Lawn tractors , yard machines

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

she looks rough ..... one wire alternator ? so the oem regulator is by passed .... a bent right hand front end axle strut , that must have been one heck of a hit / hole , right fender bracket welded ? wow! she's sure had a hard life,  it would have made a collectors dream, if it had been taken better care of. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

 

l1955 Fairbanks Morse RR21 mower, made by the Root Mfg Co in Baxter Springs KS.

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Do we have any tractor gurus here on the site ?   Where is the model number on a MTD tractor ? 

 

This tractor is a MTD Tradesman 1238 , 1238 are the only numbers I can find on it , that number doesn't really come up while  doing a MTD parts breakdown search , other than is was mostly likely  sold thru Sam's Club in the 90s -----

 

What I need is a new drive belt , and I want to make sure I get the right one and not guess from the old belt , as I am not sure the belt in it is even the right belt , the belt in it now is either stretched out  or  the wrong belt was put on it along the way , the problem that I was living with  was when the tractor was put in 7th gear or 8th , the pulley would  hit the frame and looks like the belt is too long and the arm over extending , well yesterday evening the problem  went to 6th gear and the pulley its now hitting in 6th , it has 8 gears , so it is getting slower 

 

Think if I guess and go with a smaller belt and it is too tight then it will not neutral 

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

i think the tag is under the seat. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

there are bolts, for the fender, welding was the only way to remove one, might have to do it again on the other side, DSCN2739.JPG, less ya got a better idea. i got no idea what the clutch petal stop is. as far as the front strut, or tie rod, thats what happens without an over run on the PTO, if your lucky. to take a large bolt out, froze up over that amount of time, good luck to ya. the break pedal is kinda normal, just has some wear at the tip. it sits low, but so does the other one. it would have been nice to find one that was kept in a barn, or garage, for the same price.

i did have a alternator and regulator, off an 85 ford truck.

a one wire alternator, has the regulator built in.

i had i one wire generator on the 55 chevy truck. just had to make mounting brackets for it. changed it from 6v to 12v. someone i know did the same thing, cost $400. after the rewiring and such.

only cost me $65, for the 1 wire generator, and the price of light bulbs, head lights /tail lights. the only mistake i made, was not putting a resister when i went to a 12 volt coil. after that, i had to change the plugs ever so often.

he's getting windy, better shut em up. 🙂

Edited November 24, 2020 by LedFTed

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

1 hour ago, LedFTed said:

as far as the front strut, or tie rod, thats what happens without an over run on the PTO, if your lucky.

 

on a closer look the housing was heated by a torch, because the oem bolts were seized up

 

1 hour ago, LedFTed said:

as far as the front strut, or tie rod, thats what happens without an over run on the PTO, if your lucky.

 

you can slow the pto rpm down via the motor, and use of the brakes. i ran ours with a heavy 7 foot bush hog for years, and that deal works every time, even to the point of having enough gear slack to take it out of pto drive, kind of like up / down shifting a semi without using the clutch except on pulling out, and reveres, but I'm in favor of the over run pto clutch. 

 

1 hour ago, LedFTed said:

the break pedal is kinda normal

 

??? the left side ? maybe for early year models, but not for later models. 

 

1 hour ago, LedFTed said:

a one wire alternator, has the regulator built in.

 

yes, i have rebuilt a few of those, and added them to six volt systems a inline resister to the coil is all thats needs for a 6 volt coil, no need for a 12 coil, just 12 v lights, and a 12 v battery. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

a 2 stage clutch is one where on a tractor trailer the clutch is depressed part way and unloads most of the power. If the clutch is fully depressed it will allow a brake function to happen and stop all torque that is applied to the transmission and allow the driver to put the truck back in gear if the driver is foolish enough to put the gearshift in neutral at a dead stop. 

 

most older semi's didn't have a transmition clutch brake, so it was the skilled driver behind the wheel, if the driver took the trans out of gear and let the clutch out, then the clutch brake (peddle fully depressed) is used to stop the trans gears from running in order to shift the truck into gear, then most drivers (skilled) never use the clutch again, (after pulling off) but rather the engine rpm / speed of the truck to cause the trans gears to mesh up. (in Order to up shift, or down shift)  i was the type that hardly ever used the clutch unless backing up, or pulling off from a dead stop, some use the jake brake for shifting, this i don't agree with, jakes used in that manor cause more hard drive train slap, and pre mature engine damage. (fact) 

 

On tractors like Ford, and other brands there is a two stage clutch that allows the operator to push on the clutch halfway causing the power to stop to the transmission. and the center shaft that is still turning inside of the outside shaft (stopped) the inside shaft is still engaged. This inside shaft is what powers the implements or the pto. To disengage everything the clutch is fully depressed unloading both layers of the clutch, i think yours might not have this type of system being it's a very old tractor. 

Edited November 25, 2020 by _Wilson_™

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

 

[LedFTed 1,127]

On 11/24/2020 at 11:36 AM, _Wilson_™ said:

 

on a closer look the housing was heated by a torch, because the oem bolts were seized up

 

 

you can slow the pto rpm down via the motor, and use of the brakes. i ran ours with a heavy 7 foot bush hog for years, and that deal works every time, even to the point of having enough gear slack to take it out of pto drive, kind of like up / down shifting a semi without using the clutch except on pulling out, and reveres, but I'm in favor of the over run pto clutch. 

 

 

??? the left side ? maybe for early year models, but not for later models. 

 

 

yes, i have rebuilt a few of those, and added them to six volt systems a inline resister to the coil is all thats needs for a 6 volt coil, no need for a 12 coil, just 12 v lights, and a 12 v battery. 

this is a 1946 model, things were different then, a war was going on around the world. the tractor didnt have the same things a modern tractor had. as ya said the brakes are at best, at least there., not much good for stopping. manual has a whole new meaning. not effective. i might have to add a hydraulic system. my weight dont carry so much on the brake pedals, an there are the hillsides to consider.

right now the tractor is a flat-lander as if there is any flat land. least some of the land is flatter than most. [i might be in for a fast ride],  on a hill, hope i can bail out, if i were to take it out of gear, all chance of braking is lost.

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

i understand hillside mowing, that when the hill can help, you  just slightly turn the wheel, and head sideways across the hill on a long path, believe me, I've been in some hairy ordeals working on hill sides with machines that would frighten most people off, you never do a straight up and down runs,  unless your VERY sure of your equiptment, yours looks like the front end can be extended, so i would think the rears might be ? or you could always flip the rear wheels like this (pic)  and with just pulling a BH the weight won't hurt, you might slide, but you won't flip, the narrow stance, on hills is what causes trouble on sideway use. yours has a 3 point ? i think i saw, so under the seat, there's a valve assembly to to change out (best i recall) then you add two coupler hydraulic hoses,,but those valve assembly's are very rare, and expensive, post me some pics with the seat flipped up or removed, and i might be able to help you out. the hydraulic pump should be on the right hand side of the engine torwards the back. (from the seat veiw) 

[LedFTed 1,127]

i have extended out the wheels, not all the way, nor added calcium to hold it to the ground, in the back tires. the brakes are a different matter. i dont know if they can be improved on. thats a nice red in the photo. i had a different color in mind, still a ford color. i understand the need to go sideways on a steep hill. lucky that the hills here dont go much over 40 degrees for the most part. only some does. it took about two weeks for bars in the back to leak down, still havent touched the ground. were at half mast, to start with.

[its nice that the timer didn't shut off, i forgot to post. for i left to go to town. 20 ,or so miles back an forth, an i just realized this happened. plus i spent more time doing something else. couldnt have been more that an hour or so.]

Edited November 27, 2020 by LedFTed

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

just take the whole back wheel plus rim off, and flip them like in the pic, some have defrent wheel extend options but yours looks like our 4000, so the only option is flipping them like those in the pic, bars ? you meant bars aka three point hitch leeks down ? most of the older one did, the lift cylinder piston backing, and o-ring probably need replacing, but if they took about two weeks i wouldn't worry about it at this time. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

[Fishfiles 20,145]

https://www.facebook.com/adam.baxley.1/videos/4177128432327607

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

Ted what do you say lets move this to the farm thread, if it's going to get technical, i dont want to choke this thread with alot of tech talk I'd be glad to help you with your ford tractor, in my book those are classics, at one time the most popular tractor in the states, and still remain very popular to this day, if well taken care of they were as dependable as a 300 honda.

[LedFTed 1,127]

On 11/27/2020 at 7:37 PM, _Wilson_™ said:

Ted what do you say lets move this to the farm thread, if it's going to get technical, i dont want to choke this thread with alot of tech talk I'd be glad to help you with your ford tractor, in my book those are classics, at one time the most popular tractor in the states, and still remain very popular to this day, if well taken care of they were as dependable as a 300 honda.

i dont mind a bit. Them 46 ford tractors, you can still get parts for.

 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

[Fishfiles 20,145]

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

now that's slick, i bet this gets jeeps attention... lol 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

interesting single pivot stick steering, no peddle for shifting gears, i take it the final drives are controled also by the stick, see what looks like shift linkage rods. from them to the stick, I'd like t take a closer look at this old classic. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

46 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

interesting single pivot stick steering, no peddle for shifting gears, i take it the final drives are controled also by the stick, see what looks like shift linkage rods. from them to the stick, I'd like t take a closer look at this old classic. 

This is all he has about it , no more pics ,  I am a member of a lawn tractor forum , think you would like it 

 

Quote " I lost my storage space and sadly need to lighten the inventory at my home. I have for sale a 1959 simplicity wonder boy branded as a Montgomery Ward Garden Mark Lawn Trac. It's in working condition with a predator engine on it, no modification of any kind has been done to the mower, and included will be the original 4hp Clinton. The original engine is non running but fixable. I am asking $450. Located in Minneapolis Minnesota. " Quote 

 

Another guy followed up with this 

 

Quote " I have the same one. I use to have a 57? Under the Wards name. The first generation with the single speed transmission kinda sucks. " 

[_Wilson_™ 6,566]

yeah, send me the link to the forums, i enjoy learning about those old classic machines, when they were build to last. not like this newer junk nowa days. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

23 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

yeah, send me the link to the forums, i enjoy learning about those old classic machines, when they were build to last. not like this newer junk nowa days. 

It is on facebook , can you do it ? 

 

https://www.facebook.com/groups/319169334936343

[Fishfiles 20,145]