retro

Ok good! Remove the fried ignition coil and the china relay that you installed. Toss them both in the trash. Let me know when you're done. We'll get to that in a minute..... There is a shorted circuit somewhere. Most likely caused by one (or both) of the china parts that you installed. We see this sort of problem quite often. Daily sometimes.... China parts are garbage and can sometimes destroy other expensive parts, including wiring harnesses. Do you still have the original relay that you removed from your Rancher?

China parts cause expensive OEM parts to go up in smoke. We see this all the time. Don't worry, disconnect the battery then read back through my posts and answer my questions so we can get started on troubleshooting it.

Disconnect the negative (black) battery cable from the battery. Read the posts I've made above and answer my questions, so I can help you fix it.

@Mach 1 don't freak out, what you are experiencing is common. We see these problems weekly, sometimes daily here.... folks replace a part (or several parts) with cheap china stuff and then all 'ell breaks loose. Answer questions and follow instructions carefully and we'll probably fix it.... you'll need to buy another genuine Honda ignition coil. While you're waiting for that coil we'll diagnose the problem. Do not plug any non-OEM part in while we are diagnosing it.

Ok, unplug the china relay that you installed and remove it. Unplug the ignition coil and remove it. Toss them both in the trash can. China parts do not work on Honda's, they're garbage, and sometimes cause other expensive parts to fry. Install the original OEM Honda relay that you previously removed, if you still have it? It sounds like one of the 30 amp fuses have now blown. Check all of the fuses and let us know what you found when you've got the OEM relay back on your Rancher. We'll be doing some testing.... do you have a 12 volt test light and a decent multimeter?

Are there any parts on your Rancher that are not genuine Honda parts? We can't go any further until this question is answered.

Yep, it sounds like the Engine Stop Relay is stuck now too, since the coil fried while the ignition switch was turned off? Gotta find out if any parts have been replaced with non-OEM, replace those with OEM parts if any, then test the stop relay and the coil G/Y wire circuit and the coil B/R wire circuit. I strongly suspect china part(s).

Well that ignition coil is fried! Are there any aftermarket parts on your Rancher? Unplug that coil and don't plug it back in, you'll need to get another genuine Honda ignition coil. Do you have a 12 volt test light and a decent multimeter?

@AKATV will be along shortly RancherMan. Welcome to the forums!

I assume you've verified the fuses are all good.... a common issue I see often in my area are bad/rusty grounds. Here is an older Rancher with no spark that only had a bad ground:

Here is an image of the wiring diagram for your Rancher you can use for reference.

Do you have an auto-ranging multimeter? Try this: With your multimeter set on resistance mode, ignition switch off, CDI unplugged, probe your red multimeter lead into the Blue/Yellow wire CDI harness connector terminal and probe your black multimeter lead into the Green/White wire CDI harness connector terminal. Let us know the resistance reading you got.

With the motor running, does your Rubicon try to move when you shift into D1, D2, or R? Take the spark plug out and lay it on the motor with the spark plug wire plugged into the spark plug. Turn the ignition switch on, shift into D1, then use the recoil starter rope to crank the motor over.... do you see spark across the spark plug gap while you are pulling on the recoil rope? Con el motor en marcha, ¿intenta su Rubicon moverse cuando cambia a D1, D2 o R? Saque la bujía y colóquela en el motor con el cable de la bujía enchufado a la bujía. Encienda el interruptor de encendido, cambie a D1, luego use la cuerda del arrancador de retroceso para hacer girar el motor... ¿Ve chispas a través del espacio de la bujía mientras tira de la cuerda de retroceso?

I may be able to help you but I am busy today. I will try to come back tomorrow. Are all of the electrical parts on your Rubicon genuine Honda parts? Aftermarket parts do not work at all so you must be sure! Quizás pueda ayudarte, pero hoy estoy ocupado. Intentaré volver mañana. ¿Todas las piezas eléctricas de su Rubicon son piezas originales de Honda? Las piezas de repuesto no funcionan en absoluto, ¡así que debes estar seguro!

The Black/yellow inside the CDI connector provides voltage to the ignition coil, so you should be measuring in resistance mode (between Black/yellow and ground) rather than continuity mode. I am busy now but I'll be back as soon as I can to help you troubleshoot. If there are any aftermarket electrical parts on your Rancher you'll need to replace them with genuine Honda parts before troubleshooting. Aftermarket parts do not work at all --- and in some cases fry other expensive OEM parts the moment they are plugged in. Be back later....

@AKATV Welcome Joseph!

The OEM part number for the vent hose is 17521-HA2-670. Rocky Mountain ATV has them for $5.81 plus tax & shipping. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-parts/Honda

Rocky Mountain ATV has the OEM switch for $66.71 plus tax & shipping. https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/oem-schematic/7 It is #6 on the Left Crankcase Cover parts fiche.

Hi Morph, welcome to the forums! We like pics!

VS was running data mining scripts on us back before we all left. I got in the Admins' face about them and he refused to comment about those scripts. I had copies of those scripts so he had no defense. I had blocked them via my firewall and browser so I wasn't victimized by them, but everyone else was. All of VS' sites are data mining & surveillance operations.

The heating of the clamps and cables are 100% caused by poor, high resistance connections where the cables attach to the clamps. If you can shine up the stranded copper wire and the clamps and solder those cables down, that will fix it forever.

Hope you can get a refund for that turd!

Congrats! What was your final issue then?

If you have soldering equipment you might be able to fix that broken off wire.

Amazon/eBay parts are junk and do not work on Honda ATVs. Genuine Honda parts are necessary when replacing parts. First thing you need to do is test your starter though, before buying a replacement. You'll need a set of ordinary jumper cables.... and a known good 12 volt battery. You can use the battery that is in your Honda if it is fully charged, or a car/truck battery. To test the starter with jumper cables, clamp the Positive (red) jumper cable clamp onto the Positive (red) post of a known good battery. Clamp the other Positive (red) cable clamp onto the Positive post (where you removed the red cable from the starter, it is a threaded stud with a nut) of the starter motor. Be careful that you clamp the Positive (red) clamp onto the stud & nut post only, do not allow any part of the clamp to touch the starter body. Then clamp the Negative (black) cable clamp to your known good battery. You now have both the Positive and the Negative jumper cables attached to your battery, and you have the other Positive cable clamp attached to the starter motor positive post. One Negative (black) cable clamp remains unattached. Finally, while holding onto the starter motor tightly, touch the remaining Negative (black) cable clamp onto the metal body of the starter motor. If the starter is a good one the motor will twist/jump sharply in your grip and immediately spin at a high speed. If the starter motor is failing or has failed, it either will refuse to run or it will run very slowly. A good starter motor is robust and powerful, it will attempt to twist out of your hand when testing. If your starter motor fails the test, provide the model of your Honda here in this thread so we can help you locate a replacement. Let us know how it goes....