toodeep

Yep. they use arctic cat brake pads so the calipers should be the same (or close enough). Just do a search online and compare the picture to what you have. Most likely you'll find a set for around $30.

When your manually shifting it, when you push or pull the lever the internal spring should try to put the shaft back into the neutral state. With the shift reductions gears installed it will give drag on that, the reason I said to do it when they was out. If it "springs" back, that pin will be good. If it doesn't, you found a problem and time to tear into it.

I haven't tried them yet or read any reviews but you can get aftermarket seats for around $55. If your foam is in good shape and you have a good, heavy duty stapler you can get fitted covers for around $20-$30.

The followers (lifters) will show more wear (if any) than the camshaft. Are the head bolts tight, seem stripped, rounded heads. If your that far there should only be 4 bolts, 6mm thread with 8mm head for socket. If the heads are rounded it might be a pain to get them broke loose with the motor in the frame.

If your in the states this should help but you'll have to fill in the blanks. 1HFTE359 *74000001 - 74099999 IS THE VIN matrix for the 2007 TRX420FM. The * is a check number so it can be anything and the 740 on is going to make your VIN unique.

Did you make sure the shift shaft will return by itself with the shift reduction gears removed? There is a stop pin inside the motor that can break and that will tell us if it has or not.

It is trying to shift but won't go into a gear (rocking the machine back and forth) or won't shift at all? If not at all I would start with removing the shift motor cover so you can watch the gears when trying to shift. If you get to that point you can also remove the gears and make sure the shift shaft to returns to the neutral position by its self (important that it does) when trying to shift it.

It cut off before it went through the check phase and then repeat the code (same or different). If it continually repeats the 4 flashes with no long pause (check) I have no idea and shifting it manually should bring up a code. It will be a worthless code (self inflicted) but a code. If it is stuck between gears (I've had it happen a few times) that might be all it takes to get it going again.

Does it have a long pause at the end with a -- and then the 4 flashes again? Have you shifted it manually to make sure it's in neutral and not stuck between 2 gears?

Cam was my first thought after the carb checked out. 140 is a high number since they have and auto decompression. A common thing is the bearing holder on the rear of the camshaft will go bad and letthe cam move around. That changes valve clearances and usally just makes it a dog when trying to ride it (1/2 throttle is all i has). Worn cam lobes will also do about the same. If you pull the very top cover off you can pull the lifters and see the cam (that will let you know if the lobes are wearing down). If those look good loosen the camchain adjuster and see if you can move the cam with a small screwdriver.

We never created a specific section for ATC. If there is a demand for that it can be done though. The main part of the machine looks like a atc 185 or 200, the first part of the VIN would say for sure which one. Fuel tank is from a 1977 ATC90.

They (Honda) had an update on those CDI back in the day for this reason. Just replace it and you'll be good to go.

Sounds like the cam chain to me. You can move the adjuster and see if the rattle changes to confirm.

I guess i have only used OEM gaskets so that may be the issue.

I find this to be a weird problem, I have never had a problem. I just drop them in place and let the gasket hold them in position. I've done a lot of them over the years and that's why I find it to be a weird problem.