Misterclean

Thanks.......it was easy. The twist throttle was a great modification. LOL Let's see how many people complain about how dangerous a twist throttle is on a four wheeler. 

My brother in law is coming over tomorrow so we can replace the handlebars and install a twist throttle on his 2009 TRX 420 electric shift. I looked on You Tube for a tutorial for removing the display screen but nothing is available. Any help out there? Thanks in advance.

Hey Sled, try the rotary part # 31-8786 for ignition problems on those old saws. It replaces points on breaker ignitions and it replaced the external capacitor on that type as well. It also makes many solid state modules spark again if the internal capacitor is bad. Just wire it inline on the kill wire. It's been many many years since I've even held one in my hands so  hope the info is correct. It is still available.

13 minutes ago, sled_22 said:

This also happened to come home with me today. Lots of sold saws and saving for this bad boy. Hopefully she last 20 years. 

I like me a new Stihl!! I've only bought two new Stihls in my life.

1 hour ago, sled_22 said:

Here's some finished pictures of my Super XL Homie (other than dogs which I'm hoping to find friday). It's pretty sweet looking in my opinion. I'm waffling over adding it to the collection or trying to sell it for a decent price to put towards the new saw.

 

Those are great saws. I've been in the repair business since June of 1983 and they were popular back then. They weren't the fastest cutting saw but reliable. You probably won't get much for it so just hang on to it and enjoy it for what it is. Hint.......that stumble may be the metering lever too high or the high speed screw too rich. Also the Idle mixture sounds a little lean and a little too fast. Adjust the high speed screw so the engine "four cycles" at full throttle no load and smooths out to "two cycling" under a moderate load.

28 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

So when basically run the bike to warm up. Pull the valve cover and plus. Stick finger in spark hole and turn the flywheel and try and feel the suck and push through  exhaust and compression strokes at plug hole?

I think  he wants you to hit the electric starter. I have a suggestion.....when it's hot and won't start, pull the spark plug and stick a screw driver in the cap and make the spark jump to a fin. It should be at least 3/8" to an 1/2". If not you have weak spark. Then unscrew the plastic cap off the coil wire and cut about 3'8" off and screw into fresh wire....I had this happen only once or twice but worth a try. 

11 hours ago, toodeep said:

 

I haven't read through the whole thread yet but I'll quote this one because it's true yet the 450 was good for the spring to break inside the adjuster and you could have an instant on/off chain noise that eventually turned into a constant chain noise. I'm use to pretty much all the motors so in person noises I can usually narrow things down. Videos pick up too much detail and a perfect motor will make noises that are normal, yet seem loud on video. When i get some time I'll try to catch up a little more on this topic and see if i can add in a few ideas.

toodeep, good suggestion! It does seem to come and go a little but the loud metal tin tapping sound would be something else correct?

5 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I'm guilty of that @Misterclean, but every time I do it, it ends up being a big nothingburger.

 

I'm trying to just relax and live my life, and stay prepared as best as I can for whatever comes. 

I appreciate your cander Jeep. Me too, just not this time. LOL

3 hours ago, freebo86 said:

 

 

You guys missed the below sentence? Listen to the engine starting at about 1:25minutes. Do you hear then still?

 

From my video post on that page.

 

It sounded like the chain was slapping. I shouldn't be able to hear it that loudly regardless of the idle speed. In fact a loping idle helps identify a loose chain. Again, I can't be sure of anything. I'm just giving my opinion after 37.5 years of professional experience. Hope this helps.

3 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

MC , you know this is a older thread , but I am with you , I know a few people bought into CFM , all were disasters ---electrical melt down , running hot and melting the plastics , catching on fire ----  junk 

LOL, didn't see the post date. I am getting caught up on this site. I haven't been here much because all the covid talk mixed up with dooms days predictions turned me off quite a bit. I'm very conservative but I've learned to not get scared and allow the worst case scenarios get in my head. They did several times thru the decades and I've learned one thing.......most if not all the bad predictions are just plain false.........it gives me a stomach ache to hear my conservative friends get all worked up. Sorry for venting but I felt it needed to be said.

15 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

on the 1st video (3rd page) just after you start it.. there's another heavy  knock along with the tick.... anyone else hear that ? Me too. It may be chain slap. Tough to tell because we aren't there.

I think that's chain slap?

This examination via you tube is getting interesting. I hope too many worms don't get out of the can. It is important to strongly consider that two or three things are happening here. The running problem is almost certainly a carb problem. I would do the total carb job as already suggested but I would also drain the fuel tank and inspect it just to be absolutely sure. Disassemble the petcock too. The intermittent sound may be some sheet metal on the heat shield or something similar. I can't imagine what it could be on the inside that could make an intermittent sound like that. Obviously we aren't there in person so our intuition is limited. I'm almost certain I heard cam chain slap. Slap can vary in it's sounds because of the harmonics involved and with the thump of the engine. I'm almost certain it's harmonics causing the tin sound coming and going too. We are anxiously waiting for your next action.......well I am/ LOL

My brother in law just bought a 2009 TRX 420, for $3,200. Very clean, power steering, electric shift, 2wd, very nice wheels and tires. I'd do that any day over a new chinese wheeler for the same price.

20 hours ago, freebo86 said:

took them off, both are flat. Exhaust and intake, also on the lifter? The end that the screw pushes against is flat no concave or mushrooms like caps..

 

may be hard to see but they appear to be nice and even..
 

 

 

Those valves are way too loose. I can see the gap. I think you made a mistake. Make sure you are looking at thousanths not metric. I had a professional mechanic replace a head gasket on a Honda Accord and he set the valves using the metric number but looked at the wrong number on the gauge. I think you made a mistake somewhere.....that's all that makes sense to me right now.

I think your response was translated poorly.  I don't think the combustion chamber was dirty.  Please try another translation. We want to know the answer to your problem. Thanks.

On 12/21/2020 at 3:30 AM, Pampas56 said:

The editor posted the pictures but not the text.

 

This is the saw that I just bought at the local pawn store.  Stihl 028AV super with 20" bar, 250 plus tax and it runs and cuts pretty well.

 

The running joke is that I run my saw less time than most of you guys spend filing the saw.  I bought this to replace a hard starting Craftsman saw that probably isn't worth fixing.  It will sit in the garage for months at a time,  but I hope it will start each time by the 5th pull 

 

I am not sure what fuel/oil ratio is because i can't find any labels on the saw.  My brother and a buddy that clears trees on the powerline run theirs 50:1.  Would I be OK with that or would a little more oil be better?  I plan to run 30wt oil for bar oil.

 

The 20" bar is fine, but I am curious what the biggest bar is that this saw will handle well.  If I run across a deal on a longer bar I would buy it if it would work.

 

Thanks for any help or insights.

Steve

 

 

Run a synthetic oil at 32 to 1. That's an old saw and you are running a worn cylinder.......it's gonna need all the help you can give it. Also run bar chain lube only!!!!!!!! It is very thick and tacky. You will wear out your bar, chain and both sprockets prematurely.

I thought it just added air on deceleration or at least that's what is does on street bikes. It stopped the popping from unburned fuel exploding in the exhaust system.

When I worked offshore in the early eighties we would soak capacitors in something like varsol . The next morning you would see a tiny droplet of sea water at the bottom of the container and it would usually work again. Later after I went into business for myself an old 1981? YZ250 came into the shop with no spark. I soaked the stator overnight in gasoline (No mineral spirits) and it worked!.

Sled, that's a great price! Scroll down and have a look at the ring compressor kit for $11.00. I've done a few of these top ends and the ring compressor and rod holder would be nice. Is the cylinder plated? The description didn't mention that.

Find a way to check spark at the spark plug while it is running. This procedure will determine spark. Also you can spray some Carburetor cleaner in the throttle body when it is running poorly. If it runs better then it is a fuel problem. I seriously doubt it is a compression problem however there is a very small chance that a valve is sticking at higher engine speeds.

I had a very enjoyable evening yesterday because I listened to E.L.P. "Triology", Steely Dan "Aja" and Super Tramp "Breakfast in America" on my old direct drive turntable for the first time in about 25 years. I was at my oldest daughter's house with her great husband, laying on the floor with my six month old grand daughter. Need I say more?!!!

RubiDan....yes it can be addictive. We got the turntable going last night. Took us  day to figure out that the turn table required a pre amp to function so we got out an old Akai receiver and used it's "Phono" connections as the pre amp and redirected it back to the other amp. Now we are discussing building speaker from scratch or just putting better speakers in existing speaker boxes. I want to go with a big 15" woofer setup but that will require a special build. It's gonna be fun what ever we do.

It still sounds like the IACV to me. Clean it better a second time. 

I received the needle today. I was expecting the cartridge! False advertising.........I will let Y'all know how it turns out.

37 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

With it being NOS, probably $1K+.

 

I got it for $125 about 15 years ago (I thought more about when I got it and it was probably @2005), before the "all original" craze hit CJ's.

 

I remember getting my first CJ, giving away the stock wheels (bought Cragars), hacking the dash for a DIN stereo (original were 2 shaft type), pulling a bunch of the original stuff off and putting JC Whitney crap all over it.

 

Now I wish I'd left it alone!

 

 

"JC Whitney Crap" LOL.....you got that right.