Mach 1 21 Posted April 1 13 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said: i feel your paint. The 2013 Foreman I'm trying to fix has the same "coil getting hot" no spark issue. I'm stumped. Found a used harness on ebay with a PCM, and made an offer. Seller pulled the listing, then relisted the harness only, without the PCM, and raised the price $100! A holes take advantage of our misery Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 3 Sorry I've been away doing RLS for a while.... If I were you I would measure the resistance of the coil windings of your new OEM coil before going any further. Your coil is getting hot so it might be shorted. So, unplug the coil from the harness and measure resistance between the two connectors. Write that down.... then measure between the Black/Red terminal and ground (the stack of steel plates on the coil) and write that down. Then measure between the Green/Yellow terminal and ground and write that down. Then between the Black/Red and the spark plug boot and between the Green/Yellow and spark plug boot and finally, between the spark plug boot and ground. Let us know those measurements. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 On 4/3/2024 at 12:23 PM, retro said: Sorry I've been away doing RLS for a while.... If I were you I would measure the resistance of the coil windings of your new OEM coil before going any further. Your coil is getting hot so it might be shorted. So, unplug the coil from the harness and measure resistance between the two connectors. Write that down.... then measure between the Black/Red terminal and ground (the stack of steel plates on the coil) and write that down. Then measure between the Green/Yellow terminal and ground and write that down. Then between the Black/Red and the spark plug boot and between the Green/Yellow and spark plug boot and finally, between the spark plug boot and ground. Let us know those measurements. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 10 I see no secondary windings at all, the secondary windings are measuring open circuit. Try setting your multimeter to a higher resistance range that will cover up to 10,000 ohms minimum (10k or the next higher range) and measure those again. Make sure that your meter probe is contacting the metal spark plug clip inside the boot while measuring. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 4 minutes ago, retro said: I see no secondary windings at all, the secondary windings are measuring open circuit. Try setting your multimeter to a higher resistance range that will cover up to 10,000 ohms minimum (10k or the next higher range) and measure those again. Make sure that your meter probe is contacting the metal spark plug clip inside the boot while measuring. Ok, I did measurement without boot, probe straight into wire end. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 I set meter on 20K BLK TO BOOT- 18.80 GREEN TO BOOT - 18.80 BOOT TO GRD - 0 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 So not in spec? Some of it or the last readings I posted in thread of connectors to boot? Are ALL readings looking bad? In other words, with coil getting warm, could I have that QUICKLY burned out a NEW coil? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 10 That's better, it looks like you have a secondary winding now. However, I don't know what the secondary should measure since the service manual doesn't publish that spec. But I expected to see the secondary measuring between 6.5k ohms to 9.8k ohms, within a similar range to the older model coils whose specs were published by Honda. So I don't know.... it looks wrong to me. Your primary winding measurement is higher than I expected as well, but it looks reasonable, so I can't shoot it down. My conclusion....? It's possible that your coil is bad but I can't prove my analysis without having a known good working coil in hand to test. I need to understand more about how the ECM loads and unloads the primary winding as well, with the only clue that I have to analyse those functions being that the Black/Red terminal receives battery voltage at all times while the ignition switch is on. I need a functional Rancher to test and learn from... so basically what I'm saying is that I'm not knowledgeable enough to help you decide whether the ECM (and/or coil) is bad or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 Thanks retro, heck, could have gotten a bad NEW coil since you would think brand new SHOULD give at least a spark BEFORE getting hot..guess I'm saying its not like it melted immediately, takes time to heat up so again, think I will try ANOTHER coil, but this time will measure BEFORE install and post, if both show same readings at least have a baseline for other members to know specs since would be quite the coincidence that 2 with same specs BOTH bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 Thanks retro, heck, could have gotten a bad NEW coil since you would think brand new SHOULD give at least a spark BEFORE getting hot..guess I'm saying its not like it melted immediately, takes time to heat up so again, think I will try ANOTHER coil, but this time will measure BEFORE install and post, if both show same readings at least have a baseline for other members to know specs since would be quite the coincidence that 2 with same specs BOTH bad. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 Oh, one more thing..isn't thats what fuses are for? I would think if I turn key, it would blow ignition fuse before it would allow coil to fry? Kinda like initial issue when I turn key would immediately blow fuse. Hard to wrap my head around now fuse good, but no spark?? Gonna order new coil, just leery of getting coil from same company may have gotten a bad one. Will update with new coil. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 10 Just now, Mach 1 said: think I will try ANOTHER coil, but this time will measure BEFORE install and post, if both show same readings at least have a baseline for other members to know specs since would be quite the coincidence that 2 with same specs BOTH bad. That sounds reasonable to me! DO NOT PLUG THE NEW COIL IN THOUGH! Just measure it when you get it and let us know those readings so we can analyze them. Mark the new coil that you have now and mark the new coil when it arrives so you won't get them mixed up while we test them. In the meantime I am going to try to build a Peak Voltage Adapter for you. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 10 12 minutes ago, Mach 1 said: Oh, one more thing..isn't thats what fuses are for? I would think if I turn key, it would blow ignition fuse before it would allow coil to fry? Kinda like initial issue when I turn key would immediately blow fuse. Hard to wrap my head around now fuse good, but no spark?? Gonna order new coil, just leery of getting coil from same company may have gotten a bad one. Will update with new coil. We don't know enough about how the ECM controls the coil so we must assume that a good coil may possibly get hot over time without blowing a fuse. Just don't plug the next new coil in until we learn more about it. Order your next coil from RockyMountainATV beginning at this link to insure that you get a genuine Honda coil (part number 30510-HP5-601) : https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Honda Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 10 I need a few days (very busy right now) to build a Peak Voltage Adapter for you. I'll PM you when I get one ready to ship. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 10 7 minutes ago, retro said: I need a few days (very busy right now) to build a Peak Voltage Adapter for you. I'll PM you when I get one ready to ship. Thats fine..yea, this coil was from Rocky..just ordered 2nd coil from Rocky...daaaaannng price jump if you don't get free shipping, $72 for troubleshooting lol. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,612 Posted April 10 7 minutes ago, Mach 1 said: Thats fine..yea, this coil was from Rocky..just ordered 2nd coil from Rocky...daaaaannng price jump if you don't get free shipping, $72 for troubleshooting lol. Man you gotta work the system. You should have ordered a seal or a couple of bolts or a wheel center cap to get you the free shipping! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 13 On 4/10/2024 at 1:26 PM, Mach 1 said: I set meter on 20K BLK TO BOOT- 18.80 GREEN TO BOOT - 18.80 BOOT TO GRD - 0 These figures above are a new oem coil AFTER I hooked up and had no spark, GRN to BLK was 2.3 ohms. These measurements on paper are a NEW OEM out the box before installing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted April 13 Hi -- The green/yellow should read infinity -- that wire is pulled to ground by the PCM -- unplug the Gray 33P connector from the PCM -- unplug the Green/yellow wire on the coil and check that wire for continuity of that wire to ground -- it should read infinity -- if it does the PCM is at fault. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 14 11 hours ago, Melatv said: Hi -- The green/yellow should read infinity -- that wire is pulled to ground by the PCM -- unplug the Gray 33P connector from the PCM -- unplug the Green/yellow wire on the coil and check that wire for continuity of that wire to ground -- it should read infinity -- if it does the PCM is at fault. Thanks, retro said my meter is junk so I've got a new one coming he recommended, will check your measurements when I get it. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 20 Ok, got out my new meter and did coil readings, both OEM, one tested out the box, other coil was new and was used to crank with no spark and got hot quickly. Also, tested grn wire from coil to ground with gray connector unplugged from ECU...meter was at .0L, no change testing wire, not sure what it means ??? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 20 Measurements look more trustworthy now. On your green to plug wire boot and black to plug wire boot, does your autoranging meter display 18.50K ohms? The range indication may appear in the corner of the screen where you may not notice it...... Also FYI just in case, the stack of metal plates sticking out of the end of the coil is ground for measurement purposes. With the 33p ECM connector unplugged and the green/yellow unplugged from the coil, check continuity or resistance again between the green/yellow coil harness wire terminal and ground. The result should be an open circuit. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 20 So I tested green to ground with 33 pin disconnected..meter stayed at 0 in resistance/contuinty, so is that a good reading? Yea, think that is 18.50K . Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted April 20 Yeah good reading, so the green/yellow is not shorted to ground which likely means that the ECM is bad. However, there is no way to test the ECM so the decision whether to replace it or not is all yours. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mach 1 21 Posted April 20 Ok thanks, guess the China parts caused an issue..guess will look for an ECM from somewhere. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
