2001 rancher refresh

[bigcountry78 93]

5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

You'll have to unbolt the diff from the swingarm.  Unbolt the left axle tube from the diff, then the diff from the right axle tube and swingarm.  Pull diff loose, and you'll see the seals in the sides of the diff. 

 

There should be a bearing and seal on the brake backing plate as well, so might be better off pulling the brake backing plate off of the axle tube, replacing that seal.  That should keep any gear oil out of the brake. 

Oh ok, when I looked at some diagrams online I must have missed that seal. I was thinking there should be one there, but all I saw was the one up by the differential. The one out by the backing plate should be a lot easier to get to and replace. Thank you sir. I’ll do a bit more looking poking and prodding before I go tearing the diff out.

[jeepwm69 7,609]

#20 here. 

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2001/trx350fe-a-fourtrax-rancher-4x4-es/rear-brake-panel

[bigcountry78 93]

Man, you are awesome! Thank you!!

[bigcountry78 93]

While cruising Facebook this morning, I saw an ad for a rancher with what looks like a foreman 450 headlight and gauge pod. Does anyone have any information on this modification? Wondering if it’s a straight bolt on plug in affair.

[jeepwm69 7,609]

I don't have an 00-03 Rancher to look at, but looks like the guy had to get all 450 stuff and swap on.  Handlebar cover that holds ignition switch, headlight, headlight housing.

 

I did something similar to the 09 Rancher I had for the wife.  Had to take the headlight mounting bracket from an 05-06 Foreman, cut off what I needed to mount the headlight and housing, and then weld to the handlebars.

 

I think doing a 450 pod light on an 00-03 Rancher would be much more likely to bolt on given the meters are the same general size and shape.

 

https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/2004/trx450fe-a-fourtrax-foreman-es/headlight

 

 

[bigcountry78 93]

I might have to look into that. I like the idea of a third headlight pod. 
 

In other news, I got the oil seal and started to replace it today. I got everything apart down to the brake drum, and I can’t get it off. It’s irritating because it all came apart very easily a few months ago. Now everything is stuck. What have y’all done to get these off if they’re sticking? I’ve tried gently prying, but I’ve broken one piece off the backing plate and I’ve cracked another piece. I’ve sprayed the shaft down with wd-40 and will try again tomorrow.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I read on another site ,  when the drum is stuck really bad , you need to hit it with your other bigger purse , LOL 

 

All kidding aside , start with getting something better than WD-40 , Aero-Kroil is one of the best 

 

 

[bigcountry78 93]

1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

I read on another site ,  when the drum is stuck really bad , you need to hit it with your other bigger purse , LOL 

 

All kidding aside , start with getting something better than WD-40 , Aero-Kroil is one of the best 

 

 

I tried all three purses thank you. Lol if I could get a grip on it it probably wouldn’t be a problem. Thinking about seeing if I can slip some small cable behind it, then run my prybar through the cable to give me a handle.

[jeepwm69 7,609]

Make sure you've rotated the cam back to where  it's got all the pressure off of the brake shoes.  Normally what happens is the cam sticks a bit and has the brake shoes pushed out just a little, and they catch on the drum and keep it from coming off.

 

So work that cam back and forth while you're gently prying on the drum.

 

And yeah, sometimes they can be a PITA to get off, and I've wrecked more than one $$$ backing plate trying to get the drum off.

 

Make sure there's not an Oring where the outside of the drum meets the axle as well.  I don't think there should be on a 350, but there might be, and that will keep the drum from coming off easily as well.

[bigcountry78 93]

Got hot and aggravated and gave up for the time being. I’m fed up with rear drum brakes. My big bear kept giving me trouble with the adjustment mechanism and the parking brake seizing. I had high hopes for the rancher since it all came apart easily the first time. But now it’s same old same old. If I still had hair, I’d pull it out.

[AKATV 822]

I had to walk away from one recently, i came up with something that worked for me 

Make some stout hooks from coat hanger wire or welding rod etc

insert behind drum at 9 oclock and 3 oclock-ish so they go over drum but dont go over the brake shoes

put one bungee across the hooks( or rope wire etc). then runs a bugeee or ratchet strap from center of bungee or strap to to nearest solid object

i stretched out 2 to the garage door, (just enough pressure to almost pull it off the jackstands lol)

Then beat on drum with plastic or dead blow hammer and it will walk it off, helps to slightly turn opposite wheel

back and forth if you can, to help walk it off

Like Jeep said make sure brake cam is at center and not forcing shoes against drum, you will have to free it up if its frozen to find sweet spot

Watch out for last few strokes as it drum and bungees go flying, helps to have a helper, I did not, as usual lol

wear eye protection if things go flying (bungee hook to eye=bad)

you will find that the ! ring in the drum probably rusted and raised up catching the pads or pads corroded underneath at cam and raised up.. etc..

We've all cracked a few backing plates before, you can repair the edge with some stainless window screen and jb weld steelstick good enough to seal it back up -or just RTV the edge of the drum cover

Good luck!

AKATV

 

Edited August 24, 2023 by AKATV

[bigcountry78 93]

Yea I’m going to have to come up with something to hook behind the drum. Problem is I had it torn down on the carport, which my wife has claimed as “hers”. And she wanted it moved before her friends come over tomorrow. So I had to put everything back together to love it back out to the shop. So I’ll get back to it next week or so, my work schedule has me working this weekend, and then off next Monday Tuesday Friday Saturday and Sunday so I should have some time.

 

it’s times like these that I miss our old house. I had my 22’x25’ foot metal garage on concrete and could leave trucks or atvs torn down inside for however long I needed to. When we moved, I brought the garage with me but pouring concrete hasn’t been in the budget so I do all my work on the single carport. Unfortunately my wife parks there so I’m limited in how long something can sit there torn down.

[jeepwm69 7,609]

My wife cut out my engine building on the coffee table in the den, and all my work takes place in the yard now. 

[bigcountry78 93]

Women just seem to discount the importance of a comfortable workspace.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

21 minutes ago, bigcountry78 said:

 my wife has claimed as “hers”. And she wanted it moved before her friends come over tomorrow.

Sounds similar to  my friend's situation , he works , she don't , but , his  wallet , is kept in her purse >>--  LOL 

[bigcountry78 93]

Well it’s been. Minute but I decided to try this brake deal again today. I’ve been sick for the better part of two months with bronchitis and then pneumonia so that knocked me down for a while. Anyway I ended up making a couple of hooks to go behind the drum. Then I hooked a ratchet strap over to the frame of my garage. It still won’t budge. I think I have the brake shoes where they aren’t contacting the drum, but it’s hard to tell what’s going on back there. I guess I’ll keep beating on it and see where I get. I’m open to suggestions if anyone can see something I’m missing.

[AKATV 822]

You are definitely on the right track. Trust me I’ve had to do this probably five or six times.
Not sure how much tension or pressure you have on the drum with the pulling pressure from the hooks and strap I would keep tapping on it and see if it starts walking forward 

-you want to make sure your hooks aren’t catching the brake pads it looks like they’re in the right position at 9 o’clock and 3 o’clock

I actually use a thick rubber bungee in between my strap so that it keeps a constant, pulling pressure

Is your brake lever locked up or is it free?

You could have a slight pressure from the brake lever if it is locked up

I’ve also seen corroded pads that swell up underneath

You also might want to try a little bit of heat 

on the drum -just a little bit-also a squirt or two of whatever your favorite penetrating oil is around the axle splines -I use PB blaster

The drum, once you get it off also has an anti-vibration ring on the inner side that tends to get rust under that causes it to raise up and catch on the brake pads as well

I think a little patience, some heat, a little bit of pulling pressure and some tapping will get this off

let us know how you make out

-AKATV 

 

Edited November 20, 2023 by AKATV

[bigcountry78 93]

I’ve got the brake cables disconnected so I can move the brake pads by hand. Well, with a screw driver to overcome the sticking cam. Good idea on the heat, that’s something I hadn’t thought about yet. The pads looked new when I had it off around March, so I don’t think they have swollen. I’ll strap the other side of the frame to my mower so I can put more tension on the drum without having the whole atv fall off the stands. I’ll try some heat, thanks.

[AKATV 822]

One thing I forgot to ask, is, can you move the opposite tire?
A few times it seem to help having somebody rotate the tire just back-and-forth just like six or 8 inches in each direction while I was tapping on the brake drum

-AKATV

[bigcountry78 93]

58 minutes ago, AKATV said:

One thing I forgot to ask, is, can you move the opposite tire?
A few times it seem to help having somebody rotate the tire just back-and-forth just like six or 8 inches in each direction while I was tapping on the brake drum

-AKATV

Yes, I can rotate it, I just don’t have any help. But after I run a strap over to the mower and put some more pull on the drum, I can rotate the tire with one hand while I smack the drum with the other. Surely with all that movement and some heat something will give.

[AKATV 822]

I think you should be able to get it no problem.
Let us know how you make out.

-AKATV 

[bigcountry78 93]

4 hours ago, AKATV said:

I think you should be able to get it no problem.
Let us know how you make out.

-AKATV 

I will. And for reference, when I get the cam out I’m planning to sand it smooth and grease it. I’m curious though, from the factory, is that piece painted or polished at all? Is there something else I can do to improve it where it functions better, or longer?

[AKATV 822]

You’ll find that it’s not painted or polished really it’s just smooth steel and the lightest bit of rust gets these things seized up beyond belief

I think once you get it out just a quick wire brush and run a small wire brush in the  bore to clean it out then grease it up and then I usually push the cam in and out a few times and by that time it is easy enough to turn with your fingers

You’ll find on the outside once you remove the brake lever, the spring and the pointer there’s a little felt washer that’s pushed in around the shaft. It’s kind of like a seal, you can oil that or grease that to help keep some water out

But realistically, I think once you grease this,  it should be good for a long, time especially  if you stay out of the deep water

-AKATV

Edited November 21, 2023 by AKATV

[bigcountry78 93]

Thank you sir for all the information. I don’t do deep mud or water anymore, I saw the effects of that on my big bear that I sold earlier this year. It had a good bit of rust and some snapped bolts because of it. I spent a lot of labor on it to fix the damage done, and I got lucky to get this Honda that has lead an easy life for the most part. Planning on keeping this one forever so I’ll do my part to not abuse it. 

[bigcountry78 93]

Well, I’ve heated this thing up, beat on it, soaked it in pb blaster, and it’s not budging. At all. I can still move the cam with a screwdriver so it’s not touching the brake pads, it’s just stuck. Any more ideas before I just set the whole thing on fire?