sled_22

I've been looking for a rebuild bike to essentially flip or keep depending. How much would you be will to deal for this? I feel like with no compression, it should be cheaper, like $250 max?

That's cheap. For $200 you can have a nice set up. If i can find another rebuild sometime soon i might invest.

How much does a parts washer such as this run a feller? I'd be tickled to have one.

Anchor point is where hold your hand against your head to look down the sights of the bow. If you don't hold your hand in the exact same spot every time you shoot, your pin placement and arrow placement will be inconsistent. Many factors play a part, release strap, clothing, glasses/contacts, etc. An example of the difference it can make, hold a finger out in front of you and point at something, then close one eye. Now open the other eye and close the first. (hopefully you have both eyes). your finger will be pointing else where because your line of sight moved. Same principle with a bow. You have to keep your line of sight down the arrow consistent. Lots of practice is usually required or adding tools to your bow to help correct tendencies. Sled

I ran a Pro-X & wiseco piston in a blaster i had as a kid too... Put 4 top ends in it. Kept burning a hole in the top of the piston. And after the first rebuild i deleted the oil injection and mixed everything from there out. This blaster was a little too decked out too, piped, jetted reeds, port, clutch etc. It had balls for a 200 but so many it would choke on them and be swallowed through the top of the piston. Sometimes it's more circumstantial than quality parts. I should have just bought a bigger machine if i wanted more power (but i was young and couldn't afford a $5000 machine).

I’ve been shooting bow for 20 years. Best word of advice, compound or crossbow; anchor point and level shooting is everything. I bought a $300 iq pro hunter a couple years ago and I couldn’t believe how much little things Effected my anchor. Wrist torque and release strap twist. All sorts of crap to throw you off. Figure out the best way to shoot level and anchor consistently. That’s my $0.02

Yeah I grew up with a 90 and 110 ATC. both chain drive and both had the gear reduction. I remember riding it so young that i couldn't pull start it myself. I either had to have my dad do it or get lucky and pop start it down the hill... and then pushing it back up the hill and trying again. If i only knew back then what I know now... We'd always have problems with chain, breaking masters and binding up in the case. That poor case of mine had been jb welded 3-4 times from the ! chain. But that's how i learned to take engines apart and put them back together... Back on topic, do they make these torq lockers for the 500 and new machines? I haven't had my front apart yet to know if it'd be a good (eventual) upgrade.

I grew up on a mid 80s 90cc ATC... As a kid i never knew it had a high range, just three gears. The day i figured out about the high gear reduction, may have been the day rolled the thing on multiple times... dad says "found the high range huh?" after seeing bent handle bars and a cracked fender.

You're guaranteed to shoot the biggest buck of your life which will die in the gnarliest briar infested hole known to man so long as you have the wheeler ripped apart on your work bench. just sayin'

Side note. I do think the axle needs to be replaced but for a few weeks I don’t think I’m going to worry about it. It just needs to get me through hunting season. Which means for a couple weeks using it to check cameras and then if I were to shoot something, haul it out of the woods. This quad has seen its days of abuse and will now be babied from here out. I just need some new tires at some point.

All bearings inspected. Checked gear lash. Repacked with grease. Oiled bearings in the case and and for the hubs. Greases swingarm bearings as those looked good and threw it all back together. Took it for a spin around the yard and all seemed well. I’ll take my boys for a ride tomorrow in the woods to check trail cams and make sure all is else is well but I suspect it’ll be fine. lesson learned here: if something feels wrong, there probably is. Because I felt those two Or three clunks, I probably saved myself hundreds in potential damage By tearing it apart. if one of those bearing guides jammed funny I could have broke a case or shaft or anything really. plus now I know the rear end is good. So the carb, engine and rear end have been gone through. Next will be the front end, I’m sure there’s ball joints that could be changed but I’d like to wait for a winter project with that. sled.

Just found this too. Definitely a cap for a ujoint. Gotta be left over debris

So. The swing arm is out. I have inspected the ujoint and it looks pretty good. Output shaft is fine on the motor and I don’t see anything with the drive shaft. It looks new. There was a bunch of metal debris in the boot from engine to swing arm. This is a new to me machine which had first gear out. Everything came apart pretty easily and looked like new grease in the entire thing along with new rear end oil. Did I just buy a machine that had an drive shaft failure and they didn’t clean all the crap out of it and I was chewing up old debris? Here’s some pictures. I need to look at the parts fiche and see if there’s anything missing. There’s a chip out of the collar on where the drive shaft enters the rear end.

I have to go a big city tomorrow for a wedding and I’ll drive right past a harbor freight. Otherwise it’s a 60 mile drive. Thanks for the information guys. i went to orielys and Carquest neither had one nor the hardware store. All only stocked up to 10mm. forgot that I also went to a sears hometown store.

Ring gear splines actually look good. just checked 3 stores in town. No 17mm wrenches. I bought a 26mm socket to grind down. I assume if I can get the lock nut off I can get the bolt out? Is that correct?

So here’s what I found. Ring gear and pinnion gear look good. But the axle shaft looks a little wore out. also. The drive shaft that comes from the unjoint has debris in the grease. Looks like needle bearings and some other chunk of metal. I suspect the ujoint is toast. Next step is dropping the rear swing arm to get in there. But I need the lock nut wrench.

I wanted to get the nut and hub off on the right side but it's seized up pretty good and was hoping to put it in the vice and soak some heat to it on a much easier playing field. I can put the cover back on the transfer case pretty easily just to remove it.i took it off hoping i could get the ring gear to slide out so i could simply inspect without removing everything else but it wasn't easily sliding down the axle shaft. With a little bit of encouragement, that ring gear should slide down the axle right?

Does the right side axle nut need to be removed to pull the axle out? I took the left wheel and hub off last night. The left axle hub nut was fairly loose and had some wobble in the wheel. I took the axle tube off and the rear case left hand cover off. left bearing was in good shape, nothing crazy in the oil and no shrapnel in the bottom of the case. I want to pull the rest apart for inspection later today after work.

Does anyone have any experience with the newer browning BARs. Looking in 30-06 or .270 caliber for deer hunting in ranges consisting of less than 250 yards. Using for only whitetail deer. Heard a few reports they aren't as accurate as a bolt action but I do not like the x-bolt. Too clunky of an action. Would also be interested in hearing reports on a Winchester model 70 bolt and tikka bolt action. The thing i don't care about the tikka is I want a wood finish. I have plenty of synthetic stock guns. Sled.

I think that is actually the fourwheeler chariot races that either Nitro Circus or Jackass did about 10 years ago. I remember back then it being pretty funny but now I believe I'd be disgusted in the abuse the wheelers took.

Pip, I must say, it looks like you've done a great job thus far. It read the entire thread start to finish the other day and half way though i'm saying to myself, just split the cases, you won't regret it when you see whats in there. And now I bet you're glad you did. Great job cleaning up without a parts washer as well. I did the same thing a few weeks ago without a parts washer. I used starter fluid and actual aerosol parts washer. Both worked fine imo. Since you're on the home stretch, a little advice: Take your time, be patient with the rings and make sure you have the timing set correctly. Good luck can't wait to see the first start up video. -Sled.

Yeah I understand. A lot of times, with different mechanical things, I like to questions said job before "taking the cover off". Sometimes there specific niche things that can be resolved very easily if known to look for them. Kind of like knowing to point the long end of the "T" at the "N" for the gear position indicator. Was hoping for something like that, or for example: hey don't pull that cover off unless you have a pan underneath because you'll loose all the needle bearings when the "x" shaft falls off. You guys have been there and done that on all these quads so it's a wealth of knowledge i want in on 🙂 Thanks. Sled

06 foreman footshift - trx500fm. I was out driving this weekend and when going down the road from one parcel to the next i noticed my rear end clunked about 3 different times. each time separate. I was in higher gears, faster speeds, and lighter loads. Basically a constant throttle maintaining 15-25 mph cruising. One quick clunk, just enough to feel it, almost like a loss of power but definitely came from the rear end. When i was tooling around in the woods with and w/o 4wd i could never get it to replicate. It's almost like it needed a higher speed and light load to "clunk". I'm wondering if i don't have the start of a wear issue. After talking to a few on a different thread, I'm going to take the differential apart and diagnose the problem. Will report back findings in a few days. Thanks, Sled.

My apologies, I thought the OP had found the problem and in order to prevent a clutter of common posts about the same potential issue i replied here.

Yeah i know that. Rarely use 4wd unless needed up steep inclines right now. The tire heights are almost identical now being worn so much but that is the major reason to getting new tires on order.