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GeorgeT

2001 Honda Foreman 500

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Ok guys. So today I started having trouble with my display flashing when riding. The Left side where the gear is displayed will go to flashing. Then I can't change gears. I have to stop shut the engine off and turn it back on and the display will come back up like it should be.. Well that is not all that is happening. When I go to reverse and start backing up the engine starts skipping. as soon as I go back to drive it runs fine. This only happens when the display is fricking out. I knew when I got this bike I was going to have trouble before it was over. Should have got a plain jane old style ATV and been happy with it. Anyways someone give me some pro help with this so I can get it fixed and back to riding.

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Welcome to ATVHonda .... I would guess your 500 is a Hondamatic model ? I don't have one personally , have read the oil level is critical on them ,  as far as that reverse issue you having ---- on the flashing display problem , have you disconnected electrical connections , checked for corrision and dielectric greased them yet , seems that is always the first step ----

 

we have a few guys that know about them Hondamatics , @toodeepand @jeepwm69 just hailed them for you

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Foreman electric shift or Rubicon automatic (year would be helpful also)? If there is a pause in the flashing count the number of blinks and that is a code.

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Oh man sorry I thought I put the year on it. it's a 2001. It's just a fast blink none stop. 

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Welcome to ATVHonda @GeorgeT! So ya got a 2001 Rubicon 500 Hondamatic. The electronic shift control has self-diagnostics built-in. So your first step is to retrieve any diagnostic trouble codes that may be stored in memory. Fortunately reading DTCs is pretty easy on your model, just count the long & short blinks on the display while in retrieval mode. Here is how ya do that.

 

rubi-code-retrieval.png

 

Let us know which code(s) you retrieved.

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Thanks Retro. I am heading out to the shop and see if I can pull some codes now. 

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1 hour ago, GeorgeT said:

Oh man sorry I thought I put the year on it. it's a 2001. It's just a fast blink none stop. 

You did put the year on the title , so many times I over look the title myself , wish people would put the year and model on the first post , sure toodeep did too 

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On 4/17/2021 at 7:07 AM, GeorgeT said:

. When I go to reverse and start backing up the engine starts skipping. as soon as I go back to drive it runs fine.

 

That's likely going to be something with the two switches for reverse. One's on the bottom of the shifter, the other is the actual gear position switch.

 

If you have a functional brain, you could always do the reverse mod which tricks it into thinking it's in forwards while mechanically being in reverse.  Gives you full power/speed in reverse.  We did it to @basfnb's Rubicon and he loves it.

 

Of course, quick way to get hurt or killed if you don't have sense, or let someone without sense ride your Rubicon, so do this mod at your own risk!

 

https://www.hondaforeman.com/threads/honda-rubicon-reverse-mod.80360/#post-625421

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Ok guys little update on what was going on. Took me a few days to find the trouble but I found it..... After letting the bike set for two days the battery was completely dead. So I charged it back up and did a draw test on the bike to see what was going on. sure enough it had a big draw on the battery. after pulling all the fuses trying to find what was drawing power off the battery I still did not know. So the next thing to do is start unhooking stuff so I started with the regulator. As soon as I touched it to take the plug off it burn my hand. HMMM there it is. So I took the battery cable off let it cool for a few mins and took the regulator off. I call the Honda shop and got a new one on the way. Now the battery is holding up. The voltage is where it should be and all my shifter and flashing dash is gone. All this for low voltage.  Sure am glad this is all it was. Thanks for all your help and time. 

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Thanks for letting us know what you found GeorgeT! Have fun!

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Ok Guys the trouble is back, This happen yesterday while riding. I pulled the codes on it and I have a #2 code and a #5 code. I have replaced the angle sensor did not help. The #2 code is a speedometer code and I know mine works some times and then quits working. the shifter code I might need help with. Like I said just changed the Angle sensor and it's still doing it. What's next to look at 

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1 hour ago, GeorgeT said:

 What's next to look at 

Retro's ES   preventive maintenance thread first , then a " For Sale Sign " LOL 

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4 hours ago, GeorgeT said:

I pulled the codes on it and I have a #2 code and a #5 code. I have replaced the angle sensor did not help. The #2 code is a speedometer code and I know mine works some times and then quits working. the shifter code I might need help with. Like I said just changed the Angle sensor and it's still doing it.

 

You'll have to fix that speed sensor issue to get it to shift. The first step though, before any further diagnosis or work, should be unplugging every electrical connector on the ATV, cleaning them with electrical/contacts spray and dielectric greasing every one generously before snapping them back together. You'll have to take both fenders off in order to access them all. Be careful with the ECM connector while unplugging it and plugging it back in (don't bend any pins on the ECM), but do not skip cleaning the pins & connector sockets and dielectric greasing. Odds are that dielectric greasing of every connector will fix the speed sensor and possibly the angle sensor issue too.

 

Next thing I gotta warn about before diagnosis is that all electrical parts must be Genuine Honda parts. If you have any china knockoffs on your Rubicon you'll have to replace them with OEM parts, else you'll never fix anything. So if your new Angle sensor is not a Genuine Honda part then take it off and throw it in the garbage. Put the OEM angle sensor back on it (with connector dielectric greased) for the initialization and diagnosis steps.

 

Once ya got every electrical connector prepared and have OEM Honda parts on it you'll need to initialize the system. Follow the initialization guide below exactly, the list of DTCs are included for reference. Let us know if there are any issues remaining after....

 

01-03-dtc.png

 

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Retro Thanks for you help. I am only using Honda parts on this bike I know better then to use China crap on anything. I am going to check that Speed sensor tomorrow and see if I can get it going. It might take me a few weeks to get around to taking all the plastic off and cleaning all the plugs and putting dielectric grease on them. But thanks again for your help 

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On 5/13/2021 at 9:05 PM, Fishfiles said:

Retro's ES   preventive maintenance thread first , then a " For Sale Sign " LOL 

Thanks Bud that makes me feel good. So I guess I have bought a pile of crap is what your saying. 

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5 hours ago, GeorgeT said:

Thanks Bud that makes me feel good. So I guess I have bought a pile of crap is what your saying. 

Never said that , even though now that you bring it up , it is a possibility ----- some have no problems with the ES , some have nightmares , if you not one to want to tinker with it and find yourself in a money pit by throwing parts at it  , then a $.99 sign will rid the problem ----Retro's preventative maintenance thread above is the way to start  before throwing money away by guessing on parts 

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Here are the angle sensor voltage and resistance specs as well as the angle sensor replacement procedure.

 

angle-sensor.png

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This is speed sensor diagnostics stuff.... First check for sensor supply voltage & ground by disconnecting the speed sensor 3p plug and measure for DC volts. With your red multimeter lead poked into the Black/Blue wire terminal inside the 3p harness connector and your black multimeter lead poked into the Green wire terminal inside the 3p connector, turn the key on. You should measure battery voltage, if so move on to the next step. But if there is not battery voltage then check the wiring harness for damage such as mice-chewed wires, or a spot in the harness that has been broken/rubbed through by the frame, etc. If the harness looks good (but no battery voltage on the Black/Blue wire) unplug the LCD Meter 14p connector for inspection. Check for continuity in the Black/Blue wire between the Meter 14p harness connector and the speed sensor 3p connector. Let us know if that Black/Blue wire is dead.

 

Next step, unplug the ECM 34p connector and the speed sensor 3p connector. Check for continuity on the Pink/Green wire between the ECM 34p harness connector and the speed sensor 3p harness connector. If no continuity inspect the harness for damage. Let us know if that Pink/Green wire is dead.

 

speed-sensor-meter.png

 

You probably do not have a 3p adapter plug on hand for measuring the 5 volt pulse produced by the speed sensor (it's a Honda shop tool) , so we'll have to skip that step. But if all else have tested fine so far, remove the speed sensor for inspection. Look at the tip of the sensor where the reluctor teeth move past it for any evidence of rubbing or grinding. If you can see any damage or if you find a wad of metal shavings stuck to the end of the sensor, let us know.

 

Dielectric grease inside the 34p ECM connector and snap it back together completely. Ya gotta guide the connector into the ECM straight.... be careful you do not snap it together crooked, or bend any pins. The connector fits tightly so sometimes a lot of force is required to fully seat it inside the ECM. Also dielectric grease inside the 14p LCD Meter connectors if you haven't already.

 

speed-sensor-replace.png

 

Let us know what you learn. If everything checks out and you can rule out all possible harness connector issues, then you'll likely need a new OEM Honda speed sensor.

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Thanks Retro. You have been a big help with this. I will check it and get back to you. 

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I have the same machine and other than needing to replace the hondamatic (very spendy) its been great. Did you download the manual from the top menu here? Clock the angle sensor right when you installed it? Did you perform the Initial Setting Procedure after changing the angle sensor? As stated earlier, oil level and cleanliness is very important on these wheelers.

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@GeorgeT,

 

Got some last minute checks before you buy a replacement speed sensor.... Attached is the wiring diagram for your Rubicon.

 

Notice on the wiring diagram that the speed sensor supply voltage originates from the LCD display meter via the Black/Blue stripe wire. I think we have already verified this but in event that you don't measure voltage supplying the speed sensor, unplug the meter and verify that there is continuity through the Black/Blue wire from the meter connector harness plug to the speed sensor harness connector. If you measure voltage on the Black/Blue wire at the speed sensor connector disregard this test and move on to the next one.

 

Unplug the LCD display meter connector, unplug the speed sensor connector and unplug the ECM connector. Check continuity through the Pink/Green stripe wire between the speed sensor connector and the Pink/Green wire at the LCD display meter connector. Then check for continuity through the Pink/Green wire between the speed sensor and the ECM harness connector. Finally, check for continuity through the Pink/Green wire between the ECM connector and the display meter connector. If any of those continuity tests fail hold onto your cash and let us know about it.

 

Lastly, unbolt and verify that each one of your frame grounds (there are a few of them) are clean, rust-free and tight.

 

If all of these final checks pass inspection then your speed sensor has gotta be replaced. But... and this is a longshot... but it is possible that your speed sensor is producing 5 volt pulses but the display meter and the ECM are both bad. Odds are long on that observation though, so we must assume that a speed sensor replacement should fix your Rubicon.

 

wiring.png

 

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Unplug the LCD display meter connector, unplug the speed sensor connector and checked it. I did not unplug the ECM and check it back to the Speed sensor. I did check the ground on the LCD plug and the Speed sensor. both of them was fine. I check the frame grounds and cleaned them. I also checked the ground from the battery to the engine cleaned it as well. And tonight while putting the front plastic back on I found a single yellow wire coming from the main harness in front of the engine just under the fuel tank it is broke but I can't find where it goes. Looking at the wiring diagram it looks like it should be going to the oil sending unit. but the light comes on when you turn on the key on the dash. Any idea where this might be coming from and going to.  

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The only all-Yellow wires on Honda ATVs made in the 2001 era are the three alternator windings wires that go to the Regulator/Rectifier, which is mounted on the rear of the ATV rather than the front.

 

Are you sure that the loose wire is a solid Yellow color, with no colored stripe on it? If so, then the wiring harness may have been tampered with and that Yellow wire spliced into it.

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You mentioned earlier in this thread that the Regulator/Rectifier was found to be shorted (was very hot and had drained the battery) and so you replaced the Regulator/Rectifier and the shift failure issue disappeared for a while. Then recently the shift and speed indicator issues returned and here we are.

 

So, lets identify that loose yellow wire coming out of the main wiring harness and lets inspect the alternator wires and check the regulator/rectifier charging circuit out again.

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I will go out to the shop tomorrow and make sure it don't have a color strip in the yellow wire. It's one wire coming from the main harness going to the front of the bike and is cut loose just in front of the engine. And yes the Regulator was bad and I did replace it. But it's charging the battery and the shift trouble did go away for a little bit. and I have noticed that the shift trouble starts when I run the bike hard. I was riding it today and as long as I ride it slow the shifter works still no MPH showing but as Soon as I get on it hard it's starts flashing and I have to stop and cut it off to get the shifter display to show up again. This is something that I noticed today. most of the time I am riding the fields and I am getting on it good but I was just putting around it today and it never acted up. And after the speedometer started working I could run the ! out of it and it would not act up until the Speedometer stopped working again and the trouble would return. 

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