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Goober

08 Foreman TRX500FPM2A Service

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My friend had a Foreman on his farm and asked me to fix a couple things on it for him. He’s got the COVID but hauled it into town and went back to the farm. I picked it up yesterday—bad battery but it started with some ether.

 

08 Foreman foot shift and power steering—camo. 3000 miles. newest quad I’ve ever serviced.i need to download the service manual.

 

This quad is Dirty! Air filter was caked. Washed everything down with commercial Dawn and water—including the crankcase and carb breather. Oiled the filters. Drained all fuel—tank is clean. Changed oil and filter. Needs tires and a choke cable. 

 

Cool! It has a carburetor!
going to check the valves later this week.


any suggestions or words of wisdom?

 

 

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Edited by Goober
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I never heard of commercial Dawn before. It must be good cause Dawn is good.  
 

I can see that Atv looks.  I would check and change the differentials oils if needed.  Maybe spray some liquid grease in the upper steering bushing. Check the valve and clutch adjustment. spray the foot brake lever pivot point.  If you have a grease needle , I would shoot some grease into the ball joints and tie rod ends boots. 

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Thanks Fishfiles, i will do all those things. Dude this model may be my next ATV—except for the TV on the top of the handlebar, LOLs 
 

That detergent is called Dawn Professional—it’s a little thicker than regular Dawn—sell it at Sams. That air filter was caked with dirt and engine oil—didn’t think I’d get it clean.
 

i will change the punkin lube with BelRay 80W-90 hypoid if they still sell it at the Honda shop. Otherwise I’ll just buy Honda lube. I have a special oil pump can i use.

 

i bought a service manual for it $65 wow they are hard to find

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14 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

@Goober good job on cleaning it up! if it needs tires , id also check the brakes, and c-v boots.... 

thanks Wilson 

The brakes are very weak so yeah fresh brake fluid and adjust shoes

tried to get my motorcycle lift under it but the footwells make it SO wide cant get it under there! guess I’ll have to remove the Footwell and Plastic belly guard—don’t wanna break them.

 

this is after i washed it 3x!!!

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Edited by Goober
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what's up with the tires ? being it was used on the farm, my guess would be thorn holes ? i don't know  much about that type,  but the tread looks okay ...  and from the pic i don't see any dry cracking ... 

Edited by _Wilson_™
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Yup all of them have cracking in the treads — none in sidewall—the RF has a sidewall cut. Ima recommend Mud Lite AT; haven’t seen a bunch of cactus on his place or I’d recommend Kenda Bear Claws.

Edited by Goober
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Looks like them plastics are color molded with the camo and not a wrap , my neighbor has a 2016'ish 500 dessert looking camo and his is a wrap and starting to peel here and there 

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7 hours ago, Goober said:

Yup all of them have cracking in the treads — none in sidewall—the RF has a sidewall cut. Ima recommend Mud Lite AT; haven’t seen a bunch of cactus on his place or I’d recommend Kenda Bear Claws.

 

oh, okay i can't make those cracks out in the pics.... plus one on the mud lite AT, any big price defrence between the  at, and Kenda ? I'

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On 9/23/2020 at 8:28 AM, Fishfiles said:

Looks like them plastics are color molded with the camo and not a wrap , my neighbor has a 2016'ish 500 dessert looking camo and his is a wrap and starting to peel here and there 

Nope, it comes off with time, sunlight, or a pressure washer.  The older ones do look good with no camo on them though.  Tan underneath.

 

Looks like you're doing good work on that one @Goober!

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Thanks Jeep

i bought a service manual for it today and started combing over it. Front brake pads are good but fluid is brown and murky; flushing it with fresh fluid. Dang this thing is too wide for me to bleed the left front by myself LOLs 

love the look of this SRA, front disk brakes, foot shift and carb. Yeah the camo isnt a wrap but i bet my friend kept it in his barn—i better cover it.

 

a thing i like to do. Take some bright red paint and highlight the little brake wear indicator arrows

Edited by Goober

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i thought he might talking about the indicater on the rear brake panel, and pointer on the brake cable arm. 

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kind of like this .. 300 rear brake panel. 

 

 

 

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Edited by _Wilson_™
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Well the tire that’s plugged is losing air and the tire that was flat has cuts in the sidewall. They all look pretty worn whattaya outlaws think?

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15 minutes ago, Goober said:

Well the tire that’s plugged is losing air and the tire that was flat has cuts in the sidewall. They all look pretty worn whattaya outlaws think?

 

 

 

Look like they either need to be put out-to-pasture or filled with slime...

If you are looking for a reasonably priced replacement I have great experience with WANDA brand from Libra Trailer Parts

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Thanks they looked bad for a guy who’s 150 miles from town. I’m gonna put new Mud Lite AT on em

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Ok i got the valves set to .006 in (.15)

both valves were very tight, is that typical after 3000 miles with no service?


i def have it wrong

im going to rotate the engine around a few times and reset the valves .

 

is there and easier way to rotate this engine without using the pull start?

Edited by Goober
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6 minutes ago, Goober said:

Ok i got the valves set to .006 in (.15)

both valves were very tight, is that typical after 3000 miles with no service?

 

im going to rotate the engine around a few times and recheck the settings.

 

is there and easier way to rotate this engine without using the pull start?

 

Not sure about this model without looking but can you take off the center cover over the flywheel area and spin it with a ratchet?

Would be two caps... one to spin and one to see the timing mark

 

Make sure you are adjusting on the compression stroke's TDC if you aren't already.

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It’s an 08 TRX500FPM — no flywheel cover that i can see. Do i need to remove the pull start maybe?

i got it nearly lined up and then the piston drops—pulls it off the mark

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Ok i got it now. I pulled it over until i saw the intake valve start to close then teeny tiny pulls til i saw the F come around and then got the T dead on

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Edited by Goober
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@Goober [auote]Well the tire that’s plugged is losing air and the tire that was flat has cuts in the sidewall. They all look pretty worn whattaya outlaws think?[/quote] 

 

with three holding air ... and they still look to  have fair tread .... I'd ask the owner if he would like them as a spairs ... or maybe just shelf them.... i have a side wall cut on my 97 right rear carlisle tire ... and green slime solved that issue .. being its used on the farm .... you can never tell when you can slice a tire open... to a point it can't be patched ... unless you have a familiar trail you ride frequently 

 

Imo, good choice on the Mud Lites 

Edited by _Wilson_™
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Does anyone put any lubrication or antiseize on the wheel studs?

 

the service manual doesn’t say, but I’ve heard people say”don’t do it.” While I can see it might affect the applied torque.

Edited by Goober
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4 minutes ago, Goober said:

Does anyone put any lubrication or antiseize on the wheel studs?

 

Honestly don't know if this is good or bad but I always clean with a towel and some WD.

My thought is to prevent corrosion and getting the nut to sufficient torque does the work of holding things together.

 

Never had one fall off (or had a customer report their wheel coming loose) and WD can help with some light rust.

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@Goober I've used it on many applications .... if the nuts came off all the way hard, then yes a slight brush .. of anti seize wouldn't hurt, if they came easy after breaking loose ... i wouldn't worry about it. 

Edited by _Wilson_™
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