Misterclean

That's an interesting combo....... CB, am,fm with push button selector. Probably worth mucho for the Jeep crowd.

17 hours ago, sled_22 said:

Here’s some pictures of my muffler mod. First couple are from my 290 fully opened up and my ms310 where I just joined the two exit ports into one. 

That is a great mod for the 290. Please remove the limiters from the carb adjustment screws. The main jet needs more fuel than the limiter allows. Do it soon or it will wear it out plus there's more power with it adjusted richer too.

In 1976 I had a 1970 Chevelle. Immediately I put a Craig am fm stereo with a built in 8 track in it......it had a power booster in it as they called it back then. Jenson triaxial speakers in the doors and  a pair of wedge mount speakers on the rear panel. I think they were Craig 9 inch ovals. It only put out about 30 or 40 total watts but without the power robbing base it was plenty loud. The Jensons were very efficient on power requirements.

Never heard about the dog house shape. I did consider closing the exhaust valve and blending the exhaust port from the outside..

Jeep....I still have my Pioneer SX950 (or something like that) Tuner. Back in the day I also had Cerwin Vega speakers. 15inch woofers and twin horn tweeters . 

My daughter and Son in law are getting interested in vinyl albums lately so I refurbished my old Toshiba direct drive turn table these last few days so I can give it to them for Christmas.. I have a new cartridge ordered......should be here shortly. How many of you had the 'High End" stereo equipment back in the seventies? This was my pride and joy when I was 18 (1977). It has the strobe light so you can set the rpm's perfectly, a counterweight to adjust the needle weight and the drag adjustment. I can't wait to clean some old albums and hear them again!!.....Oh by the way do any of you know how to clean these vinyl albums? Some have the paper sleeve stuck. Soaking in water may lift it off?

I don't post much about my own wheelers because I don't break them or modify them much but I am happy to say that I've had a blast modifying the used Honda CFR150F I bought my wife. It had the chinese carb on it so i cleaned the original given to me by the seller. I jetted it a few times to make it run the best. I also removed the intake snorkel and the triple layered back fire screen under the air filter. I also removed the header pipe and ground down the weld inside the pipe. Wow.....this thing perked up! It's been fun. I used to do this stuff years ago........kinda fun doing it again.

I'm concerned about your spark plug being black and sooty after a few hours of running. If it's wet then it's oil and ready for rings at a minimum. If it's dry then that's too much fuel. I'd check the air filter first. That's probably not the problem. I would clean and rebuild the carb replacing the jets. Please get a replacement needle too because they wear to a smaller diameter after many hours of use. People here say the aftermarket brand "Shindy" is the only good aftermarket brand to use. I would trust their opinion in the matter. If the needle isn't included then buy one from Honda........find out the correct clip position too. This will probably fix the soot problem, give you better economy and better power!!!! Cant lose.

I've always wanted to know the truth about the cheap Chinese carbs for wheelers and dirt bikes. I've heard many people....even here say it worked good for them. I always wondered if it worked good to someone who knows how to define "Good". I able to correctly define "good" because I've done over ten thousand carb jobs in my career. Case in point..........I bought my wife a Honda CRF150F two days ago. It was in excellent condition but the seller put a cheap carb on it for $20 because the last time the dealer charged over $200 to repair the carb. He said it worked good. I told him I would buy the bike if it came with the original carb......he still had it!!!!!!!. So I drive several hours to buy it . During the test drive the carb was rich at low speed and lean at high speed.......This was good by his definition. The next day I cleaned the original carb. and now it works as designed!!!!!"  "Good" LOL . While doing some online research for stock jet sizes and clips position I found out that they benefit greatly by removing the baffle and intake snorkel. They came jetted too lean from the factory...so "they say". I agree because the baffle was already removed and I could tell after my cleaning it needed a bigger main jet. Online gurus said increase the main from 98 to115! !!!! I drilled mine out and it works very good! Maybe another horsepower? So that's my experience with Chinese dirt bike carbs........they're good.......or are they? LOL

I own two with the 02 senser. These have an idle control valve. Check that first. I've heard that cleaning can help but if it's like my old Accord then just replace it

Those high revving small bore two strokes are maintenance heavy. They are easy to work on tho. My wife had a KX 125 and the top end needed refreshing often.

Thanks for the update. I'm installing a new carb for my YZ 250 tomorrow. JD Jetting supplied me with extra needles and jets. Guess I will be tuning tomorrow.

I would spend the extra money and get the cylinder plated again. They last much much much longer, run cooler and you will save money in the long run due to boring, pistons and even rings. These 80cc cr's eat rings. Probably about 3 hours at race pace per set. New piston after the 4th or fifth set of rings. With a cast iron cylinder the bore will be worn out of spec after the piston is worn out. 

14 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

 

I will never  do estimates , I will give a "pre-hands on" guess'timate , it comes with an advance notice of  don't hold me to that price , could be less if things go well ------  once I start working on it , the clock is running ,  much of what I do is troubleshooting , so to give someone an estimate to fix their machine ,  takes time and work to find the problem ----- and that ain't free ---- Caterpillar here for road service work on site is $190-$225 per hour depending how far you are from their shop , road time to the job and back to shop   

 

You can do the same exact job , on the exact same type of machine , 5 times  and there will be a problem here and there on this one and not that one , never fails  , so many times the job that you feel is going to be hard turns out to be  easy and it is the easy job that turns into a nightmare because of unforeseen events 

 

I understand why the dealerships don't want to work on machines 10 years or older , I am not that bad with 10 years  , but I turn away a lot work on the 1970-80s model equipment that you can see  are junk that was never taken care , that is a nightmare every time , turns into a restoration project cause everything you touch is  messed up 

 

Another thing is friends and relatives , it is best to not work for them , believe me , what I do is use the barter system with friends and it works out better that way -------   if I really don't want to do the job and a friend is persistant and says what you want , usually asking for his truck , boat or wife for the weekend ends the deal quick , LOL 

I agree with you Fish.......if it a job that is too complicated to estimate then I explain how it works. In my business the repairs are easily diagnosed and easily estimated.....with a range that is comfortable. I found that if the customer knows something about the price and how i came to that price then they understand and trust me. This process also helps me "Weed  out" the customers that dont have the money or are just looking for some kind of a deal.

I use Stabil 360 Marine formula in my shop and at home. It doesn't fix all ethanol related problems but I'm sticking with it. 

I don't do anything for free. A broken bolt is more work than estimated. On all jobs i give a price range not an actual price. If the range is big enough then no problem if everything else works out as planned.

Does anyone know what the solution was? I have two 420's and want to know.

I had two new trx 420's in my garage and one day neither of them would start. The same rat chewed almost the exact same wires on each. Fortunately the damage was away from the connectors. Just a few hours of my time, wire , solder and shrink wrap and both were like new again. Six years later the wiring is still perfect..........I do put out traps now at the first sign of rats tho! ha ha

Flip it upside down......does it say anything?

I have something like that on my 420. If i remember correctly it's in the area of the battery. Fuse box cover or solenoid cover?

Those prices seem very reasonable to me. I've had my shop for 37 years now and wouldn't work that for that. No disrespect intended........just saying your customer should be ashamed of himself!

Interesting......I've done the filing a few times but the hammering effect is so bad it wears much faster now. Filing the tabs is something I've never thought of. I would be careful because rounding the edge also narrows the footprint of the tab which increases the psi on the basket causing even more rapid wear..

Welcome DT! Lots of common interests here.

I'm very happy you got the kinks worked out! See if an aftermarket fuel screw is available. I know on high performance four stroke dirt bikes the after market came up with two different ones. One was just a very long screw that could be access by hand but still a little tight. Another was a screw that had a cable attached with a knob on the end. The knob was secured to one of the float bowl screws if i remember correctly. You could just turn the knob for fine tuning......it was easy.

I've seen this several times in my life. This is most definitely a heat issue! I would insulate/wrap my petcock with something that blocks heat, As discussed already the high altitude  significantly reduces the boiling point of fuel which is very low at sea level. Alcohol blends lower the BP even more. Heat is the only problem. The first two times I saw fuel boiling was back in the late seventies or early eighties when we had 100% gas. It was very hot in Texas and my fuel was boiling in my 1952 Ford 8n tractor. Several other times it happened to my Mc Collough chain saw. I had it adjusted a little lean for higher RPM's and was running it very hard........one long cut after another. Turned it off and a few minutes later it wouldn't start. Thinking it was boiling fuel I pulled the rope many many times on full choke to force liquid fuel into the carb  and it started relunctantly but it started. This happened a few other times as well. Then about 15 years ago I bought a new Stihl 290 and worked the crap out of it the first day. I cut down one tree after another with out stopping. Occasionally it would die for no reason. A few pulls with and without choke it would start and run again. The stihl dealer said to use stihl oil because it runs cooler........they were correct.! The problem went away.