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freebo86

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Posts posted by freebo86

  1. Posted

    On 7/8/2021 at 12:27 PM, jeepwm69 said:

     

    I think since the drum is aluminum in these, anything short of replacing the drum, shoes, and of course, all the seals just doesn't give much braking power. 

     

    I've had a few drums that I've redone that worked ok for a short period of time.  If you get in any water it WILL find it's way in, and as you figured out, they don't work with mud and water in them.

     

    But even those that have stayed dry just wouldn't stay adjusted tight.  Unless you put new OEM brake pads and a new OEM drum on there.  That lasted awhile, but was $$$ and ultimately still ended up with water in there, which effectively ruined it again.


    Maybe drilling a drain hole in the actual hub? I know the backing plate has like a drain hole.. how well it works? 🤷‍♂️
     

     

    if I’m driving faster, 40mph or so and then let off throttle or sometimes not that fast the bike backfires. It seems to be more consistent on cooler weather too. What gives? Or just chalk it up as it is what it is at this point? My throttle range is strong at all points and if I tap it the bike just rears and wants to go! All 452ccs 😜

     

    As you guys know this machine has been basically torn somewhat apart from top to bottom. 
     

     

  2. Posted

    2 hours ago, TBRider said:

    Mine still work at -20C.....lol


    bundle that with wet snow and forget it lol! Brakes no worky. 

     

    9 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

    Glad you got it.  I HATE drum brakes on these Hondas.  I just never have any luck keeping them working for long.  I've pretty much given up on them on a couple of my 500's.  The kids' 350 Rancher and 300 (350D rear end) both work well, and the wife's Rubicon rear brake works so far.  Mine?  Nope. 


    In what sense? Like they seize or just don’t grab? When I took the stuff off surprisingly there was t a lot of water there. Most of it was in the hub (big black housing). There was almost none in the actual drum (where the shoes bite). 

     

    Finished my install tonight, it’s all back together. I slobbered marine grease everywhere lol to get as tight of a seal as possible and to hopefully keep as much water out as I can! 

     

  3. Posted

    Got it to break loose, a few turns left and right it started to turn and then I was able to tap it out lightly. 
     

    Had to make my own vent hose connection fit-up as the original was gone and tapped new threads on the hole. Also need to drill out the cotter pin holes that hold the brake shoes on as their gunked up. Bearings were swapped over from my plate, cleaned and regreased. 
     

    The stuff you see on the o-ring is some die-electric grease to give it that extra bit of seals by power against the tube. 
     

     

    • Like 2

  5. Posted

    Just now, shadetree said:

    if you have access to a shop press ?, i always use a small bar centered in the dip, and press them out. MAKE SURE YOU HAVE THE BACKING PLATE SUPPORTED FLAT UNDER THE PLATE !, then just press it out. DO NOT HAMMER ON IT !!!.


    I have a press and that’s exactly what I did last time and it popped lol. 
     

    it was supported evenly and it just wouldn’t budge on the old plate.

  6. Posted

    1 minute ago, Fishfiles said:

    I used to get the Evapo-rust for $45 a 5 gallon can in 2006 , when I just looked it goes for $82 now and it is not as good as it use to be ----  I did knives , guns , parts of fishing reels , one bad effect it had for me was  it melted a Luger pistol  I had of my  grandfather's , think it was made of magnesium    ---- that backing plate being made of cast aluminum , I'd be  careful and not let it soak too long if I used Evapo-Rust on it                 


    Think I’ll go with just vinegar for the time being let it sit for a day or two. No rush to break this free so I can let it soak for a while 

  7. Posted

    Just now, Fishfiles said:

    i don't recognize the brand , but that's it , I use vinegar a lot in my refurbing of stuff ------ after Katrina a lot of my tools and stuff were rusted up , I used this stuff , Evapo-Rust , worked great , but , find  it is not as potent as it use to be 


    Ah yah I got Evapo-Rust but didn’t think it would be something to break rust free from components? I used it to clean up some of the parts even during this build lol. 

    • Like 1

  11. Posted

    44 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

    i say if you looking for a smooth ride then get a Can-Am , if you want it to last , stick with the Honda 


    Lol have you been creeping my local classified search results!! Haha really like the CanAm visual appearance but I’ve been reading on the maintenance on these, thinking a 650 would be a good compromise. The Kawa BruteForce 750 also has a thing for me! 

  12. Posted

    7 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

    thank you for the pics, yeah, I'd good a head and locate one, you've done alot to this machine, getting back in good shape might as well cover all the bases 🙂


    Thank you! It’s come a long way, only thing I wish for the machine to be a bit smoother riding lol. 
     

    But I did score a second hand brake plate today, same ordeal that brake lever/arm is seized if you look back a few pages that’s how I cracked mine by trying to remove it. Any suggestions? Keep soaking it every day forever to break it free?

  14. Posted

    The 450 runs like a top these days. Really dialed in! Putting some serious mileage on it. 
     

    Noticed one of the inner axle boots is starting to show stretch marks and the rubber is deteriorating. Can someone tell me what grease can I put in these when the boots replace? Reason I ask is I have a boot on hand already and wondering if odd the shelf grease can be put in?

     

    Noticed my rear brake plate the JB weld is coming off so I’m going to have to source a good used one to replace. 
     

     

    • Like 1

  15. Posted · Edited by freebo86

    12 hours ago, retro said:

    Flip the valve cover over and you'll see oiling dripper holes centered over each of the valve stem tips. The o-ring seals the oiler supply galley to the valve cover so oil is provided to the drippers which lubricates the rocker arms & valve stems.

    So with a bad o ring what occurs? The rocker arms don’t get the oil they need? You burn up the oil down the valve seals?

  19. Posted · Edited by freebo86

    The 450 has front Disc Brakes which are worn out. The setup are Quadtrax type that appears to be a spin off from SuperATV. for the Canuck folks. Doing some researching online it comes back that these calipers are re-branded Wilwood.

     

    Here is the actual disc brakes.

    https://revco.ca/quadrax-front-disc-brake-kit-for-honda-atvs/

     

    Caliper; https://www.wilwood.com/Calipers/CaliperList?subname=PS1

    Pads: https://www.wilwood.com/BrakePads/BrakePadsList?padtype=4108

     

    Anyone recommend some brake pads that will last? I see these style with these 1 rabbit ear like connection all over the place from $10 a pair to $100 a pair...

     

    image.png


     

  22. Posted

    6 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

     

    Honestly, I don't think it matters. 

     

    As Shade said, on cars they tend to be on the back. 

     

    On the factory Hondas, they're on the front.

     

    So looks like they work either way.  If yours work well as they are, I'd leave them alone.

     

    I'm just picking at Shade. LOL


    Wonder if braking performance would be any different / better with them at the rear?

  24. Posted · Edited by freebo86

    1 hour ago, shadetree said:

    the PO did not mount them right, the calipers should be mounted on the rear of the rotors. flip the brackets, MAKE SURE THE CALIPERS HAVE THE BLEED VALVES ON THE TOP OF THE CALIPERS !. this may require you to switch sides when flipping them to the rear of the rotors, and this means bleeding them again. i had installed a few of these kits, and in the instructions ( if you read them !..lol ) tells you to mount the calipers on the rear side of the rotors.

     

    Yah I'll have to flip them. My Bleeders are on top now. Worst is I just bled and flushed the oil fluid and brakes about a month ago.. lol

  25. Posted

    24 minutes ago, shadetree said:

    calipers mount on the back side of the rotors, think of it like this , which side of the rotors on cars/trucks are they mounted ?. rear !.

     

    I dont have the instructions for this setup, it was installed when I got the bike. But I think I've seen photos of them being mounted where they are lol on others as well. So you guys are saying mine are installed wrong? Ill have to flip it over..

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