shadetree

china junk ^^ !.

salvage atv yard, such as power sports nation may have a fan control unit ?. as for amazon parts ?..they are nothing but china junk...PURE JUNK !!. do not waste your money and time with them. if the fan comes on when the key is on ?, then either the fan control unit is bad ?, or they wired the fan to come on all the time when key is on ?. deff should replace the fan control unit and oil temp sensor. the oil temp sensor controls the fan control unit. start by replacing the oil temp sensor. bottom right hand side, behind the metal plate. you can lift the right side up a good ways, and be able to get the sensor out without having to drain the oil. DO NOT ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE SENSOR WHILE ATV IS SITTING FLAT !!, YOU WILL HAVE A OIL MESS FAST !..LOL. pay attention to the sealing washer that must be on the oil temp sensor when replacing sensor.

first off, the fan must get REALLY HOT before it kicks on. if it will not come on at all ?, this either means the fan control unit is bad ?, or the oil temp sensor is bad ?. or...the fan itself is bad ?. you can test the fan by hooking a 12 volt battery straight to the fan to see if it runs ?. as for the oil light coming on, then going off ?, this is how they work. as for the c.d.i. where did you buy a c.d.i. for it ?, as they are discontinued today, so this tells me you got it from ebay or amazon, and both are chINA junk for one, and for two, most sellers have no clue what they are selling you, cuz they will '' claim '' it works on all years from '86-'89...AND THEY DON'T !. '' most '' trx350D's won't fire the spark plug if the fan control stops working. sooo..you need to sort out the fan control first before you go chasing a spark issue. hopefully you still have the old c.d.i. that you removed from it ?.

yeah..those old 250r's are very rare today, you do not see many of them around.

and you should just bite me !..rofl.

answer: take some 220 sand paper, wd-40, lightly !!..sand back and forth over the vin number plate, all you are doing is taking the top coat off the metal. there is 17 digits in the vin number. once you get the top coat of rust/crud off the top of the plate ?, use a magnifier to read the vin number. this '' should '' let you get the number off the plate, i've done this many times on very bad , rusted vin number plates.

your welcome. those trx420's are not too bad ?..spec if they are manual shifts..but they do have known issues that pop up from time to time. almost every trx420fm i have worked on or seen ?, the crank rod always fails. other than this, and a few small issues ?.they are ok. as for a newer foreman ?..yeah...just no..no new atv is made like they were 20-30 yrs ago. save your cash, invest into an old dog that needs another life, easier on the wallet.

was out at my buds place today, stumbled ( and i mean i tripped over it for real ! ) an old atc250R lower engine ( its red..lol ). its just the lower engine part, i know it from heart its a atc250R engine, and i also know these baby's are very very rare today !. i should have taken some pics ?, but i did not have time to drag it out, and snap some pics...too busy messing with this trx300ex junk in my shop. if anyone has an interest in this 250r lower ?, give me a holler, i'll get some pics posted when i can find some time ( yeah..like that will happen ! ).

welcome to the forums, what ya ride right now ?. if it needs work ?, be sure to post a thread in the correct section, and someone will be along to lend a few words of wisdom.

if you are asking if the cam is ok ?, i can't tell by this pic ^^. but i can tell you, left side is lobe side, right side is bottom of cam lobe, not where the rockers ride.

if you are worried about stripping the bolts out ?..or worse..snapping them off ?..grab yourself a hammer impact driver, 1/2 is best, slap a socket on it, use a hammer while twisting , smack it loose, this works well for stuck bolts as well as stuck nuts.

mines hydro as well, thats the part i had to fix !..and it was rough pulling it part by myself..but i did it. and yes..i am by myself as well when busting tire beads down. i do not use a board, i simply drive straight at the tire, then get my truck tire next to the rim center, then turn my truck tire around the center rim bead, pops the bead every time. maybe you need a chevy tire ?..lol.

while rocking atv...push the foot lever down..keep pushing the foot lever down..until you can roll the atv back and forth with ease ?..this will be neutral.

it wont roll forward while in gear.

ok, first off..the engine does not have to run in order to shift through all the gears !, you can ( or should be able too ! ) shift through all 5 forward gears, and reverse with the engine not running. if you can not do this ?, then this tells me you have issues going on with either the shift drum ?, or the ratchet paw area behind the front cover ?. DO NOT MESS WITH THE CLUTCH ADJUSTMENT FOR NOW !!!. you can remove the front cover, i do not remember if the front cover can be pulled without the front drive shaft being moved out of the way ?, its been a min sense i worked on one..lol. if you can get the front cover off without removing the front drive shaft ?..then pull the front cover. ( make sure you have an oem gasket on hand to replace the gasket that you will tear up when doing this ! ) if you do not want to drain the oil ?..you can however get the front end up pretty high, and still get the front cover off without losing oil. if you plan on replacing the engine oil anyway , with a new oil filter ?, just drain the oil then. once the front cover is off, you will need to inspect the lower right hand side ( you..at front...facing engine ), down on right hand lower side is the shifting parts you are after, there is a few parts right there that you need to get too. sometimes you can get to them without removing the change clutch ? ( clutch basket ), other times...this change clutch must come out in order to get to the shifting parts right there. i would pull the change clutch if it were me doing this. chances are anyway..those friction disk are worn out ?, now would be a great time to replace them !. If you do not see any bad parts with the shift parts right there ? ( service manual is a life savor ! )..then the worse has came to light...you will need to pull the engine, split the engine..and have a peek inside the engine to see what is wrong with the shift drum, and all those parts that make it shift gears. YES..I KNOW YOU DID NOT WANT TO HEAR THIS !!..but the real deal is...THIS MUST BE DONE !. if you have to go this route ?, then be warned, now is a good time to get a whole complete engine gasket kit, this means all gaskets, all oil seals, a D.I.D. cam chain. now yer gonna say '' why do i need all this '' ?..simple..YOU ARE TEARING IT ALL THE WAY DOWN..NOW IS THE TIME TO GIVE IT ANOTHER 30 PLUS YRS TO RUN !. last but not least, you say you are not an atv mechanic ?..well guess what bro ?,,30 plus yrs ago..NEITHER WAS I !!..LOL. we all have to learn..and hands on learning is priceless !. i've been where you are right now, i've been down that road..many..many times, hrs, days, weeks, months, yrs. never once seen a class room to learn this trade. you either save money, do it yourself ?..or..you pay someone else to make money to fix something you can do yourself..IF YOU PUT YOUR MIND TO IT !..JUST ASK BCS, he was just like you, but as of right now..with our help on here..he now knows how to work on them !.

as for breaking down tire beads ?..lol..well..i've been doing this for many yrs. i always use my front tire on my truck. i will drive my truck tire up onto the tire..then carefully mind you !..work the front tire right next to the wheel bead, all i need to do is get a gap ( i noticed you had this gap when you had the board on the bead with your truck tire )..once you get a gap ?, spray some wd-40 ( this is my go-2 lube )..into the gap...or..you can use some dawn liquid soap in the gap. the trick is keep spinning the wheel..each and every time i drive my truck tire up to the wheel bead..all while working the truck tire right next to the wheel bead. i back off..spin wheel..drive back on. this has worked for me many times. the worst time i ever had was breaking down the oem tires on my '89 trx350D way back when i first restored it...took me about 1 1/2 hrs on each rim to get the bead broke down !. mind you..these were the oem tires that were on it from the time it left the factory, and never have been replaced, they were soooo rusted on the rim bead...is why it took me so long to get the bead broke down. if the rim lip is bent ? ( like i see in your last pic ) clamp some vise grips on the bent part, simply pull the bend back out. when re-mounting tires back on the wheel ?, grease both sides of the tire bead, as well as grease the wheel bead from about 2 inches from the lip..inwards, this makes it sooo much easier for the tire bead to expand ?, AND...THE GREASE WILL MAKE IT EASIER FOR THE TIRE TO NOT ONLY SEAT THE BEAD ?..BUT ALSO KEEP IT FROM RUSTING IN THE FUTURE !. 30 plus yrs of doing this kinda work...i've learned a few tricks of the trade to make my work easier.

i see my brother's tractor in the background ?!..lol..i've got the b2100 model, brought it back from the dead all on my own, never worked on them until a couple yrs back, that auto tranny cost a good penny in parts !!. some jb weld, some sanding, long hrs !!..and it runs and drives..love it.

not sure if its been asked ?, where are you located ?, if yer close to arkansas ?, load that puppy up, bring it to me, i'll fix it, you will have to pay for parts if and when needed ?, but i will not charge you labor !.

do not buy from partzilla !!..their prices are too high !..buy from rocky mountain atv !

i'd like to see the package..i dont trust anything on ebay... read further down in ad..it clearly says reproduction !..lol.

time wise ?..it would be better ( to me anyway ) to just replace the wire harness.

this is after market gasket,,,made in china...lol.

before you go removing the front cover ?..THERE IS NOTHING BEHIND THE FRONT COVER THAT IS STOPPING IT FROM SHIFTING THROUGH THE GEARS AS FAR AS THE CLUTCH GOES !. you can down load the service manual for your atv from the site here for free.

yeah, just did a quick search on ebay, no std rings, couple over size though. even checked my honey hole web site, they had 3rd size over rings.

the reverse lever at back of motor should move about 1/2-5/8 in order to shift to reverse. you got the right plan on how to adjust the clutch, BUT !!..this has no effect on why it won't shift through all gears !