only aftermarket rims.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

22 hours ago, Rebel said:

Hey guys,

 

As you can see, I'm new here and came across this forum while searching for a fix for my 2002 Rancher 350 ES.  You all seem very knowledgable and polite so this is what I've got.  Started off with not firing.  Haven't replaced any parts yet but took all connections apart and cleaned everything real good and put back together.  Then it blew igniton fuse when key was turned on.  After much trial and error and plugging and unplugging, I finally got it to fire and start up.  But only when the ECU is unplugged.  Also, no dash light and no shifting.  Is it possible that a bad ECU could be causing both problems?  Thanks for your time and advice in advance.

 

Rebel

 

OK, let's revisit this part....what exactly do you mean by "ECU"?  Bike shouldn't run at all with the ECU unplugged.

 

Tagging @retro and @Melatv

[Rebel 1]

The part by the right rear wheel that the rectifier bolts to.  It has a big rectangular plug with a bunch of llittle pins that plug in and a round plug.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

2 minutes ago, Rebel said:

The part by the right rear wheel that the rectifier bolts to.  It has a big rectangular plug with a bunch of llittle pins that plug in and a round plug.

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2002/trx350fe-a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4-es/wire-harness-trx350te-fe

 

So part #11 here?

 

 

[Rebel 1]

Yes sir.  the number on it is 38910-HN5-A11

[Rebel 1]

The problem now is if I plug the big rectangular plug in, it blows the ignition fuse as soon as I turn the key on.  If I unplug the rectangular plug, it starts and runs but no dash lights and no shifting.

[Rebel 1]

Okay, let  me start over.  2002 Honda Rancher TRX 350 ES.  Blows igniton fuse as soon as I turn the key on,  I have unplugged and cleaned every plug that I can find on it.  Have plugged every one back in one at a time, turning key on after each one.  Fuse does not blow until I plug the change control unit back in.  Does this mean the change control unit is bad, or could it be something else.  ATV will run if I do not plug the change control unit back in, but no shifting and no dash lights.  I appreciate any advice or tips on this problem.  Thank you.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

3 minutes ago, Rebel said:

Okay, let  me start over.  2002 Honda Rancher TRX 350 ES.  Blows igniton fuse as soon as I turn the key on,  I have unplugged and cleaned every plug that I can find on it.  Have plugged every one back in one at a time, turning key on after each one.  Fuse does not blow until I plug the change control unit back in.  Does this mean the change control unit is bad, or could it be something else.  ATV will run if I do not plug the change control unit back in, but no shifting and no dash lights.  I appreciate any advice or tips on this problem.  Thank you.

 

I'd say you've narrowed it down to that circuit for sure.  I'd trace wires and make sure you don't have a wire grounding out somewhere.  If you don't the logical next step would be to replace the module.

[Rebel 1]

I have went over the whole harness and can't find any broken or bare wires anywhere.  I had assumed it was going to be the change control unit.  If this is bad, will it shut down the dash lights also?  I think I'll try my chances on a used one off ebay, as I hate to spend $500 on a new unit and it still not fix my problem.  Any thoughts on a used one as opposed to buying a new one?  Thanks for the advice.  I always like to get a second opinion, especially when buying new parts.  I have a 420 for parts, but the change control unit on it is different.

 

[jeepwm69 7,619]

1 hour ago, Rebel said:

I have went over the whole harness and can't find any broken or bare wires anywhere.  I had assumed it was going to be the change control unit.  If this is bad, will it shut down the dash lights also?  I think I'll try my chances on a used one off ebay, as I hate to spend $500 on a new unit and it still not fix my problem.  Any thoughts on a used one as opposed to buying a new one?  Thanks for the advice.  I always like to get a second opinion, especially when buying new parts.  I have a 420 for parts, but the change control unit on it is different.

 

 

Powersportsnation.com stands behind what they sell.  They aren't cheap like they used to be, but they do stand behind what they sell.

 

Best bet would be to find a like machine local to you to try swapping a unit over from a running machine.  Where are you located?  I don't have any 350 Rancher bits like I do Foreman stuff, but someone else here might.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

Here's the wiring diagram from the factory service manual. 

 

Which of the two 30 amp fuses is blowing?  Looks like that connects to the shift motor and angle sensor directly from the ECU. 

 

Have you tried unplugging the shift motor, ECU plugged into the harness, and seen if that blows the fuse?  Wondering if the shift motor might have a short in it.

 

 

 

 

 

[Rebel 1]

Thanks for the diagram.  I'll check it out.  I'm located in Louisiana, right in the middle.  It's blowing the 10 amp ignition fuse, not the 30 amp main fuse.  I have not tried unplugging the shift motor yet.  I'll try that and see if anything happens.

[Rebel 1]

 Update.  I was able to borrow a module off of a TRX 250 with electric shift and it worked.  No blowing fuse and the electric shift is working again so I guess I'll try my luck with a used one from Powersports.  Still don't have any dash lights though.  I'll go back over the wiring harness tomorrow and try to find out why the dash lights are out.  Thanks for the help so far, and keep checking this thread as I might be back for more help with the dash lights if I can't figure it out.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

@AKATV is the dash wizard.

 

Glad to see that you narrowed it down to the module itself being bad.  

[AKATV 823]

If you have no dash lights do you mean the speedo does not  have a back light

or do you mean the Reverse/Neutral and Oil temp light are not working?

Post a picture, we can get you sorted out

AKATV

[Rebel 1]

The speedometer has a back light.  No oil temp, reverse/neutral light.

 

[AKATV 823]

It’s fairly common for the green, neutral LED to burn out- if you’re able to put it in neutral and start the machine then most likely your gear switch on the rear is working properly and the LED might just be burned out

is your speedometer showing N for neutral?

if not, double check LED by grounding out the green wire with red stripe your position switch or speedometer

If you put it in reverse in the reverse LED is not coming on then I would suspect that you have a problem with your gear switch or a wiring issue. If you remove the top cover of the speedometer and ground, the gray wire, your reverse LED should come on, you can also ground it down at the speedometer plug but it’s a little harder to get to you can try at the actual gear switch itself 

Removing the top cover of the speedometer might help you identify whether you have water damage to your internal circuit card as well.

If your oil temp light does not come on and then go out when you first cycle the key then  you either have a wiring / speedometer  l issue or an issue with your fan control unit, which on your model I believe is all integral to the CDI module 

Do you have the Honda Factory service manual for troubleshooting?

[Rebel 1]

I do not have the service manual.  I'm going to try to find a copy online today and download it.  Thanks for the advice, this will give me something to do today.  ☺️  I had a problem with it blowing ignition fuse and swapped another change control unit from a TRX 250 with electric shift and this got it running and shifting but the unit has a different number than my original unit.  Don't know if this would affect the dash or not.  When I first started working on this ATV when it was blowing fuses, I had a green neutral light and red oil temp light.  Now its just a back light and nothing else.  Also, fan is not working.

[AKATV 823]

We have a free service manual library for you to download here on the forum. here is the link.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/1VocUaF1K4_fDh_SVCaq3Rkc747M58ZQd

From what you now just told me, if your LEDs were working previously then something you’ve changed has caused them not to illuminate -you might want to check your gray harness plug down below where the speedometer plugs in

You need to have power on both the brown/black wire and red/black wire using green as ground with key on

Let us know what you find out

AKATV

Edited August 12, 2023 by AKATV

[Rebel 1]

Thanks for the link. Got it downloaded.

 

[Rebel 1]

I can't seem to find a BK/BRN or a RD/BK wire coming from the dash harness.  I've got 13 wires coming from the dash but none of them are those colors.

[Rebel 1]

When I turn the key on, I have 0 lights on the dash coming on.  No green neutral or red oil light or display or anything, only the backlight.  And the backlight goes out if I turn the headlights on.  I'm waiting on a change control unit to come in, because the original one is bad and I have a borrowed module off of a TRX 250 with electric shift on  it.  Would that be different enough to affect the dash lights?

[AKATV 823]

Post a picture of your wiring here real quick and I’ll take a look
Sometimes it’s easier just to unplug the circuit card from within the speedometer and work from the top side but also you can access these wires down at the speedometer plug at the gray harness connection down below have a bear to get to, but I don’t know if you have your front plastic removed or not