freebo86

Interesting on the location of your calipers, my kit (Quadtrax) Canadian spin off from SuperATV the calipers sit towards the front half of the rotor/bike....

5 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

You have a green wire (ground) and a blue wire (hot) on the fan.  On my 500's the temp sensor grounds when it reaches a certain temperature, cutting on the fan, so the hot wire is always hot on the fan, and the ground wire grounds to turn the fan on.

 

So you would wire a switch into the ground wire, with one side going to fan, and the other going to ground somewhere.  That should allow you to shut it on and off manually.

 

Before you do that, let one of the electrical gurus (Retro, Melatv) come along and verify.  I'm pretty much a hack when it comes to electrical stuff.  I can usually get it to work , but it might not be right LOL

That was my intended idea and understanding of it. I wouldn't cut into the existing wiring either I would just simply put a switch inline and add those barrel connectors and potentially the switch could be removed from the equation in the future with the exception of where the switch gets mounted and a hole drilled, lol. @retro or @Melatv thoughts?

5 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

You have a green wire (ground) and a blue wire (hot) on the fan.  On my 500's the temp sensor grounds when it reaches a certain temperature, cutting on the fan, so the hot wire is always hot on the fan, and the ground wire grounds to turn the fan on.

 

So you would wire a switch into the ground wire, with one side going to fan, and the other going to ground somewhere.  That should allow you to shut it on and off manually.

 

Before you do that, let one of the electrical gurus (Retro, Melatv) come along and verify.  I'm pretty much a hack when it comes to electrical stuff.  I can usually get it to work , but it might not be right LOL

That was my intended idea and understanding of it. I wouldn't cut into the existing wiring either I would just simply put a switch inline and add those barrel connectors and potentially the switch could be removed from the equation in the future with the exception of where the switch gets mounted and a hole drilled, lol. @retro

4 minutes ago, shadetree said:

a keyed power source, as in, when you turn the key on, you have 12 volts, this would be rigged inline to fan to turn it on and off. 

Just now, shadetree said:

myself, i would just buy a new fan control unit, be done with it, i don't like '' hacking '' into my wire harness unless i am tapping into a hot lead to wire a mini rocker switch to operate a winch.

Gotcha. But taping into the blue wire lead, it would still be keyed and only function if bike is on. Because grounding the blue wire out the fan wont run unless you have key ON?

10 minutes ago, shadetree said:

you could, but why not just stay around the fan for power ?.

Sorry, not following you? stay around what fan power?

https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/manual-fan-switch.65456/

4 hours ago, shadetree said:

the way most folks do it, they run power from a power source, install an inline switch between it and the fan motor. myself ?, i leave everything stock. why are you wanting to install a fan switch ?, most times when the fan does not come on, its because of the oil temp sensor switch. when these sensor switches work right, they tell the fan to kick on.

Why would you run power to the switch? Can't you simply ground the blue wiring using a switch? Kind of like the service manual indicates to test the fan operation?

Sounds like a valve seat. Went through this a few months ago. 

38 minutes ago, shadetree said:

the way most folks do it, they run power from a power source, install an inline switch between it and the fan motor. myself ?, i leave everything stock. why are you wanting to install a fan switch ?, most times when the fan does not come on, its because of the oil temp sensor switch. when these sensor switches work right, they tell the fan to kick on.

My oil temp sensor is brand new, OEM. It’s the FCU controller that’s actually toast. The unit sometimes flashed the light briefly when I turn the key, other times it doesn’t. If I bake the controller in the oven then the controller works fine. 
 

K don’t follow your wiring idea. So where do you tie the other end of the switch? 
 

9 minutes ago, shadetree said:

wiring the fan to come with a switch is easy, but the oil temp light will always stay on , this is because of the oil temp sensor.

Gotcha. So is it as easy as putting a switch inline with the two wires that are near the fuel tank that run to the fan?

When switch is flipped you ground those and the fan comes on demand, leaving the switch in the off position basically retains the FCU operation to trigger it like OEM? That’s when FCU works.. 

Send those pivotworks bearings back. 
 

Well can someone point me in the direction how my to wire the FAN to work on a switch? I would like to keep the wiring to a minimum. My FCU is kaput I don’t feel like baking it in the oven every 2 weeks. It works intermittently on the dash that the little red light comes on during key ON. 
 

If I wire it to a switch does the FCU remain or do I have to remove it from the bike? Can someone  help out?

25 minutes ago, Demon8024 said:

 

Ive done that it shifts fine

The motor engages? 

Well then I'd move and check your switches see if they send signals (continuity) downstream. I do not really know where the Up/Down switch sends it's signal but find the end and ensure the switch actually works. if it also works, then your fault is at whatever they are tied into.

I'm sure @retro will chime in here shortly. There was a guy just the other day had shifting issues and there is troubleshooting steps posted in his thread. Ignore the "Wont start" in his title, his thread turns into a shifting issue as you read through it.

Take the shift motor out, and bench test it. Apply 12V from the battery to 2 of the 3 leads. Check the Wiring Diagram from the Service Manual which ones are the + and - (upshift). To reverse the operation of the shift motor flip + & - (mimics the downshift).

This will tell you if the motor even engages and spins the shaft. If it does, move onto the next test point. If no movement from Shift Motor then you need a new one.

3 minutes ago, dadhustle said:

Hi there, I think I did, but truth.. was so pumped, I dunno.. I did get it back in to N but emergency shift, but now I’m back where I started, no action in the shift switches and I can’t get the reset procedure to kick again

Have you pulled the shift motor to inspect it? My shift motor crapped out on me a few months back.. couldn’t shift.. locked up in gear. The magnets completely destroyed inside the armature 

16 minutes ago, dadhustle said:

Okay, spoke too soon.  She wasn’t shifting in order, couldn’t get into reverse... odd.  Tried procedure again and now she won’t get our of - - instead of neutral.... its a great day though, confirmation all parts work!

 

any thoughts on this reset procedure?

When you were shifting was the bike stationary? If so, just rock the bike back and forth and it will lock into a gear and the indicator will update and hopefully show a grear #. 
 

Id your shifting up and down while bike is stationary it is normal for it to go maybe like 1, 2 and then - - until you rock it where it locks into gear. 
 

For reverse did you push the pin, pull the brake and then try going into reverse? You can’t go in reverse unless you depress the little pin by the left brake lever. 

14 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

 zmbe-039-c3 doesn't come up on  searches  ------ 

You got a few letters backwards there, it says; ZWBE-029-C3

3 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

hard to see anything for sure from those pics , the bearings are in the bag and the sticker is right over the bearing numbers in the other where you can see the race , they key is to have the word Pivot Works embossed into the inner race , that was when they were good , the box is right --- 

No go boss. 

On 5/14/2021 at 11:32 AM, jeepwm69 said:

If you have to replace knuckles, I'd upgrade.

 

05-11 Foreman, 05-14 Rubicon, and 06-21 Rincon knuckles will bolt right on at the ball joints, and when you add hub/rotors, and calipers, you have factory disc brakes.

I already have front discs on the 450. 
 

The pivotworks bearings arrived. The description matched what @jeepwm69 said. Are these the good or bad ones? Something particular I should be looking for?

On 5/10/2021 at 9:54 PM, Fishfiles said:

No , the ones I was getting had side seals on them and were pre-packed with Yack Fat as Retro calls it , I  always pop the inside side seal off the bearing and throw it away , wash them out and repack them with marine grease , then pack the knuckle with as much grease as I can --- the last replacement set I got from Pivot Works had a tube of grease in the blister pack and the bearings were not greased from the factory , those didn't have side seals , they didn't have Pivot Works embossed into the race , I never used that tube of grease , still got it in the shed , I am curious right now what kind of grease is in that tube 

While on the topic of front bearings, and potential knuckle worn what knuckles interchange with the 450? @jeepwm69 I think may know?

Correction onthe above that’s 1-3/4 turns out. Not 2-1/4..

7 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Looks good to me , how's it running 

Like an absolute beast. Pulls and fires, perfectly. On a cold start, while it’s running under the enrichment valve it sounds a bit odd. Not sure if I should set my idle adjustment up a bit. But once it warms it just sounds wicked. 
 

Was out tonight, did a 25mile trip. 
 

Revive an old thread 2-1/4 out. How’s it look?
 

13 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

So that’s the unsealed type? As in the “bees knees”? 
 

@Fishfiles is there something you don’t have? Lol! 

4 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

If you don't have them in your hand to verify that they are the old Pivotworks bearings, avoid them. 

 

The old ones had the Pivotworks part number embossed/engraved on the inner steel bearing race.  No side seals in the bearings.

 

Anything you order unseen you will 99.99999% get garbage All Balls bearings.

 

 

wealth of knowledge you provided! I ordered them last night, if they are as you describe their going back - gotta love Amazon Prime for that. I’ll post up should be here in the next couple of days.  

16 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

If they have open sided bearings, they're the good ones.  If the sides of the bearings have seals, they're All Balls.

 

That's as near as I can tell anyway. 

What do you mean open sides? As in the ball bearings are visible? 
 

Here is the actual sale AD. 
Pivot Works PWFWK-H14-040 Front Wheel Bearing Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B007S0KG3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_i_PQAZK2ZM2BEDXDKV4MGA

36 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Just get OEM.

 

The only bearings I've used that lasted other than OEM were the old Pivotworks.  All Balls bought out Pivotworks a few years ago so now Pivotworks are just repacked All Balls bearings (china).

 

So no decent bearings available that I've found other than OEM.

I think I may have got my hands on an old set of Pivotworks which actually may be the good quality ones then?