04 Honda Foreman 500 turns die when select gear

[Davidtorresmx 7]

Hola espero poder ayudarme estoy muy desesperada, mi rubi 04 se ahogó en un rio el año pasado arranca y todo normal, el ralentí está bien y funciona sin problema y sin morir, puedo abrir el acelerador como sea tantas veces como quiera y seguirá funcionando normalmente me aparece en pantalla la posición de marcha D1, D2 y ESP, aunque a veces parpadea y luego se vuelve a estabilizar, pero cuando cambio de marcha N a D o R simplemente se apaga y gira. se apaga incluso sin tocar el acelerador como aparece en el video, ahora que cuando abro el acelerador en D o R se muere más rápido, he reemplazado el sensor de ángulo, el carburador, vacié y limpié el tanque de combustible, cambié la válvula de combustible, he cambiado el aceite al menos unas 5 veces para una limpieza profunda, cambié mi rectificador de voltaje, bobina, bujía, batería, estoy cansado, simplemente no encuentro la solución desde mayo del año pasado, Estoy realmente desesperado por esto
 

 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

1 hour ago, Davidtorresmx said:

Hola espero poder ayudarme estoy muy desesperada, mi rubi 04 se ahogó en un rio el año pasado arranca y todo normal, el ralentí está bien y funciona sin problema y sin morir, puedo abrir el acelerador como sea tantas veces como quiera y seguirá funcionando normalmente me aparece en pantalla la posición de marcha D1, D2 y ESP, aunque a veces parpadea y luego se vuelve a estabilizar, pero cuando cambio de marcha N a D o R simplemente se apaga y gira. se apaga incluso sin tocar el acelerador como aparece en el video, ahora que cuando abro el acelerador en D o R se muere más rápido, he reemplazado el sensor de ángulo, el carburador, vacié y limpié el tanque de combustible, cambié la válvula de combustible, he cambiado el aceite al menos unas 5 veces para una limpieza profunda, cambié mi rectificador de voltaje, bobina, bujía, batería, estoy cansado, simplemente no encuentro la solución desde mayo del año pasado, Estoy realmente desesperado por esto
 

 

 

Hello, I hope you can help me, I am very desperate, my 04 rubi drowned in a river last year, it starts up and everything is normal, the idle is fine and it runs without problems and without dying, I can open the accelerator as many times as I want and it will continue to work normally The gear position D1, D2 and ESP appear on the screen, although sometimes it flashes and then stabilizes again, but when I change gears from N to D or R it simply turns off and turns. it goes out even without touching the accelerator as it appears in the video, now that when I open the accelerator in D or R it dies faster, I have replaced the angle sensor, the carburetor, I emptied and cleaned the fuel tank, I changed the throttle valve fuel, I have changed the oil at least 5 times for a deep cleaning, I changed my voltage rectifier, coil, spark plug, battery, I'm tired, I just can't find the solution since May last year, I'm really desperate about this

 

Bienvenidos a ATVH, alguien estará en breve

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

¿Tiene un manual de servicio y muestra un código en la pantalla? es posible que tengas una charla con too deep, jeep o retro, eso es en lo que puedo pensar ahora mismo, Nunca he tratado con modelos más nuevos así que...

 

Is it flashing a code on the screen, and do you have a service manual? I would chat with @toodeep @jeepwm69 , or @retro that's who I can think of right at this moment. 

[Davidtorresmx 7]

13 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

¿Tiene un manual de servicio y muestra un código en la pantalla? es posible que tengas una charla con too deep, jeep o retro, eso es en lo que puedo pensar ahora mismo, Nunca he tratado con modelos más nuevos así que...

 

¿Está mostrando un código en la pantalla y tiene un manual de servicio? yo charlaria con@demasiado profundo @jeepwm69 , o@retro es en quien puedo pensar en este momento. 

It shows code 12, non-recoverable code it says in the service manual, I'm not sure whether to buy a new ECM, or keep trying

[jeepwm69 7,619]

So a code 12 will tell you to replace the ECU.   That said, have you pulled apart all of the electrical plugs and checked for moisture and corrosion?    If the connection is marginal, then the machine will throw error codes even if the components are fine.

 

So the first thing to do is pull apart every electrical plug on that machine, clean them out with contact cleaner, check for corrosion on the pins in the connectors, and then put them back together with dialectic grease to seal out against future moisture intrusion.

 

If that doesn't help, then a new ECU would logically be the next step.

 

Where are you located?   Anywhere to source used OEM parts in your area?

[Davidtorresmx 7]

18 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Entonces, un código 12 le indicará que reemplace la ECU. Dicho esto, ¿desconectó todos los enchufes eléctricos y comprobó si hay humedad y corrosión? Si la conexión es marginal, la máquina arrojará códigos de error incluso si los componentes están bien.

 

Entonces, lo primero que debe hacer es separar todos los enchufes eléctricos de esa máquina, limpiarlos con un limpiador de contactos, verificar si hay corrosión en las clavijas de los conectores y luego volver a ensamblarlos con grasa dialéctica para sellarlos contra futuras intrusiones de humedad.

 

Si esto no ayuda, entonces lógicamente el siguiente paso sería una nueva ECU.

 

¿Dónde te encuentras? ¿Dónde encontrar piezas OEM usadas en su área?

I checked all the connections one by one, and put dielectric grease, if necessary I will do it again, before purchasing a new ECU, I am in Mexico, I buy my parts through eBay, if you have an account where can I get my parts it would be great

[jeepwm69 7,619]

8 minutes ago, Davidtorresmx said:

I checked all the connections one by one, and put dielectric grease, if necessary I will do it again, before purchasing a new ECU, I am in Mexico, I buy my parts through eBay, if you have an account where can I get my parts it would be great

 

The part you need is 30410-HN2-003.   You might see if @shadetree's buddy still has the old Rubicons that he tried to rebuild (think they had bad transmissions).  He might sell an ECU off of one of them.

 

I would do a little more checking before I bought a new ECU though.  I've had Hondas say "replace ECU" in the manual only to find that it was a loose connection somewhere, so the new ECU I bought didn't fix the problem, and of course, they won't allow electrical parts to be returned so you get stuck with a $$$ part that didn't fix your problem.

 

I normally buy used parts from powersportsnation.com.  They aren't exactly cheap anymore, but they do stand behind what they sell, including electrical stuff.   They don't have one in stock at the moment though.

 

Motosport.com has a new one at $256.  That's the cheapest new one I could find.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

One other thing I can recommend. @Brian Bertram is the foremost expert on these Hondamatic machines.   He isn't on here much, but he does normally respond to emails.

 

 

[Davidtorresmx 7]

15 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Otra cosa que puedo recomendar.@Brian Bertrames el mayor experto en estas máquinas Hondamatic. No está mucho por aquí, pero normalmente responde correos electrónicos.

 

 

 

20 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

La pieza que necesitas es 30410-HN2-003. Podrías ver si@shadetreeEl amigo todavía tiene los viejos Rubicons que intentó reconstruir (creo que tenían malas transmisiones). Podría vender una ECU de uno de ellos.

 

Sin embargo, comprobaría un poco más antes de comprar una ECU nueva. He tenido Hondas que dicen "reemplazar la ECU" en el manual solo para descubrir que había una conexión suelta en alguna parte, por lo que la nueva ECU que compré no solucionó el problema y, por supuesto, no permiten que se reemplacen las piezas eléctricas. devuelto para que te quedes atascado con una pieza $$$ que no solucionó tu problema.

 

Normalmente compro piezas usadas en powersportsnation.com. Ya no son precisamente baratos, pero respaldan lo que venden, incluido el material eléctrico. Aunque por el momento no tienen stock.

 

Motosport.com tiene uno nuevo a 256 dólares. Es el nuevo más barato que pude encontrar.

I have bought some spare parts with powersportsnation, I liked that my shipments come very safely to Mexico

[Davidtorresmx 7]

16 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Otra cosa que puedo recomendar.@Brian Bertrames el mayor experto en estas máquinas Hondamatic. No está mucho por aquí, pero normalmente responde correos electrónicos.

 

 

Thank you very much, I will send you an email with my problem, I am desperate to mount my Rubicon

[shadetree 5,884]

6 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

The part you need is 30410-HN2-003.   You might see if @shadetree's buddy still has the old Rubicons that he tried to rebuild (think they had bad transmissions).  He might sell an ECU off of one of them.

 

I would do a little more checking before I bought a new ECU though.  I've had Hondas say "replace ECU" in the manual only to find that it was a loose connection somewhere, so the new ECU I bought didn't fix the problem, and of course, they won't allow electrical parts to be returned so you get stuck with a $$$ part that didn't fix your problem.

 

I normally buy used parts from powersportsnation.com.  They aren't exactly cheap anymore, but they do stand behind what they sell, including electrical stuff.   They don't have one in stock at the moment though.

 

Motosport.com has a new one at $256.  That's the cheapest new one I could find.

i gave up on those elec shift junk, lol. they would not shift to save my life. this is the very reason i do not work on ele shifts..spec auto's !..lol. i did get the engines to run , but they would not shift, so that told me to wash my hands of them. motor wise..they were good..tranny wise ?..JUNK !..LOL.

[retro 4,048]

Quote

Hello, I hope you can help me, I am very desperate, my 04 rubi drowned in a river last year, it starts up and everything is normal, the idle is fine and it runs without problems and without dying, I can open the accelerator as many times as I want and it will continue to work normally The gear position D1, D2 and ESP appear on the screen, although sometimes it flashes and then stabilizes again, but when I change gears from N to D or R it simply turns off and turns. it goes out even without touching the accelerator as it appears in the video, now that when I open the accelerator in D or R it dies faster, I have replaced the angle sensor, the carburetor, I emptied and cleaned the fuel tank, I changed the throttle valve fuel, I have changed the oil at least 5 times for a deep cleaning, I changed my voltage rectifier, coil, spark plug, battery, I'm tired, I just can't find the solution since May last year, I'm really desperate about this

 

Was the motor running when it sunk in the river? If so the motor may have been seriously damaged; such as a bent connecting rod and/or a broken piston skirt or broken piston ring land. So if the motor was running when it sunk you'll need to take the motor apart.

 

You have replaced a lot of parts. Are all of the parts you replaced genuine Honda parts? If any of the parts are aftermarket parts then you'll need to put your genuine Honda parts back on it. Cheap china aftermarket parts do not work on a Honda.

 

As mentioned by others, you'll need to open every electrical connector on the Rubicon and clean & dielectric grease the wire terminals and seals inside the connectors. Also remove and clean the ground wire connections where they bolt to the frame.

 

Please let us know if the motor was running when it sunk. And if there are any aftermarket parts on your Rubi.

 

¿Estaba el motor en marcha cuando se hundió en el río? De ser así, es posible que el motor haya sufrido daños graves; como una biela doblada y/o un faldón de pistón roto o una base de anillo de pistón rota. Entonces, si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió, necesitarás desmontarlo.

 

Has reemplazado muchas piezas. ¿Todas las piezas que reemplazó son piezas originales de Honda? Si alguna de las piezas es de posventa, deberá volver a colocarle las piezas originales de Honda. Las piezas de repuesto baratas de China no funcionan en un Honda.

 

Como mencionaron otros, deberá abrir todos los conectores eléctricos del Rubicon y limpiar y engrasar con dieléctrico los terminales de los cables y los sellos dentro de los conectores. También retire y limpie las conexiones del cable de tierra donde se atornillan al marco.

 

Háganos saber si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió. Y si hay piezas de recambio en tu Rubi.

[Davidtorresmx 7]

19 hours ago, shadetree said:

Renuncié a esa basura del turno eléctrico, jajaja. No se moverían para salvar mi vida. Esta es la razón por la que no trabajo en turnos eléctricos... ¡especificaciones automáticas!... jaja. Hice que los motores funcionaran, pero no cambiaban, así que eso me dijo que me lavara las manos. En cuanto al motor...eran buenos...en cuanto a transexuales?...¡BASURA!...LOL.

I also drive a Trx 500 FM, with foot shift, now I just want to solve the problems with my Rubicon

[Davidtorresmx 7]

13 hours ago, retro said:

 

¿Estaba el motor en marcha cuando se hundió en el río? De ser así, es posible que el motor haya sufrido daños graves; como una biela doblada y/o un faldón de pistón roto o una base de anillo de pistón rota. Entonces, si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió, necesitarás desmontarlo.

 

Has reemplazado muchas piezas. ¿Todas las piezas que reemplazó son piezas originales de Honda? Si alguna de las piezas es de posventa, deberá volver a colocarle las piezas originales de Honda. Las piezas de repuesto baratas de China no funcionan en un Honda.

 

Como mencionaron otros, deberá abrir todos los conectores eléctricos del Rubicon y limpiar y engrasar con dieléctrico los terminales de los cables y los sellos dentro de los conectores. También retire y limpie las conexiones del cable de tierra donde se atornillan al marco.

 

Háganos saber si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió. Y si hay piezas de recambio en tu Rubi.

 

¿Estaba el motor en marcha cuando se hundió en el río? De ser así, es posible que el motor haya sufrido daños graves; como una biela doblada y/o un faldón de pistón roto o una base de anillo de pistón rota. Entonces, si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió, necesitarás desmontarlo.

 

Ha reemplazado muchas piezas. ¿Todas las piezas que reemplazó son piezas originales de Honda? Si alguna de las piezas es de posventa, deberá volver a colocarle las piezas originales de Honda. Las piezas de repuesto baratas de China no funcionan en un Honda.

 

Como mencionaron otros, deberá abrir todos los conectores eléctricos del Rubicón y limpiar y engrasar con dieléctrico los terminales de los cables y los sellos dentro de los conectores. También retire y limpie las conexiones del cable de tierra donde se atornillan al marco.

 

Háganos saber si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió. Y si hay piezas de recambio en tu Rubi.

The engine was running at the time of the sinking, the replacement parts such as angle sensor and rectifier are Honda Oem, I will do tests with an ecu that I ordered on eBay, if not successful I will open and replace the internals of my engine

[Davidtorresmx 7]

13 hours ago, retro said:

 

Was the motor running when it sunk in the river? If so the motor may have been seriously damaged; such as a bent connecting rod and/or a broken piston skirt or broken piston ring land. So if the motor was running when it sunk you'll need to take the motor apart.

 

You have replaced a lot of parts. Are all of the parts you replaced genuine Honda parts? If any of the parts are aftermarket parts then you'll need to put your genuine Honda parts back on it. Cheap china aftermarket parts do not work on a Honda.

 

As mentioned by others, you'll need to open every electrical connector on the Rubicon and clean & dielectric grease the wire terminals and seals inside the connectors. Also remove and clean the ground wire connections where they bolt to the frame.

 

Please let us know if the motor was running when it sunk. And if there are any aftermarket parts on your Rubi.

 

¿Estaba el motor en marcha cuando se hundió en el río? De ser así, es posible que el motor haya sufrido daños graves; como una biela doblada y/o un faldón de pistón roto o una base de anillo de pistón rota. Entonces, si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió, necesitarás desmontarlo.

 

Has reemplazado muchas piezas. ¿Todas las piezas que reemplazó son piezas originales de Honda? Si alguna de las piezas es de posventa, deberá volver a colocarle las piezas originales de Honda. Las piezas de repuesto baratas de China no funcionan en un Honda.

 

Como mencionaron otros, deberá abrir todos los conectores eléctricos del Rubicon y limpiar y engrasar con dieléctrico los terminales de los cables y los sellos dentro de los conectores. También retire y limpie las conexiones del cable de tierra donde se atornillan al marco.

 

Háganos saber si el motor estaba funcionando cuando se hundió. Y si hay piezas de recambio en tu Rubi.

Do you suggest I rebuild my top end engine?

[shadetree 5,884]

1 minute ago, Davidtorresmx said:

Do you suggest I rebuild my top end engine?

if it was sunk in water, its best to pull engine, split it, clean it out very good, there is no short cuts to rebuilding a engine. just doing a top end will not last long if its been sunk in deep water.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

27 minutes ago, shadetree said:

if it was sunk in water, its best to pull engine, split it, clean it out very good, there is no short cuts to rebuilding a engine. just doing a top end will not last long if its been sunk in deep water.

 

Wellll, that depends on the water.  If he sank it in clear clean water, might get by with it, but if you want to do it RIGHT then splitting cases is the only way to go.

 

I've seen a few sunk in clear water that have run fine for years after simply draining and refilling with clean oil until the oil stays clear (my 06 was sunk twice over the last 4-5 years, and I didn't split cases and it was fine).

 

But, since his engine starts up, runs at idle and will rev up fine in Neutral, but then dies the minute he puts it in gear, that sounds more electrical than mechanical to me.   The oil pump that drives the Hondamatic pumps oil whether in neutral or gear.

 

29 minutes ago, Davidtorresmx said:

Do you suggest I rebuild my top end engine?

 

 

 

 Not necessarily.  Top end problems will be smoking or not starting/ running properly.   Your engine appears to RUN fine.   You MIGHT have something off in the bottom end though, that will require tearing down the entire engine.  See pics in the link above to see what that would involve.

[Davidtorresmx 7]

49 minutes ago, shadetree said:

Si se hundió en agua, lo mejor es sacar el motor, partirlo, limpiarlo muy bien, no hay atajos para reconstruir un motor. Simplemente hacer un extremo superior no durará mucho si se hundió en aguas profundas.

My new ECU arrives next week, when I put it in I will do tests again, I hope that is the solution since the code 12 it showed, the service manual suggests replacing it

[shadetree 5,884]

21 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Wellll, that depends on the water.  If he sank it in clear clean water, might get by with it, but if you want to do it RIGHT then splitting cases is the only way to go.

 

I've seen a few sunk in clear water that have run fine for years after simply draining and refilling with clean oil until the oil stays clear (my 06 was sunk twice over the last 4-5 years, and I didn't split cases and it was fine).

 

But, since his engine starts up, runs at idle and will rev up fine in Neutral, but then dies the minute he puts it in gear, that sounds more electrical than mechanical to me.   The oil pump that drives the Hondamatic pumps oil whether in neutral or gear.

 

 

 Not necessarily.  Top end problems will be smoking or not starting/ running properly.   Your engine appears to RUN fine.   You MIGHT have something off in the bottom end though, that will require tearing down the entire engine.  See pics in the link above to see what that would involve.

word from the wise: there is no such thing as clear water !..lol.

[Davidtorresmx 7]

24 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Wellll, that depends on the water.  If he sank it in clear clean water, might get by with it, but if you want to do it RIGHT then splitting cases is the only way to go.

 

I've seen a few sunk in clear water that have run fine for years after simply draining and refilling with clean oil until the oil stays clear (my 06 was sunk twice over the last 4-5 years, and I didn't split cases and it was fine).

 

But, since his engine starts up, runs at idle and will rev up fine in Neutral, but then dies the minute he puts it in gear, that sounds more electrical than mechanical to me.   The oil pump that drives the Hondamatic pumps oil whether in neutral or gear.

 

 

 Not necessarily.  Top end problems will be smoking or not starting/ running properly.   Your engine appears to RUN fine.   You MIGHT have something off in the bottom end though, that will require tearing down the entire engine.  See pics in the link above to see what that would involve.

I also lean towards the electrical side, my oil pump does have pressure, 5 oil changes until the oil came out completely clean, just like the filters were replaced, it starts and accelerates well in neutral, problem 2 carburetors and He does the same with both of them.

[Davidtorresmx 7]

26 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Bueno, eso depende del agua. Si lo hundió en agua limpia y limpia, podría arreglárselas, pero si quieres hacerlo BIEN, entonces dividir las cajas es el único camino a seguir .

 

He visto algunos hundidos en agua limpia que han funcionado bien durante años después de simplemente drenar y rellenar con aceite limpio hasta que el aceite permanezca limpio (mi 06 se hundió dos veces en los últimos 4 o 5 años y no dividí las cajas). y estuvo bien).

 

Pero, dado que su motor arranca, funciona al ralentí y acelera bien en punto muerto, pero luego se apaga en el momento en que lo pone en marcha, eso me suena más eléctrico que mecánico. La bomba de aceite que impulsa el Hondamatic bombea aceite ya sea en punto muerto o en marcha.

 

 

 No necesariamente. Los problemas más graves serán fumar o no arrancar/funcionar correctamente. Su motor parece FUNCIONAR bien. Sin embargo, PODRÍA tener algo mal en la parte inferior, lo que requerirá desmontar todo el motor. Vea las fotos en el enlace de arriba para ver qué implicaría eso.

My Rubicon was already smoking before it sank, it's time to rebuild the top end of my engine.

[jeepwm69 7,619]

41 minutes ago, Davidtorresmx said:

My Rubicon was already smoking before it sank, it's time to rebuild the top end of my engine.

 

Oh, well in that case, yes, go ahead and tear engine down, thoroughly clean everything out, and reassemble with a new oversized piston and bored cylinder.

 

When you sink an ATV, grit and dirt normally gets into the engine with the water, so simply rebuilding the top end doesn't get that dirt out, nor will simply flushing.   Tearing the engine all the way down and cleaning everything out is the only way to get the engine completely cleaned out.   I've rebuilt a top end without doing this, and sand and grit worked its way up to my new top end and ruined it in short order.

 

Disassemble, inspect, clean, and reassemble.  I normally do a new OEM timing chain and oil pump chain at this time, since you're already in the engine.  

 

Pics in my thread above, and here's a video showing the same. 

 

 

[jeepwm69 7,619]

47 minutes ago, shadetree said:

word from the wise: there is no such thing as clear water !..lol.

 

Well we know the right way to do it.  Split cases, clean out, reassemble.

 

Since I keep an extra engine on the shelf ready to go, I just drain/fill and ride it till it smokes, then swap the other engine in.

[retro 4,048]

1 hour ago, Davidtorresmx said:

The engine was running at the time of the sinking, the replacement parts such as angle sensor and rectifier are Honda Oem, I will do tests with an ecu that I ordered on eBay, if not successful I will open and replace the internals of my engine

 

It is possible that the connecting rod is bent and/or the piston is broken since the motor was running when it sunk. My thinking is that it's possible that a bent connecting rod could be the reason why your motor will not run when shifted into gear -- since with a bent rod the piston does not reach the top of the cylinder. So the compression pressure can be much less than normal if the rod is bent. Weak compression pressure results in decreased power.... your motor stalls when it encounters a load so a bent rod could explain why.

 

I am not saying that your motor has a bent rod, just saying that it is possible that it does, and if it does have a bent rod you could expect it to barely run, if at all, depending on the severity. If the rod is bent the cases will need to be split and the crankshaft/rod assembly will need to be replaced. The only way to learn if it is bent is to take the cylinder off and inspect the rod and piston.

 

As others have advised, the motor should be disassembled for cleaning anyway.

[shadetree 5,884]

1 hour ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Well we know the right way to do it.  Split cases, clean out, reassemble.

 

Since I keep an extra engine on the shelf ready to go, I just drain/fill and ride it till it smokes, then swap the other engine in.

and in the time it takes you to do all that ^^ ?, i can split my engine, clean it out, install it ONCE !..ROFL. you dang green horns never listen eh ?..rofl.