Mach 1 21 Posted February 28 Ok, had to redo first test since I had negative battery cable connected, disconnected so BOTH not on battery, now I have no continuity on the relay harness connector, weird, had continuity with just positive battery off, now with both off, no continuity!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted February 29 Ok, it's been a while so I went back and read this thread from the beginning. It looks like we left off with no power to anything, the display, lights etc. all dead. So nevermind the Relay tests for now, we need to find out if the Ignition switch has failed or not. As stated a few times earlier, DO NOT PLUG ANY CHINA PART IN AT ANY TIME. Throw them all away. Remove the front rack and the front fender and find the Ignition switch 4p connector and unclip it from the frame. Put your multimeter in Continuity mode or Resistance mode and check continuity at the switch-side of the connector on the two wire color pairs as shown in this diagram. Test with the Ignition switch turned Off and then test again with the switch turned ON. Report those results. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted February 29 Yea, I had lights, no display. Will do ignition switch, for continuity on this one its lead to wire, no one lead on ground correct? Coil and relay in trash, battery is disconnected along with PCM..thanks for reply. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted February 29 Yeah there are two pairs of wires, Red/black and pink is one pair and Red and Black is the other pair. With the key off there should be no continuity between the Red/black and pink and no continuity between the Red and Black. With the key turned on there should be continuity between the Red/black and Pink and continuity between the Red and Black. You're working inside the connector on the switch side, not the harness side.... let me know those test results. Leave the battery disconnected for now, but go ahead and plug in your new OEM relay module and OEM coil and plug your ECM/PCM back in carefully, so everything is ready to go except for the Ignition switch and battery. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted February 29 Ok, I never did get relay/coil, will order now..are they necessary for test or should I just tear down front and wait till parts arrive? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 1 Yeah you can go ahead and check the Ignition switch. Let me know how that goes. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 7 I got all parts in..was wondering, since I had so many Chinese junk parts, before tearing apart front end for ignition switch, thoughts on hooking up all new parts , connect battery and QUICKLY seeing what I got. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 14 Update: I hooked up all components and battery, hit ignition and no blown fuses but would not crank( fuel pump did energize). I have no spark with new coil, I peeled back small amount insulation and threaded on boot..no spark and after about 20 seconds coil got HOT, couldn't even touch metal post so hot..coil wire and 2 wires to coil normal temp..just coil itself with no spark, though even while cranking fuse didn't blow, guessing coil getting that hot not normal so removed and disconnected battery again..thoughts??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,611 Posted March 14 Sounds similar to what I have going on with the 2013 Foreman with no spark. (which is pretty much a 420 with a bigger jug on it) Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 14 Dang that sucks..I'm at 14 years old, just hit 3000 dirt road no mud miles..I tried disconnecting positive side of coil only, fuse didn't blow, all wires look pristine, good ground,verified kill switch working correctly, wondering if ecu or pulse generator..whats throwing me off is how hot the coil gets fairly quickly. Amazed no fuse blowing anymore but still an issue. Hope you can figure out your issue as well. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 14 I've even ran a jumper wire from positive side of battery to positive side of coil if coil has connections to do this and bypass everything to diagnose. Any thoughts on doing this?? Is "green" wire on coil "positive"? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,611 Posted March 14 Green on a Honda is almost always ground. On the coil, the black/red wire is + and the green wire is - Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 14 So hold up, on coil, has green and black tab, so green wire goes on black tab or green tab? Why the ! couldn't they just you red/black?? Think I have reversed them to troubleshoot but its gotten way upon overwhelming, ready to just buy new machine, my wife miss going for rides 😞 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,611 Posted March 14 Green wire on green tab. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 14 Yeah the coil is marked for each wire color. Do not plug them in wrong, they'll get hot and short. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 14 1 minute ago, jeepwm69 said: Green wire on green tab. The coil has to be bolted down too. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,611 Posted March 14 1 minute ago, retro said: The coil has to be bolted down too. Yeah, that's my buddy's that I borrowed last week to try on that Foreman I'm working on. I took pics of the wires to makes sure I put it back the way it was supposed to be. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 16 Is being bolted down something affecting spark? I'm missing one female clip on that hold down tray. Let me add no fuses blown, no codes on display, as soon as I turn on key coil heats up FAST @! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted March 17 It sounds like wiring may be melted together shorting. I'd look for overheating evidence then measure voltages and grounds until the problem is found. Unfortunately I can't help ya sort it out right now since I am well along on a bathroom rebuild project. I'll be gone for another 3 weeks or so. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 29 I can't find ANY shop to look at it..I am lost..just wonder chance I got a bad coil, PCM just to expensive to just "try", even asked around to see about trying a used one to try, maybe waste some more money and get a used one off ebay..I know coil getting power since it gets SO hot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted March 30 Tried running a jumper from + battery to blk side coil...nothing. Wow, even a used PCM is pricey, especially to troubleshoot. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 1 I have checked ALL wiring, even though no spark, obvious coil getting power since it gets hot, intial issue of 10 A ignition fuse blowing is fixed..gonna bite the bullet and order PCM, unless I am the unluckiest B that got a bad coil lol, if after ALL that, if not fixed, anyone make a REASONABLE offer for a as new, 420TEA and I will just say F it and buy a new one, been going on WAY TO LONG :( Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,611 Posted April 1 i feel your pain. The 2013 Foreman I'm trying to fix has the same "coil getting hot" no spark issue. I'm stumped. Found a used harness on ebay with a PCM, and made an offer. Seller pulled the listing, then relisted the harness only, without the PCM, and raised the price $100! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
