retro

Ok, it appears that the Green/White wire is not providing a frame ground like it should. You mentioned earlier that there is no continuity in the Black/yellow wire between the CDI and the Ign coil as well. So ya got at least two wires that read open so far.... Lets test as many others as we can, eh? With the Ign switch on, trans in neutral, multimeter on DC volts mode, poke your Red meter lead into the Black/White terminal inside the CDI harness connector and poke your Black meter lead into the Light Green/Red wire terminal inside the CDI harness connector. You should measure battery voltage. If not, holler.... With the Ign. switch off, multimeter in Resistance mode, poke the Red meter lead into the Light Blue wire terminal inside the CDI harness connector and poke your Black meter lead onto a clean frame ground. You should measure between 9.5k ohms and 10.5k ohms (9,500 ohms and 10,500 ohms) resistance. If not, holler.... With the Ign. switch off, multimeter in Resistance mode, poke the Red meter lead into the Blue/Yellow wire terminal inside the CDI harness connector and poke your Black meter lead onto a clean frame ground. You should measure somewhere around 300 to 335 ohms resistance. If not, holler.... Thanks for your patience!

No you're right, the alternator charges the battery, but the Rancher has a no-spark issue and won't start. Stator windings are not part of the ignition circuit. The pulse gen is part of it though, but open wiring to & from the CDI seems to be issue so far.

Hi Shade, This is a battery powered DC ignition system rather than AC stator windings energized. This Rancher seems to have at least two open circuit wires inside the harness... we just getting started on identifying those.

No point in waiting for my next question.... It sounds like you've taken the fenders off and inspected all of the harness connectors and cleaned up the motor and frame grounds. Did you find any damaged wiring where the harnesses may have rubbed against the frame (inside the bends where they wrap around frame tubing)? Were there any wet, dirty, corroded pins or spades, inside any of the connectors? Did you notice any connectors that appeared to have overheated (melting plastic surrounding terminals, discolored terminals, etc.)?

Hi Chesnuts54, Did the used CDI and the used Regulator/Rectifier come off from the same year and model Rancher as yours? Lets get back to this in a bit. But first lets talk about this: With the CDI unplugged from the harness, you're saying that you measure DC battery voltage between the Black/White and the Green/White inside the CDI harness connector while the ignition switch is turned on.... but when measuring DC voltage between the Black/White inside the CDI harness connector and frame ground (with ignition switch on) you measure nothing? If I'm following you right then double check that you're touching a clean & shiny frame ground with your black multimeter lead and confirm to us the result before we go any further.

Project Manager, Architech, Engineer, Builder, Beautiful!!!! If ya aren't busy next week FF....

My neighbor just found himself in a similar situation as your dad's. Neighbor is buying the 180 acres with a camp on it that borders his camp property, which butts up against my land. He went back there to look his new land over and he found No Trespassing signs nailed to trees everywhere along the two-track that goes past the camp and runs the length of the woods. He found cellular cameras along the road and he found a popup blind on the edge of a powerline that crosses the front 40. The trails are rutted up by a pickup truck or maybe two.... and he was told by the previous owner that no one had permission to hunt back there before he bought the property. So now he's gathering all the stuff up that he found and taking the stuff to his camp, cell cams and all. He's gonna put a gate up tomorrow, so the owners of all that stuff are gonna have to come out and talk to my buddy about getting their stuff back. We're thinking they likely have a few tree stands set up out there too, so maybe there's a few hundred bucks worth of equipment still out there. My buddy says he's gonna make them fix the damages they made to his trails and two-track, so there might be some cussing goin' on next door shortly. :)

I pulled all of my Deer stands out of the woods yesterday because no one was around to hunt out of them. My friends are slaving when they should be hunting this year, me thinks. Oh well, it was a lot of fun. Got lots of good bucks here and they'll all be bigger next year! On a sour note, it was a bad season for bear here, worse I've ever seen. No one even wanted to hunt bear after the first week of the season passed with only one big boar showing up -- just a couple times during the night. So the bear stands were yanked early on. I may not set up for bear again, so many have too little time to hunt. It's becoming a waste of my time... maybe someone can change my mind next year? I'm still shooting my crossbow for fun; but the days are getting colder and wetter now, so I'm gonna have to put that down too, pretty soon. It's held it's tune over from last summer through the entire summer this year, I'm still punching 1 inch dots out to 100 yards on every shot. I need to find a new custom arrows guru this winter though, cause the guy who made all of my arrows for me sold out and the quality isn't good anymore. I need to buy a dozen, made to my specs.... Anyone know who the best arrow maker in the world is now?

The OP updated a prior post rather than update us in a new post. Sneaky one that waterworld fellah....

Old thread, different Rancher, but.... Your issue appears to be the same issue the original poster had. You'll find that solution explained earlier in this thread. If ya want a shortcut to the revealing of the fix rather than read the thread, skip to this post, read the explanation of the fault, look at the diagram and find & shine up the negative battery cable frame ground. If you still have no spark after cleaning up all of the grounds start a new thread in this section so we can help ya troubleshoot your issue further. Welcome to ATVHonda!

No unfortunately, none of the above... If you want an ES model or a DCT model you'll have to trade in for one. Converting a manual shift to ES shift would be a massive project.

When the Air Cutoff valve is regulating air through the port correctly at all times, it's function prevents backfiring on deceleration. So make sure that the object that you saw fly out of the air cutoff port was not the brass orifice (which is sandwiched between the valve and the carb body when the valve is installed), or the sealing o-ring that fits over the end of that orifice and seals the orifice within the port. If any of those parts are missing (the brass orifice or one of the o-rings) the port will suck air full time which will allow air to be introduced into the idle circuit on deceleration, which can cause residual idle circuit fuel to ignite inside the exhaust and create an occasional backfire. A Shindy kit will work as good as OEM in most cases. However, if you ever put a Shindy kit inside a Honda carb in the future, cleaning and reusing the original OEM brass jets is the best practice IF you can get them perfectly clean -- because OEM (Keihin) jets are made to meet tighter tolerances than aftermarket parts are. The only exception that I ever make is when I can see wear along the tapered length of the Jet Needle, and/or see some small amount of wear inside the brass Needle jet. Once those two parts begin to wear into each other (caused by the movement of the Jet Neddle with the throttle) they should be replaced with the Shindy kit parts. If they're in perfect condition reuse them. Also never throw away any of the OEM carb parts that you replace. Keep them at least until you are satisfied that the new parts inside the carb are working as they should. I never toss those parts out because I feel that OEM parts are more valuable than aftermarket parts. I won't even replace an OEM float valve with one from a kit unless the viton rubber tapered tip is worn out beyond the point that I cannot restore it in 30 seconds of effort. OEM is the best stuff, always. OK, it's that time in this post to again provide some more info that you may already know.... :) Do not ever try to replace any part on a Honda ATV with aftermarket cheap china knockoffs purchased from any source (Shindy kits do work because they are Japanese) . Everything china is garbage, none of it ever works and in some cases china parts fry perfectly good (expensive) OEM parts the moment you plug them in. Use OEM Honda parts with OEM part numbers only. Buy just once... and you'll cry just once as they say.... This is the first thing most inexperienced Honda folks learn when they join us. Trust us, there are no exceptions to this fact, we've seen the carnage a gazillion times over a gazillion years now it seems, and it still makes us feel really bad when we have to welcome a new member with such bad news... Awesome! Updates are what we live for here! Thanks and looking forward to hear more from ya Scar!

Congrats! Thanks for letting us know that you fixed it!

No and it's silly because there is no such entity as a satan character just as there is no such entity as the god of israel or any of the gods in the bibles. Satan is a literary dialectic inversion necessary for support of the literary jesus/god mind control construct. It's all lies written by immoral men, aka 'the chosen ones', aka 'the parasite race'. Check out the religion practiced by men who operate 'the church of satan'. It's the chosen ones practicing their black magik immorality again....

Yeah keep going! Check out Cymatics too! Sound creates light as well as disease and healing!!! Look at the stars in the sky through a decent telescope and you'll see them vibrating in patterns and they are lit up by their frequency. Keep going!

Yup! You left out the 'chosen ones' though, who are at the root of the conspiracy. The comparisons between 432 and 440 really are deeply felt aren't they! The harmful 440 begins it's chaos and destruction on our bodies, mind and spirit immediately! While 432 immediately provides a calming, ordered beauty, musical effect. There is so much more experimental & scientific research available out there to learn from.

Also I forgot to mention that a leak in the exhaust system can cause backfiring since a leak allows air to enter to support residual fuel combustion inside the pipes. But more commonly it's caused by a lean running motor, which a clogged carb condition creates.

Thanks for sharing more details! This helps a lot. First question: Was the carb kit you put in the carb a genuine Shindy (brand) kit? The reason I ask is because no other aftermarket carb kit brand have ever worked on a Honda ATV. They're all chinese knockoffs with inferior (incorrect) parts that destroy the functions of the carb. If the kit you put in your 450 carb was not OEM or Shindy, then you'll have to put all of the original metal parts back in the carb. Assuming that you have good non-china parts in the carb, and the fact that the motor backfires and behaves similar to it's behavior before the teardown, it's highly likely that the only issue remaining with it is a still dirty/plugged carb jet or passage. No amount of adjustments will ever solve those kind of problems. Sometimes a clog can be a bugger to get out. Let us know if you can't get the carb clean so we can help. Also make sure that you follow the service manual steps in the Fuel system section when reassembling the carb to insure that it's set up right. Remaining true to my habit, here is some more info you may not ever need. :) The service manual for your 450 (and most other Honda ATVs) can be downloaded from the link in the menubar at the top of every page. Here is a link that will save you a few clicks.... the 1st manual of the two that are listed is the one that you want. https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/15eWwngQ5SdlsIfbgpm5ZJWJYBYx3vJ7s

It's called the Solfeggio tuning frequency. 432 hz is a natural healing frequency rather than a synthetic harmful replacement freq like 440 hz is. You can look that up and find tons of info about it. Here's some stuff on the matter from one of my favorite practicioners; https://www.youtube.com/c/ConspiracyMusicGuru/videos Hope you like and will share Alex's educational music. :)

Yeah for sure! My first thought was the original Iron Maiden band (late 1960s). then my mind went straight to Black Sabbath next. Both of those bands were Metallica -- prior to their renaming from Iron Maiden to become Black Sabbath, then Metallica. The lyrics reminded me of Black Sabbath right away. Then I thought about Richie Blackmore & Ronnie James Dio of their band ELF, which after their first album they renamed from ELF to Rainbow. The lyrics are similar to some of the Monster Truck stuff and the second (name stealing) Iron Maiden band formed by Steve Harris in 1975. The lyrics themselves remind me of the Bolshevik revolution where the Jewish elite banksters invaded Russia and genocided 10 million Russians, converting Russia from a moral country to an immoral satanic jewish one, in order to create a boogie man for the USA to compete and fight with following WWII -- to set up their present day fake gog/magog holy war. Musically, I don't care so much about old school hard rock anymore... I still listen to it sometimes, but I now find it to be almost completely unmusical chaos.... it feels evil and inverted. All of the old stuff (and most of the new) was recorded in base 440 hertz while 432 hertz recordings are much more musical, pleasant, naturally sounding and peaceful. I've since learned the reason why I can't listen to much of the hard stuff anymore.... It was Goebbels of Nazi Germany that changed our music from the natural 432 hertz base to 440 hertz. The royals, freemasons and jews have ran with it thereafter and completely destroyed the value of music.

You might be right if you've come across conflicting info on forums. There's a lot of troubleshooters out there shooting their arrows in the dark. :) Yes, if there is spark, compression and fuel the motor should run - unless the valve timing is off, or the ignition timing is off, or a 3rd possibility in your case; the exhaust system is plugged up with oily carbon deposits. Yes, the no neutral light condition by itself cannot prevent the motor from running.... provided you have spark and the starter works. If you did not have spark and the starter did not crank the motor, then the first suspect would be a faulty gear position switch, because that switch provides the negative ground circuits (through the Light Green/Red stripe wire) to complete both the ignition system circuit, and the starter solenoid circuit, as well as the neutral light and the "N" indicator on the display meter. If that switch were not providing a ground (an open circuit condition) while in neutral, the starter would not crank and there would be no spark and no neutral indicators on the display. The machine will operate just fine without the display plugged in, so for the time being we can focus on the no-start condition, then dive into the neutral light/meter issue later. However, a gear position switch can fail in two ways -- either in open circuit conditions which is loosely explained above, or in a closed circuit condition (shorted) when it shouldn't be. In a prior post you mentioned that the gear indicator in the display meter shows only R,N,1,-,-,-,5 -- which can be a symptom of a faulty meter -- or possibly is a symptom of a shorted (closed condition) gear position switch (closed circuit condition in every gear position, providing a ground in gears that it's not supposed to). The reason for that line of thinking is the fact that on a 450 Foreman ES, the gear position switch must only provide grounds when the transmission is shifted into reverse, neutral, first, and fifth gears. The display meter calculates which one of the second, third, and fourth gears that the transmission is shifted into by counting the ES shifts up and down between the first and fifth gears. I hope these explanations are a bit clearer than mud.... I'm a poor communicator when typing stuff. But I try to provide enough info to folks so that they'll understand how the stuff works that they're working on.... our work is easy once we got a complete picture in our mind.... and since this thread might help many others that find it later on, I tend to rant on a bit too much about stuff. Just ignore me when I explain things you already know. :)

I should have mentioned.... pour only about 1/4 ounce of gas into the cylinder through the spark plug hole. If you pour in too much gas the spark plug will get too wet to produce spark and the motor may not attempt to start. If the spark plug appears to be wet when you remove it that means it probably has too much fuel in the cylinder already. In that case crank the motor over with the starter for a few seconds while the spark plug is out (and grounded on the head) to clear and dry out the cylinder. You can dry off the spark plug by flushing the end of it with rubbing alcohol then allow the alcohol to evaporate for a couple minutes. The spark plug should be dry when you reinstall it. After you put 1/4 ounce of gas in the cylinder and put the plug back in, slightly open the throttle a bit while you try to start it.... to give the motor some extra air. It should fire and run for a second or two.

The gear position switch controls the Neutral light. Do not cut any wires... and let us know if there are any cut or broken wiring on it. You said the neutral light is not working, but the motor cranks over with the starter and the ignition produces spark, correct? If that's the case then the gear position switch is functional and is providing the starter solenoid and the ignition with negative grounds through the Light Green/Red stripe wire. So that indicates that the neutral light is not working or not getting it's ground through the Light Green/Red stripe wire. You'd test for that ground at the harness connector for the Display meter. Are all of the other gears being displayed on the screen of the meter? Does the shift motor shift through gears normally while you are rocking the Foreman back and forth?

If you suspect that the cylinder may be dry of lubricating oil (due to excessive cranking since the top end was assembled) then you can add a bit of 2-stroke oil to your primer gas that you pour into the cylinder. Chainsaw premix gas will work OK if ya got a can mixed up and handy.

Well you claim that it has spark and compression - so that leaves you with a possible fuel issue, or a possible valve timing or ignition timing issue, preventing the motor from starting. By adding a small amount of gas to the cylinder you are providing the necessary amount of fuel to make it run briefly. As an alternative you can shoot a short blast of Starting fluid into the intake after removing the air filter. Pick your poison....