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BoCephas

250 FourTrax replacement carb?

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24 minutes ago, Goober said:

It’s the Zatarains what does the magic!

the carb  would probably come out the boil black , LOL ----Shoot , people might pay for that , call it Cajun anodizing   

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To all concerned:  here's an update on my carb situation. Got the carbs from fishfiles and a can of cleaner and an allballs carb kit.

Everything cleaned up real good (looks new!), got carb spray thru all ports, blew air thru all ports. Installed new float, ( I had bought one before the carbs came in, so I still have a spare!) Removed towel from cylinder and inspected o-ring surface where boot attaches. What I found was, the surface had been coated with permatex (hardening type).

So I question this.  Why?  Did the previous owner see that the o-ring was flat, and instead of replacing it, decided to seal with permatex?

(Not just the o-ring sealing surface, but the whole flange) Or did he not even see the o-ring in the boot, but decided permatex would seal since there he had no gasket? REMEMBER THIS IS LIKELY THE SAME INDIVIDUAL who peened the main jet in the bore, and rounded off the screw heads on the slide valve, so the jet needle could not be replaced , then went to work with a grinder !

I spent considerable time removing the dried-on permatex while not damaging the sealing surface. Lots of carb cleaner and a toohbrush 

finally got it cleaned up. I definitely need to build a raised platform to put my vehicles on so I don't spend so much time bending over.

The old back is sore tonight.

Tomorrow I will install (hopefully) the carb and gas tank, with a filter, and see what happens.

This brings up another question. The two 6mm bolts that mount the boot to the cylinder; they appeared to have thread-lock on them.

Is this necessary?  My Clymer manual says 7-10 foot pounds torque. My wrench doesn't go that low. Years ago I found out when you

turn your wrench below the lowest setting, you cannot rely on any accuracy. Guess I'll stop tightening right before I strip it out !!

Thanks for your patience in reading this long post and for all the interest and comments..hoping for some answers...

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You're gonna catch crap for the AllBalls carb kit(don't have a good reputation in the quality arena). That aside.

 

Loctite on the carb boot screws. Gonna say not needed. Tighten it til it feels right....shouldn't be super tight...Good and snug is my guess.

 

Good luck!

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thanks for the info.! as for the carb kit, I only needed the bowl gasket from it. The rest of the kit was shindy. The shindy gasket did not fit,

only place I could get a kit today only had the allballs...

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15 minutes ago, BoCephas said:

thanks for the info.! as for the carb kit, I only needed the bowl gasket from it. The rest of the kit was shindy. The shindy gasket did not fit,

only place I could get a kit today only had the allballs...

 

Good answer! 🙂

 

The 2nd Shindy kit I got(long story, don't follow my lead...but I do have 2 carbs now that will likely work)..the bowl gasket wasn't right on 2nd kit. I made it work...but itw asn't as good of quality as the first kit.

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[auote]So I question this.  Why?  Did the previous owner see that the o-ring was flat, and instead of replacing it, decided to seal with permatex?[/quote] 

 

some questions you can't answer ... why he added the goo... ? well just chalk it up to lack of experience / skill, or looking for a quick TEMP fix.... 

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PO was a DA from the sound of it... Long story short on the Permatex. No place for that on a carb boot...

He paid more for that tube of goo than a metric o-ring kit at the same parts store. Could have fixed this and 49 other things lol

 

The reason your carb boot bolts are thread locked is two-fold.

They are going into metal that gets hot and cold so it acts as an anti-seize and if that boot loosens up you suck air and potentially dirt directly into the engine bypassing the carb. Obviously that would affect the running lol

 

Probably not needed but if you have some go ahead. 

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i've bought shindy carb kits for years, and never, not once have i had a kit not fit all parts ?. my answer to this would be either your carb is not the correct carb ?, or your kit is not for that carb ?. as for perma crap on the anything ?..JUST NO !!, DA'ss do stupid stuff every day..its folks like this that keep me in the money !..lol. as for the screws in the main jet needle ?, yes..sometimes they strip out, are a royal pain to get out, i've used map gas set on a low heat from the bottom of the slide to help loosen years of crud on those 2 tiny screws. it takes alot of down force, and a very good screw driver to turn them, been there, done that. last but not least: STAY THE H__LL AWAY FROM ANYTHING THAT HAS '' ALL BALLS '' ON THE PACKAGE !!!. 

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also, be warned: there is ton's of sellers on ebay that claim shindy kits are ..well..shindy ?..they are not !!!!.

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Finally got the carb installed. Started easy and great idle. Let it warm up good and  took a ride. Lousy acceleration, but never died out. Runs smooth if you ease the throttle up. Thinking maybe too lean so when it cooled I backed pilot screw out 1/4 turn .  (I wonder if anyone ever thanked the Keihin carb folks for placing the pilot screw on the bottom so you can burn your hand in 3 places?)

The old back was done for the day, so will try it tomorrow and see if I helped it any

 

 

 

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Sounding good , like your moving in the right direction ----------  before you try out your carb adjustment tomorrow , take the plug out and clean it well , that way after your ride it , you can check the plug again and see if it is lean or rich ----- what did you set the air mix at when it was off the engine ?  -- 2 1/2 turns usually gets me in the ball park 

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Tuning carb takes awhile to learn.

setting pilot screw easy.

synchronizing the Idle adjustment and throttle cable to the butterfly is the harder part. 

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