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Well come to find out I ha e a bad tie rod end & not a bad bearing. I called Honda & I swear to God they wanted $63 an end. I said NO way! I called up a local shop & they have me an upgraded tie rod complete set coming. Not a clue if it’s AllBalls or not... $145 for the complete kit. If it is, I’ll see how it lasts compared to the OEM joints. I couldn’t justify $252 for just the ends. 

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Posted (edited)

i fixed mine with a grease needle. the newer stuff i bought is still laying around here somewhere. i do got one bent tie rod, i can see it. but the steering is so much better, i never fixed it. granted it hasnt run in a few years, i got sciatica. but at the time, it felt like i had power steering. i like 5lbs. of air in my Dunlap's.,

cheap 2 ply tire.

i stuck the needle, in the most outer part of the boot, and felt my way around, to what i wanted to grease. for the most part, i didnt ride in to much water or mud, so that might have made a difference. did the CV joints as well, with grease. they were making noise.

the old farmer, the dealer told me about. much like the old lady , that only goes to church on sunday, an drives, is not the one, who had this atv, before me.

i did fall for the line, he only drove it to check his cows, or fence lines. lol

i still think i got a good deal, at the time. i know of people who paid more, and got less. 🙂

Edited by LedFTed
same

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Greaseable joints would be great. I don't ride mud, or water. I mean I built mine basically to conquer anything I come across on the trail.. streams, mud holes etc... these joints are 4 years old this fall. Fish, only reason I went local, is because I need them by this week end. Shipping into Canada sucks! I ordered my WideOpen Repair kit from HL last month. Been calling every week as to what's up. They just shipped it out yesterday. 

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i believe ??? there's thread some place (probably) in the old forums about someone drilling, tapping and adding zerk fittings ... to atv ball joints. 

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saw this .. whether it's legit ...i couldn't say ... 

 

The HD Can-am rod ends will fit the 300 FYI, check out American Star Racing.

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2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

i believe ??? there's thread some place (probably) in the old forums about someone drilling, tapping and adding zerk fittings ... to atv ball joints. 

 @retro did that.  Drilled a tiny hole in the top, used a grease needle, but he didn't add a zerk.  He used a little sealant to close the hole.

 

OEM tie rod ends are only $7 or $8.  Tie Rods aren't cheap new, but used they are.  I just use OEM ends and keep extra stock tie rods on hand in case I bend one.

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3 hours ago, Wheeler said:

. Fish, only reason I went local, is because I need them by this week end. Shipping into Canada sucks! I ordered my WideOpen Repair kit from HL last month. Been calling every week as to what's up. They just shipped it out yesterday. 

I keep forgetting you have to deal with the border shipping , amazing how much you'll  have to pay for  stuff up there , seen the price of the oem tie rod ends from Partzilla on that link I posted , $10.50 each and $63 each  was your price , wow that is a mark up 

 

I broke a tie rod end in the woods a couple of weekends back , I should have rode home on someone else's bike and got another one and changed it in the woods , cause I got drug home and  broke an axle and bent a tie rod steering bar , this weekend past I had a spare steering bar with ends strapped to my rack with zip ties and wrenches in the trunk box 

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2 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 @retro did that.  Drilled a tiny hole in the top, used a grease needle, but he didn't add a zerk.  He used a little sealant to close the hole.

 

yeah recall that post, not a bad idea Imo and with a needle greaser it wouldn't take but a very very small hole 

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15 hours ago, LedFTed said:

did the CV joints as well, with grease. they were making noise

 

i wouldn't have punched needle holes in the cv boots .... from what i gather from them making noise .. they probably need replacing ... but that's just my thinking ...  

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I use the hyper-dermic needle on the tie rods and ball joints , have never stuck the cv-shaft boot -------  it makes a  hole that is so small , I think it closes it's self up after pulling the needle out ---- I have that needle on one of them small one hand held pistol looking grease guns that you use for greasing the tip of a chain saw , and fill the tube with marine grease 

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yep! i did the same with a hypodermic needle injector ..(with bel-ray water proof grease) .. made a world of difference .... plus with the added 424 kickout it's like having power steering ... I'd  never punch the c-v boots .... my thinking is you'd never be able to get the grease where it needs to go..(the needle isn't long enough) . before the boot expands due to the pressure ... plus there's more flexing with the c-v boots ... but that's just my thinking...and not as simple to replace as a ball joint.and sure enough costly ... 

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Got them today. They are the All Ball upgrade kit. I must say, the rods are a lot bigger than OEM. I’ll see how they hold up. 

image.jpg

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Big Balls  had to make them steering rods  a bigger diameter , cause they are made of melted down junk washing machines , lawn mowers and hot water heaters that were sent to China as #2 scrap metal , LOL -----  I seen Honda gets $35 for each steering rod , that would be $100 in Canada , eh !  

 

 

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Posted (edited)
On 6/17/2020 at 12:14 PM, _Wilson_™ said:

i believe ??? there's thread some place (probably) in the old forums about someone drilling, tapping and adding zerk fittings ... to atv ball joints. 

i tried to look that up today. i got tired of searching. i did find a few results. i was looking for the best place to buy a zerk lit.

i dont run much in water or mud. the place i stuck the grease needle, i could feel the joints an bearings, with the needle, inject grease, where i wanted. the noise disappeared when i turned, after that. maybe i just masked the sound, though, i think not. it dont feel like that.

it made a difference, even if it only extends the life of the bearings 2 or 3 thousand thousand miles. i expect it to go much farther.

Edited by LedFTed

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22 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

i wouldn't have punched needle holes in the cv boots .... from what i gather from them making noise .. they probably need replacing ... but that's just my thinking ...  

maybe they need replacing after 5,000 miles, i just didnt believe it. time will tell. 🙂

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what bearings ?? c-v joints aren't bearings .... nether are all joints ... 

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

what bearings ?? c-v joints aren't bearings .... nether are all joints ... 

you got me!!,

i greased the joints, those balls in-between, and where they rest, they have no bearing. at my age, i still have trouble with proper names, from day one, i cant do names so well. i dont think its worth your time to correct me, cause even if you do, i wont remember it. an hour or less from now, up to a split second, i might not know what you taught me. i, and my friends, called those things CV joints. if you want me to remember the proper name, i need to see it on picture, or paper, and more than once.

i learn things different. three times if i am driving, at most, if im a passenger, i might not learn to way. correct this old dog. lol

and good luck.

Edited by LedFTed
i dont remember

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Posted (edited)

i wasn't correcting you,  ... i was just trying to figure out what bearings you were talking about ..(don't get your hair up) . lol.....it's no biggy :-) I'm glad punching holes and greasing worked. 

Edited by _Wilson_™

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16 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

what bearings ?? c-v joints aren't bearings .... nether are all joints ... 

 

Sounds like he's talking about CV joints.

 

They are kinda like a swivel bearing with the balls in there.....

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I forgot how awesome the tie rods are to change lol. Easiest way is to pull the front diff, & remove the steering plate. I’m just not gonna have time for all that fun today... 

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13 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Sounds like he's talking about CV joints.

 

They are kinda like a swivel bearing with the balls in there.....

 

yeah i gathered .. but let me ask ... the inboard IS a tulip (5 ball) .... but I'm drawing a blank on the out board ... is it tripod ( 3 roller ) , or,is a smaller tulip joint ... and only the inboard (only oem c-v joints)   can be taken apart and clean / inspected / lubed, and re booted 

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Not sure about the outer, but you're right as far as being able to disassemble the outer.  I think you just take the inner off, then remove the outer boot and you can clean it and regrease with a new boot, but you can't take it apart.

 

I only did a couple before I decided that buying new/used CV's was worth it.

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thanks! i understand the design of the inner being it has to push in and out for suspension travel.... just can't figure why honda didn't make the out boards to be completely disassemble a simple snap ring .... added the inner side of the outer shaft would work just fine to hold the cage assembly in place ... but i reckon they had there reasons ... 

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What a fun time getting everything apart for some reason but, she’s apart... I definitely used red lock tire on everything!!

image.jpg

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