Jump to content
Liam Nixon

Fuel pump problems on 1990 Fourtrax 350

Recommended Posts

So while I've been waiting on parts to fix my 450 foreman I started to do a bit of work an old 350 my neighbour owned, I had to replace the fuel pump and the new one worked fine and dandy for a while, I wired in a which to it and lo and behold now the fuel pump isn't operating correctly, at first it wouldn't do anything, then it started to marginally work, like it would pump some fuel every so often, basically just enough to get it to idle, I'm wondering if the wiring is at fault or did the new pump burn out, any response is appreciated 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

oem pump ?, or china crap from ebay or amazon ?, is the fuel cut-off replay new ?. if you got it from ebay/amazon ?, thats why it died !..lol. you can't wire them to a switch..it does not work !.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
29 minutes ago, shadetree said:

oem pump ?, or china crap from ebay or amazon ?, is the fuel cut-off replay new ?. if you got it from ebay/amazon ?, thats why it died !..lol. you can't wire them to a switch..it does not work !.

It's a new oem pump and a brand new relay from pro-cycle so it kinda confused me that it started acting up 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

You wired a winch into it? No don’t wire anything else to the pump.

 

wire the winch to the accessory circuit 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, Goober said:

You wired a winch into it? No don’t wire anything else to the pump.

 

wire the winch to the accessory circuit 

Sorry I mean I wired a winch to the bike, it's not attached to the pump at all sorry if I confused you

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Hi: Is the battery fully charged?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
47 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Hi: Is the battery fully charged?

So after investigation the pump and everything function, but the actual carb isn't letting it rev past a certain point or it starts sputtering, gonna investigate further when I can I guess

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Posted (edited)

😎 sounds like you now have a Dirty carb

easy to rebuild with a Shindy kit and a new choke valve

Edited by Goober

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Make sure the timing on the throttle is correct.  The butterfly valve should just start to open and the throttle slide starts to rise. The adjustment arm is known to break on them and put the throttle timing out of sequence.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I'm gonna replace the carb, I'm having difficulty finding a cheap replacement, where would be good place to order from?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

if the diaphragm in the top the carb gets a crack or a hole it does just what you are saying 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
49 minutes ago, Liam Nixon said:

I'm gonna replace the carb, I'm having difficulty finding a cheap replacement, where would be good place to order from?

what ever you do , don't waste your money on a cheap carb , chinese carbs are very hit and miss , mostly miss ---if you want to buy a carb buy a oem with the correct code for your year and model and rebuild it , or just rebuild yours 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I don’t know that you can trust that ProCycle relay—can you try an OEM relay?

 

is you fuel tank rusty? Tank suction tubes clear? Petcock seal properly aligned? Fuel filter clogged? Fuel lines cracked?

 

If you replaced the pump maybe it got extra good at clogging up the suction lines

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

if the diaphragm in the top the carb gets a crack or a hole it does just what you are saying 

these carbs do not have a diaphragm in them, they have slides, and butter fly valves.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

what ever you do , don't waste your money on a cheap carb , chinese carbs are very hit and miss , mostly miss ---if you want to buy a carb buy a oem with the correct code for your year and model and rebuild it , or just rebuild yours 

you can't buy new carbs for these any more, they are discontinued today.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
8 hours ago, Liam Nixon said:

I'm gonna replace the carb, I'm having difficulty finding a cheap replacement, where would be good place to order from?

You cannot find a cheap replacement that works—the cables won’t fit, the choke valve won’t seat well—just not the way to go.

those machines take a Keihin QA03A—very easy to rebuild. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
7 hours ago, shadetree said:

these carbs do not have a diaphragm in them, they have slides, and butter fly valves.

I guess , I need to quit guessing , and  stick to stripping them 350 Foremans for their rear ends and passing on the left overs , never realized the carbs were different ------- I had a 350 Rancher carb with the diaphragm slider carb on my 92 300 for a while , that was a disaster , swop that carb for a 96 and it still didn't perform , got the correct code carb from Manny , and it screams now -----what ever happened to Manny , I got his number , I need to give me a call 

 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
16 hours ago, Goober said:

I don’t know that you can trust that ProCycle relay—can you try an OEM relay?

 

is you fuel tank rusty? Tank suction tubes clear? Petcock seal properly aligned? Fuel filter clogged? Fuel lines cracked?

 

If you replaced the pump maybe it got extra good at clogging up the suction lines

The pro-cycle relay is an OEM part, and the fuel pump was replaced 2 weeks ago with an OEM pump, when it's off the carb and I try to start the bike it just pours gas out like it's life depends on it so there's no problem there, but as soon as I try to get moving in gear it just starts sputtering.

 

10 hours ago, Goober said:

You cannot find a cheap replacement that works—the cables won’t fit, the choke valve won’t seat well—just not the way to go.

those machines take a Keihin QA03A—very easy to rebuild. 

Okay but what about another OEM crab from a different bike? Buddy told me that may work with some negotiation, but I'm hesitant, what's the best way to attack it?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Posted (edited)

Ok this is good info. if fuel is pouring out the carb i take that as an excellent sign—you’re getting fuel.

 

Overflowing means your float valve isn’t closing off fuel when the bowl is full. Very common. The tip of the float needle can become dirty or brittle. The valve seat can become build up a layer of oxidation.The float can also go out of tolerance.

 

buy a Shindy rebuild kit if you want new seals and jets; when you get into the carb you may find the passage plug is worn. Since the Shindy kit doesn’t include it—i am not aware that it’s separately available—you would then need a Honda gasket kit. 


here are two of my Keihin QA03A ready to go—you can see the passage plug missing from one carb. It’s in the gasket pack between 

I would stick with Quad-specific OEM 

 

 

003C18B9-E481-450C-9D11-25BE41FE7695.jpeg

Edited by Goober
  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
8 hours ago, Goober said:

Ok this is good info. if fuel is pouring out the carb i take that as an excellent sign—you’re getting fuel.

 

Overflowing means your float valve isn’t closing off fuel when the bowl is full. Very common. The tip of the float needle can become dirty or brittle. The valve seat can become build up a layer of oxidation.The float can also go out of tolerance.

 

buy a Shindy rebuild kit if you want new seals and jets; when you get into the carb you may find the passage plug is worn. Since the Shindy kit doesn’t include it—i am not aware that it’s separately available—you would then need a Honda gasket kit. 


here are two of my Keihin QA03A ready to go—you can see the passage plug missing from one carb. It’s in the gasket pack between 

I would stick with Quad-specific OEM 

 

 

003C18B9-E481-450C-9D11-25BE41FE7695.jpeg

I'm sorry I should've specified a bit clearer, I meant when I take the fuel line off and try to crank it over the pump is pumping plenty of fuel, not that the carb itself is leaking any, and it was working fine, like perfectly, until I wired up my winch, I'd there anything that could be affected by doing that?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

how did you wire the winch ? (straight to battery with a inline fuse) a winch should NOT be wired the accessory power... outlet...on those old tanks... the accessory wire harness is not designed to carry the amperage ... to operate a winch.... 

 

post us some pics of the wire job. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

how did you wire the winch ? (straight to battery with a inline fuse) a winch should NOT be wired the accessory power... outlet...on those old tanks... the accessory wire harness is not designed to carry the amperage ... to operate a winch.... 

 

post us some pics of the wire job. 

I'll post some pics later today, but yes I wired her up to the battery and not the accessory socket, and it is a fused linkage too yes which is wired to the key as not to operate without the bike being on

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Oh ok i read it wrong.  You’re getting plenty of fuel. Sputtering when in gear. Has the carb ever been rebuilt? Is it a Keihin QA03A? Rebuild it.

 

wiring the winch. Here’s mine on my TRX300. Where did you mount the contactor (big relay)?.  Red controller wire goes from control switch to accessory hot wire. Up/down controller wires go from controller to contactor control terminals (B and LG). Winch power cables go from winch to large contactor terminals Blue and Yellow. Main power comes from the battery Red and Black cables and connected to largest contactor terminals 

49C46AD2-C626-4F3A-BE6A-EAC7B51A066D.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

but yes I wired her up to the battery and not the accessory socket, and it is a fused linkage too yes which is wired to the key as not to operate without the bike being on

 

being the fuel pump issue started after the winch wiring, my thinking is the PO may have done some wire harness hacking ...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
On 5/14/2020 at 9:58 AM, Goober said:

Oh ok i read it wrong.  You’re getting plenty of fuel. Sputtering when in gear. Has the carb ever been rebuilt? Is it a Keihin QA03A? Rebuild it.

 

wiring the winch. Here’s mine on my TRX300. Where did you mount the contactor (big relay)?.  Red controller wire goes from control switch to accessory hot wire. Up/down controller wires go from controller to contactor control terminals (B and LG). Winch power cables go from winch to large contactor terminals Blue and Yellow. Main power comes from the battery Red and Black cables and connected to largest contactor terminals 

49C46AD2-C626-4F3A-BE6A-EAC7B51A066D.jpeg

I mounted it underneath the front plastic just below the grey plastic section, and it's the stock carburetor as far as I know

 

13 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

 

 

being the fuel pump issue started after the winch wiring, my thinking is the PO may have done some wire harness hacking ...

That was kind of my thinking too, it is kind of a sketchily done in some areas, I'm going to go over the whole wiring harness and also get a rebuild kit for that carburetor

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...