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TnHONDA

Hello from Tennessee!

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Hello I'm a New member from Tennessee! I have had hondas since I was a kid and they have always been bullet proof! I have a 2006 Honda Rubicon 500 on 27s,1998 foreman 400 on 27s and a 2018 honda pioneer 1000 on 32s!  I just changed the oil and diff fluid in the 400 and put new axles in it!   But when I did the oil I noticed metal shavings in the oil! Does anyone know what the problem could be? Or should I keep riding it and run it till something breaks?

 

Thanks 

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Hi TnHonda, welcome to ATVHonda!

 

Were those metal bits aluminum or steel? Can you describe what you saw?

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Hi: Big Welcome Here

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6 hours ago, retro said:

Hi TnHonda, welcome to ATVHonda!

 

Were those metal bits aluminum or steel? Can you describe what you saw?

Thanks! I guess aluminum? I'm not sure? The oil was silver looking  and I pulled the filter apart and there was fine shavings in it? 

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Welcome aboard!  Need more info on the pioneer and what all you've done to it!

 

Any smoking, noises, or other iffy stuff with the 400 engine?  Happen to get any pics of what came out?

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4 hours ago, TnHONDA said:

The oil was silver looking  and I pulled the filter apart and there was fine shavings in it? 

 

Was the oil pretty black looking? Saturated with carbon particles?

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Posted (edited)
3 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

Welcome aboard!  Need more info on the pioneer and what all you've done to it!

 

Any smoking, noises, or other iffy stuff with the 400 engine?  Happen to get any pics of what came out?

It has a ticking noise like the valve need adjustment but other than that it runs good? And I didn't get any pics of the oil. With the pioneer I have done forward A arms, 2.5in lift, Rhino axles, wheel spacers, rock lights, light bars, interior lights, MSA m30 rims and 32in pro armor xg tires.

Edited by TnHONDA

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2 minutes ago, retro said:

 

Was the oil pretty black looking? Saturated with carbon particles?

Yes it was.

 

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Well, if the oil and filter have been changed at proper intervals (long periods, high hours/miles between oil changes result in carbon particles excessively saturating the oil - particle suspension capacity of the oil is exceeded which results in very high wear rates and ruins motors) and if the motor oil was rated for wet clutches (MA/MA2 spec'd), then I would suspect the piston & cylinder to be worn out. You can perform a compression check to determine whether the top end is ready for a rebuild.

 

EDIT: If the motor have ever been sunk high wear rates will occur too. Advise you check the compression.

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I will take a wild guess on the shavings and the ticking sounds Pieces of piston skirt chipped away from the piston , from the piston wearing egg shaped in the bore cause the crankshaft needs to be replaced because the wrist pin bore of the connecting rod is wallowed out 

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26 minutes ago, retro said:

Well, if the oil and filter have been changed at proper intervals (long periods, high hours/miles between oil changes result in carbon particles excessively saturating the oil - particle suspension capacity of the oil is exceeded which results in very high wear rates and ruins motors) and if the motor oil was rated for wet clutches (MA/MA2 spec'd), then I would suspect the piston & cylinder to be worn out. You can perform a compression check to determine whether the top end is ready for a rebuild.

 

EDIT: If the motor have ever been sunk high wear rates will occur too. Advise you check the compression.

Ok thanks. I don't think It has ever been sunk? My dad had it for years before I got it a while back.he never said anything about it getting sunk But he doesn't take good care of his stuff so I bet it's been A LONG TIME since he has changed the oil! 

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More than likely what Fish said. 

 

If your rod is good, top end is easy and not very expensive.  You can swap a 450 Foreman cylinder on to get a few more CC's, or just have your existing cylinder bored oversized to a new oversized piston.

 

There's a place called G&H discount ATV in Somerville TN that does great work.

 

If you have any slack in the connecting rod, you'll need to have your crank rebuilt.  Vince at Mr Crankshaft in KY does great work and is much cheaper than buying a new crank.

 

If you're handy you can fix it.

 

For now, you can change the oil and run it and see what happens, or you can pull the top end and see what you find.

 

At least you have other rigs to use if you have one go down.

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Hi Tn, welcome to our forum.  We have a few from your state here, if you check the members map you can see.  Also maybe put yourself on the map too.  I see you are getting some advice already, they know what they are talking about.  We also have a chat you can join in, we are usually around in the evening.  On the upper menu there is a Chat title, just click and join in, we talk about many different topics, depends on what gets mentioned....

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6 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

More than likely what Fish said. 

 

If your rod is good, top end is easy and not very expensive.  You can swap a 450 Foreman cylinder on to get a few more CC's, or just have your existing cylinder bored oversized to a new oversized piston.

 

There's a place called G&H discount ATV in Somerville TN that does great work.

 

If you have any slack in the connecting rod, you'll need to have your crank rebuilt.  Vince at Mr Crankshaft in KY does great work and is much cheaper than buying a new crank.

 

If you're handy you can fix it.

 

For now, you can change the oil and run it and see what happens, or you can pull the top end and see what you find.

 

At least you have other rigs to use if you have one go down.

Ok thanks!  I have been using the 400 more here lately because I need to order some front end parts for my 500 but once I fix it again the 400 won't be used much.

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5 hours ago, bcsman said:

Hi Tn, welcome to our forum.  We have a few from your state here, if you check the members map you can see.  Also maybe put yourself on the map too.  I see you are getting some advice already, they know what they are talking about.  We also have a chat you can join in, we are usually around in the evening.  On the upper menu there is a Chat title, just click and join in, we talk about many different topics, depends on what gets mentioned....

Thanks. I will definitely join and put myself on the map.

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I said the piston skirt cause I seen that one before with my 2002 450 , same animal as the 400 , the crank let the piston wobble , the piston skirt destructed and aluminum slivers showed up in the filter  , then it eventually went to smoking  --- but it could really be a few things 

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Love them rims on that 400 !!! 

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2 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

Love them rims on that 400 !!! 

Thanks

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9 hours ago, LedFTed said:

welcome

Thanks. What kind of horse is that?

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14 hours ago, TnHONDA said:

Ok thanks!  I have been using the 400 more here lately because I need to order some front end parts for my 500 but once I fix it again the 400 won't be used much.

 

The knuckles and brakes for that 500 will bolt onto a 450 at the ball joints, giving you disc brakes on it.

 

Not sure if 400 and 450 knuckles are the same though.  Maybe one of the other guys here would know that. 

 

I know the 400's and 450's share most parts.  Might be worth looking into when you need front end work on the 400.  The MAW (might as well) always tells you to upgrade parts when replacing them.

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3 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

The knuckles and brakes for that 500 will bolt onto a 450 at the ball joints, giving you disc brakes on it.

 

Not sure if 400 and 450 knuckles are the same though.  Maybe one of the other guys here would know that. 

 

I know the 400's and 450's share most parts.  Might be worth looking into when you need front end work on the 400.  The MAW (might as well) always tells you to upgrade parts when replacing them.

I love the disc brakes on the 500 I have thought about doing a disc brakes conversion on the 400. My dad had the 400 before me and put 450 knuckle on the left side of the 400 but it took a little rigging up for it to work. 

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20 minutes ago, TnHONDA said:

I love the disc brakes on the 500 I have thought about doing a disc brakes conversion on the 400. My dad had the 400 before me and put 450 knuckle on the left side of the 400 but it took a little rigging up for it to work. 

If any member of this site wants anything from SuperATV , they will give you a 10% discount for being a member , just tell them when you place your order , they have the disc conversion kit for the 400/450 they use to cost right around $200 

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SuperATV front or rear disc kit , I converted the rear to hydraulics ,  it does work better than the cable 

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27 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

If any member of this site wants anything from SuperATV , they will give you a 10% discount for being a member , just tell them when you place your order , they have the disc conversion kit for the 400/450 they use to cost right around $200 

I looked online and it said $235 or something like that. Once I get the Rubicon where it want fall apart I'm going to get the conversion kit

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