Jump to content
David13

Warn Winch Wires

Recommended Posts

I'm mounting my Warn winch on the 2019 Honda Rancher.  I want to put the controller in the trunk or back tool area.  The wires from Warn are not long enough to reach back there.

 

I tried Home Depot and Napa auto.  Home Depot has 8 gauge but it's very stiff wire.  The wires that came with the winch are quite flexible.  Soft, really, but stranded copper.

 

Napa has somewhat softer but still stiff enough.  

 

And ideas where I can get the same wire Warn supplies with the winch?

 

Thanks

dc

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Do you have any automotive sound system places close? They probably have some of the fine strand wire for use on amps. I've used cheap jumper cables before just because I have zero options here and needed something the same day. Reading in the past going to the 6 awg will boost the 2500# winch to the 3500#. The larger size would work better in a longer run also.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

how is it even posb that warn's oem cables wont reach to the back ?. i've installed many warn winches in my time, and never..not once...have I ever had the cables not long enough to reach the back end !!!. where are you mounting the winch ?, are you zig zagging the cables all over the place ?. its a straight forward install, hook to winch ( assuming you have it in the correct spot ? ), run the cables in a straight pattern right to the back. you can't have them go up, around, down, and all that. even better if you have a tube frame ?, run the cables through the tube frame, done many this way, no need for cable ties, out of harms way of heat.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
6 hours ago, toodeep said:

Do you have any automotive sound system places close? They probably have some of the fine strand wire for use on amps. I've used cheap jumper cables before just because I have zero options here and needed something the same day. Reading in the past going to the 6 awg will boost the 2500# winch to the 3500#. The larger size would work better in a longer run also.

Hi: Using # 6 cable will not boost a 2500 LB to a 3500 Lb winch -- # 6 cable with 12 volts applied to it will carry 200 amps up to a 10 ft length of cable.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
 
1 hour ago, Melatv said:

Hi: Using # 6 cable will not boost a 2500 LB to a 3500 Lb winch -- # 6 cable with 12 volts applied to it will carry 200 amps up to a 10 ft length of cable.

Just something I read in the past. I never looked into it.  The claim was they was the exact same winches besides wire size. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
1 hour ago, toodeep said:

Just something I read in the past. I never looked into it.  The claim was they was the exact same winches besides wire size. 

That was the Warn A2000. They sold the same winch with heavier cables as a 2500lb

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
20 hours ago, shadetree said:

how is it even posb that warn's oem cables wont reach to the back ?. i've installed many warn winches in my time, and never..not once...have I ever had the cables not long enough to reach the back end !!!. where are you mounting the winch ?, are you zig zagging the cables all over the place ?. its a straight forward install, hook to winch ( assuming you have it in the correct spot ? ), run the cables in a straight pattern right to the back. you can't have them go up, around, down, and all that. even better if you have a tube frame ?, run the cables through the tube frame, done many this way, no need for cable ties, out of harms way of heat.

 

Well, Shadetree, I have no real idea as to how it is possible that the Warn wires won't reach.  All I can tell you is ... they don't. 

 

I can get out there with the camera and take some photos that might explain it.

 

But I can give a narrative here.

 

First, I mounted the winch in the front, on the KFI bracket, at the front and center, behind the bumper with the bracket onto the end of a center portion of the frame.  There is tubular frame on both sides leading to the rear, this again the 2019 Honda Rancher 420 (I think). 

 

Running the wires from the winch, down the side of the tubular frame, either outside or inside the tubular frame, the wires reach to just about the seat area, almost to the edge of the battery.  Thus, to go to the trunk or tool box further back they are somewhat less than a foot or two short.  Thus I'm looking for the same wire to cut to exact length.

 

As to the explanation, I don't know.  They say that things are bigger in Texas, and maybe then, they are smaller down there in Arkansas.  Maybe that is the explanation, that you have installed on smaller ATVs, and/or maybe I got a Texas ATV over here in Utah.  And that explains it. 

 

I  do know that I have been informed that the  Rancher 420 got bigger in 2014/2015.  They went to the same frame or chassis as the Foreman, or something like that.

 

Anyway, I'll try to get some photos to show it, which may explain it.

 

Thanks for your comments.

dc

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 
Posted (edited)

They probably made shorter cables to save money on the newer winches.  That was the one thing I didn't like about the Superwinch LT3000's I was buying a couple of years ago when they were $120 or so shipped on Amazon; dang cables were short and had to be replaced, or the contactor mounted further up on the wheeler.

 

If you think about it, cutting a couple of feet of copper wire out of 10,000 winches would add up. 

 

 

Edited by jeepwm69
  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I don't like to drill holes in the trunk on any ATV, so on my 2000 Rancher I moved the contactor up inside the steering head frame gusset (which is the highest point on the frame) just forward of the fuel tank after drilling two mounting holes in that gusset. I made a short set of cables routing to the Warn #2500 winch and a longer set of cables routing to the battery using 6 AWG welding cable. The handlebar rocker switch harness was snipped off shorter and terminals soldered on to connect to the contactor to provide a custom fit as well. Once all of the plastics were put back on the bike the contactor is completely boxed in inside the steering head and is surrounded by all of the plastics, such that I cannot even hit it using my pressure washer. The only way its ever gonna see water is if I dunk the bike up to the handlebars. Ain't gonna happen cause I don't ride in the river. :-)

 

contactor-relocate-0.png

 

Look around and perhaps you might find a protected area up high on the frame to mount your contactor that will allow you to use your existing short cables. Dielectric grease every electric connection liberally as you assemble and pack some inside the terminal boots to prevent long-term corrosion issues. If you intend to ride in deep water (or can hit it with a pressure washer, or just want it to last forever like I do) disassemble your contactor before mounting it to dielectric grease the high-current contacts inside to prevent arcing and sticking, and seal the housing and terminal stud holes in the housing using silicone gasket maker as you reassemble. When you get done the contactor should be submersible.

 

If you can, keep us posted on your solution so we can learn from it.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

That may well be a better idea, Retro, if I can get in there to mount it. 

 

I also didn't like the idea of mounting it to the plastic at the trunk area. 

 

If I can get it up there by the steering I won't have to drive all over the state looking for wire.

 

I'll post about the continuing saga, but maybe later as I have a ibt of a cold at this time.

 

And cold weather out doesn't help it.

dc

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Your frame will be differently made than my old 2000, but hopefully there is a good protective area to be found for a contactor mounting location. There is more than one way to accomplish most things...

Another person tipped me off on that steering head area. Before I moved my contactor I had it clamped to the frame near the rear of the bike where it was getting hit with mud and water. If you need any 6 AWG welding cable, or copper lug terminals or anything else PM me, I probably have everything you'll need on hand to finish your wiring, cost ya nothing 'cept your time waitin' for the package to arrive.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I know you can fit the solenoid inside the steering tower on both the 300s and the 450s cause I have done it on both ..... 

fullsizeoutput_342.jpeg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

when I look back at that pic I posted , it is deceiving , I bolted the solenoid to a plate , hooked all the wires up where they were easy to get to , then pushed it in and screwed the plate in with self drilling screws , so it goes farther up in there then the pic , I then cover the solenoid with a piece of rubber  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I mounted mine for my Warn winch under the seat next to the battery, the wires that came with it were long enough.  

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

On these new wheelers I mount them to the rack cross bar above the battery. A couple u bolts or even zip ties and just tight enough to hold it in place. It can be rotated up out of the way when needed and the wiring just reaches when routed. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

I'm still working on it.  Mostly by thinking about it.

 

I did find the electrical supply store, but they didn't have anything that wasn't stiff wire.  They did have the connectors tho'.  And I have ordered a pair of pliers which should criimp them nicely.

 

I finally went with the wire from NAPA.  It's not as soft as the Warn wires, but it's not as stiff as the Home Depot #8 wire. Half way between, I guess.

 

I'm still looking around for a nice place to mount the controller.

 

I'm also trying to figure out which wire to switch if the switch runs opposite to what reads on the switch, in/out, that is.

 

I suppose I could just switch the wires from the winch motor to the controller.  Then in and out would correspond to the switch reading if it doesn't start out right.

 

Thanks to all.

dc

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...