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jeepwm69

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Posts posted by jeepwm69

  2. Posted · Edited by retro
    Exported back to thread

    For those looking to make steering a little easier on their Honda ATV, Wide Open makes a cable actuated front driveshaft disconnect that allows the machine to operate in 2wd, making steering much easier.  These disconnects are available for 93-00 (2nd and 3rd gen) 300's, 350 Ranchers, 450 Foremans, and 01-04 500 Rubicons.  They are expensive though.

     

    For the 350 Rancher, an alternative way to gain selectable 4wd is by using an 04-07 400AT Rancher front diff and driveshaft.   This is an electrically activated diff, so it does require wiring in a switch, and the front frame crossmemember must be notched a hair to clear the longer 400 front diff, but otherwise it bolts right in, and uses all Honda OEM parts.   These 400AT front diffs and driveshafts are quite a bit cheaper than getting a 424, and again, you're using all OEM hard parts in this swap.

     

    The pics below were from Retro's build on his Creamsicle 350 Rancher, and show the notch that has to be slightly enlarged to fit the bigger diff, and also the diff installed.

     

    Now to power the diff, one needs a throttle assembly off of an 05-11 Foreman, or 05-14 Rubicon, or 04-07 400AT, or a Rincon.  These contain the factory 2wd/4wd switch.  Wiring the switch is pretty simple.  There is a plug on the side of the 400AT front diff that has a green wire and an orange and white striped wire.  Ground the green wire, and connect the orange and white wire to one of the wires coming off of that 4wd switch.  Connect the other wire on the 4wd switch to a key'd on wire (I used the pink wire on the ignition switch).  This means with the key on, when you activate the switch 12V is sent to the electromagnet in the front diff that puts it in 4wd. 

     

     

    If you want to add a 4wd indicator light, you can get a 37566-HP5-600 lens from a footshift 420 that indicates 4wd.  Get a socket from an old 300 or 420 and tie the positive wire coming off of it to that orange and white wire, so that it also gets 12V when the switch is turned on (and of course, ground the other wire on the light socket).  Again, see pics from retro's build showing where he put the 4wd indicator light.  You can also see the 4wd switch in the 400AT throttle assembly in his pic.

     

    The thing that you MUST understand when doing this, is you have to computer protection straight wiring the diff like this.  On the factory selectable bikes, the ECU will not allow the diff to engage unless the front and rear speed sensors are showing the same speed (front and rear wheels are turning at the same speed).  On the 350 Ranchers, the speed sensor is on the rear output, and there is only one speed sensor on these bikes, so you don't have the ECU protection on these older machines.  When you flip the switch, the front diff will lock in....immediately  If your front wheels are sitting still and rears are spinning at 50MPH when you hit the switch, you will destroy something, so make sure you're either stopped, or going slow with all four wheels turning the same speed before you hit that switch.  YOU HAVE BEEN WARNED.

     

    @retro, hope it's ok that I used your pics.  If you like I can take them down and replace with the pics from my build.  You just took a lot better pics than I did.

     

    notch.png

    400at front diff.png

    4wd light.png

     

    • Like 3

  3. Posted · Edited by retro
    Exported back to thread

    Decided I wanted to add brake lights to my daughter's 300 at the same time I did the start-in-gear mod. 

     

    I used an 05-11 Foreman brake M/C and lever which has two microswitches build in (420 and any newer Honda M/C assembly from 05-up should work).

     

    One microswitch was used for the start-in-gear mod described here.

     

     

    The other I ran a wire from ground to microswitch, and then ran the other side of the microswitch back to the bulbs and hooked them to the ground side. 

     

    Then run a wire from the positive side of the bulbs to a keyed power on source (in the case of this 97 300, the pink wire in the battery area). 

     

    With this wired up the brake lights work only when the key is on.

     

    To mount them, I ordered two small LED bulbs (1194 equivalants) and sockets from superbrightled's.com.  I drilled holes on either side of the tail light bulb, and glued the sockets and bulbs into the tail light assembly.  This means the tail light still works and the stock tail light is still used, and the LED's only work as brake lights.

     

    brake light 300.jpg

    brake light 3002.jpg

     

    • Like 4

  4. Posted · Edited by jeepwm69

    I did the same mod on my daughter's 300, again using the Foreman brake lever so I could also add brake lights.

     

    On the 300 the wiring is as follows.


    Get your relay.

    Ground wire (under frame bolt) to Foreman brake micro switch

    Other side of micro switch to relay 85

    Ground relay 87

    12v pos switched power source to relay 86 (pink ignition wire)

    Snip wire going to neutral light.

    Relay 87a goes to the snipped (-) Neutral light wire which should be Light Green/Red and goes to bulb

    Relay 30 connects to the snipped end of the Light Green/Red wire that goes to the solenoid (neutral light wire you snipped that goes back into the harness) AND you need to run a jumper to the green wire going to the CDI.

     

    Then use the other microswich for your brake lights.  I'll post another thread here

     

     

    • Like 1

  5. Posted

    Figured I would post this up here, since it's something that I like to have on all my machines.

     

    I picked up a used Foreman 500 (05-11) brake master cylinder and brake lever, which has two micro switches built into it.  This is for an 05 350 Rancher, which has one microswitch on the stock brake lever for the brake lights.  You hook those wires onto one of the two microswitches on the Foreman brake lever, and hook a relay up to the other microswitch for the start in gear mod.


    Grounded wire goes to swtich on brake lever

    Wire coming off of other side of switch on brake lever goes to relay 85

    Black/ brown wire coming off of 15A lights fuse goes to relay 86

    Relay 87 is grounded

    Snip wire going to neutral light

    Relay 87A goes to neutral light

    Relay 30 goes to wire you snipped off that used to go to neutral light.

     

    This allows you to start the machine in gear, but only with the brake lever held back.  Will still start in Neutral with the lever held back or not held back (as normal).

     

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1

  10. Posted

    I was off Thursday and Friday, but took a vacation day Wed and part of the day Tuesday, so I've was out of work most of the week.

     

    Spent that time just north of Atlanta is the suburbs.   Huge number of pretentious, arrogant jerks.  I despise going but we go there for Thanksgiving so they come to us for Christmas.

     

    Interstate in Birmingham was closed due to construction so the trip went from 7ish hours to over 9. 

     

    Let's just say I'm glad the week is over.  LOL

     

    Sam, around here Turkey, Ham, dressing, mashed potatoes, sweet potatoes, green bean casserole, rolls, and as mentioned, lots of pie.  Eat till you're miserable.

    • Like 1

  11. Posted

    I agree that we shouldn't just post it.  They did the work.  As far as I'm concerned it is theirs to share as they see fit.

     

    I have a few saved to my computer than I can email to folks if they happen to be the one needed, but I'm not computer savvy enough to make a drop box or anything like that, and not sure how well files this size will email.

  12. Posted

    That's the way I understood it.  My buddy's wife's PS Rancher has had the light on for quite a while (his kid hit a pole with the right front wheel and jacked it all up). 

     

    I looked at the directions and from the way I interpreted it, the screwdriver is meant to space the steering out a hair from being bottomed out to begin the re initialization.

  13. Posted · Edited by jeepwm69

    LOL.  Yall remind me of us Arkansas fans saying "Well we had more yards than they did" when we lose a game and are trying to justify the idea that we're better.

     

    It will be settled on the field well enough.  I guess #1 will get to play the 4 seed, so there's a little benefit to being 1, but I think ultimately LSU and OSU battle it out for the trophy this year, and when you get that point none of this other stuff matters.

     

    If LSU thumps Georgia I think they'll jump to #1, regardless of what OSU does.

    • Like 1

  19. Posted

    I’ve run quite a few. Like the Mudbugs the best. They pull well, are light, and are smooth riding.

     

    i currently have Bugs on 3 bikes (28’s on a 500, 27’s on another 500, and 26’s on the wife’s Rancher AT).

     

    Have some 29.5 outlaws I’m going to run on a 300. That’s next on the list, going to stretch rear and use a 54% from SamUK.

     

    Daughter’s 350 Rancher had 26” Vampires on the front, Swamper blems on the rear. Seem to pull well, but haven’t run them much yet.

     

    Other daughter’s 300 has 26”  Mudlite XL’s on it, and now I’m a bit worried about them after what Mac said.

     

    Have 27” Executioners on another 500. They wear like iron but are heavy and tend to dig more than the Bugs. Not bad but the Bugs are much better for the same price.

     

    i’ve gotten rid of Mudweisers, Swamp Lites, regular Mudlites, 589’s, 489’s, and Anclas. 

     

    Nothing pulls like an Outlaw, but the Mudbugs are cheaper, ride a LOT better, so other than the 300 Mud Toy I’ll be buying Bugs going forward.

    • Like 1

  23. Posted

    1 hour ago, retro said:

    The EPA is the reason why saw manufacturers specify 50:1 ratio premix. For many years the same saw models sold in the US and Canada were specified to run 32:1 in Europe and most other overseas countries/regions. Some countries still do not require 50:1 and manufacturers still say 32:1 for models sold in those countries. So 50:1 is a govcorp scam. A 15,000 RPM 2 stroke requires high quality ashless 32:1 oil for maximum life.

     

    Interesting. I always run a little heavier than 50:1. I figure spark plugs are cheap and I’d rather be over lubricated than under.

    • Like 1

  24. Posted

    I got a 346 right after they discontinued them. Didn’t want “auto” anything on a chainsaw. 

    Guy had two on the shelf. After running mine for a couple of months I called him and asked if he’d give me the same deal on his other one, and he said no. Waited another week and decided it was worth his marked price and he’d sold it during that week, 

     

    Love the 346. Fish if you look around you might be able to find a nos unit sitting on the shelf at a small town Husky dealer

    • Like 1
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