Davidtorresmx 7 Posted November 7, 2023 1 hour ago, retro said: Es posible que la biela esté doblada y/o el pistón roto ya que el motor estaba en marcha cuando se hundió. Mi opinión es que es posible que una biela doblada sea la razón por la cual su motor no funciona cuando se cambia de marcha, ya que con una biela doblada el pistón no llega a la parte superior del cilindro. Por tanto, la presión de compresión puede ser mucho menor de lo normal si la varilla está doblada. Una presión de compresión débil da como resultado una disminución de la potencia... su motor se detiene cuando encuentra una carga, por lo que una varilla doblada podría explicar por qué. No estoy diciendo que su motor tenga una varilla doblada, solo digo que es posible que la tenga, y si tiene una varilla doblada, puede esperar que apenas funcione, si es que funciona, dependiendo de la gravedad. Si la varilla está doblada, será necesario dividir las cajas y reemplazar el conjunto cigüeñal/varilla. La única forma de saber si está doblado es quitar el cilindro e inspeccionar la varilla y el pistón. Como han aconsejado otros, el motor debe desmontarse para limpiarlo de todos modos. That's a very good explanation you give me, I'm going to try and if possible I'll change the connecting rod along with the top end and valve train to make sure everything is in optimal working order. This forum has been very helpful, I thank you all 4 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shadetree 5,884 Posted November 8, 2023 1 hour ago, Davidtorresmx said: That's a very good explanation you give me, I'm going to try and if possible I'll change the connecting rod along with the top end and valve train to make sure everything is in optimal working order. This forum has been very helpful, I thank you all please keep us posted on this project !, you very well may help someone else with the same problem !. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted November 8, 2023 15 hours ago, shadetree said: please keep us posted on this project !, you very well may help someone else with the same problem !. I'm waiting for my new ECU, and I've already taken on the task of looking for spare parts for the crankshaft and connecting rod, as well as the top end. I will keep you informed of my progress 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,619 Posted November 8, 2023 8 minutes ago, Davidtorresmx said: I'm waiting for my new ECU, and I've already taken on the task of looking for spare parts for the crankshaft and connecting rod, as well as the top end. I will keep you informed of my progress The crankshaft will be pricey. There is a guy who rebuilds cranks and does excellent work. Vince at www.mrcrankshaft.com. He will install a new Vesrah (made in Japan) connecting rod on your old crank, clean it and true it. Much cheaper than a new crank. The top end you'll need to find a machine shop who can bore your existing cylinder to a new piston. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted November 8, 2023 6 hours ago, jeepwm69 said: El cigüeñal será caro. Hay un tipo que reconstruye bielas y hace un trabajo excelente. Vince en www.mrcrankshaft.com. Él instalará una nueva biela Vesrah (fabricada en Japón) en su manivela vieja, la limpiará y la ajustará. Mucho más barato que una manivela nueva. En el extremo superior, necesitará encontrar un taller mecánico que pueda perforar su cilindro existente para convertirlo en un pistón nuevo. What would be the clearance that should be made to my cylinder in the workshop? I have never opened that engine, I have had my Rubi for 3 years Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,619 Posted November 8, 2023 38 minutes ago, Davidtorresmx said: What would be the clearance that should be made to my cylinder in the workshop? I have never opened that engine, I have had my Rubi for 3 years It will depend on the wear to the cylinder. A good machine shop should be able to measure your cylinder, figure out how much oversized they will have to bore it to get it back to perfectly round again, and then tell you what sized piston to buy, and then they will bore the cylinder to match the piston (they will measure the piston to make sure it's exactly round, and the dimensions it's supposed to be, then bore the cylinder to match the piston) My normal guy is backed up, so I sent my last top end to these people. They do good work. If you send your cylinder to them, they will do what is needed and return it to you. Shipping will likely be expensive though since you are in Mexico. I would do some looking close to you and find a reputable shop who can do machine work on engines. https://www.ghdiscountatvsupply.com/honda-trx-500-rubicon-engine-motor-top-end-rebuild-kit-cylinder-machining-service/ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted November 9, 2023 16 hours ago, jeepwm69 said: It will depend on the wear to the cylinder. A good machine shop should be able to measure your cylinder, figure out how much oversized they will have to bore it to get it back to perfectly round again, and then tell you what sized piston to buy, and then they will bore the cylinder to match the piston (they will measure the piston to make sure it's exactly round, and the dimensions it's supposed to be, then bore the cylinder to match the piston) My normal guy is backed up, so I sent my last top end to these people. They do good work. If you send your cylinder to them, they will do what is needed and return it to you. Shipping will likely be expensive though since you are in Mexico. I would do some looking close to you and find a reputable shop who can do machine work on engines. https://www.ghdiscountatvsupply.com/honda-trx-500-rubicon-engine-motor-top-end-rebuild-kit-cylinder-machining-service/ Here in Mexico I don't know anyone who specializes in ATVs or engine rebuilding, I would choose to quote and send it to the USA to be machined there, what brand of piston do you recommend I buy? I will also take the opportunity to change my new valves and leave that rubi like new Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,619 Posted November 9, 2023 11 minutes ago, Davidtorresmx said: Here in Mexico I don't know anyone who specializes in ATVs or engine rebuilding, I would choose to quote and send it to the USA to be machined there, what brand of piston do you recommend I buy? I will also take the opportunity to change my new valves and leave that rubi like new I prefer Shindy, but they don't list a piston for the 01-14 Rubicon. I used Namura on my Rubicon, and it seems to be ok thus far. I just looked up part numbers, and Namura's website shows that the Rubicon and 05-11 Foreman FM/TM/FE use the same piston, so if that's the case, then a Shindy piston for those Foreman models should work. I did just sent an email to Shindy asking for confirmation. https://www.namura.com/results/?ftype=ATV/UTV&fyear=2007&fbrand=HONDA&fmodel=TRX500FE/FM/TM/FPE/FPM FOREMAN https://www.shindypro.com/product-page/piston-kits One thing about Numura, they go up to 1.5MM oversized, where Shindy only goes to 1.00MM oversized Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted November 9, 2023 23 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said: Prefiero Shindy, pero no incluyen un pistón para el Rubicon 01-14. Utilicé Namura en mi Rubicón y hasta ahora parece estar bien. Acabo de buscar números de pieza y el sitio web de Namura muestra que el Rubicon y el Foreman FM/TM/FE 05-11 usan el mismo pistón, así que si ese es el caso, entonces un pistón Shindy para esos modelos Foreman debería funcionar. Acabo de enviar un correo electrónico a Shindy pidiendo confirmación. https://www.namura.com/results/?ftype=ATV/UTV&fyear=2007&fbrand=HONDA&fmodel=TRX500FE/FM/TM/FPE/FPM CAPATAZ https://www.shindypro.com/product-page/piston-kits Una cosa acerca de Numura es que llegan hasta 1,5 mm de gran tamaño, mientras que Shindy solo llega a 1,00 mm de gran tamaño. I can go for a Namura, I've seen reviews on them, and they look very good quality, and they're not really expensive, just as with them I can buy new packaging from my top end Also through eBay you can request them with shipping to Mexico Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,619 Posted November 9, 2023 2 hours ago, Davidtorresmx said: I can go for a Namura, I've seen reviews on them, and they look very good quality, and they're not really expensive, just as with them I can buy new packaging from my top end Also through eBay you can request them with shipping to Mexico Just remember, you have to have your cylinder measured so you know which sized piston to order. Or, if you send to G&H, they will measure for you and use the correct piston (which was Namura when I sent my top end to them) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted December 8, 2023 Update, no change with new ECM, problem still the same, replaced ECM and angle sensor and no improvement 😭😭😭 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted December 10, 2023 I may be able to help you but I am busy today. I will try to come back tomorrow. Are all of the electrical parts on your Rubicon genuine Honda parts? Aftermarket parts do not work at all so you must be sure! Quizás pueda ayudarte, pero hoy estoy ocupado. Intentaré volver mañana. ¿Todas las piezas eléctricas de su Rubicon son piezas originales de Honda? Las piezas de repuesto no funcionan en absoluto, ¡así que debes estar seguro! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted December 11, 2023 19 hours ago, retro said: Quizás pueda ayudarte, pero hoy estoy ocupado. Intentaré volver mañana. ¿Todas las piezas eléctricas de su Rubicon son piezas originales de Honda? Las piezas de repuesto no funcionan en absoluto, ¡así que debes estar seguro! Quizás pueda ayudarte, pero hoy estoy ocupado. Intentaré volver mañana. ¿Todas las piezas eléctricas de su Rubicon son piezas originales de Honda? Las piezas de repuesto no funcionan en absoluto, ¡así que debes estar seguro! Hello, yes, they are all Honda Oem, I previously used an angle sensor from Amazon and I did not have any problems, I have taken on the task of installing the Oem parts and the problem will continue. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted December 11, 2023 With the motor running, does your Rubicon try to move when you shift into D1, D2, or R? Take the spark plug out and lay it on the motor with the spark plug wire plugged into the spark plug. Turn the ignition switch on, shift into D1, then use the recoil starter rope to crank the motor over.... do you see spark across the spark plug gap while you are pulling on the recoil rope? Con el motor en marcha, ¿intenta su Rubicon moverse cuando cambia a D1, D2 o R? Saque la bujía y colóquela en el motor con el cable de la bujía enchufado a la bujía. Encienda el interruptor de encendido, cambie a D1, luego use la cuerda del arrancador de retroceso para hacer girar el motor... ¿Ve chispas a través del espacio de la bujía mientras tira de la cuerda de retroceso? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted April 5 On 11/12/2023 at 17:57, retro said: Con el motor en marcha, ¿intenta su Rubicon moverse cuando cambia a D1, D2 o R? Saque la bujía y colóquela en el motor con el cable de la bujía enchufado a la bujía. Encienda el interruptor de encendido, cambie a D1, luego use la cuerda del arrancador de retroceso para hacer girar el motor... ¿Ve chispas a través del espacio de la bujía mientras tira de la cuerda de retroceso? Con el motor en marcha, ¿intenta su Rubicon moverse cuando cambia a D1, D2 o R? Saque la bujía y colóquela en el motor con el cable de la bujía enchufado a la bujía. Encienda el interruptor de encendido, cambie a D1, luego use la cuerda del arrancador de retroceso para hacer girar el motor... ¿Ve chispas a través del espacio de la bujía mientras tira de la cuerda de retroceso? Hello, the engine does start, in N it keeps working at idle fine, when changing to D or R the engine turns off immediately, the central screen shows D1, D2 and ESP, but the shutdown problem continues to persist. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 8 On 4/5/2024 at 7:52 PM, Davidtorresmx said: Hello, the engine does start, in N it keeps working at idle fine, when changing to D or R the engine turns off immediately, the central screen shows D1, D2 and ESP, but the shutdown problem continues to persist. @toodeep, do you think a bad gear position switch could cause the ignition to shut down? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted April 9 On 7/4/2024 at 18:53, retro said: @demasiado profundo, ¿Crees que un interruptor de posición de marcha en mal estado podría provocar que se apague el encendido? Could it be one of these in the image? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Davidtorresmx 7 Posted April 9 Before the flood the motorcycle was working perfectly, this failure arose as a result of the incident in the water Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 10 8 hours ago, Davidtorresmx said: Could it be one of these in the image? Yes, part number 6, Reverse Switch 35370-HN2-005. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/35370-HN2-005 I am only guessing though, I do not know for certain if a bad Reverse switch could cause the motor to die when shifting into gear, or not? This is what I would do.... Remove the Reverse switch from the gear shifter and try to clean it with electrical parts cleaner solvent or brake parts cleaner solvent, then test it to be sure it works -- then reinstall it onto the gear shifter. If the Reverse switch is bad you'll need to replace it. Check the switch on the underside of the Front Brake lever (right side of handlebar) and be sure that the front brake lever returns completely when releasing the front brakes. Does the brake lights work? If the brake lights turn on and turn off properly, then that switch is probably good. Unplug and test the Gear Position switch. Unplug and test the ESP switch. Reinstall all of the genuine OEM Honda parts that you replaced, including the carburetor, if you have not done so yet. Finally, you must Initialize the ECM (Initial Setting Procedure) since the Angle sensor and Carburetor were removed and replaced. I will include test procedures from the service manual in the next post. Sí, número de pieza 6, interruptor de marcha atrás 35370-HN2-005. https://www.partzilla.com/product/honda/35370-HN2-005 Sin embargo, solo estoy adivinando, no sé con certeza si un interruptor de marcha atrás defectuoso podría causar que el motor se apague al cambiar de marcha, o no. Esto es lo que yo haría.... Retire el interruptor de marcha atrás de la palanca de cambios e intente limpiarlo con solvente limpiador de piezas eléctricas o solvente limpiador de piezas de frenos, luego pruébelo para asegurarse de que funcione y luego vuelva a instalarlo en la palanca de cambios. Si el interruptor de marcha atrás está averiado, deberás reemplazarlo. Verifique el interruptor en la parte inferior de la palanca del freno delantero (lado derecho del manillar) y asegúrese de que la palanca del freno delantero regrese completamente al soltar los frenos delanteros. ¿Funcionan las luces de freno? Si las luces de freno se encienden y apagan correctamente, entonces ese interruptor probablemente esté en buen estado. Desenchufe y pruebe el interruptor de posición de marcha. Desenchufe y pruebe el interruptor ESP. Vuelva a instalar todas las piezas originales de Honda OEM que reemplazó, incluido el carburador, si aún no lo ha hecho. Finalmente, debe inicializar el ECM (procedimiento de configuración inicial) ya que se quitaron y reemplazaron el sensor de ángulo y el carburador. Incluiré procedimientos de prueba del manual de servicio en la próxima publicación. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 10 Important note! ¡Nota IMPORTANTE! Please keep us informed. Por favor mantennos informados. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
