shadetree

yeah..i got my 17mm from sears store back when they were around.

ooochh !..lol.

any word on the where abouts of your bearing and plugs ?.

found this --> https://www.autozone.com/screwdrivers/driver-bit/duralast-1-2in-drive-17mm-hex-bit-socket/754706_0_0?cmpid=PLA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:TLS:71700000043798748 . and this --> https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/CHQHKS17M?cid=paidsearch_shopping_dcoe_google&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI04-qhJ2t6wIV3__jBx2KJAQjEAQYASABEgIAZ_D_BwE .

harbor freight sells the 17mm alllen wrench..or used too ?. nope...even if you get the lock nut off ?, you still have to have a 17mm allen wrench to remove the swing arm bolt.

just noticed those rims are not oem as well !, look like rincon rims ?.

it would be very wise to remove everything, check all the bearings for any odd play ?, replace any oil seals that you can still get while the cases are split. you do not have to pull the tranny all apart, but you will need to remove it from the cases, so you can wash out the cases real good, inspect the oil pump, flush it all out. take lots of before tear down pics as you tear it down, in case ya do not have a service manual ? ( which you really should have on hand ! ). fresh, wet clutch approved engine oil when you get it back together. parts list : complete engine gasket kit, complete engine oil seal kit, a D.I.D. cam chain is a must have !. tube of yamabond for the rocker box, spark plug, engine oil ( wet clutch approved ! ), air filter. may even want to toss in new front and rear sprockets, as well as a o-ring chain. brake pads front and back, fresh brake fluid. in case ya missed it here ?, i do a complete rebuild..i do not do stuff half way..its a waste of my time, i do it right the first time, or i wont do it. try to stick with oem parts from honda unless you can not buy oem from honda ?. no excuse for china parts !!.

i think you are making a huge mistake not splitting the cases , and not going through it, cleaning it all out ?, but hey..it belongs to you..do as you wish..just dont come back on here asking whats this loud noise i am hearing from the bottom of engine ?!..my golden rule : if i dig into a motor at all ?, i go all in..or i dont go at all !.

once you drop the swing arm, you may as well replace the swing arm bearings seeing how now is the time to do it !.

your axle is shot, i'll bet the ring gear splines are bad ?, pinion bearings are prob bad ?. you do not need a spec wrench to drop swing arm, all you need is a 17mm allen wrench, and a cheater pipe.

looks good..cept those stupid led lights on the front ?!..lol.

----> https://www.partzilla.com/catalog/honda/atv/1998/trx450s-a-fourtrax-forman-s/fuel-tank . you can clearly see where it goes around the down tubes, then push pins on each side of the heat shield.

pull the axle out before you do anything else.

right nut does not HAVE to come off ?, but it makes it easier to tear down to remove the rear brakes backing plate, axle comes out the right rear side once the backing plate is off. dont forget to remove the rear brake cables. you should have left the diff together, as it would unbolt as a complete unit from the swing arm after you got the axle out.

i use D&B electrical alot, never got a loud starter from them ?, maybe you should see if one of the transfer gears has a bad tooth ?, maybe a bad one-way bearing ?. other than this..i've had great luck with their starters in the past.

he just wants to stir the pot..lol. try adjusting the cable with it on the ground..see what happens.

i guess you have not installed new brake cables lately huh ?..oh thats right...ya'll don't have brakes down yunder...just tress !..lol.

this mean the check is in the mail ?..lol.

you could have said something already about removing the ring !..lol..details..details !!..lol. as for why it changed when in air ?, simple..cable was stretched when in air, when you put it on ground, cable retracted a tad.

my money say's the drum is worn down beyond service limit. when you go to install new brake shoes, and the drum will not slide over the shoes ?, most times you have to do two things here, grind down/remove some off the brake drum steel ring in order for the drum to clear the new shoes. once you do this, if the drum is worn so far down that the shoes wont reach the lining of the worn drum ?, you can either wrap some tin around the brake cam to push the shoes out further ?, or..cock the cam back further to make up for the distance. they do sell over size brake shoes , but i do not know where you get them ?. dealing with brakes is one of my best skills, have done a ton of them.

your welcome, please keep this thread updated on what you find !.

thank you for the info. before you go buying parts for it ?, i would pull the transfer gear cover, and inspect the gears, bearings, and shift shaft right there, this could be more trouble than a bad angle sensor ?. these models are prone to doing damage behind the cover, DO NOT PULL THE SHIFT MOTOR APART WHILE TRYING TO GET THE COVER OFF !. it is a tight fit at the front, you will need to twist, turn, pull, all the above to get the shift motor out of the way because the frame makes it hard to have enough room to remove the motor.

is this a trx250te ?, or trx250tm ?, when posting , please post the full year, make, model.

gonna say this pic is photo shopped ?, notice the rear bumper is a different color red than the rest of the truck ?!.

welcome to the forums darrell.