Let's talk farm equipment

[jeepwm69 7,609]

1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

 

the fuel tank, or radiator ? gosh jeep it's been years sence i had ours off, the tank (i think) just sits on pads, and the hood presses down on it, and the top also has pads, now the radiator, bottom left and right side should be bolts with springs, and a braise rod at the top, you be able to see the rod, by just looking under the edge of the hood, but to inspect it all the way, pull the side screens, take the fuel cap off, radiator cap, if it has a a intake stack, take the weather shield /pre cleaner off, and lift the hood off, you'll most like need help taking the hood off, it's not heavy, just long, but there really is no reason, to do this, just the radiator that might need blowing out every now and again, simple with a air compressor and blow gun, with a short right angle tip, just go in behind the fan, and work your way around, you'll have to rotate the fan, to blow areas the blades block, if the drive belt isn't that tight, just grab a fan blade and rotate it just a tad, you can also blow in from the sides, but what i did , was take a storm door mesh/screen and place it In front anything small enough to pass though it goes right through the radiator fins. 

I just wanted to take Off the nose cone and hood so I can look at the gas tank and radiatorOff the nose cone and hood so I can look at the gas tank and radiator

[bcsman 1,382]

4 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I just wanted to take Off the nose cone and hood so I can look at the gas tank and radiatorOff the nose cone and hood so I can look at the gas tank and radiator

You have a stutter tonight jeep....lol

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

a single 12 volt ? hmm, bet it spose to have two 12 volts i can't recall what it's called but, i can explain it, 1st battery +12 post goes to the second +12 post then to the starter, (well you know that) same with 1st -post goes to the 2nd -post, then ground, but for the life of me i can't recall what that's called, lol.

 

check the space in the battery box, bet there's room for one more, but now ours is a heavy duty 2630 is your front axle swept back (angled) or straight out ? parallel 12 volt batteries is it, my bad on forgetting. 

Edited July 7, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

okay okay, lol just post me some pics to jog my memory. I've got to be sure yours is not a light model, because those, I've never worked on, but being it's a 2640, i don't see how it cou,d be a light duty model, i bet @Mac102004 could advise some to, buts he's also Mia. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

a single 12 volt ? hmm, bet it spose to have two 12 volts i can't recall what it's called but, i can explain it, 1st battery +12 post goes to the second +12 post then to the starter, (well you know that) same with 1st -post goes to the 2nd -post, then ground, but for the life of me i can't recall what that's called, lol.

 

check the space in the battery box, bet there's room for one more, but now ours is a heavy duty 2630 is your front axle swept back (angled) or straight out ? parallel 12 volt batteries is it, my bad on forgetting. 

in series two 12v battery's become 24 volt , in parallel,  ya get twice the current. still 12 volts. it helps if both battery's are of the same build, an strength.

Edited July 7, 2021 by LedFTed

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

i did some looking and yours should have a fiber glass nose cap, maybe even a plastic tank,  but the engine tranny should be the same, but, dont believe it has swept back front axle, didnt you say it had a front loader ? 

[jeepwm69 7,609]

1 hour ago, bcsman said:

You have a stutter tonight jeep....lol

Lol.

Was using talk to text while I was cooking supper

[jeepwm69 7,609]

1 hour ago, _Wilson_™ said:

a single 12 volt ? hmm, bet it spose to have two 12 volts i can't recall what it's called but, i can explain it, 1st battery +12 post goes to the second +12 post then to the starter, (well you know that) same with 1st -post goes to the 2nd -post, then ground, but for the life of me i can't recall what that's called, lol.

 

check the space in the battery box, bet there's room for one more, but now ours is a heavy duty 2630 is your front axle swept back (angled) or straight out ? parallel 12 volt batteries is it, my bad on forgetting. 

 

Battery is on the side of the engine in what looks like an added metal battery box.  Just one though. Haven’t ever had any problem with one batt turning it over

 

 I’ll have to look at the front axle and see if it is straight or swept.

 

No front end loader although I would love to have one

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

hmm, you don't have a small hood just in front of the steering wheel, at the back end of the main hood ? 

 

and no, Ted 12 volts i described are not 24 volts just more cranking amps, your talking running them in series. frame ground neg, of the 1st battery then from the + post of that same battery to - of the 2nd battery, then to then out... to what ever is being powered. left is series, right is parallel, being it is six volt series would make 12 volts, parallel would make higher amp six volt starting system, etc, same with a 12 volt battery, etc. 

Edited July 7, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

Battery is on the side of the engine in what looks like an added metal battery box.  Just one though. Haven’t ever had any problem with one batt turning it over

 

 

hmm strange, doesn't sound stock, BUT, if it works good, run with it. lol! i always hated messing with batteries, my pop was the worlds worst about not getting batteries replaced.... lol, he was always mouth off, ah they cost too much money, we can jump / role them off them off, we need to put the money into the cattle ..... sigh, well i reckon he was right to a point, but those quad rang trannys / power shift tractors can't be rolled off. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

hmm, you don't have a small hood just in front of the steering wheel, at the back end of the main hood ? 

 

and no, Ted 12 volts i described are not 24 volts just more cranking amps, your talking running them in series. frame ground neg, of the 1st battery then from the + post of that same battery to - of the 2nd battery, then to then out... to what ever is being powered. left is series, right is parallel, being it is six volt series would make 12 volts, parallel would make higher amp six volt starting system, etc, same with a 12 volt battery, etc. 

nailed that one Jay., just didnt know ya was working with 6 volt battery's. an i was talking about running in parallel, also...

Edited July 7, 2021 by LedFTed

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

 

2 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

being it is six volt series would make 12 volts, parallel would make higher amp six volt starting system, etc, same with a 12 volt battery, etc.

 

i was talking about the pic, which shows 6 volt batteries, but both work the same in series, or parallel. two 12 volts in series produces 24 volts, in parallel just a higher amp EI bigger stronger 12 volt battery pack, same with two six volts,  two in series produces 12 volt, in parallel a bigger stronger six volt battery pack, one semi we have has six 12 volt batteries in parallel, lol, no idea what the amps they require from the alternator, I'd have to ask @Melatv about that, my guess would be well over 200 amps, because my jeep has just one, 12 volt and the alternator is a high out put 150 amps. 

[jeepwm69 7,609]

Had to go out to the shop this morning.  Had a slow leak on one of the rear tires on that 500 I'm fixing to sell, so took it to the shop, broke it down, cleaned the bead on the tire and the wheel well, greased them both, and then put the tire back on......backwards.

 

Got back to the house, cussed a lot after realizing I'd mounted it backwards, went back out to the shop and redid the whole thing again, and on my 2nd trip, I remembered to take pics of the tractor.

 

Battery box on the side.  As I said, aftermarket/added.  I like it because it makes it very easy to flop a battery on there to use the tractor, and then I take the battery back off when I park it to keep someone from stealing it.  The battery box in the hood is where I keep my loppers for low hanging limbs, and where my empty beer cans go.

 

Yikes, nothing showing on the dipstick.  Am I supposed to run it then check like we do on the Hondas, or is it just that low? 

 

Straight front axle

 

This one was set up for mowing orchards IIRC.  Different fenders and the exhaust runs under the tractor instead of poking up.

 

 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

i won't poke fun at you for the tire mishap (sigh) been there too lol! very helpfull pics! and i like your thinking about removing the battery, because taking them out from the oem battery box is a pita! ha! i used to put my empties in the battery box too, lol, okay for the oil nope nothing like a honda, just add till it's on the upper mark, without screwing the stick back in, just like we check the oil on a honda check stick, do you know where the fill hole is ? yep that's the front heavy axle, and those side screens, just grab them at the top, and pull out then raise them off the two bottom pins in the frame and let them hang down out of the way, you might have to wrestle with them a tad, but don't get too brutal, those are expensive, and hard to come by, and they look like there in really good shape for the age, good looking tracter too! I'll look at the pics really close for more detail, and get back to you, keep um coming now i need pics from below the floor boards on both sides, and check stick is the exact stick it should have, also same transmission from the shifts i see park reverse, 1st 2nd on the left shifter, and the righ 4 positions but 8 gears depending on what gear your in on the left stick. 1st, or 2nd, I'm drawing a blank on how many reverse speeds it has, I'm thinking 4 or maybe high is locked out ? and the pto clutch lever in between them, just a note the pto clutch is a wet clutch, but the main clutch (engine) is a dry clutch on these, i think at least ours is, they might have changed in the smaller 40 series tractors ? because our 4040 4230' and 4440  are wet clutches pto,and engine, just look under the bell housing for a weep hole, it's there to let what little engine oil, or hydraulic that gets past the seals drain out, and not get on the clutch. 

 

Quote

This one was set up for mowing orchards IIRC.  Different fenders and the exhaust runs under the tractor instead of poking up.

 

 

gotcha (thumbs up) 

Edited July 7, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[jeepwm69 7,609]

I'm guessing the "fill hole" is not the dipstick hole then......

 

Have 4 speeds each in high range, low range, and reverse, so 12 speeds total.

 

I've changed the oil and kept the air filters clean, but I would love to change the hydraulic fluid if it isn't too much of a job.  No idea how old the stuff in there is.

 

 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

ah! thank you so it does have 4 reverse speeds, sheesh! i was thinking high R was (high on the left stick and 4th on the right stick ) was locked out, my bad, yep 12 in total, and no sir, not the check plug hole, it would be dang near In possible, and i take your also has the foot throttle on the right front floor board ? ours did, but my pop removed it, and somemguys he working were racing the engine up, and down, anyways she still runs like a deere, no telling how may hours she has, but it's got an easy life now just pulls a ten foot bush hog 1008 johndeere, and unloads round bails, the others are too big and a 1000 pto. but yours will run a 1000 rpm pto, here in the pic  you can see the black filler cap partly blocked by the top-link ? that's where you put the hydraulic oil in, in the other pic, it's the green cap  now yours might have two hydraulic outlets like the left does, ours only had one set like the right pic, so adding a front end loader, wasn't easy, it now has six outlets two sets on the right front side, and the standard one set in the back, now as for changing the hydro oil, well..... we change ours every couple years, it's not exactly like motor, but more like auto transmission oil, which most people don't change, often, HECK some never do, lol, I don't agree with that but it is what it is. but now the hyro filter on the tractor ?? every time the the engine oil / filter was changed i also checked the sump screen, the biggest issue with changing that oil, is the @&&$(;: o-ring that goes up in the filter housing, lol, when you take the filter housing off, use a new o-ring, and take some grease, and smear it on the o-ring to hold it in place on the housing, when you go to put the filter and filter housing back on, you'll know if you've pinched the o-ring soon as you fire her up, you won't loose much, but she will leek, and changing that oil is a messy job, lol, i would like fishes thoughts on when how often hydraulic oil should be changed, be sure to post me those left and right sides, belly pics BEFORE you change the oil, i just need to see if yours, and ours  match up, the sump screen port maybe in a defrent place, and the filter housing might also be.the tire pic is the sump pre screen. 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

pardon me, jeep, i get kind of scatter brained when i start talking about farm equipment, lol, as for checking the hydro oil, leave the tractor off, hot, or cold makes mo defrence, also, the brakes are wet brakes, but i wouldn't use them much, I've replaced ours once, and thats a finger mashing job! and yours also should have a dif lock, have anymore questions let me know. 

Edited July 8, 2021 by _Wilson_™

[jeepwm69 7,609]

Do have a foot throttle, as well as a diff lock.  I don't use the brakes much.  99% of the time this one is run with a 4 foot bush hog keeping the "fire lanes" mowed on our CRP ground.

 

I have a small disc for it that I intended to use for food plots, but haven't used it in years.  Would like to get a small planter, a blade, and a front end loader for it, but dangit those things are pricey!

 

I figured out I would have been better off buying a tractor with a front end loader already installed.  A loader on it's own is pricey new or used, and when you buy the two pieces separately they cost a LOT more than the same tractor with a loader already on it.

 

I'll wait to see what @Fishfiles says about the hydraulic fluid.  Since I don't know the history, and it's low, seems like a fluid change is a no brainer.   I lucked into two 5 gal jugs of fluid on clearance at Walmart for $7 each a couple of years ago, so I'm set for fluid.

 

In true old man fashion, Dad bought his 750 new in 1983.  I think it has about 400 hours on it now.  The John Deere dealership tried to buy it back from him for years because their cost went way up on those little tractors and they knew he didn't use it much.  LOL

 

His doesn't have any hook ups on it, so need to add some to it.  I THINK the 2640 only has two, but I'll have to look at see.  Obviously with only a bush hog and a disc I haven't used the hook ups any at all on it.

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

thanks good info! is the disk 3 point hitch, (because you mentioned never using the hydraulic hook ups)  your saying it has 1 set of outlets 1 set would have two plugs 2 sets would have four one set would be on the right hand side, and the other on the be on the  hand side, i would pass on the blade, and get a box blade with adjustable spikes if that what your talking about a box blade with adjustable spikes will do better at fixing driveway road, etc, but won't adjust to angle the dirt like a blade on a road grader will do, i agree, those loaders aren't cheep, but sure are handy! you can grade with them just like a blade will, just takes a tad more time, with all the maneuvering, we have a blade for that 4000 ford, i hate grading with it because you always have to add weight to make it bite, but a spike tooth box blade will bite in every time, as long as you have the top link adjusted right. 

 

yeah, i would Waite see what @Fishfiles advises , i don't think anyone here has near the experience on hydraulic type (among other types) equipment as he does, ha! yeah I'd say your set with plenty of oil. 

 

ill look,at your pics again, short way to know, is, if it has 3 levers (3 point hitch, and the two would be for the double set of hydraulic outlets )  if it has just 2 levers then one is for  the 3 point hitch and the other is for the outlets, which would be plenty, IMO, a loader when you get one can be powered same as ours. still keeping that one set of outlets free, for use up hydraulic raised and lowered  implements, as for planters..... i couldn't advise, but i take it your planting in worked up soil ? 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

I seen a lot of different ways to fill the tractors hydraulic systems , best to research your model , some of the older models have a petcock that you open and fill it from the top of the transaxle under the seat  till it comes out that petcock -----   some have a dip stick and you fill it from a cap on the rear of the tractor between the three point hitch arms and check the level from a dip stick , these use the same oil in the transaxle / transmission and the hydraulic systems  --   some have a open cavity where the transmission  would be , would guess you'd call that a dry clutch  and there should be no oil in that cavity , and if the drain hole is plugged up in the bottom of that cavity then  the oil will collect in there , those usually have a cooter key in the plug so oil can drip out , if it leaks from there the seal is bad --- I know Deere like Hy-Gard Fluid in the hydraulics , called HG Fluid , you can substitute HG Fluid for Tractor Transmission and Hydraulic Fluid ---  have seen a secondary hydraulic filter on them that looks like a air conditioner filter , have seen them hidden in side of the final drive , under a big fitting that also acts as the supply hose fitting 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

Purdy much nailed it ^^^^^ thank you fish, i was trying to think of the name of the johndeere brand oil

 

28 minutes ago, Fishfiles said:

have seen a secondary hydraulic filter on them that looks like a air conditioner filter

 

 are you talking about the per clean sump filter ? cause that's what ours has just a round small corse mesh filter, that most times has weed seeds collected in it. 

[jeepwm69 7,609]

Yuck.

 

I'll try to get some pics of the underside this weekend. 

[Fishfiles 20,145]

3 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

Purdy much nailed it ^^^^^ thank you fish, i was trying to think of the name of the johndeere brand oil

 

 

 are you talking about the per clean sump filter ? cause that's what ours has just a round small corse mesh filter, that most times has weed seeds collected in it. 

Wow , look  how nasty that is !!! 

[_Wilson_™ 6,567]

we had that tractor brand new when i was a little boy, way back when, they never even knew about that sump filter, till i started doing our farm equipment wrenching, the operators manual never showed it, but the johndeere bible (big book) shows everything, i don't know how many years went by before i checked it, but yep, it was just as nasty as that one in the pic, bunch of weed (hay seeds) not so much  black gummy mess, i can tell you how that mess gets in, it collects ( sticks ) to the little bit of oil residue inside the hydraulic couples, no one ever used those rubber coupler covers, and they get brittle and break down over time, i just started use compressed air, to blow them out before plugging a hydraulic hose in, sometimes, you just dont remember the small details when you get in a hurry, or have way too many forks on your plate, lol. 

[LedFTed 1,127]

On 7/6/2021 at 7:13 PM, LedFTed said:

i think it was. the intake exhaust manifold, if one piece. 4 exhaust ports an two intake ports. it was pitted to the point that in didnt put enough pressure on the gaskets. anyway, i took it to a local shop,  it was 60 dollars the get it shaved. its been awhile. is that a fair price. i knew is was going to be over 20. a lot of time has passed.

my good luck, the machine that shaves head an manifolds broke down. the guy was waiting on parts, after a week i canceled. so i get the exhaust/intake manifold back. by that time i had already figured, instead of shaving the manifold, fill the holes. my welding skills, being lacking, i broke out the JB WELD an started plugging the holes. the long metal file was taking forever. after drying. so after hand filling twice, i finally broke out the mac side air grinder. went to work, then, just in case, put 3/16 of orange copper, permatex. that solved the problem. now, just to add the flow-master muffler. (sounded great on the 2300cc, 85 ranger). 😀