shadetree

of course..the most high dollar part there is..lol ( unless you buy used anyway )..lol.

advice is free...parts are not !..lol. first off, complete engine gasket kit. tube of yamabond ( for where there is no gaskets ONLY ! ). all engine oil seals, D.I.D. cam chain is what i install in all my builds. 3 qrts of atv oil, oil filter, spark plug. air filter. only spec tools you will need: valve spring compressor ( if you do not have one ? ). flywheel puller, centrifugal clutch puller tool. a seal puller ( but not really needed, but works easier than prying seals out with a screwdriver ). service manual for sure !!. have your camera ( cell phone ) on hand to take lots and lots of tear down pics, before, during, after. this way, if you get stumped?, you can always go back, look at pics to see where that thrust washer goes ?..lol. if it were me ? ( i know its not..lol )..i would replace the main crank bearings while you have it torn down, yes..its extra money, but i would do this now, and be worry free for a few more yrs !. a good metric socket set, brass hammer, pry bars, air compressor, air impact gun ( 1/2 ), deep impact sockets, you will need 27mm, 24mm, 22mm, here and there. you can never have enough impact sockets !. some cases, you will need a 30mm, 29mm, 28mm. these come in handy for the hub nuts. not needed, but handy..A PARTS WASHER !. this comes in very handy to rinse out the cases once you get it all part, yes..i go that extra mile when i build my engines. if you get stumped ?, we are always here to help !, myself..i also do phone support..lol.

you do know...they also sell a centrifugal clutch puller tool...right ?..lol. i use a large bolt, fine threads to pull my flywheels, then i use the correct clutch puller tool. some are larger than others.

lol...2001 trx350 rancher..not sure if its manual shift or es though ?..but deff a '01 350 rancher.

yeah..hard pass.

a pic is worth a thousand words, post a pic, then we can tell you what you have.

yes, oil seal right there on front cover where the final shaft comes through. you do not have to pull the engine to replace this seal ?..but..you do have to pull engine, split it, in order to replace the final shaft.

glad ya got it solved !. most atv's here in tthe states are made lean from the factory, we can thank the epa for this..lol.

little tip: the trx400fm and the early trx450S ( '98-'01 trx450S ) , both use the same front differentials.

solution ?..yeah...but it back to all stock ?..lol. i don't mess with all that fancy crap, all it does is give you trouble !, ( as you are finding out ). there is not one thing that is going to make a utility atv go faster, not even all those after market parts you put on it. other than this info ?, i have no idea ?, as said..i do not waste my time with after market gimics.

yes, the sensor where you adjusted the connection, that is where the speed sensor is. as stated, be sure to check the pinion collar splines for being stripped ?.

front final shaft is shot, time to replace. may as well open up the front diff, have a look at the ring gear, and all the bearings. keep in mind, you should replace all 3 oil seals while you are rebuilding it. word of caution !, the final shaft, in order to replace it ?, the engine has to come out, engine split in order to replace the final shaft. replace that oil seal right there in the front cover also.

welcome...what...you don't like the million mile marker ?..rofl. yes..honda came out with some kinda gadget, never seen it or used it ?..that kills the power to the meter...as the meter drains the battery. i'm not sure how it does it with the key off ?..but it does do it.

won't hurt to check the gas cap ?!..lol...lots of folks leave the knob on top of the gas cap in the off position. if its off ?..fuel won't vent to the carb. if ya get the old oem carb back ?, pull the top off (4 screws ) check the rubber piece under it for any holes/tears ?. if ya can get it to idle ?, take a can of propane ( DO NOT LIGHT IT ! )..just get some gas around the intake boot...if it idles up when you do this ?..you have a cracked, or not sealing intake boot. dirty air filter ?, clogged oem snorkel ?.

haha..you know where i live, bring the cylinders and pistons you bought for them, and that over size you said you were gonna get for that trx500fm..and i can do them while you wait, oh...and bring lots of cash !..rofl.

yeah..remove the air box and carb, will make it tons easier to get the stator cover off. hopefully you removed the pull starter cage ?..lol. MAKE SURE YOU GOT EVERY BOLT OUT BEFORE YOU GO TAPPING ON THAT COVER TO REMOVE IT !..check it a millon times if ya have too ??!!. there is always a hidden bolt hiding..lol.

there is also a one-way bearing behind the centrifugal clutch, so you have one in front, and one in the back behind the flywheel. most times engine braking is controlled by the centrifugal clutch one-way bearing. i do not know if they still sell heads for your make/model ?, you can look it up on rmatv, or check power sports nation for a used head ?, they stand behind used parts.

if its making a rattle noise when engine braking ?, this tells me one of the one-way bearings may be bad ?..they wear out over time. as for the bad valve guide ?, you can not tell if its bad just by looking at it ?..it does not show !. i ran across this yrs ago with a trx350 rancher, early model. they left the factory with defective heads is why. the valve guides would be tight on a cold engine, but once started, ran for a few min's..i could blip the throttle, and hear a rattle noise. finding another head was the only fix..no machine shop can solve this..as the head is made for a press fit for the valve guides.

trust me, you will not get into it, without destroying it..lol. they are filled with an epoxy resin, and this resin is not very kind...lol.

most times when this happens, one of the speed sensors goes bad on the front diff. there are two of them on the front diff, one is right where the front drive shaft enters the front diff, and the other is located in the front, top side of the diff. if this is not the issue ?, then the 4wd unit ( control unit ) is bad.

As some of ya'll know, i've came into a couple golden machines ?!. i call them big john, and little john. they are a kwik-way boring bar machines. they are very very old and very very rare to find them , let alone that works ?!. ok..little john works, but needs some shadetree touch to it ?..lol. big john does very well !. i had to bore out a cylinder that came on this stupid trx300ex to a 74.45mm piston. i did get it bored out with the old cutter that came with it, but i did break down and purchase two new cutting tips to go into the holders. one is a rough cut, the other is a fine cut. with some practice, i'll get to make some cash on the side from doing bor jobs, sounds boring eh ?..lol. really though...its getting harder and harder to locate folks that can bore cylinders, let alone cheap, and fast ?. i will not be sending my cylinders out any longer to get bored out. here is a pic of big john, and little john i took today when i was working on this trx300ex.

man..you must really love these 500's to go through this much trouble !!..lol. i'm sooo glad i don't work on those 500's anymore...spec the stupid es models !..lol.

sounds like a rod knock too me.

ok...how much money do you have on hand ?, i ask for the simple reason: if you end up doing more damage to it from this ride ?, its going to cost you a lot more money to fix all the extra parts you may end up doing.

lol...and ,mine would be the '03...lol. its cool though..i got a couple spares on stand by.