shadetree

yw :-). you are deff in great hands here !.

been doing it for 29 yrs bossdady, if myself and jeep can do it ?, then surely you can !. heck, even bcs did it, with our help of coruse..lol. once you get a few under yer belt ?, its all down hill from there !.

nice !, well done :-).

us ?..care ?..haha..no..really...we care you are here !..wb to our forums !.

i see you painted a ton of dents in that milk can ?..lol. tail gate looks great !.

lol, what..you had to learn how a carb works ?..just when i thought i'd seen it all ?!..lol.

no, but jeep forgot to tell you, you have to unbolt the front diff, pull it forward, , remove the drive shaft, then you can stand it up on its tail, and remove the front cover., or at least start with the transfer gear area, see if anything is messed up there ?, if not ?, then its time to pull front cover.

at the front of the motor, where the shift motor is, where the angle sensor is, there is a cover there, it has about 4-5 bolts holding it to the front cover. under this cover is your electric shifting transfer gears, as well as most of the parts fish posted ^^. you need to look in the service manual for this machine, it will show you where everything is located, and give you an idea how everything operates.

use heat, map gas, yellow bottles.

when you run across something like this ?, the only true way to find out what the problem is, IS TEARING INTO IT !. you must know how these machines operate, until then ?, you are just tossing money and time into the wind. if it won't shift with the manual shift shaft , then this is a shift drum issue ?, shifting shaft issue ?, or gear dog issue ?. take the electric parts all the way out of this picture, now try to narrow down as to why it wont shift through all the gears.

if you have access to a shop press ?, i always use a small bar centered in the dip, and press them out. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE BACKING PLATE SUPPORTED FLAT UNDER THE PLATE !, then just press it out. DO NOT HAMMER ON IT !!!.

i can tell you right now, buying oem parts for these old girls is unheard of right now !. honda has done away with the oem c.d.i.'s even for my '89 trx350D !.

welcome to the forums Ian !.

ummm..i did not see 20 bucks in paypal ?..sooo..no..you failed..lol.

were all new parts oem from honda ??. all this jumnper wire crap needs to go !. ask yourself this..did it come from the factory with jumper wires on it ?..NO !..LOL. display MUST have a neutral light lit up on the display, or the the electric start will not work !. it also will not let it fire the spark plug if there is no neutral light lit up on the display.

excuseeeee me ??..shady huh ?..well..if ya don't like the mudlite at's ?, SUE ME ! ( ya won't get nuff'n )..lol.

he say's he can take parts from his non-shifting 450, install them on the atv that will shift, so i am telling him this to see if the wire harness is bad.

welcome to the forums.

if you make it past all my post ^^^ ?, then tighten down all the bolts IN A CRISS CROSS PATTERN !, do not tighten a bolt, and follow one after another, do it like you would when putting lug nuts back on a car/truck..criss cross pattern !. do not go crazy with torqueing the bolts down !!, a good snug is all you need. now to fix your clutch adjustment. with the 14mm lock nut still lose, just hand tight to the case side, slip a 14mm wrench on it, then use a standard screw drive to twist the center bolt counter clock-wise until it lightly seats, while you hold the lock nut in place !, while still holding the lock nut in place, from the lightly seated position, turn the center bolt roughly 1/4 inch clock-wise, hold it there, tighten down the lock nut. clutch is pre-adjusted now. you can check this adjustment by starting it up, lift up on the foot shift lever with your foot..HOLD IT THERE WHEN YOU DO THIS !!, now give it some thottle, does it want to creep ?, or does it sit in place ?, if it sits still ?, you are golden !. if it wants to creep ?, then go back to the adjustment bolt, loosen the lock nut, while holding the lock nut in place, turn the center bolt counter clockwise, tighten the lock nut back down. then try the clutch again like i point out in the first part of this post.

first off, make sure everything is where its suppose to be ?, by this, i mean all washers are in place, there should be two washers on the right side ( if my memory is still good ? ) one goes on the reverse shaft, the other larger washer goes on the kick starter shaft. be very careful when installing the cover, if you are not watching what you are doing ?, you will cause the reverse lever shaft spring to pop down, and ruin the new gasket ( i do hope you have a new gasket on there ? ), i always push the spring in more than what it started with, this is what pops out, and tears the gasket !. i check, double check, triple check !, everything before i install the cover. with the cover off, now is a good time to remove the clutch adjustment bolt , loosen the 14 mm lock nut, run the nut all the way to the last few threads of the bolt, then take a hammer, and smack it inward, once it goes down, remove the nut, then pull the bolt all the way out of the cover, clean it up, grease it, check the tiny o-ring that rides on the bolt lip that sits on the inside. clean the cover bore out where the bolt goes through. place the bolt through the cover, as you do this, MAKE SURE YOU ALIGN THE TRIANGLE CUT-OUT TO THE METAL STUD STICKING UP ON THE INSIDE AREA RIGHT NEXT TO THE METAL PLATE !., screw the bolt all the way in, until it sucks the plate down against the inside of the cover, now install the lock nut back on the outside end of the bolt, DO NOT TIGHTEN IT ALL THE WAY !. Now install the cover, two things here that you MUST WATCH OUT FOR !!!, one, as you are placing the cover back onto the kick starter shaft, MAKE SURE YOU ARE PRESSING THE KICK START SHAFT IN AS YOU ARE SLIDDING THE COVER BACK ON !. second, when you line up the cover to slide over the reverse shaft lever, GET IT STARTED, THEN ONCE THE SHAFT IS IN THE COVER, PLACE A LONG SCREW DRIVER THROUGH THE COVER HOLE, AND PRESSING ON THE REVERSE SHAFT LEVER, this two are very important to do at the same time !. if all goes well ?, you should be able to LIGHTLY tap the cover back on all around the side of the engine, DO NOT FORCE IT !!, THIS MEANS, DO NOT TRY TO USE THE COVER BOLTS TO PULL IT IN !!!!!, if it will not tap back fully on ?, THEN THERE IS SOMETHING KEEPING IT FROM GOING BACK ON ??!!. we can't be your hands or eyes ?, but we dang sure can be you're teacher, all you need to do is follow what we tell ya :-).

now i wonder where these pic's came from ??..lol. oh wait...they are mine , or they sure look line mine ?. edit: nope. i think these pics are from koolaids trx300fw awhile back.

welcome to the forums. the older trx350 ranchers were, AND STILL ARE !, one of the worse ones to leak from a defective float needle seat !.

welcome to the forums.

no clue ?, they came with the high lifter kit.

i normally use namura for my gasket kits, but i just looked on ebay, not many there for your atv. you can go to rocky mountain atv, and buy them seperate, as well as the oil seals, this is what i would do, DO NOT BUY ANY CHINA CRAP !.