retro 4,048 Posted May 28, 2021 Do both buttons test bad, no continuity? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted May 28, 2021 Nevermind... I misread your post. So both switches test fine right? Next plug in the ECM and anything else that you have unhooked. All parts mounted and plugged in... except for the 3p switch connector. Then turn the ignition switch on and use a small piece of wire to jumper between the Black/Red and the White/Blue wires inside the male half of the 3p switches harness connector. The shift motor should attempt to upshift. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 28, 2021 I may be confusing you, sorry if I am, I think the buttons tested good but when I went male plug to EMC only the b/r had continuity the other two had nothing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted May 28, 2021 Ok thanks for straightening me out. 🙂 You aren't confusing me I was born that way. hahaha So it looks like the White/Blue wire between the 3p connector and the ECM connector is open? And the White/Yellow wire between the 3p connector and the ECM connector is open too? If so that means that the wiring harness is damaged between the male switches connector and the ECM connector. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 28, 2021 I did the jumper wire thing and motor did not make a sound. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 28, 2021 When I was testing between the male connector w/b and EMC w/b my meter was reading OL when I tested it it didn’t change same on w/y but on b/r it went to 0.00 when tested. I will do it again. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted May 28, 2021 Lets try again... test one wire at a time. Unplug the ECM, put your multimeter in continuity mode and poke one of your multimeter leads into the male 3p connector where the White/Blue wire is. Then poke the other multimeter lead into the 3p connector where the White/Blue wire is. Your meter should show continuity. If so move your multimeter leads onto the White/Yellow wire inside the ECM connector and the 3p connector. Meter should show continuity. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 28, 2021 I just did it again with no continuity on those two but again b/r shows good Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 28, 2021 I did the test in the coupling with nothing when I checked it or EMC. Switch is off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted May 29, 2021 Ok, lets recap what we have learned here... first I need to verify that I understand your testing. You did not have one meter lead on the Black/Red wire, and the other meter lead on the White/Blue wire correct? The Black/Red wire has continuity between the 3p connector and the ECM connector, correct? But the White/Blue wire is broken inside the harness somewhere between the 3p connector and the ECM connector, correct? The White/Yellow wire is also broken somewhere inside the harness correct? Please forgive me for questioning your work. I just need to be sure that I understand the results of these tests because we are about to tear apart your wiring harness. 🙂 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 That’s fine question me I told you I’m not very good with the meter. But I never crossed b/r with anything. It does seem to have wires broken because I have no continuity on the w/b and w/y. I’ve got to quit for the night but will be back tomorrow. Go on and get me laid out on what’s next. I got some work around the place that will take me a couple hrs. I may check back in. Big Thanks!! 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted May 29, 2021 Thanks for understanding my caution. You are doing good, solid work, I just don't like to make mistakes on my end... I trust your work more than I trust my ability to communicate instructions clearly. Forums are difficult for me. So I always double-check that we are on the same page once a diagnosis finds a fault. Because now we are gonna fix it and in this case it appears that we gotta tear up your wiring harness... which makes me cringe a bit. So anyway, once you get back on it inspect the wiring harness between the 3p connector and the ECM connector for damage or evidence that someone may have messed with it in the past. Look for a place where the harness is rubbed through by sharp frame edges or is cut open inside of bends where it is routed past stuff. Look for evidence of chewed wires by a mouse or other rodent. Look at the connectors where the ends of the wires are secured inside the plastic and where the metal terminals attach to the wires to see if the wires have pulled out. Look for any splices that a previous owner attempted.... etc. If the harness and connectors look fine then the next step is to begin to remove the outer sheathing on the harness between the ECM connector and the 3p switches connector looking for broken White/Blue wire and Broken White/Yellow wire. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 (edited) I have confidence in your directions and I appreciate the help from you and the other guys that helped so much in the start, advice, manuals, etc. I'm learning a lot and it keeps me busy. I'm 73 years old and don't want to sit down and do nothing, so I'll run you guys crazy teaching me. Edited May 29, 2021 by Bossdaddy 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
retro 4,048 Posted May 29, 2021 I'm almost caught up to ya, turned 64 last week Bossdaddy. 🙂 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 I rechecked everything and I’ve got continuity between the 3P connector and the ECM connector on b/r, w/b and w/y. Don’t ask what happened, it was ok yesterday, human performance error, anyway what’s next. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted May 29, 2021 Hi: I am just going to jump in here while you wait for Retro --- key off -- unplug the ECM and check for 12 VDC on 5P connector 5 wire connector for ECM that is the R/Y wire -- should have 12vdc on the that R/Y wire with key on -- red test lead on the R/Y wire and black test lead on neg. of battery. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 OK, you said 5P connector I need location of 5P connector. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 You said unplug the ECM I’m assuming that’s the 16P connector and unplug the 5P beside it. Turned key on and checked voltage on r/y wire got nothing. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted May 29, 2021 Now find the engine relay see picture -- the relay has 4 wires to it -- unplug it and check the R/W wire in the connector for 12 VDC with the key on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted May 29, 2021 Hi: also do you have 12 VDC on the Bl/O wire on the same connector with the key on? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 The r/w reads 12.3 the b/o reads like it’s not hooked to anything. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted May 29, 2021 Was the ECM plug in and the key on when check for 12VDC on the Bl/O wire? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 Key was on ECM unplugged Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Melatv 792 Posted May 29, 2021 Check Bl/O wire again on the relay connector with the ECM plug in -- both connectors on the ECM with key on Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bossdaddy 209 Posted May 29, 2021 Ok, meter went bad wouldn’t even read across the battery. Got out old meter and both r/w and b/o read 12v. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites