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Hi!

I never owned a VTT and I'm a Software Engineer with very basin knowledge in Mechanics. Last autumn, I got 2 Fourtrax (86' and 91') that have been stored for a few years for cheap, and one more for pieces. I already have a tread on another forum but @shadetree really really want me to post my projects here 😉 This thread is for the 86' restoration!

 

Plastics are not in good shape, but I'll use it on my woodland so I don't care.. for now 🙂

original.jpg

 

First I changed battery, Spark plug, drained old gas / oil than used a bit of Sea Foam in gas tank and Marvel Mystery Oil inside the cylinder to make it start! 

 

Now the real fun start, engine doesn't sounds good when running and something continue spinning after stopping it: https://photos.app.goo.gl/7jEyWZkM99TYcr5u5  

 

With the help of @shadetree I confirmed that Timing chain is dead, I can insert adjuster almost completely and after removing the cover, I saw damages caused by the chain probably hitting cover while running

IMG_20200501_162118.jpg IMG_20200430_185825.jpg 

 

And the spinning sounds is caused by the from Centrifugal clutch one way bearing totally dead, and the linings are totally worn too.

IMG_20200502_113348.jpg IMG_20200502_113907.jpg

 

Hopefully, the Centrifugal clutch and Bearing on my "parts vtt" seems in good shape, si I will use this one. Now I'm waiting for a new chain, gasket, orings, sealing washers this week!

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Here is the Centrifugal clutch from my "parts vtt". On the side by side picture, the old one is on the left and the "new old one" on the right. Arms are worn too but it seems impossible to find Aftermarket so I hope it will do the job

 

IMG_20200503_132934.jpg IMG_20200503_133554.jpg

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Welcome aboard, and thanks for the pics.  We like pics!

 

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bout time you started posting pics !..lol. your in great hands here !.

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Posted (edited)
1 hour ago, shadetree said:

bout time you started posting pics !..lol. your in great hands here !.

 

And I already have a Question, what do you recommend to cleanup my crankcase / cover, remove the old gasket and prepare surface for new one ?

Think to use a wood chisel very gently to remove old gasket and I have 600 grit Emery Cloth but I'm pretty sure it's a band idea to use that 🙂 So what do you recommend?

Edited by JPelletier
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Also, since my secondary clutch will be out for 1 week do I have to soak it in new oil before installing it? And I saw in another post that loctite is required on secondary clutch four bolts?? Nothing about that in manual 

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1 hour ago, JPelletier said:

Also, since my secondary clutch will be out for 1 week do I have to soak it in new oil before installing it? And I saw in another post that loctite is required on secondary clutch four bolts?? Nothing about that in manual 

dont need to soak anything on the centrifugal clutch if its used ?, new..yes..old..no. same goes for the friction disk in the change clutch. no, do not use loctite on the change clutch bolts, i dont anyway. for removing gaskets ?, i use a utility knife blade, pocket knife, scrape most off, then i use my bench grinder that has a wire wheel on it to remove the remaining gasket, if you do it this way ?, try not to hold it in one spot very long !, you do not want to make the sealing surface uneven !.

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10 hours ago, JPelletier said:

 

And I already have a Question, what do you recommend to cleanup my crankcase / cover, remove the old gasket and prepare surface for new one ?

Think to use a wood chisel very gently to remove old gasket and I have 600 grit Emery Cloth but I'm pretty sure it's a band idea to use that 🙂 So what do you recommend?

I soak the gasket with a little carb cleaner —loosens it up. Then i use a plastic decal scraper. I haven’t removed a lotta gaskets but i hate scratching the case and carb metals.

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Posted (edited)
18 hours ago, JPelletier said:

 

And I already have a Question, what do you recommend to cleanup my crankcase / cover, remove the old gasket and prepare surface for new one ?

Think to use a wood chisel very gently to remove old gasket and I have 600 grit Emery Cloth but I'm pretty sure it's a band idea to use that 🙂 So what do you recommend?

I had the same problem, didn't want to wire wheel everything, theres a really good WD 40 cleaner you can get at canadian tire, comes in a spray bottle.

As for gasket material, I used a very sharp blade, and patiently went around everything. Took for ever.

Ca prend la patience.

Edited by TRX Student
Incomplete

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15 minutes ago, TRX Student said:

I had the same problem, didn't want to wire wheel everything, theres a really good WD 40 cleaner you can get at canadian tire, comes in a spray bottle.

As for gasket material, I used a very sharp blade, and patiently went around everything. Took for ever.

Ca prend la patience.

 

Ok thanks, will take a look because they don't have any gasket remover in stock near me and shipping will take too long 

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Posted (edited)
10 hours ago, shadetree said:

dont need to soak anything on the centrifugal clutch if its used ?, new..yes..old..no. same goes for the friction disk in the change clutch. no, do not use loctite on the change clutch bolts, i dont anyway. for removing gaskets ?, i use a utility knife blade, pocket knife, scrape most off, then i use my bench grinder that has a wire wheel on it to remove the remaining gasket, if you do it this way ?, try not to hold it in one spot very long !, you do not want to make the sealing surface uneven !.

 

Perfect, will not soak them they are used. 

 

8 hours ago, Goober said:

I soak the gasket with a little carb cleaner —loosens it up. Then i use a plastic decal scraper. I haven’t removed a lotta gaskets but i hate scratching the case and carb metals.

 

Yeah I already hate that lol, will try with plastic scraper. 

 

Another question, for my cylinder head cover I wanted to use Hondabond HT but the dealer near me said they are using permatex ultra grey or black!!! I was very surprised since even Permatex say:

Quote

Never use an RTV gasket maker on an application that will be exposed to gasoline, such as a powersports vehicle

Source: https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/

 

They only have Hondabond 4 in stock right now, can I use that for my cylinder head cover or I should order HT ?

Edited by JPelletier

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I've been using a razor blade.   I'm usually bleeding pretty good by the time I get a gasket removed. LOL

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these come in handy .... i use the short model ... but yes!  still get sliced up pretty good ... lol

image.jpg

image.jpg

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Posted (edited)

Today I rebuilded my Carburetor, first time I do that. Now in the manual they say "adjust synchronization by opening or closing the slot in the throttle link" but I don't have any slot, it has been removed by previous owner, can this cause issue?

 

IMG_20200505_135929.jpg

Here is a video showing my throttle in action: https://photos.app.goo.gl/2mGoSNtGSbGJUcEC6

 

Thanks!

Edited by JPelletier
added image

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Yep-

Previous owner broke the adjusting tang off

I would recommend getting a parts carb off ebay and rebuild it if you want it to be right

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3 minutes ago, AKATV said:

Yep-

Previous owner broke the adjusting tang off

I would recommend getting a parts carb off ebay and rebuild it if you want it to be right

 

But if you look at video, it doesn't seems that bad on synchronisation. @shadetree your thoughts on that? I also would like your opinion on my hondabond question 🙂 

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Posted (edited)

 

 

 

As per the service manual, there is supposed to be no clearance between throttle link and the valve shaft (no play)

It is impossible to adjust the play out with no adjusting tang left

I would imagine it will still run fairly well-but if you want it to be correct, you will need to replace tang or carburetor

 

 

image.png

 

Edited by AKATV
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Just now, AKATV said:

Per manual there supposed to be no clearance between throttle link and valve shaft (no play)

Impossible to adjust the play out with no adjusting tang left

I would imagine it will still run-but if you want it to be correct you will need to replace tang or carburetor

 

Yeah I know, but if you look at my picture, shaft arm is touching throttle link so I don't have any play there

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Yep, looks they just bent that tab down to make up for the adjusting tang being gone

If there is no play you will be fine-I have had quite a few that came in with lots of play and they still ran great

Did not know how "right" you wanted it to be, but it should run just fine that way

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12 hours ago, JPelletier said:

 

Perfect, will not soak them they are used. 

 

 

Yeah I already hate that lol, will try with plastic scraper. 

 

Another question, for my cylinder head cover I wanted to use Hondabond HT but the dealer near me said they are using permatex ultra grey or black!!! I was very surprised since even Permatex say:

Source: https://www.permatex.com/ten-common-gasketing-mistakes/

 

They only have Hondabond 4 in stock right now, can I use that for my cylinder head cover or I should order HT ?

hondabond 4 will work great.

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Posted (edited)

Just received my chain, it's not what ordered! I don't understand anything in all those numbers / letters on chains. Will this fit? 

 

I asked for SCA-0412A SDH, I finally found detailed informations and it SCR seems a bit stronger, narrower (10.3mm vs 11mm) and have a bit more height (6.85mm vs 6.70mm)

 

 

 

IMG_20200507_195924.jpg

Screenshot_20200507-200956.png

Screenshot_20200507-200956~2.png

Edited by JPelletier

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@shadetree @Goober your thoughts on the chain? I took a picture of the "fitment", don't know if it should perfectly sit on the gear or those small gaps are normal. I don'T want to do it twice 🙂

 

IMG_20200508_103258.jpg

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Posted (edited)

I'm also trying to find molybdenum disulfide grease for my Camshaft, called 2 car parts store 2 ATV shop including Honda dealer... can't find it! Only thing I've found is Permatex 81950 Ultra Slick Engine Assembly Lube, seems to be for camshaft but not moly

Edited by JPelletier

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21 minutes ago, Melatv said:

 

Humm are you 100% sure, this is not an engine assembly grease it's more for chassis parts like this one: https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/rotella-special-duty-moly-grease-400-g-0280841p.html no ??

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