jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 23, 2021 This is what I picked up. Need to make sure it’s compatible. Brought the tractor home this afternoon. Going to pick up a filter tomorrow 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 24, 2021 (edited) 9 hours ago, Fishfiles said: The best oil in my eyes for your tractor is HGFluid ( High Guard Fluid ) also called Tractor transmission and hydraulic fluid , it is a thick hydraulic fluid, 68 weight -------- Tractor Supply has it for $25 per 5 gallons ----- but I see people put the cheapest 10w hydraulic oil and they keep running I don't know your model if it has any tricks to bleeding it , It should bleed itself --- I doubt you are going to get all the oil all out anyways -------- if it is noisy on crank up , kill it, fill it again to full , and then let it settle for a while for the air bubbles to settle out naw ..... no bleeding except for the brakes.... there's a bleeder ontop of each rear drive, just as the axle extends from the housing, but the brake system on those models are not pressurized.... but, just as much foot pressure you apply to ether the right, or left peddle. but yeah put the oil in cold... most oil we deal with doesnt foam much, but there are exceptions. Quote I can’t see up in the radiator area very well. That’s why I mentioned taking the hood off in a prior post. I’d like to clean it out really well and check it over. you could, but we never remove ours just compressed air, but as i recall you wanted to check the fuel tank, so yes, to get a full view you'd have to remove the hood, just be careful, when lifting it off. Is there anything in particular I need to do to bleed air out or purge the system? I imagine air in a hydraulic system could cause lots of issues nope. just the brakes if the peddle get soft, or bottoms out. ^^^^^ and that's where you add hydraulic oil. (pic) Edited August 24, 2021 by _Wilson_™ 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 24, 2021 just a note jeep, i wouldn't keep using it till i did the sump screen filter and oil. you don't want to break this tractor in half!. for a simple issue that could be avoided. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 24, 2021 Oh it's getting drained, new filter, cleaned pickup, and new fluid before I run it again.. I drove it home yesterday afternoon so I can get all off that done at the house where my tools are. Thanks for the pointers. Last question. Does the transmission drain out of the filter bowl, or is there a separate drain bolt down there somewhere? Going to pressure wash the tractor good before I do anything. Will make not getting grass/dirt/debris into everything much easier. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 24, 2021 before you take that hex nut out can you show me more pics of the complete underside from the clutch housing back ? belly (both sides) there might be some differences from the 30 series and 40 series. and yes there should be a drain at the lowest part of the transmition, but sence I've not drained ours in a long time, I'm drawing a blank on exactly where it is sence the sump screen is one of the lowest points you can drain it from that point just stick your finger in till you feel the screen, and gently pull it out. mow I'm not sure right off hand how many gallons those hold, so have several buckets ready with the tops off. I'll see what else i can find on it. 2 hours ago, jeepwm69 said: Last question. Does the transmission drain out of the filter bowl, or is there a separate drain bolt down there somewhere? no sir, it will puke a little from oil already in the bowl, but no.... it will not drain from there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 24, 2021 17 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said: before you take that hex nut out can you show me more pics of the complete underside from the clutch housing back ? belly (both sides) there might be some differences from the 30 series and 40 series. and yes there should be a drain at the lowest part of the transmition, but sence I've not drained ours in a long time, I'm drawing a blank on exactly where it is sence the sump screen is one of the lowest points you can drain it from that point just stick your finger in till you feel the screen, and gently pull it out. mow I'm not sure right off hand how many gallons those hold, so have several buckets ready with the tops off. I'll see what else i can find on it. no sir, it will puke a little from oil already in the bowl, but no.... it will not drain from there. According to this, it holds 10 gals, which is perfect because that happens to be what I have on hand. https://www.tractordata.com/farm-tractors/000/0/9/92-john-deere-2640.html 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 24, 2021 when you get those other pics make sure full left side, and ride pics, and the belly pics..... i dont have the johndeere bible book on these models, I'm just going by memory... which on this model is short, because we just didnt have much trouble at all from her (knock on wood) 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 24, 2021 there's a bleeder ontop of each rear drive, just as the axle extends from the housing, this is incorrect! ^^^^ my bad, the fittings at the end of the housing where the axle comes out are grease fittings, the bleeders are here. #4 is the bleeder, #1 is the grease fitting, but most likely you will not have to bleed the brakes, (if you have the same amount of peddle you've always had) but if you do, they are very simple to bleed, just pump them up (one peddle at a time) crack the bleeder, if you don't see any air, just hydraulic fluid, your green and yellow, and good to go. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 24, 2021 jeep.... you can edit that other post if you like... but it doesn't bother me to be wrong... and admit it.... hey! that's the story of my life... haha, you learn by mistakes ;) also I've been digging around... and located this site, https://www.greentractortalk.com/ i joined up, but I don't think my handle will work _Wilson_™ ..... sigh anyways very good information there. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 25, 2021 Guessing this is the drain plug? 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 25, 2021 yes sir! it's looks have been wrenched on before, you know that hex plug for the sump screen access we were talking about? look on the other side straight across from the 1st hex plug and see if there's another hex plug .... sometimes the screen can be taken out from ether side, but i just used the same side as the filter / housing was on, because the filter housing will puke some, and just a note... when you pull that screen out, if it burps, loosen the fill cap, or unscrew the dip stick, to allow air in, and be sure to scoot that 5 gal bucket, because she's going to p!!s like a cow and a flat rock! i think ? the cap is vented ? I'll have to check more on that... but there has to be a vent at a high point it might well be under the seat ? i really wish you would post more pics!! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 25, 2021 I’ll try to get some more in the morning. Got 2 empty 5 gallon buckets out today after work and plan on draining in the morning 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 25, 2021 As promised, more pics. As you can see, the radiator is quite a mess. I'm pretty sure that's a previous repair blocking the fins on the left (driver's side). The oil cooler side looks like it could use some cleaning as well. I still think the "right" way to do this would be to remove the rad and really look it over. If I can't get the majority of the fins cleaned out I would say replacing it would be the proper course of action, but I priced them and ! green parts are expensive. I pulled the drain plug this morning and fluid came gushing out....for about 30 seconds. Looks like either a lot of fluid is still up in the system/pump, or I was WAAAAY low on fluid. I suspect I have a leak somewhere that I will find when I refill this thing completely with new fluid. Going to stop at the local deere shop and buy a filter after work. They don't even give you lube when you buy parts locally, but ordering online I'll have to pay shipping, so will just get locally. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 25, 2021 I only got a couple of gals of hydraulic fluid out with the initial gush. It was still slowly dripping/oozing, so I put an empty 5 gal bucket under it and left it. Had to get ready for work. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted August 25, 2021 Pic is very blurry ^^^^ , but that looks like the radiator matted up bad , looks like where your over heating problem was coming from ----- That tractor being older , no doubt , that hydraulic filter will cross over to a Donaldson , Baldwin or WIX ( NAPA ) and cost 1/2 of what Deere is going to get for it ---- Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 25, 2021 that's all the oil that came out ?? and this came out from the drain bolt port, or the sump screen access port, or both ? what did the screen look like ? I've never seen black / dark colored hydraulic oil like that, and your radioator fins (some i see folded down, but the oil cooler looks good, till it's get to bottom portion.... but that cooler is for the hydraulic oil, the engine oil cooler is on the same side just behind the alternator, it wouldn't hurt to do a cleaning on the radioator, you might try a fin straightener to line the folded fins back right.... one more question, do the brakes chatter when you try and stop ? if so they need to be replaced, or not used at all!! because all it will,do is fill the oil with super fine metalic fillings, and for her age she doesn't look bad ... at all!! if that's all the oil that came out she was way low, which explain the cutter shutting off. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 25, 2021 3 hours ago, Fishfiles said: Pic is very blurry ^^^^ , but that looks like the radiator matted up bad , looks like where your over heating problem was coming from ----- That tractor being older , no doubt , that hydraulic filter will cross over to a Donaldson , Baldwin or WIX ( NAPA ) and cost 1/2 of what Deere is going to get for it ---- Hmmmmm. I like Wix. Didn't even think about Napa carrying a tractor transmission filter, but I'll go that route if my local NAPA has one! I haven't pulled the filter or the screen yet, but that's all the fluid that came out quickly when I pulled the drain bolt. It was still dripping/ barely running out when I left for work. When I get home I'll see how much more came out into the empty 5 gal bucket I slid under there. I noticed a drip from one of the quick connects on the back, so I'm guessing I have a leak, thus over time it looks like I've ended up with very little fluid in there Fluid was kind of a bluish green tint. Not what I was expecting. Radiator definitely needs work. I'm tempted to just pull it and take it to the local radiator shop. Guy is great at reworking rads, has been around for a long time. Brakes work fine. Honestly I rarely use them, but when I do need them, they work without issue. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 25, 2021 i hope your local dealership hasnt been taken over like ours was! try green dealerships don't know there a-- from a hole in the ground here, there best working on deere mowers and other deere toys, but not the big equiptment, thank goodness the baker boys are still the best deere dealership around! Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 25, 2021 (edited) we always went with deere brand filters, but wix is fine as well. Baldwin PT87S Edited August 25, 2021 by _Wilson_™ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 25, 2021 Local Deere dealership was family owned by my best friend's family growing up. Grandfather sold it to "Greenway" late in his life, because my buddy and his dad both wanted to farm instead of running the dealership. Deere Corp would not approve the sale to any of the locally interested parties, so they basically forced the sale to Greenway. So no, we have Deere Corp run dealership here now. Sucks. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 25, 2021 (edited) 14 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said: Fluid was kind of a bluish green tint. Not what I was expecting. I've seen it dyed before green, but most of the time it's slightly yellow, and transparent. 14 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said: I noticed a drip from one of the quick connects on the back, so I'm guessing I have a leak, thus over time it looks like I've ended up with very little fluid in there yes i noticed that to, but those outlets often drip a tad .... but still would take years to loose that much oil from a drip, now i have seen them go bad, and if you use the lever... (which your not because that's a 3-point hitch cutter) i have seen fluid just shoot out.... to check this .....when your all done, bck up and running again push the hydraulic to raise, the to lower... if no fluid shoots out there fine. that's basically the same as tri green pulled here, but the farmer backed the baker boys, and they had enough power to open there own deere dealership, and they get just about all the customers .... oh and if it didn't burp while draining .... your vent is fine. Edited August 25, 2021 by _Wilson_™ Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Fishfiles 20,145 Posted August 25, 2021 @jeepwm69 Give me the model number of your machine and I can get you a cross over 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
jeepwm69 7,630 Posted August 25, 2021 2640 John Deere. I think it's a 76 or 77 model Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
_Wilson_™ 6,568 Posted August 25, 2021 jeep.... i noticed something you might change on the 3-point hitch sway blocks, that cutter is a class two, right ? and it sways in the back end ? me let put this another way... is there a gap between the drop arms and the sway blocks ? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites