88trx350d

[Raystrx350d 47]

To recap, I fixed the mechanical problem, got it back together no spark. So I bought oem cdi, called a Honda dealership of Danville VA. They said it was one in NY. ( someone asked ) all the lights work or have power. Stator and pick up coil all in specs. I did buy the rest of the parts from a place called Celtics in California.  When I turn key on oil temp light comes on for couple seconds.  Neutral light comes on. Spins over with starter switch.  I'll take pictures and post tomorrow well today now. I have a guy coming over in a day or two that's good.  If he gets it firing I will come back and let everyone know what problem was and what fixed it. I see alot of people get advice from you guys and get there's fixed and never even come back. Thanks for everyone taking the time to reply.  

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

1 hour ago, Raystrx350d said:

New here sorry, did I reply to this post? 

If not I apologize but I will.

 

Nah your fine no worries bro, n you bring up a good point... We hope people stay.. EVEN.. After the fix... What you have had happen might in fact help someone else further down the line..... N you'd be very hard pressed to find a better group of dedicated friends anywheres... 

Edited February 16, 2023 by _Wilson_™

[jeepwm69 7,611]

10 hours ago, Raystrx350d said:

To recap, I fixed the mechanical problem, got it back together no spark. So I bought oem cdi, called a Honda dealership of Danville VA. They said it was one in NY. ( someone asked ) all the lights work or have power. Stator and pick up coil all in specs. I did buy the rest of the parts from a place called Celtics in California.  When I turn key on oil temp light comes on for couple seconds.  Neutral light comes on. Spins over with starter switch.  I'll take pictures and post tomorrow well today now. I have a guy coming over in a day or two that's good.  If he gets it firing I will come back and let everyone know what problem was and what fixed it. I see alot of people get advice from you guys and get there's fixed and never even come back. Thanks for everyone taking the time to reply.  

 

Caltric?  That's not good.  Some of their stuff is ok, but most of it is Chinese junk.  What all did you get from them?

[Raystrx350d 47]

10 hours ago, Raystrx350d said:

To recap, I fixed the mechanical problem, got it back together no spark. So I bought oem cdi, called a Honda dealership of Danville VA. They said it was one in NY. ( someone asked ) all the lights work or have power. Stator and pick up coil all in specs. I did buy the rest of the parts from a place called Celtics in California.  When I turn key on oil temp light comes on for couple seconds.  Neutral light comes on. Spins over with starter switch.  I'll take pictures and post tomorrow well today now. I have a guy coming over in a day or two that's good.  If he gets it firing I will come back and let everyone know what problem was and what fixed it. I see alot of people get advice from you guys and get there's fixed and never even come back. Thanks for everyone taking the time to reply.  

 

Just now, jeepwm69 said:

 

Caltric?  That's not good.  Some of their stuff is ok, but most of it is Chinese junk.  What all did you get from them?

Stator, coil, pick up coil, rectifier, fuel pump 

[shadetree 5,869]

On 2/16/2023 at 10:10 AM, Raystrx350d said:

 

Stator, coil, pick up coil, rectifier, fuel pump 

send it all back..pure junk..lol.

[Raystrx350d 47]

10 hours ago, shadetree said:

send it all back..pure junk..lol.

They passed all the test.. even ran all the test I saw retro post about wires at the cdi box .. past all the test???? 

[Goober 1,555]

Sorry kinda late. Revolution Research Line is the 88-93 ignition system. It’s different from 86-87 TRX350A in that it does not have an exciter coil—or pickup coil as you referred to it. 
the Foreman doesn’t have an exciter coil.

My reading of the RRL indicates the CDI amplifies the spark. So let’s focus on that.
if you used a n aftermarket stator the directions might have directed you to leave the exciter coil (black/red) unplugged or it might have only come with a green (ground) and Blue/yellow wire (pulse generator). 
i will copy the schematic for you tomorrow. I see you got wires all over. So just take a break from the meter and just try to understand how the system should work.

Are you sure it’s a TRX350D? 

Edited February 21, 2023 by Goober

[CaptCoolbreeze 32]

Howdy.

I just had to replace a battery. Charged to 15.5 volts but would not crank. Took it to Battery Master they tested it for load.  It was bad. 

Wife bought me a battery.❤️

[Raystrx350d 47]

13 hours ago, Goober said:

Sorry kinda late. Revolution Research Line is the 88-93 ignition system. It’s different from 86-87 TRX350A in that it does not have an exciter coil—or pickup coil as you referred to it. 
the Foreman doesn’t have an exciter coil.

My reading of the RRL indicates the CDI amplifies the spark. So let’s focus on that.
if you used a n aftermarket stator the directions might have directed you to leave the exciter coil (black/red) unplugged or it might have only come with a green (ground) and Blue/yellow wire (pulse generator). 
i will copy the schematic for you tomorrow. I see you got wires all over. So just take a break from the meter and just try to understand how the system should work.

Are you sure it’s a TRX350D? 

Thanks for the help! I was told it was a 90 trx350d. On the frame up front it says 88 trx350d it's blue from the factory. 

I bought a repair manual for it. I've went over everything.  You're correct mine is a foreman and doesn't have the exciter. 

What I was referring to was the pick up coil next to the stator. I bought a new oem cdi box. Still no spark. Could it have gone bad sitting over 30 years? I read where a guy named retro gave a list of what and how to check the wires at the cdi box. I tested those last night and all was just as he said it should be. All the lights work, high low beam etc. Have battery voltage at bw wire at cdi . Fuel pump doesn't turn on when switch is turned on and no spark. Switch is good, spins over with it. No power on black yellow wire going to coil or cdi or going to Fuel pump. What powers this wire? Thanks in advance! 

[shadetree 5,869]

53 minutes ago, Raystrx350d said:

Thanks for the help! I was told it was a 90 trx350d. On the frame up front it says 88 trx350d it's blue from the factory. 

I bought a repair manual for it. I've went over everything.  You're correct mine is a foreman and doesn't have the exciter. 

What I was referring to was the pick up coil next to the stator. I bought a new oem cdi box. Still no spark. Could it have gone bad sitting over 30 years? I read where a guy named retro gave a list of what and how to check the wires at the cdi box. I tested those last night and all was just as he said it should be. All the lights work, high low beam etc. Have battery voltage at bw wire at cdi . Fuel pump doesn't turn on when switch is turned on and no spark. Switch is good, spins over with it. No power on black yellow wire going to coil or cdi or going to Fuel pump. What powers this wire? Thanks in advance! 

fuel pump wont cycle unless its cranking over. it has a fuel cut-off relay above the right rear wheel, inside the metal box, its black, with a red connector.

[Goober 1,555]

Trying to upload Schematic — not going up—you can use this to trace.
 

go to page 17-3

my thought is fuel system malfunction. If you’re not getting pump to come on, then see if you can jump the circuit by performing fuel flow test on page 20-8.

 

see the fuze block (4 + spare) and fifth fuze in a separate holder. make sure pump fuze is good by testing voltage at Black/Green wires at both the left hand multi switch and fuel cut relay. I think you’ve already successfully done this. 

 

you’re talking about the pulse generator—yes these can go bad—check resistance 300-360 Ohm by testing at the connectors under the right side cover.  Additionally check for continuity of the pulse generator to the CDI using the Blue/Yellow and Green/White CDi harness connectors. This should give you a complete circuit.

[Goober 1,555]

Check RRL Y connection. It should be a single Y wire coming off stator—separate from the 3 yellow wires coming off stator

Edited February 21, 2023 by Goober

[Raystrx350d 47]

2 hours ago, shadetree said:

fuel pump wont cycle unless its cranking over. it has a fuel cut-off relay above the right rear wheel, inside the metal box, its black, with a red connector.

I've found that, it's no power on the black and yellow wire. It runs from the fuel pump relay to cdi box then back to coil.

What powers that wire? Thanks for the help! 

[Raystrx350d 47]

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Trying to upload Schematic — not going up—you can use this to trace.
 

go to page 17-3

my thought is fuel system malfunction. If you’re not getting pump to come on, then see if you can jump the circuit by performing fuel flow test on page 20-8.

 

see the fuze block (4 + spare) and fifth fuze in a separate holder. make sure pump fuze is good by testing voltage at Black/Green wires at both the left hand multi switch and fuel cut relay. I think you’ve already successfully done this. 

 

you’re talking about the pulse generator—yes these can go bad—check resistance 300-360 Ohm by testing at the connectors under the right side cover.  Additionally check for continuity of the pulse generator to the CDI using the Blue/Yellow and Green/White CDi harness connectors. This should give you a complete circuit.

Ok Have power on green and black wire, checked the pulse generator has about 400 ohm, spinning it over has about 350 ohms 

[Raystrx350d 47]

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Check RRL Y connection. It should be a single Y wire coming off stator—separate from the 3 yellow wires coming off stator

You're correct it does have this wire separate. Do I check it for voltage or ohms? Sorry very new to this but I can follow directions! 

[Raystrx350d 47]

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Trying to upload Schematic — not going up—you can use this to trace.
 

go to page 17-3

my thought is fuel system malfunction. If you’re not getting pump to come on, then see if you can jump the circuit by performing fuel flow test on page 20-8.

 

see the fuze block (4 + spare) and fifth fuze in a separate holder. make sure pump fuze is good by testing voltage at Black/Green wires at both the left hand multi switch and fuel cut relay. I think you’ve already successfully done this. 

 

you’re talking about the pulse generator—yes these can go bad—check resistance 300-360 Ohm by testing at the connectors under the right side cover.  Additionally check for continuity of the pulse generator to the CDI using the Blue/Yellow and Green/White CDi harness connectors. This should give you a complete circuit.

I'll try the fuel flow test! Thank you!

[shadetree 5,869]

28 minutes ago, Raystrx350d said:

I've found that, it's no power on the black and yellow wire. It runs from the fuel pump relay to cdi box then back to coil.

What powers that wire? Thanks for the help! 

fuel relay gets its power signal from the pick up coil. this is why the fuel pump only pumps when the engine is being cranked over.

[Raystrx350d 47]

2 hours ago, Goober said:

Check RRL Y connection. It should be a single Y wire coming off stator—separate from the 3 yellow wires coming off stator

On the cdi side the yellow wire has 15.40 omhs 2 ohms oh the engine side

No voltage on either side.

[Raystrx350d 47]

58 minutes ago, Raystrx350d said:

I'll try the fuel flow test! Thank you!

I have battery voltage at green and black wire at fuel pump relay.. it's said to run jumper wire from that terminal to blue and black wire and should have 12 volts there. DONT .. do you know what would cause this?

[Raystrx350d 47]

18 minutes ago, Raystrx350d said:

I have battery voltage at green and black wire at fuel pump relay.. it's said to run jumper wire from that terminal to blue and black wire and should have 12 volts there. DONT .. do you know what would cause this?

It also said to text fuel pump wires for voltage.. I have none!! Tested the fuel pump straight 12 volts it works . What will kill the voltage ?

[shadetree 5,869]

43 minutes ago, Raystrx350d said:

It also said to text fuel pump wires for voltage.. I have none!! Tested the fuel pump straight 12 volts it works . What will kill the voltage ?

the fuel cut-off relay, how many times must i point this out ?..lol. if the relay is bad ?, the fuel pump wont work.

[Raystrx350d 47]

1 hour ago, shadetree said:

the fuel cut-off relay, how many times must i point this out ?..lol. if the relay is bad ?, the fuel pump wont work.

Lol sorry must have missed it somewhere.. I'll see if I can find a oem one

[Goober 1,555]

If you need a fuel cut relay, Rocky Mountain has the $70

use the oem parts finder at Rocky Mountain atv and partzilla

i tried to paste the link but website not having it.

 

Edited February 22, 2023 by Goober

[Goober 1,555]

You said you got a new fuel relay already?

 

the resistance is a leetle high on the pulse generator. Did you check it at the leads under the right side cover or CDI?

 

for the RRL Y wire you’re only checking for continuity from the Y wire thru the 3 other yellow wires at the stator 3-p connector (3P). You can measure resistance but it will vary with temperature.

then test for continuity from the Y wire to body ground—you should get zero continuity. OL on your meter.

edit i put a confused emoji on your comment i didn’t know what you meant by engine side.

Edited February 22, 2023 by Goober

[Goober 1,555]

15 hours ago, Raystrx350d said:

It also said to text fuel pump wires for voltage.. I have none!! Tested the fuel pump straight 12 volts it works . What will kill the voltage ?

Well two things I know of. The fuel cut relay could be malfunctioning or the ground is bad (circuit not complete). Keep reading. if you already changed the fuel cut relay (oem). Then inspect the green wires for damage and try wiggling them while you have the jumper wires on. 
 

test fuel pump circuit grounds for continuity : red lead of meter to green wire connection leading to fuel pump (not pump wire). Same on cut relay connector terminal (not relay). Black meter lead to a bolt on the frame. Should get continuity.

Edited February 22, 2023 by Goober