shadetree

just got off the phone with my bud, the 400 i was thinking of does not have a muffler on it, sorry.

will do. if the end cap is just dented in ?, easy fix, cut it off just in front of the weld seam, hammer the dent back out, weld it back on, done a many of mufflers like this.

it's gonna cost you more in shipping, than what the muffler will cost..lol. trying to get ahold of my bud, he has a trx400fm frame, checking to see if it has the muffler on it ?, will let ya know when i find out. did you check with power sports nation yet ?.

yikes !.

not mine, i just fixed it, well..the best i could seeing how the owner is a cheap s.o.b. , lol. top end, new starter, new battery, rear brakes back together, front brakes work, he's asking $ 1,500.00 as is, cash only. no, i will not ship !. pick up on your dime..lol.

ya know...if all you over weight folks would go on a diet ?, you would not need better shocks ?!..lol.

of course..the most high dollar part there is..lol ( unless you buy used anyway )..lol.

advice is free...parts are not !..lol. first off, complete engine gasket kit. tube of yamabond ( for where there is no gaskets ONLY ! ). all engine oil seals, D.I.D. cam chain is what i install in all my builds. 3 qrts of atv oil, oil filter, spark plug. air filter. only spec tools you will need: valve spring compressor ( if you do not have one ? ). flywheel puller, centrifugal clutch puller tool. a seal puller ( but not really needed, but works easier than prying seals out with a screwdriver ). service manual for sure !!. have your camera ( cell phone ) on hand to take lots and lots of tear down pics, before, during, after. this way, if you get stumped?, you can always go back, look at pics to see where that thrust washer goes ?..lol. if it were me ? ( i know its not..lol )..i would replace the main crank bearings while you have it torn down, yes..its extra money, but i would do this now, and be worry free for a few more yrs !. a good metric socket set, brass hammer, pry bars, air compressor, air impact gun ( 1/2 ), deep impact sockets, you will need 27mm, 24mm, 22mm, here and there. you can never have enough impact sockets !. some cases, you will need a 30mm, 29mm, 28mm. these come in handy for the hub nuts. not needed, but handy..A PARTS WASHER !. this comes in very handy to rinse out the cases once you get it all part, yes..i go that extra mile when i build my engines. if you get stumped ?, we are always here to help !, myself..i also do phone support..lol.

you do know...they also sell a centrifugal clutch puller tool...right ?..lol. i use a large bolt, fine threads to pull my flywheels, then i use the correct clutch puller tool. some are larger than others.

lol...2001 trx350 rancher..not sure if its manual shift or es though ?..but deff a '01 350 rancher.

yeah..hard pass.

a pic is worth a thousand words, post a pic, then we can tell you what you have.

yes, oil seal right there on front cover where the final shaft comes through. you do not have to pull the engine to replace this seal ?..but..you do have to pull engine, split it, in order to replace the final shaft.

glad ya got it solved !. most atv's here in tthe states are made lean from the factory, we can thank the epa for this..lol.

little tip: the trx400fm and the early trx450S ( '98-'01 trx450S ) , both use the same front differentials.

solution ?..yeah...but it back to all stock ?..lol. i don't mess with all that fancy crap, all it does is give you trouble !, ( as you are finding out ). there is not one thing that is going to make a utility atv go faster, not even all those after market parts you put on it. other than this info ?, i have no idea ?, as said..i do not waste my time with after market gimics.

yes, the sensor where you adjusted the connection, that is where the speed sensor is. as stated, be sure to check the pinion collar splines for being stripped ?.

front final shaft is shot, time to replace. may as well open up the front diff, have a look at the ring gear, and all the bearings. keep in mind, you should replace all 3 oil seals while you are rebuilding it. word of caution !, the final shaft, in order to replace it ?, the engine has to come out, engine split in order to replace the final shaft. replace that oil seal right there in the front cover also.

welcome...what...you don't like the million mile marker ?..rofl. yes..honda came out with some kinda gadget, never seen it or used it ?..that kills the power to the meter...as the meter drains the battery. i'm not sure how it does it with the key off ?..but it does do it.

won't hurt to check the gas cap ?!..lol...lots of folks leave the knob on top of the gas cap in the off position. if its off ?..fuel won't vent to the carb. if ya get the old oem carb back ?, pull the top off (4 screws ) check the rubber piece under it for any holes/tears ?. if ya can get it to idle ?, take a can of propane ( DO NOT LIGHT IT ! )..just get some gas around the intake boot...if it idles up when you do this ?..you have a cracked, or not sealing intake boot. dirty air filter ?, clogged oem snorkel ?.

haha..you know where i live, bring the cylinders and pistons you bought for them, and that over size you said you were gonna get for that trx500fm..and i can do them while you wait, oh...and bring lots of cash !..rofl.

yeah..remove the air box and carb, will make it tons easier to get the stator cover off. hopefully you removed the pull starter cage ?..lol. MAKE SURE YOU GOT EVERY BOLT OUT BEFORE YOU GO TAPPING ON THAT COVER TO REMOVE IT !..check it a millon times if ya have too ??!!. there is always a hidden bolt hiding..lol.

there is also a one-way bearing behind the centrifugal clutch, so you have one in front, and one in the back behind the flywheel. most times engine braking is controlled by the centrifugal clutch one-way bearing. i do not know if they still sell heads for your make/model ?, you can look it up on rmatv, or check power sports nation for a used head ?, they stand behind used parts.

if its making a rattle noise when engine braking ?, this tells me one of the one-way bearings may be bad ?..they wear out over time. as for the bad valve guide ?, you can not tell if its bad just by looking at it ?..it does not show !. i ran across this yrs ago with a trx350 rancher, early model. they left the factory with defective heads is why. the valve guides would be tight on a cold engine, but once started, ran for a few min's..i could blip the throttle, and hear a rattle noise. finding another head was the only fix..no machine shop can solve this..as the head is made for a press fit for the valve guides.

trust me, you will not get into it, without destroying it..lol. they are filled with an epoxy resin, and this resin is not very kind...lol.