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if you would / can post a pic of both the tank, and the underside of the cap, if there's a vent In the tank it should be at the highest point, which i would think would be real close to the filler neck. 

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19 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

if you would / can post a pic of both the tank, and the underside of the cap, if there's a vent In the tank it should be at the highest point, which i would think would be real close to the filler neck. 

Jay, if i can i will;;..

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okay thanks, don't get me wrong, some do have vents but as a genral rule it's always from the highest point of the tank ..... take a johndeere 6620 combine the vent tube (#12)  is up higher then filler . so when you get on a slope the over flow has a place to get out, at least that's how the old ones were, nowa days i doubt they have one because fuel would drain on the ground, now this design  i agree with, but the small amout of fuel /  gas fumes that would come out ?  nah those dont do any harm at all... a greeny would disagree of corse.... lol! 

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Edited by _Wilson_™

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On 7/22/2021 at 9:28 AM, Fishfiles said:

Good deal , amazing how they just kept going into the water bottle no stop ----  so then what you do with a bottle full of 75+  rats ?  ----  Fill the bottle full of water , would take care of the problem , but no too humane  

rats are infectious. nasty. hate to say, i would have no problem, filling the jug up with water, an putting the lid on.. only if they made bait, for fishing, would i reconsider..

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You'll never see a Can-Am go this far , hard to kill a 300 

 

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3 hours ago, _Wilson_™ said:

@jeepwm69 any update on how the 2640 is working ? i hope no more pto slipping on hill side mowing. 

 

I need to get it out and do some mowing soon.  Have been in South Carolina at the beach for the last week, so just not getting settled back in here.

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On 8/3/2021 at 9:50 AM, jeepwm69 said:

 

I need to get it out and do some mowing soon.  Have been in South Carolina at the beach for the last week, so just not getting settled back in here.

Myrtle beach? hope thats spelled right.

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11 hours ago, LedFTed said:

Myrtle beach? hope thats spelled right.

 

No we've been going to a place just south of Charleston.  Seabrook Island.  Really liked it the first couple of years we went, but it's gotten popular and thus is getting more crowded, so think we might go further north next year.

 

My family went to Pawley's Island from the 20's until my kids came along.  It's about 30 miles south of Myrtle.  My great grandfather would haul the whole family out there (about a 3 day drive at that time) and attend some sort of cotton broker's convention, and they'd spend most of the summer at "The Rice Cottages" at Pawley's Island.  Basically little huts run by a nice couple.  My grandparents took mom and her brother to the same place, and my parent's took me and my sister there growing up.

 

Then Hurricane Hugo wiped out all the old shacks on Pawleys and they stacked 3-4 luxury houses where one shack used to be, so we moved on.  Changed the whole atmosphere of the place and took the charm out of it.

 

Interesting story, my great grandfather almost bought "Litchfield by the Sea" back in the day.  My great grandmother stopped him and told him he would be a fool to buy land that couldn't be farmed. 😭

 

She also told him he could only have one drink a day, so his usual was a quart jar full of gin and orange juice.  LOL

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got a sister that moved to South Carolina. near that same area. i was down that way once or so, an the girls talk real nice. i were young then, thay all talked nice, just i liked the accent of southern girls better. 🙂

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On 7/7/2021 at 5:28 PM, _Wilson_™ said:

ah! thank you so it does have 4 reverse speeds, sheesh! i was thinking high R was (high on the left stick and 4th on the right stick ) was locked out, my bad, yep 12 in total, and no sir, not the check plug hole, it would be dang near In possible, and i take your also has the foot throttle on the right front floor board ? ours did, but my pop removed it, and somemguys he working were racing the engine up, and down, anyways she still runs like a deere, no telling how may hours she has, but it's got an easy life now just pulls a ten foot bush hog 1008 johndeere, and unloads round bails, the others are too big and a 1000 pto. but yours will run a 1000 rpm pto, here in the pic  you can see the black filler cap partly blocked by the top-link ? that's where you put the hydraulic oil in, in the other pic, it's the green cap  now yours might have two hydraulic outlets like the left does, ours only had one set like the right pic, so adding a front end loader, wasn't easy, it now has six outlets two sets on the right front side, and the standard one set in the back, now as for changing the hydro oil, well..... we change ours every couple years, it's not exactly like motor, but more like auto transmission oil, which most people don't change, often, HECK some never do, lol, I don't agree with that but it is what it is. but now the hyro filter on the tractor ?? every time the the engine oil / filter was changed i also checked the sump screen, the biggest issue with changing that oil, is the @&&$(;: o-ring that goes up in the filter housing, lol, when you take the filter housing off, use a new o-ring, and take some grease, and smear it on the o-ring to hold it in place on the housing, when you go to put the filter and filter housing back on, you'll know if you've pinched the o-ring soon as you fire her up, you won't loose much, but she will leek, and changing that oil is a messy job, lol, i would like fishes thoughts on when how often hydraulic oil should be changed, be sure to post me those left and right sides, belly pics BEFORE you change the oil, i just need to see if yours, and ours  match up, the sump screen port maybe in a defrent place, and the filter housing might also be.the tire pic is the sump pre screen. 

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 Went out to do some bush hogging this afternoon, and I actually ended up mowing a lot more than I planned on. Right at the end I was in some tall Johnson grass and the tractor overheated (murphy switch).

 

Sat there waiting on it to cool off, and when I started going again, I noticed backing up the bush cut out a couple of times. 

 

 I got done what I needed to do today, but I think I’m going to change the fluid before I use the tractor again

 

I took pics of the underside of the tractor on what I thought might be the filter, but looking .at your picture I think I took a picture of the wrong thing.

 

is it the 2nd pic with the hex head recess?

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Sat there waiting on it to cool off, and when I started going again, I noticed backing up the bush cut out a couple of times.

 

you might check the air filter, and sounds like it could be low of coolant, or a somewhat plugged radiator, these model were bad about this because in tall brush etc... tend to suck that mess right in past the side screens, what i did was put storm door mesh in front of the radiator... never had an over heating issue sence then. 

 

I got done what I needed to do today, but I think I’m going to change the fluid before I use the tractor again.

 

 

if the fluid is clear (depending on what brand some brands are dyed) i would go with a filter  change 1st / sump screen cleaning. 

 

I took pics of the underside of the tractor on what I thought might be the filter, but looking .at your picture I think I took a picture of the wrong thing.

 

 

no sir, that's the filter housing... (first pic I'm posting here in my response.)

 

is it the 2nd pic with the hex head recess?

 

 

yes that's the sump screen, but as i said before I'd like to see the other side, (before you twist that hex) same area (2nd pic I'll post) my thinking is the sump screen and filter might be all that needs changing, now the sump screen you just clean, the filter, you change, when you change the filter... that o-ring is a pita to get right... i always stuck those in the shop freezer, or coated them with grease. 

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7 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

I noticed backing up the bush cut out a couple of times. 

 

i didn't want to miss this part, but were you on level ground, or backing up hill, or have the tractor at a tilt ? it still sounds like it's low of hydraulic fluid, i also need to mention, when you check the fluid, the ram (lift arms / 3 point hitch ) should be lowered all the way, and a couple other things, you check that oil like you would on a any screw in check stick, stick it in, pull it back out, but don't screw it in to check the fluid, and a sure sign the fluid is low is the hydraulic steering will stop working at times (on hill, or grades) 

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7 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

 

 Went out to do some bush hogging this afternoon, and I actually ended up mowing a lot more than I planned on. Right at the end I was in some tall Johnson grass and the tractor overheated (murphy switch).

 

Sat there waiting on it to cool off, and when I started going again, I noticed backing up the bush cut out a couple of times. 

 

 I got done what I needed to do today, but I think I’m going to change the fluid before I use the tractor again

 

I took pics of the underside of the tractor on what I thought might be the filter, but looking .at your picture I think I took a picture of the wrong thing.

 

is it the 2nd pic with the hex head recess?

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What I see as being the most common cause of over heating in equipment is blockage of the cooler/radiator , mainly between the cooler and the radiator , can you see down in between the two --- some you can't see in there with out some disassembling 

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the oil cooler is on the right hand side of the radiator....(from the operators seat) a single layer combo... although a completely separate radioator, and hydro oil cooler would have been a better design.... the reason might be. that cab tractors have three, 1st is a/c condenser the hydro cooler, then radiator... none cab model have the same basic design as the 2630 etc etc 

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On a cooler /radiator set up like in the pic ^^^  I would look to the bottom edge of the cooler and radiator for being clogged up , where the plastic fan shroud meets the metal , see them get all packed up in there 

 

 

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one would think so.... lol, but actually it's the center of the radiator, because the volume of air is so low. because the of fan design... why they didnt design the fan blades longer, is beyond me..... longer blades would have solved that issue, why they chose shorter blades, i have no clue, it would make prefect since if they were fluid coupling (clutch fans) but those older models are all direct drive fans... fliud coupling drive fans didn't come out till i believe the 50 series ? tractors on JD farm tractors ... . i couldn't say about the construction models. now if his was over heating and pushing coolant out, and without a long over flow line it would be sucked right into the radiator and ... well.... dust and coolant makes a thick pasty mud, that drys into a hardened mess. 

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2 minutes ago, _Wilson_™ said:

one would think so.... lol, but actually it's the center of the radiator, because the volume of air is so low. because the of fan design...

 

 

It is actually like the radiator shroud is a catch all and fills up with grass and mud and even an occasional  rat nest every now and then , you know I seen them rats will chew the fins of the coils , maybe they get   hungry ,  nervous or  cold 

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yeah... they sure will... had one eat the top radiator hose of our 2630 in one night..... 1st time i ever saw that happen... we had used that tractor the previous day, i went to start it and anti freeze started blowing from the air volume of the fan, i shut the thing off, and low and behold the hose was chewed all the way to the hose clamps on both the inflow and out flow ends, and long gone!  he looked and said.. someone stole the hose, i said no.... lol, look at the chew marks, and both clamps were still there.. he laughed and said he had seen some odd things, but never a radiator hose stolen by a rodent... lol! my guess was the sugar in the coolant ... other then that i wouldn't know ...... just plain crazy! 

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At least that rat likely got a good dose anti-freeze  ,  was it the green stuff ---   they say the new stuff is not harmful to animals , but it comes in so many colors now days , who knows which ones are not harmful , they got  red , orange , yellow , blue , purple , green 

 

 

We lost a pit bull to the green stuff .... she destroyed  two gallon jugs of it , she was dead  8 hours after arriving at the vet , vet said the cure might kill her , cost $800 to find out it did 

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When it cut out in reverse I was on pretty flat ground. It did cut out once on a hill, but I tried to stay off the hills yesterday since I hadn’t addressed the fluid issue when I started mowing. 

 

I’d only planned on mowing a small lot, but wife texted me and said to mow as long as I wanted so I took advantage,

 

I can’t see up in the radiator area very well. That’s why I mentioned taking the hood off in a prior post. I’d like to clean it out really well and check it over.

 

It doesn’t run hot unless I’m mowing in thick stuff for a long time on a very hot day.

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Luckily I got 2 5 gallon buckets of hydraulic fluid on clearance at Walmart for seven dollars apiece a couple years ago and it looks like this tractor takes 10 gallons.

 

 I’ll need to get a filter, but I’ll plan on replacing the filter, cleaning the screen, and putting new fluid in there. I have no idea how old the stuff that’s in there is so at least if I replace it I’ll know what’s in there and how old it is. 

 

Is there anything in particular I need to do to bleed air out or purge the system? I imagine air in a hydraulic system could cause lots of issues

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4 hours ago, jeepwm69 said:

Luckily I got 2 5 gallon buckets of hydraulic fluid on clearance at Walmart for seven dollars apiece a couple years ago and it looks like this tractor takes 10 gallons.

 

 I’ll need to get a filter, but I’ll plan on replacing the filter, cleaning the screen, and putting new fluid in there. I have no idea how old the stuff that’s in there is so at least if I replace it I’ll know what’s in there and how old it is. 

 

Is there anything in particular I need to do to bleed air out or purge the system? I imagine air in a hydraulic system could cause lots of issues

The best oil in my eyes for your tractor is HGFluid ( High Guard Fluid ) also called Tractor transmission and hydraulic fluid , it is a thick hydraulic fluid, 68 weight --------   Tractor Supply has it for $25 per 5 gallons  -----  but I see people put the cheapest 10w hydraulic oil and they keep running 

 

I don't know your model if it has any tricks to bleeding it , It should bleed itself ---  I doubt you are going to  get all the oil  all out anyways --------   if it is noisy on crank up , kill it,   fill it again to full , and  then let it settle for a while for the air bubbles to settle out  

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1 hour ago, Fishfiles said:

The best oil in my eyes for your tractor is HGFluid ( High Guard Fluid ) also called Tractor transmission and hydraulic fluid ...

 

Why would you have oil in your eyes?

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