Let's talk farm equipment

[Fishfiles 20,145]

23 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

2640 John Deere.  I think it's a 76 or 77 model

John Deere comes up as a 2650 , didn't show a 2640   -----   2650 John Deere hydraulic filter number =  AR75603 , specs = 4.6 " O.D. , 2 1/8 " I.D. 5 1/4 "  high   -----  John Deere doesn't make filters , Donaldson is the OEM filter , that number is P555603 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

Model 2640 comes up in this chart , that filter fits a lot of machines , the cross over numbers  are 

• Replaces John Deere OEM nos AR28271, AT34670, AR75603
• Replaces Mfg nos DONALDSON P555603, FLEETGUARD HF6079, FRAM C1721, WIX 51147

• Fits John Deere Tractor(s) 80, 440, 544, 700, 820, 830, 840, 920, 940, 1020, 1030, 1040, 1120, 1130, 1140, 1350, 1520, 1530, 1550, 1630, 1640, 1750, 1830, 1840, 1850, 1950, 2020, 2030, 2040, 2040S, 2120, 2130, 2140, 2150, 2155, 2240, 2250, 2255, 2350, 2355, 2355N, 2440, 2450, 2510, 2520, 2550, 2555, 2630, 2640, 2650, 2650N, 2750, 2755, 2850, 2855N, 2940, 2950, 2955, 3010, 3020, 3030, 3040, 3050, 3055, 3130, 3140, 3150, 3155, 3255, 3350, 3640, 3650, 4000, 4010, 4020, 4030, 4230, 4320, 4430, 4520, 4620, 4630, 5010, 5020, 6030, 7020, 7520, 7720, 8630
• Fits John Deere Combine(s) 4400 (With 303 Diesel Engine)
• Fits John Deere Construction & Industrial(s) 300, 300B, 301, 301A, 302, 302A, 310, 310A, 310B, 400, 401, 401A, 401B, 401C, 401D, 410, 440, 440A, 440B, 440C, 444, 444C, 444CH, 500, 500A, 500B, 500C, 510, 540, 540A, 540B, 544, 544A, 544B, 544C, 550, 550A, 550B, 555, 555A, 555B, 570, 570A, 570B, 600, 640, 644, 644A, 644B, 644C, 646, 646B, 646C, 740, 743, 760A, 860, 860A, 860B

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

they might not make them anymore, but they used to.

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

jeep.... i noticed something you might change on the 3-point hitch sway blocks, that cutter is a class two, right ? and it sways in the back  end ? me let put this another way... is there a gap between the drop arms and the sway blocks ? 

 

there very well could be a leak at the load shaft / rock shaft.... and most likely would not leak much sitting still, but when you are  using the tractor / 3-point hitch .... the leak would be worse, and this would explain oil loss.... check where the drop arms attach to the (belly of the tractor) >>> rock shaft / load shaft, and see if there is any oil residue .... the reason would be if the cutter sways back and forth, it would cause early failure of the rock shaft / load shaft seals, this is why the sway blocks might need to be turned to category 2 it's hard to tell from the pic, but looks like that cutter is category 1 

[WonderMonkey 720]

2 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

there very well could be a leak at the load shaft / rock shaft.... and most likely would not leak much sitting still, but when you are  using the tractor / 3-point hitch .... the leak would be worse, and this would explain oil loss.... check where the drop arms attach to the (belly of the tractor) >>> rock shaft / load shaft, and see if there is any oil residue .... the reason would be if the cutter sways back and forth, it would cause early failure of the rock shaft / load shaft seals, this is why the sway blocks might need to be turned to category 2 it's hard to tell from the pic, but looks like that cutter is category 1 

 

"shaft"

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

jeep turning those sway blocks is simple.... the sway blocks are located just on the inside of each drop arm.... there should be two counter sunk bolts to the inside of the mounting plate (pto side) take those out.... remove the blocks turn them 90 degrees to where the curve side facing the drop arms.... clean off any dirt, derbies,  grease from both the mounting plate, and sway block... line up the dowl pin holes and reinstall the bolts, DO NOT USE ANY THREAD LOCKER! stopping the swaying cutter will save the shaft seals, and stop any 3-point hitch slap. 

Edited August 25, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[Fishfiles 20,145]

3 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

they might not make them anymore, but they used to.

I did some research on John Deer making their own filters as that didn't sound right to me , seems they never did make their own filters , from 1930-1972 Champion Laboratories  made them for John Deer , who just put their name on them , then after 1972 Donaldson among other companies took over some of the load 

[jeepwm69 7,611]

 I managed to pick up a NAPA gold filter on my way home. 10 bucks. 

 

 Got the new filter installed and took the screen out and cleaned it and reinstalled.

 

Screen didn’t  look bad, but I cleaned it up before reinstalling.

 

Plan is to fill it up in the morning and then I’ll see how it does tomorrow after work.

 

I’m going to have to look them up bit more into this class one/ class two stuff. I believe when the three-point is attached to the bush hog there is very little side to side motion. They are tight going up on the bushel, to the point where I have to have it perfectly aligned to get the arms far enough up on there to put the retaining pin in

 

Thanks for the input!

[jeepwm69 7,611]

I probably ended up with about 4 gallons of fluid. About as much came out when I pulled the screen as did when I pulled the drain plug.

 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

no the sump screen didnt look bad at all! you might have to check the o-ring on the filter housing.... sometimes those can move out of position when you put it back into the housing, but you will not loose much oil at all. 

 

I'd say low was the issue.... on there's a knob on top of the drop arms... you can pull up, and the drop extensions will slide out to help with hitching up, then to lock them, you just back up, then to check them pull forward just a tad to see if they locked back in, now those are bad about not working due to the mud, crud, water etc. 

[56Sierra 1,844]

14 hours ago, Fishfiles said:

I did some research on John Deer making their own filters as that didn't sound right to me , seems they never did make their own filters , from 1930-1972 Champion Laboratories  made them for John Deer , who just put their name on them , then after 1972 Donaldson among other companies took over some of the load 

At one time the Walmart brand, Supertech filters were made by Champion.  Not to be confused with the spark plug.  Testing of those filters sez they were very good too.  I've used a bunch of them.  Open the lid and check for Made in USA before buying since Walmart has a strict quality control department never letting quality getting in the way of price.

[jeepwm69 7,611]

16 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

jeep turning those sway blocks is simple.... the sway blocks are located just on the inside of each drop arm.... there should be two counter sunk bolts to the inside of the mounting plate (pto side) take those out.... remove the blocks turn them 90 degrees to where the curve side facing the drop arms.... clean off any dirt, derbies,  grease from both the mounting plate, and sway block... line up the dowl pin holes and reinstall the bolts, DO NOT USE ANY THREAD LOCKER! stopping the swaying cutter will save the shaft seals, and stop any 3-point hitch slap. 

 

Just looked into this and think I understand the concept now.  I was lazy and didn't get up at dawn as intended, so haven't messed with the tractor again yet.

 

Will fill it with fluid, check the three point for evidence of leaks, and check the sway blocks and make sure they are set where the hitch arms can't sway.

 

So with them in the proper position, when I pull the bush hog up off the ground, I shouldn't be able to move the thing side to side much as the arms will be up against the sway block limiting movement.  Is that correct?

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

12 minutes ago, jeepwm69 said:

So with them in the proper position, when I pull the bush hog up off the ground, I shouldn't be able to move the thing side to side much as the arms will be up against the sway block limiting movement.  Is that correct?

 

yes! ^^^^ well... there should be a tad bit... but with age, and a deferent brand cutter... it's hard to say..i would settle for no more then 1 inch.. and that's standing at the back of the cutter and pushing it from one side to the other. when you get it filled back up, and raised it like you say ... and let me know how much side to side motion it has, but push it from side to side at the cutter trailing wheel. point.. 

Edited August 26, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[jeepwm69 7,611]

So here’s what I had on the sway plates.

 

so I took one off, and flipping it 90 degrees gets both arms almost on the plates. Any reason I can’t just flip one and leave the other as is?

 

No leaks or evidence of leaks that I can see on the lower hitch points.

 

Refilled it and it only took about 7-8 gallons, and I overfilled it, so obviously some old fluid still in the pump/ lines.

 

First two pics are how it was set up.  Right side on the plate. Left side had a good gap

 

 

[jeepwm69 7,611]

After flipping the left plate only 90 degrees.

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

delete this post please. 

Edited August 27, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

very helpful thank you! 
 

so I took one off, and flipping it 90 degrees gets both arms almost on the plates. Any reason I can’t just flip one and leave the other as is?

 

nope... you can do that.. want hurt a thang but maybe shift the cutter slightly over to one side, but it's better then have it slam back and forth....that's exactly how i have my pops disk mower set up... all the way far as i could get to the right side... three reasons to do this is... the mower misses the right tire tracks...(mashed down wet grass)  and you cover slightly more ground for a cleaner cut.. and money people wish for there hay fields to look like they've been mowed... plus you want to cover as much ground as you can dealing with the amount of fuel use compared to the work your doing... it's a fine line nowa days, but in your case...with a cutter... no abuse to the rock shaft, and no slamming back and forth... which in turn might also help with any back pain you have (if any) 
 

No leaks or evidence of leaks that I can see on the lower hitch points.

 

perfect!
 

Refilled it and it only took about 7-8 gallons, and I overfilled it, so obviously some old fluid still in the pump/ lines.

 

no sir you won't be able to drain every single drop... but if there are no metallic filings in the oil you drained out run with it (and those would come from the brakes being worn out)  which from your details they  work fine, and, you don't use them much (which i agree with) you can do the same with engine braking, (or dragging the cutter on the ground how ever.). if it get to that point toss the pto clutch out of gear... and drop the cutter on the ground. 
 

First two pics are how it was set up.  Right side on the plate. Left side had a good gap

 

my guess would be it's a category 1 with just Normal use... over time the point on the drop arms where they contact sway blocks will ware Away as well.... hitch all that stuff takes abuse over time. but looks as tho that will work just fine... is there any side to side movement at all ?  

[jeepwm69 7,611]

Got some bushhogging done this afternoon.

 

As you warned, pinched the oring on the filter housing so had a nice puddle 2 seconds after starting. Got it resealed and got to work.

 

Realigning the sway plates made a huge difference, and cleaning out the rad allowed me to mow without overheating, although it got up there a couple of times in the thick stuff.

 

Greased everything and blew out the air filters as well and will hopefully not have to use it much more this year so will change the oil before I put it up for the winter and call it good

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

 

Quote

Got some bushhogging done this afternoon.

 

good deal.... i figured that's was why you were Mia. 
 

Quote

As you warned, pinched the oring on the filter housing so had a nice puddle 2 seconds after starting. Got it resealed and got to work.

 

been there many times... your all ready to go... fire it up, and then it leaks those dang hydro filter o-ring are a pain in arse! lol! 
 

Quote

Realigning the sway plates made a huge difference, and cleaning out the rad allowed me to mow without overheating, although it got up there a couple of times in the thick stuff.

 

glad to hear much improvement.... mid range on the temp gauge will not hurt... and these engine were known for running warm...with such a small radiator... later on you might check the thermostat, along with drive belt tension. 
 

Quote

Greased everything and blew out the air filters as well and will hopefully not have to use it much more this year so will change the oil before I put it up for the winter and call it good

 

did you hit the front axle pivot bushing fittings ? i think ? right off the top of my head... that tractor has 17 grease fittings.... possibly more... I'll have to check. 

Edited August 28, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[jeepwm69 7,611]

7 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

 

good deal.... i figured that's was why you were Mia. 
 

 

been there many times... your all ready to go... fire it up, and then it leaks those dang hydro filter o-ring are a pain in arse! lol! 
 

 

glad to hear much improvement.... mid range on the temp gauge will not hurt... and these engine were known for running warm...with such a small radiator... later on you might check the thermostat, along with drive belt tension. 
 

 

did you hit the front axle pivot bushing fittings ? i think ? right off the top of my head... that tractor has 17 grease fittings.... possibly more... I'll have to check. 

 

Still think I’d like to pull the rad, take it to local rad shop and have him clean it out.

 

and yep, hit that pivot fitting. 

 

I looked it over pretty good and think I got them all

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

if your not going to use it much after this .... sure..... it sure wouldnt hurt to have a good flushing out, and fins straightened.... just make sure they know one edge is a hydro oil cooler, and doesn't need a internal flush, just a surface cleaning.. I was a.ways picky about farm equipment .... you might even say OCD ... if any of ours went down that was part of the pay check out of the window... 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

you might also check the water pump while you have the rad out of the way (smooth rotation, no bearing wobble) 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

i do notice something i meant to ask about..... that lever.... just below the left hand side of the seat (pic) my thinking is thats the differential lock on your tractor ? becuase on the 30 series .... there's a peddle ... there, and it releases the diff lock... if there's no tension on the diff, or you don't keep your foot on it... does yours release automatically ? or manually ? 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

also might be a good time to check those hydrualic pump coupler bushings.... yours might be a direct bolt up, when you get time post me some pics. 

[jeepwm69 7,611]

That lever you pointed out is indeed the diff lock.  It works fine and I have to use it occasionally crossing a ditch or when I misjudge how wet the ground is.

 

I’ll have a look at those couplers too. 

 

If we can get a few more dry days I’m going to try mowing those lily pads down, at least around the edge of the dock out where it’s been dry the longest