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beer

2006 rancher CDI box question

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Hi All,

I have a new CDI box on the way for my 2006 rancher AT.

When I replace the CDI will I loose anything, like odometer miles?

Is it just a strait up plug and play or anything else need to be reset or done?

 

Thanks,

Jeff

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21 minutes ago, beer said:

Hi All,

I have a new CDI box on the way for my 2006 rancher AT.

When I replace the CDI will I loose anything, like odometer miles?

Is it just a strait up plug and play or anything else need to be reset or done?

 

Thanks,

Jeff

plug and play.

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You should initialize the transmission after replacing it. It set everything with the transmission so it works correctly. As far as mileage and hours that is all stored in the meter, not the ECM/CDI.

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On 7/2/2022 at 12:23 AM, toodeep said:

You should initialize the transmission after replacing it. It set everything with the transmission so it works correctly. As far as mileage and hours that is all stored in the meter, not the ECM/CDI.

How is that done?

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Pull up the factory service manual from the link in the toolbar.  Look on page 24-9 for instructions.

 

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Posted (edited)
4 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

Pull up the factory service manual from the link in the toolbar.  Look on page 24-9 for instructions.

 

Went through the process in the manual. I erased all codes first.  The trans works much smoother now and the throttle response is much better.  I'm still getting the 4WD light flashing a 4 code and 4WD is disabled when this happens.

Before I erased the codes it was showing a 1 code, indicating the magneto or pulse generator is faulty.  I fought with it all day trying to get the crank bolt behind the pull starter out to inspect the mag and trigger.  I can not get that bolt out for the life of me. I tried 2 different impact guns on it as well as a breaker bar. No cigar. It's stuck in there for eternity.

I guess it's gonna stay that way being 2WD and a hot wired fan.  This thing kicked my butt and wants to stay busted.

 

I give up

Edited by beer

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If the Code 1 issue is gone after clearing the codes then don't worry about it unless code 1 reappears in the future.

 

As for code 4 appearing after you cleared the codes, that indicates a low supply voltage issue. It could be caused by a poor frame ground somewhere due to rust/corrosion under the bolts. Clean your grounds up first on both the motor and the frame then follow the diags in the FSM for code 4:

 

selectable-code-4.png

 

You'll need a fully charged battery that is in good condition. Also before checking the supply voltage remove all of your fuses from the fuse box one at a time and shine up each of the terminals on each fuse before reinserting them where each belongs. If you still see a code 4 reappear after cleaning all frame and motor grounds and fuses let us know.

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Is their a diagram anywhere that shows all the motor and frame grounding points?  The ground I cleaned is the negative battery cable to the engine block.  I'm sure their must be others.

 

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I may have found something of note this morning.  I purchased a multi meter last night.  When the machine was off and cold motor this morning the battery voltage measured 14.1V.

When I started the machine and let it run a few minutes I measured the charge voltage at the battery cables. I got 18.25V.

This would seem like an over charging situation to me.  Is my assumption correct?

Would this point to a faulty Regulator/Rectifier?

Could this be whats triggering the 4 code?

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I would say your regulator is bad , 14.5 should be the max  high range when running --- 14.1 after sitting all night is high , likely from being cooked last time you ran it --- 

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On 7/6/2022 at 7:39 AM, beer said:

I may have found something of note this morning.  I purchased a multi meter last night.  When the machine was off and cold motor this morning the battery voltage measured 14.1V.

When I started the machine and let it run a few minutes I measured the charge voltage at the battery cables. I got 18.25V.

This would seem like an over charging situation to me.  Is my assumption correct?

Would this point to a faulty Regulator/Rectifier?

Could this be whats triggering the 4 code?

 

Yeah Fishfiles already helped you... and yeah high voltage may be triggering the code 4 as well. You'll need to buy a genuine OEM Honda regulator/rectifier to fix it.

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OEM part is on the way.  I only use OEM stuff. Not worth getting burned on the china aftermarket crap.  I just want to say thank you to all that have offered advise on this issue.  Your experience is gold to someone like me.  Also, to the contributor who posted the factory service manual for my ATV, If you're ever in Southern Wisconsin I will buy you a steak dinner.

 

Thanks all,

Jeff 

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Hi Guys,

Just wanted to follow up with you on my Rancher.  I got the new regulator/rectifier yesterday.  Plugged it in and ran the quad for a while.  The blinking 4 code is gone and it goes in and out of 4WD without a hitch.  Since I did the complete reset and initialization it shifts so much better now both in auto and ESP mode.  I think it really helped with the TPS as well.  It idles much smoother and the throttle response has improved significantly. It's like a whole new quad.

Only things left to do now is replace a bad choke cable and adjust the valves and this old Rancher should have many more years left in her.

 

Thanks again to everyone that offered help and advise.  After weeks of chasing my tail and wasting time and money you guys got me on the right track and I learned many things along the way.

I am truly thankful to all of you.

Jeff

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31 minutes ago, beer said:

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to follow up with you on my Rancher.  I got the new regulator/rectifier yesterday.  Plugged it in and ran the quad for a while.  The blinking 4 code is gone and it goes in and out of 4WD without a hitch.  Since I did the complete reset and initialization it shifts so much better now both in auto and ESP mode.  I think it really helped with the TPS as well.  It idles much smoother and the throttle response has improved significantly. It's like a whole new quad.

Only things left to do now is replace a bad choke cable and adjust the valves and this old Rancher should have many more years left in her.

 

Thanks again to everyone that offered help and advise.  After weeks of chasing my tail and wasting time and money you guys got me on the right track and I learned many things along the way.

I am truly thankful to all of you.

Jeff

 

Only one thing left to do Beer , have a beer !!! 

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Thanks for coming back and updating us!  It's always nice to see the resolution to a problem posted so that it can help others in the future who might be searching for the same problem.

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4 hours ago, beer said:

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to follow up with you on my Rancher.  I got the new regulator/rectifier yesterday.  Plugged it in and ran the quad for a while.  The blinking 4 code is gone and it goes in and out of 4WD without a hitch.  Since I did the complete reset and initialization it shifts so much better now both in auto and ESP mode.  I think it really helped with the TPS as well.  It idles much smoother and the throttle response has improved significantly. It's like a whole new quad.

Only things left to do now is replace a bad choke cable and adjust the valves and this old Rancher should have many more years left in her.

 

Thanks again to everyone that offered help and advise.  After weeks of chasing my tail and wasting time and money you guys got me on the right track and I learned many things along the way.

I am truly thankful to all of you.

Jeff

now..just because you got it fixed ?..does not mean you have to stay away from here !..lol.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, shadetree said:

now..just because you got it fixed ?..does not mean you have to stay away from here !..lol.

No problem with that. I have two other Hondas in the stable. A 2009 rancher AT and a 1985 TRX 125. Both working good now, but sure to need attention in the future 

Edited by beer

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