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freebo86

Should there be oil in here?

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Posted (edited)

My curiosity got the best of me, I loosened the clamp on the accordion style rubber boot that’s towards the rear near the oil dip stick, and that runs back to the axle. 
 

Should there be oil in this accordion? And what actually is in there? I loosened the clamp and oil just oozed out.. 

 

 

 

 

Edited by freebo86

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Nevermind, got my answer. Guess not. Apparently the rear output shaft is the culprit. 
 

so what special tools are needed to pull that swing arm off? And what is the quickest and easiest way to pull it? Remove the wheels, remove rear brake cables, lower shock bolts then undo the swing arm and pull it back?

 

I tried looking on partzilla but can’t figure out what the seal actually is. Is it #6 under Final Gear Drive?

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7 OIL SEAL (25X61X8.5) (KOYO)
91205-HM7-003 
$14.41
$14.07

 

I'd leave the swing arm attached to the rear end , support it  with a jack , wouldn't order any parts till it was taken apart ---as far as tools go , 17 mm allen socket wrench , lock ring socket , inch pound torque wrench and a foot pound torque wrench 

IMG_8319.JPG

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Why you saying don’t order anything till it’s apart? What else is there to replace that may be required? 

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1 minute ago, freebo86 said:

Why you saying don’t order anything till it’s apart? What else is there to replace that may be required? 

I don't know , worst case senerio , Swing arm bearings , seals and dust plates ,  maybe the u-jolt could be bad either from the splines worn out or u-joint wobbling or there is  a seal  groove cut  cut in the shaft  ----

 

now that I think  about it , that swing arm is likely full of oil , so maybe it would be best to take the rear end off the swing arm and clean it out and maybe check out and change the pinion seal if the tube was full of oil ---

 

you don't really need the foot pound torque wrench , cause you only have to lock the jam nut down , but I do think the inch pound wrench is important to not over tighten the swing arm bearing adjustment , it is only like 48 inch pounds of torque ( 4 ft pound ) 

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5 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I don't know , worst case senerio , Swing arm bearings , seals and dust plates ,  maybe the u-jolt could be bad either from the splines worn out or u-joint wobbling or there is  a seal  groove cut  cut in the shaft  ----

 

now that I think  about it , that swing arm is likely full of oil , so maybe it would be best to take the rear end off the swing arm and clean it out and maybe check out and change the pinion seal if the tube was full of oil ---

 

you don't really need the foot pound torque wrench , cause you only have to lock the jam nut down , but I do think the inch pound wrench is important to not over tighten the swing arm bearing adjustment , it is only like 48 inch pounds of torque ( 4 ft pound ) 

 

 

Oyyy Oyyyy potentially more parts to replace..

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8 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

 

 

Oyyy Oyyyy potentially more parts to replace..

You never know how you look till you had your picture took ------  and many  part places give free shipping once you hit that certain purchase amount , I know how you are , you order parts quick 

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21 minutes ago, freebo86 said:

 

 

Oyyy Oyyyy potentially more parts to replace..

 

Well the good news is, with all of that apart you know the stuff is good, whether it was good before, or needs to be replaced.

 

If your swingarm bearings are ok, grease them while you have it apart. 

 

I wouldn't worry too much about getting everything in the rear end completely spotless.  Part of me thinks having a swingarm full of oil could be a good thing LOL.

 

Unbolt rear shocks from the rear axle, pull vent lines and rear brake cables, take accordion boot off, and undo those two 17MM hex bolts holding the swingarm in, and the whole thing should slide out. 

 

Then take that little circlip out holding the rear output seal in place, and get the old seal out (I usually thread a drywall screw into the seal, and then pull on the drywall screw), tap new seal in, reassemble in reverse order.

 

 

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46 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

Part of me thinks having a swingarm full of oil could be a good thing LOL.

 

i kind of agree ^^^^ 

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Posted (edited)
8 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

Well the good news is, with all of that apart you know the stuff is good, whether it was good before, or needs to be replaced.

 

If your swingarm bearings are ok, grease them while you have it apart. 

 

I wouldn't worry too much about getting everything in the rear end completely spotless.  Part of me thinks having a swingarm full of oil could be a good thing LOL.

 

Unbolt rear shocks from the rear axle, pull vent lines and rear brake cables, take accordion boot off, and undo those two 17MM hex bolts holding the swingarm in, and the whole thing should slide out. 

 

Then take that little circlip out holding the rear output seal in place, and get the old seal out (I usually thread a drywall screw into the seal, and then pull on the drywall screw), tap new seal in, reassemble in reverse order.

 

 


so does the lock nut have to come off? I keep reading people just undoing the 17mm hex and that’s it?

 

Because I got most of it off but I’m at the lock but now. Left side is just the 17mm hex.. havent tried pulling that off. 
 

But that lock but is not coming off with just hitting it with a hammer and chisel.. I’m worried going further if actually ruining the lock but and then being SOL. 


 

9 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

You never know how you look till you had your picture took ------  and many  part places give free shipping once you hit that certain purchase amount , I know how you are , you order parts quick 


I actually hate to spend money! 

 

Edited by freebo86

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just unscrew the 17mm allen bolts, don't worry about the lock nuts right now !.

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Just now, shadetree said:

just unscrew the 17mm allen bolts, don't worry about the lock nuts right now !.


Go on? Serious?

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10 minutes ago, freebo86 said:


Go on? Serious?

yes..i am serious, just unscrew the center 17mm bolts, don't worry about the lock nuts right now.

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17mm allen wrench, maybe a hammer or cheater pipe works very well slid onto the allen wrench, just unscrew the bolts, i do it this way all the time.

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What shade said. Just unscrew the allen bolt. The lock nut will come off with it. 

 

 

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Posted (edited)

Got it loose. Pulled.

cleaned threads, checked bearings they were smooth once I cleaned them off. Applied marine grease to them and cleaned the swing arm cavity they sit in and pushed them back in.

 

replaced the output shaft seal - easy. The issue I ran into is the rear shaft that is inside the swing arm pulled itself out of the diff and is inside the swing arm tube now.. is this normal? 

 

Do I now need to separate the swing arm from the rear diff to get the rear shaft back seated?

 

The instructions don’t into great detail on getting the back driveshaft in do I just push it until it snaps into something or what?

 

201143B5-AE7C-45E6-9B6D-CFF9D1A62C0F.png

Edited by freebo86

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 It should have a spring on it where it goes down onto the diff. Just push it in there. It will go

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1 minute ago, jeepwm69 said:

 It should have a spring on it where it goes down onto the diff. Just push it in there. It will go


Yes there is a spring back there I see it in the tube. Is it supposed to click into place or what?

 

 

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You might have to rotate the rear end vertical to line up the splines but once the prop shaft is in place you will know it when trying to turn it. It will stay in place enough once it's there to put it back in place.

 

I didn't read every reply so if it hasn't been mentioned make sure to torque the pivot bolts correctly or next month you'll be replacing the bearings in the swingarm or worse, the frame in a few months.

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17 hours ago, freebo86 said:

Got it loose. Pulled.

cleaned threads, checked bearings they were smooth once I cleaned them off. Applied marine grease to them and cleaned the swing arm cavity they sit in and pushed them back in.

 

replaced the output shaft seal - easy. The issue I ran into is the rear shaft that is inside the swing arm pulled itself out of the diff and is inside the swing arm tube now.. is this normal? 

 

Do I now need to separate the swing arm from the rear diff to get the rear shaft back seated?

 

The instructions don’t into great detail on getting the back driveshaft in do I just push it until it snaps into something or what?

 

201143B5-AE7C-45E6-9B6D-CFF9D1A62C0F.png

yeah, the u-joint under the boot, splines onto the output shaft, its a tad tricky sticking the drive shaft in the rear of swing arm, all the way to the output shaft and getting the u-joint to slide onto the output shaft while trying to keep the u-joint from flopping around , but it can be done easy.

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So basically just push the driveshaft into the swing arm tube and I should get it to seat down into the rear diff? 

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1 hour ago, freebo86 said:

So basically just push the driveshaft into the swing arm tube and I should get it to seat down into the rear diff? 

yep, push it up into the swing arm, u-joint first, will take some twisting to get the u-joint to go back onto the output shaft, once that is done, make sure the tension spring is in the back end of the drive shaft ?, large o-ring in the diff grove where it bolts up, press the diff onto the drive shaft as far as you can, quickly put a nut on the studs to hold it, make sure the large o-ring does not fall out of the groove ?, then do all 4 nuts on the studs, thats all there is too it.

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On 7/14/2021 at 2:55 PM, shadetree said:

yep, push it up into the swing arm, u-joint first, will take some twisting to get the u-joint to go back onto the output shaft, once that is done, make sure the tension spring is in the back end of the drive shaft ?, large o-ring in the diff grove where it bolts up, press the diff onto the drive shaft as far as you can, quickly put a nut on the studs to hold it, make sure the large o-ring does not fall out of the groove ?, then do all 4 nuts on the studs, thats all there is too it.


well to do this I’d have to separate the diff off the swing arm.. no way to do this with it all still as one assembly.

 

 

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You can do it , if it was easy then everyone would be an atv mechanic --- set it on a bigger piece of wood then that 2x6 that you got on top that jack  so it is more stable and use some blocks to get the angle right , then a ratchet strap to hold it all steady -------   see how big the plywood is on top the jack , the blocks and the ratchet strap holding it steady , turn the hub to make the u-joint line up 

 

 

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