Jump to content
Jemmons467

2000 Foreman 450 es no shift

Recommended Posts

So I posted earlier about my Foreman not shifting and thought I narrowed it down to the oil seal behind the gear shift spindle for the angle sensor. So I put the new seal in put a new control motor on started it up let it run. Reversed out of my garage drove gently down the road into 5th then back down to 1st, N the reverse. Went to shift out of reverse and nothing. So I had to use the emergency shift to get back, which it will shift all the way to 5th using that. So I am at a loss right now. I might put the old angle sensor back in to see if that might be it but I check the continuity of the new one and its fine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

When you say " control motor " , you mean the " shift motor "  is brand new ?  ---- Is it flashing a code ? ----- I think opening all the electrical connectors , check for corrosion , clean and apply die-electric grease to the plugs would be my next guess 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I am referring to the shift motor and it is brand new. As far as I know the 2000 Foreman does not flash or store codes. I applied dielectric to the 16 pin and I've gone through the connectors and haven't noticed any corrosion. Last time this happened I was in my garage and shifted N, 1st, 2nd, 1st, N. When I shifted in reverse out of my garage it wouldn't shift up again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Amazon, I only replaced that because I broke one of the brush leads and then got infuriated and threw it against my garage wall. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Would guess if it was from Amazon , then it didn't say Honda genuine Part on the bag ,  I think a OEM Honda shift motor should be purchased and installed  , electrical parts from China are known to fail or not even work at all , might not be the problem , but ..... 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

How about the angle sensor, was that OEM or aftermarket? If it is aftermarket switch back to the old OEM and see what it does. The aftermarket angle sensors are junk.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 

Hi: There maybe a problem with the relay contacts -- try jumping the relay contacts.

Relay test.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

More than likely it's the non OEM parts you have installed but will ask before your put the shift motor in did you throw any grease in the gears and bushings?  Synthetic grease is recommended and should be liberally spread in there.

 

Also a weak battery is a killer for making the ES models work properly.  Sounds like your bike has been sitting for a little with the work you have done, make sure it's in good shape...

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
49 minutes ago, Melatv said:

Hi: There maybe a problem with the relay contacts -- try jumping the relay contacts.

Relay test.jpg

I will also check to see if the relay is working.

1 minute ago, bcsman said:

More than likely it's the non OEM parts you have installed but will ask before your put the shift motor in did you throw any grease in the gears and bushings?  Synthetic grease is recommended and should be liberally spread in there.

I did, I made sure to push grease into every bushing and extra before I put it together.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Dear atvhonda diary,

After a long talk with my Foreman last night I left it in the garage to rethink its life and the direction it was heading. 

 

No but I started it up this morning and still nothing, I rocked it back and forth a little bit while reving and hitting the shift buttons and a slight clunk and it went into gear. I drove it around for 20-30 minutes going through all the gears and its working. So not real sure what the issue is, it could have been the battery but I did have it inside my house the whole time I was working on it and it had 12.46 volts and 14.5 with the wheeler on yesterday so who knows. This is definitely a love hate relationship but will keep everyone posted. Thank you everyone again for the help.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Sounds like good news for now, but if problems rise in the future I would suspect the cheaper parts you installed would be the first place to check.  And yes when in doubt with a shift problem not working it's a good idea to rock it back and forth a little, sometimes all it takes.  I have heard especially true when trying to shift while it is not moving, so keep that in mind also.  Keep us up on how things are going @Jemmons467.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
19 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

image.png

So I have come across this thing before and thought about posting it here to see what everyone though and if anyone has used it woth any success 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

 I have seen that, and prior to meeting retro here on the board I would have suggested that, but that is a blacksmiths way of fixing a problem.

 

He built me a voltage regulator for my selectable front diff I installed in my 350 rancher.  It would have worked fine with 12 V, but would have prematurely worn the components.

 

 That ES conversion will likely work, but will likely shorten component life  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, Jemmons467 said:

So I have come across this thing before and thought about posting it here to see what everyone though and if anyone has used it woth any success 

Here is the link to the by-pass kit , it eliminates everything except the shift motor 

https://hondaesshiftkit.com/

 

Another option is a foot shifter that mounts to the emergency shifter shaft , there is a guy in Louisiana makes and sells them , I could dig up his info , a lot of people say the ES innards are not  heavy duty as a foot shifter's innards ,  so the foot shift wears it out quick , but I know two people who are running the foot shifters on their ES models for a long time now and never had any problems

 

And then there is yet another way to solve all them ES shift problems permanently and  cheap :

 

image.png

  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

 Most people I have run across that have put a foot shifter on their ES have not pulled the reduction gears out and were fighting the reduction gears and motor with every foot shift

Once you pull those gears out, it seems to shift pretty close to a normal foot shift as far as I can tell.

All the ones I that am aware of are still working just fine, and its been many years.

The internal parts for the most part seem to be of same build quality, although not quite sure on the shift plate have figured why some crack and some dont.....

 

I have had many, many older ES models pass thru me over the years and have never had or found an issue that could not be resolved properly as per the manual

Is there a particular fault that is more cost effective to use this harness for than oem parts? The only issue I could think of might be to overide a bad shift ECU?

 

I am not a big fan of modifying OEM and try to keep things as they were designed -are there any cons to this harness?

it seems handy to have in tool box, but I just keep a mini vise grip with a shift nub welded on them for the shift shaft, the oem tool is ok but a bit of pain (use a small o ring to keep it on)

Seems like lot a work on the trail to hook that harness up for emergency use when you could just shift with the shaft itself to get home

 

 

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Quick update, I drove close to 10 miles today, just putting around with my son in the fields around my house, went through the gears and shifting fine.

Heading home I was in 3rd gear and went to down shift but hesitated on the button then hit it and the indicator went blank and would not shift. I put the oe angle sensor on before dinner and still wouldn't shift.

In the morning I'm going to pull the plastics off and start troubleshooting it and check the things everyone has recommended. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

3rd and reverse is what  I hear are the gears it gets stuck in >>>  I know I have pulled a lot of ES  home , some stuck in gear  and drug them ----  you need rock it  sometimes 

 

You know what I heard from ES guys that I have ridden with , is you have to learn to down shift before you stop moving and don't kill it in gear 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
31 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

3rd and reverse is what  I hear are the gears it gets stuck in >>>  I know I have pulled a lot of ES  home , some stuck in gear  and drug them ----  you need rock it  sometimes 

 

You know what I heard from ES guys that I have ridden with , is you have to learn to down shift before you stop moving and don't kill it in gear 

I was still moving when I went to down shift. After I got home I rocked it back and forth nothing, used the emergency shifter to put it in neutral and tried from there as well. When the machine shifts it runs great which make this all the more agitating. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

China knockoffs do not work on a Honda. Fix those mistakes first, then follow this guide to fix the factory mistakes.

 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
2 hours ago, retro said:

China knockoffs do not work on a Honda. Fix those mistakes first, then follow this guide to fix the factory mistakes.

 

 

I read through that last week and did it to the new parts. It is hard to buy OE when the dealer wants $96 for an angle sensor but I do guess you get what you pay for. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

While you are waiting on those two OEM parts, take the fenders off and clean & dielectric grease every electrical connector pair on the bike. Be careful with the large grey ECM connector, it has many small pins that can get bent so it most be separated by pulling straight up on the connector. When plugging the ECM back in make sure that the connector is pushed on straight and that it seats all the way into the ECM.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
3 hours ago, retro said:

While you are waiting on those two OEM parts, take the fenders off and clean & dielectric grease every electrical connector pair on the bike. Be careful with the large grey ECM connector, it has many small pins that can get bent so it most be separated by pulling straight up on the connector. When plugging the ECM back in make sure that the connector is pushed on straight and that it seats all the way into the ECM.

I'm sure it's probably obvious but a good idea to disconnect the battery before taking all these connectors apart....at least with me sometimes I delve into a project and forget to do the simple stuff first...

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...