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oh400ex

Light Restoration | 2005 Foreman 500

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Hello again everyone!

 

I have a 2005 Foreman 500 foot shift on the healing bench for my buddy.

He just bought it for $1300 US as a non-running bike and was pulled from the weeds in field fresh condition!

 

Previous owner described the issue as water in the carburetor and it had some sort of impact on the front.

 

After pulling everything apart we have confirmed spark, compression and the carburetor has been in the ultrasonic.

Tomorrow I'll be changing the oil and taking it for a first flight. I'm going to give it the light go over after getting back to running shape.

 

He got an amazing deal if you ask me.

Motor looks and sounds strong.

All body panels are there and it still has most of the original parts.

 

Thank you for looking!

 

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Edited by oh400ex
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Not bad at all!

 

New grips are about $2 each, that nose cone is $7ish if you get an 09 model (same part).

 

I use kentskovers on ebay for seat covers.  $20 shipped, install easily with a staple gun.

 

Before you buy any parts for it, look at all the years 05-11.  In some cases, there will be a different part number and one or the other will be a lot cheaper (like the nose cone) but are the same part.

 

06 part, $13  81170-HP0-A00ZA

 

09 part, $7   81170-HN2-B70ZA

 

Same part. 

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Nice find!

Dont forget that 1st gear was kind of a factory defect on these thru 07? I think , 1st gear would tend wear out and then pop out of gear and grind

Honda made an upgraded 1st gear kit for 55-65 dollars that has 6 vs 4 dogs and is a bit beefier-I think,  I got my last one thru Honda East Toledo, I believe

Not sure if you going to tear the engine down, I always do just to be sure it wasnt sunk etc.. but you do  have to split the cases to put the new kit in

Either way, congrats on a nice machine for the price and I am sure it will last a long time once you are done fixing it up

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She's a runner!

8k miles 😅

 

The engine sounded bad when we first fired it due to the valves being severely loose.

 

I'm not sure what actually happened to get it in that shape...

 

IME the valves would be super tight on a motor this old that had not been serviced correctly and seeing them loose was a surprise.

Maybe someone serviced it incorrectly before it was parked?

After adjusting the valves at first with a feeler gauge and failing I realized again that is not the way to do it for me.

The way I can do it is by feeling.

 

Thank you very much for the info gentleman!

 

The first gear issue may be avoided as it seems fine.

Will need a set of clutches and whatever else that entails as I adjusted them to the point where it shifts ok but is out-of-spec.

This is not my bike and the idea of splitting the cases alone raises the owner's heart rate lol 

I wish for a fly-on-the-wall view of his face! The transition from when I fired it up and the valves were so bad to after it sounded perfect was priceless. He sweat for the whole valve job 😂

 

Thank you for looking!

 

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Edited by oh400ex
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Questions for you guys...

 

What is your experience with the clutches on a Foreman 500?

 

I'm looking at replacing with OEM clutch discs (22201-ML4-610) and plates (22321-HN0-670) along with the the "weight set" (22535-HP0-305) and its springs (22451-HP0-A00) 

Also will need the gasket and am unsure of the "weight set"

That is the contact surface part for the centrifical(centrifugal) clutch right?

 

Not stuck on those part numbers as they haven't been put through Jeep's method of cheaper parts by the year and those are just the matching year model numbers.

Read about spring kits and aftermarket clutch kits for this bike... thoughts? @shadetree 🙂

 

What has(or will be) done...

Carburetor cleaned and gaskets replaced

New spark plug, air filter, oil filter and oil. Also new gear oil front and rear

Spark arrestor and muffler removed, cleaned and reinstalled.

Replaced lower steering stem bushing. Cleaned the upper bushing, greased and reinstalled

Replace anything with damaged rubber (tie rod ends, etc)

Cosmetic fixes

 

Going to have about 5 changes of oil and 2 filters before it gets 100 miles on it so no worries there 🤣

 

What other parts / service do I need? What else should I do?

 

On 9/29/2020 at 9:03 PM, oh400ex said:

IME the valves would be super tight on a motor this old that had not been serviced correctly and seeing them loose was a surprise.

Maybe someone serviced it incorrectly before it was parked?

 

 

What is your thoughts on what I observed here? Was I wrong expecting the valves to be tight?

 

Thank you for looking and for sharing in advance!

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24 minutes ago, Goober said:

How many miles on this project?

 

~8300

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Posted (edited)

hard to see rocker or cam wear but maybe the PO tried to set the valves on the wrong TDC—they would be about 3 turns loose on the correct one😂
 

I would lube all the cables, levers, reverse button, seat latch

shocks not squeaky or sign of leak?

 

change brake fluid

Edited by Goober
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Just now, Goober said:

hard to see rocker or cam wear but maybe the PO tried to set the valves on the wrong TDC—they would be about 3 turns loose on the correct one😂
 

I would lube all the cables, levers, reverse button, seat latch

shocks not squeaky or sign of leak?

 

Thank you for the response!

 

Not sure what they did but glad to see its not just my head itching about it.

 

Great tip on the cable lubing! Forgot to mention but that is needed for a bike this old.

I use "cable life" and its cable lube tool for spraying inside the cable jacket.

 

Rear shock is squeaky but sat outside for a long time and doesn't seem to leak.

There is a leak on the oil drain plug but that likely just needs a new crush seal.

 

Front brake master cylinder was locked up tight so I might end up having to replace the front calipers too. 

 

I'm concerned about wear on the timing chain, drivetrain bearings and more but only time will tell. Engine sounds great after adjustment. Really good.

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Posted (edited)

How do you check cam chain wear on these?

how’s that carb primer plunger and SE valve look?

he could also remove all three skid plates pretty easy and clean them out. If mud-packed could lead to frame corrosion 

 

i also removed, cleaned and lubed the petcock lever and exterior of petcock 

Edited by Goober
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Posted (edited)
10 minutes ago, Goober said:

How do you check cam chain wear on these?

how’s that carb primer plunger and SE valve look?

he could also remove all three skid plates pretty easy and clean them out. If mud-packed could lead to frame corrosion 

 

i also removed, cleaned and lubed the petcock lever and exterior of petcock 

 

On the cam chain I am sure there is a proper procedure but short answer for me is sound.

If it makes noise with the auto adjuster there is a problem. It sounds great but old chains tend to stretch after they get revived and on a 400ex there is no way I would run this bike again without changing the cam chain. Utility bikes are different beasts. Leaving it alone for now.

 

Carb was in surprisingly good shape.

Came very clean in the ultrasonic and the bike runs amazing.

Sticky float... have had to tap the side a few time but a rebuild kit and a bit more attention to cleaning the seats is going to fix that.

 

Definitely going to take off the skids and remove as much rust as possible from the bottom of the frame (etc)

 

Usually use a rust converting paint and mask behind with cardboard.

I don't spend too much time if it is not my machine but accomplish the main objective of hitting the high spots cosmetically and preventing rust.

 

Will do as much taking you all through the process as possible but i'm working at my buddy's shop.

 

Thank you again for your response!

 

Edit: New petcock assembly as there was more rust on the on/res tube and the screen was gone. Surprisingly did not leak.

Edited by oh400ex

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Good then you already checked for dirt/rust in tank and outlet screen. That’s pretty easy with this model. 

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15 hours ago, oh400ex said:

Questions for you guys...

 

What is your experience with the clutches on a Foreman 500?

 

I'm looking at replacing with OEM clutch discs (22201-ML4-610) and plates (22321-HN0-670) along with the the "weight set" (22535-HP0-305) and its springs (22451-HP0-A00) 

Also will need the gasket and am unsure of the "weight set"

That is the contact surface part for the centrifical(centrifugal) clutch right?

 

Not stuck on those part numbers as they haven't been put through Jeep's method of cheaper parts by the year and those are just the matching year model numbers.

Read about spring kits and aftermarket clutch kits for this bike... thoughts? @shadetree 🙂

 

What has(or will be) done...

Carburetor cleaned and gaskets replaced

New spark plug, air filter, oil filter and oil. Also new gear oil front and rear

Spark arrestor and muffler removed, cleaned and reinstalled.

Replaced lower steering stem bushing. Cleaned the upper bushing, greased and reinstalled

Replace anything with damaged rubber (tie rod ends, etc)

Cosmetic fixes

 

Going to have about 5 changes of oil and 2 filters before it gets 100 miles on it so no worries there 🤣

 

What other parts / service do I need? What else should I do?

 

 

What is your thoughts on what I observed here? Was I wrong expecting the valves to be tight?

 

Thank you for looking and for sharing in advance!

 

I haven't had to replace clutches on any of these.  I've had to replace the centrifugal clutch drum and shoes on 2 420's, but on these air cooled 500's they've always been fine.  If you do need to replace I'd go OEM. 

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5 hours ago, Goober said:

Good then you already checked for dirt/rust in tank and outlet screen. That’s pretty easy with this model. 

plastic tank, should not be any rust in the tank.

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word from the wise, stick with oem clutch parts. second: if i were you ?, i would deff replace the first gear set !!!. don't say i did not warn you !!!.

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1 hour ago, shadetree said:

plastic tank, should not be any rust in the tank.

 

On the Foreman 500s the only thing to worry about is the petcock tube and the steel stem on the gas gauge float.

They both flake rust into the gas though and the tube flakes it on the inside of the screen lol

 

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

word from the wise, stick with oem clutch parts. second: if i were you ?, i would deff replace the first gear set !!!. don't say i did not warn you !!!.

 

I would do it but the owner calls the shots and he will not want to split the cases unless absolutely needed.

The bike has 8300 miles. It may have already been done. The original owner would have taken it back to Honda if there was ever a recall.

OEM clutches all the way. Got 8k out of the first set...

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1 minute ago, oh400ex said:

 

On the Foreman 500s the only thing to worry about is the petcock tube and the steel stem on the gas gauge float.

They both flake rust into the gas though and the tube flakes it on the inside of the screen lol

 

 

I would do it but the owner calls the shots and he will not want to split the cases unless absolutely needed.

The bike has 8300 miles. It may have already been done. The original owner would have taken it back to Honda if there was ever a recall.

OEM clutches all the way. Got 8k out of the first set...

honda did not have a recall on these models that i know of ??. once you shift to 1st gear, and give it throttle..he'll know real quick like if 1st gear is bad ?!..lol.

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of i can ever remember ?, i'll take some pics of the 1st gear set, and show ya what damage looks like, i split the trx500tm today, and sure enough, just as i figured, 1st gear set was trashed !..lol

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and for the record..1st gear set ALSO operates reverse !..lol.

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1 minute ago, shadetree said:

and for the record..1st gear set ALSO operates reverse !..lol.

 

This is an incredibly important point. Thank you for that!

 

I would love to see the pictures if you can dig them up.

My hope is that it is ok. I have put the bike though a few paces to test things and it seems rock solid.


To test the 4WD being engaged I put the bike in reverse and climbed a bank backwards. The forward in first and reverse feel great and certainly nothing outside of the ordinary.

 

It was not used and abused but ridden a lot. The previous owner was the original and used this bike to check his cows and for his teenage daughters to ride.

That is how the front end got damaged. I bet Jeep knows a bit about that... lol

 

Fingers crossed on the 1st gear but whatever happens with it... I am ready for it.

The owner also is coming around to the idea that it would be worth engine work when/if the time came.

 

Thanks again!

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, shadetree said:

plastic tank, should not be any rust in the tank.

Yep the only metal i saw in the tank was that petcock screen—must be brass?

 

oh i see more on that above now.

Edited by Goober
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12 hours ago, oh400ex said:

 

This is an incredibly important point. Thank you for that!

 

I would love to see the pictures if you can dig them up.

My hope is that it is ok. I have put the bike though a few paces to test things and it seems rock solid.


To test the 4WD being engaged I put the bike in reverse and climbed a bank backwards. The forward in first and reverse feel great and certainly nothing outside of the ordinary.

 

It was not used and abused but ridden a lot. The previous owner was the original and used this bike to check his cows and for his teenage daughters to ride.

That is how the front end got damaged. I bet Jeep knows a bit about that... lol

 

Fingers crossed on the 1st gear but whatever happens with it... I am ready for it.

The owner also is coming around to the idea that it would be worth engine work when/if the time came.

 

Thanks again!

ASK..and you shall receive !. i really don't care if ya fix it or not ?, but i'd hate to see you back on here in a few days, trying to explain to us in yet another thread !!..as to why you did not fix this when you had the chance ??!!..rofl.

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15 hours ago, oh400ex said:

 

It was not used and abused but ridden a lot. The previous owner was the original and used this bike to check his cows and for his teenage daughters to ride.

 

1st gear held up fine if you didn't abuse the wheeler.  MOST of us (including me) abuse them.  I'd run it till you need to replace it.  I've seen some high mileage rigs with the stock gear in them that are fine.

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6 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

1st gear held up fine if you didn't abuse the wheeler.  MOST of us (including me) abuse them.  I'd run it till you need to replace it.  I've seen some high mileage rigs with the stock gear in them that are fine.

from the looks of it ^^^ ?, it was abused at one point...lol.

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7 hours ago, shadetree said:

from the looks of it ^^^ ?, it was abused at one point...lol.

 

I doubt that damage happened anywhere near 1st gear...

 

I know the original owner well and he is not the type to abuse it but would ride it for a long time (hence the mileage). I will say from what I see there is no issue but I am no expert in the Foreman model. Cut my teeth on the 300s

 

 What'd I miss?

 

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