shadetree

ok, now take the ecm, and angle sensor, and install them on the 2001 atv, does it still shift ?, if it does not ?, then one of these parts is bad !.

my money is on a bad wire harness.

yes !!!, always replace any and all oil seals when you tear an engine down, as jeep said ^^, this is the time to do it !.

10 - 1 the oil drain bolt has been stripped !. big flaw on the 500's, least on manual shifts

i said..BRAND NEW..not '05..besides, i've slept sense then..lol. and ty !.

update: here she is.all done for now, enjoy !.

don't know ?, i've never owned a brand new atv !..lol.

update: got all my new tires and rims in yesterday, took me about 15 mins to mount all tires on the rims. i need to get a few small parts all back on her, then maybe roll her out of the shop, give her a good pressure washing. i will post some pics here soon.

the PO did not mount them right, the calipers should be mounted on the rear of the rotors. flip the brackets, MAKE SURE THE CALIPERS HAVE THE BLEED VALVES ON THE TOP OF THE CALIPERS !. this may require you to switch sides when flipping them to the rear of the rotors, and this means bleeding them again. i had installed a few of these kits, and in the instructions ( if you read them !..lol ) tells you to mount the calipers on the rear side of the rotors.

calipers mount on the back side of the rotors, think of it like this , which side of the rotors on cars/trucks are they mounted ?. rear !.

yep, sounds like buttons are good.

i agree, i have seen many brand new parts, spec angle sensors !, be bad from the factory.

a good 12 volt dc test light, time to start tracing power back from buttons. as for the shift motor, unhook it from the harness, hook 12 volts from a good battery straight to the motor, if the motor is good ?, it will spin when you connect 12 volts to it.

would like to point out, 18 months ago when new parts were installed ( if they were indeed from honda ? ) , alot can happen in 18 months !.

top of this thread, click the link that reads service manuals .

have you checked all the fuses ?, have you checked to make sure the shift motor is indeed good ?. are you getting power to either shift buttons at bars ?.

myself, i would just buy a new fan control unit, be done with it, i don't like '' hacking '' into my wire harness unless i am tapping into a hot lead to wire a mini rocker switch to operate a winch.

a keyed power source, as in, when you turn the key on, you have 12 volts, this would be rigged inline to fan to turn it on and off.

say hello to karma then !..lol.

you could, but why not just stay around the fan for power ?.

the way most folks do it, they run power from a power source, install an inline switch between it and the fan motor. myself ?, i leave everything stock. why are you wanting to install a fan switch ?, most times when the fan does not come on, its because of the oil temp sensor switch. when these sensor switches work right, they tell the fan to kick on.

i do hope you get to the bottom of this. when ever i take on a project ?, i don't take short cuts, or the PO's word for anything. i break that engine all the way down, completely go through it, i try my best to leave no stone unturned, all gaskets, cam chain, rod, cylinder , piston kit, oil seals, inspect the valves, everything, this way, when i put it back together, i will know it was done right, but we all do make mistakes...even me !..lol.

oh, and you can not SEE the valve seat problem, it only effects the noise once when warmed up, then the seat works lose out of the head that is pressed down into from the factory. once warmed up ?, the seat pops out, sits under the valve '' slapping '' is what i call it. once it cools back down, the seat remains in the head, then rinse and repeat.

one thing stands out here, at no time should you have to '' drive '' the wrist pin into the top of the rod, then again, i don't know what you are calling '' drive in '' ?. yes these are push rod engines, but the valves must be timed from the cam lobes, and this means the cam chain must be tight and correctly timed. i have rebuilt maybe 6 or 7 of these engine models, and to this day, i have never had an issue with knocking noises. i highly doubt that valve picture is a problem, very well looks like a casting flaw.

almost looks like a break inside there ?, i have never seen one break like this on any 450 i've rebuilt. are you 100% sure when you set the valves, you set them on compression stroke, and not the exhaust stroke ?. has the cam chain been replaced, and installed in time ?, everything MUST be installed, and timed !. if the top end was replaced, and they did not get the cam chain timed right ?, it will make this sound. only other time i've heard this sound was when i rebuilt a trx350fm rancher, found out the head had defective valve seats pressed into the head, they would work their way out once warmed up, and sit there and slap the valve seat and bottom side of the valve, but again, this was on a trx350fm rancher. you say you checked the rod, please explain how you did this to see if it was good ?, i do know they have bad rods in them, every trx450 i rebuilt had a bad rod either at the bottom at crank ?, or at the wrist pin end ?. was the oil pump inspected for the shaft end to idle crank gear slots, the oil pump is driven off this gear, and i have seen a few of them sheer the shaft off the oil pump. edit: i have no idea why my post quoted you twice ??..lol.